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Hugh Many thanks for that. I will try that tonight. I remember that Alan was buying one of the same relay boards - would there be an easy way to see if it's behaviour is similar to mine without it being attached to a Velleman board etc.? Have you any thoughts on reasons for the Hall Effect Switch problem? I know your preference was for a photo sensor. I had a look at the information on the EE-SX3009-P1 sensor and the EE-SX4009-P1 which seems to be basically the same. In the specifications it suggests input of 10V and output of 20V. I thought from your posting last month that you run yours on 5V. If it does need 10V could it operate on 12V? In my implementation I would see it replacing the Hall Effect Switch, attached by a bracket onto the box housing the encoder. If I understand how it functions correctly I could fix an L-bracket to the dome wall so that one leg of the 'L' would pass through the gap in the sensor when the dome, with the sensor fitted to it, rotated past the home position. I see that it has 3 wires so would they just go to the same connections as the Hall Switch? Thanks, Peter

Hugh I've done that testing now. On the VM110 the demo program seemed to indicate that it is OK. I measured the voltages. All The Digital inputs read 1.7V dropping to zero when selected. The Digital outputs read 0.82 to 0.86V dropping to 0.6V when selected. The Analog inputs (as I wrote above) were at 4.92V. The clamp voltage was 0.79V rising to 0.9 when the digital outputs were on. To test the relays I did have to make one other connection and that was from the DC- on the relay board to Ground on the VM110. I did not at first but the motor wouldn't run in any combination until I did. These are the results with ground connected. DO1 DO1 DO1 DO1 INACTIVE ACTIVE INACTIVE ACTIVE DO2 DO2 DO2 DO2 INACTIVE ACTIVE ACTIVE INACTIVE COM1 0 12.2 0 12.21 NO1 0 12.2 0 12.21 NC1 0 0 0 0 COM2 0 0 0 0 NO2 0 0 0 0 NC2 0 12.2 0 12.21 COM3 0 0 0 0 NO3 0 0 0 0 NC3 0 0 0 0 COM4 12.25 12.21 12.37 12.21 NO4 0 12.21 0 12.21 NC4 12.25 0 12.37 0  As before the motor runs with Output 1 on or with Outputs 1 and 2 on, but always in the same direction. I wondered whether the issue might Relay 2 so I switched to the spare Relay 3 but that made no difference. I didn't proceed any further. Thanks, Peter

Alan Thanks for the huge amount of detail there. On the encoder, given that in the Velleman Demo program I did get a count from it do I need to do anything, or just use it as is (other than potentially using a different 5V source)? On 5V supply, when doing the testing of the VM110 suggested by Hugh the two Analog Inputs registered 4.92V; might that be enough? I just suggest it as the connection would be easy. On the Hall Effect switch, if it is not going to play when connected to the circuit I could dump it and go instead for a Reed Switch or the Optical switch suggested by Hugh last month (still on my Ebay watch list). Life would be easier of course if I could use it as the hardware for that is ready to go. And the fact that it does work when operating on its own suggests it does have the capability of measuring the approach of a magnet (by the LED illuminating - I don't know the voltages). Thanks, Peter

Alan, My reply written before reading your newest. The Hall Effect Switch did not work with or without the 10Kohm resistor when the black wire is connected to Dig. Input 2, it only worked with the resistor when the black wire was disconnected. Rather than get involved with more soldering of diodes you suggested last evening that the Hall Effect switch could operate from 5V taken from the VM110. From what connection would 5V be available to power the Hall Effect Switch. If that is possible it would be neater to also use that 5V source for the Encoder and get rid of the bulky USB cable. Thanks, Peter

Allan As that suggestion for the Hall Switch was quicker to do I've given it a shot. With output (black wire) disconnected, 10KOhm added and 12V applied voltage, across Dig. Input 2 (output to ground) was 1.72V dropping to zero when the button was pushed. I reconnected the black wire, leaving the resistor in place: the red led illuminated on power up as before. Set like that the button barely affected the voltage (9V dropping to 8.72V) across Dig. Input 2. As I have a 2nd Hall Switch I tried connecting it instead. With no resistor, but black wire attached, again red led on immediately, just like the other one. Voltage across Dig. Input 2 = 2.84V. Now back to start Hugh's suggested tests. Thanks, Peter

Hugh and Alan The reply I drafted last night and thought I had sent has gone walkabouts. I didn't manage to do all the testing last night. It took me longer than I'd expected to label all the cables in advance of detaching them. With the components not yet screwed down they move about a bit as I'm working and I noted that one of the cables into relay 2 had come loose. So I decided to test as before just to see if that made any difference. Also I set the two jumpers to make the VM110 address = 0 and told Lesvedome that. It didn't make any difference within Lesvedome but in Dome.exe the encoder did produce a count so it is definitely working. I also checked voltage into the Encoder and it recorded at 5.06V. I tried the Hall Effect switch without the 10K resister but with the magnet - it did not affect the voltage which was 3.33V all the time. It remains connected to the 12V supply which, as I'm now set up that way, is easier than switching to 5V. Also, what I found with the usb cable that I cut to take power from the Raspberry Pi to the Encoder was that the wires are much thinner than all the others I'm using - probably the weakest point in the setup. As the power moving to the encoder is so low the diameter of the wire will not be the issue electrically, just it's mechanical robustness. I hope to get back to do more of the suggested testing tonight. Thanks, Peter

Hugh and Alan Thanks for the list of things to check as I was stumped. Also glad that the EM14 looks as if it's OK. The Home Switch is a 'NJK-5002C' Hall Effect Sensor. If for some reason the Pi is not putting out enough current there are still two spare usb sockets on it and I may even have the necessary Y-cable. Thanks Peter

Alan and Hugh OK, I tried all those suggestions. With the Hall Switch, detaching the black wire, and adding back the 10K resistor returned performance to the way it was in initial testing of the Switch i.e. LED only illuminating on approach of the magnet. I tried adding back another ground, as well as switching the Hall Switch ground to another of the grounds on the VM10 but it made no difference (the 10K was still in circuit for that testing) i.e. the LED came on. Testing the encoder, measuring voltages across In1 and In5 while rotating did demonstrate the voltage flips, but between 2.79V and 0.03V rather than 5V and 0V. And the flips took place regardless of he direction of rotation. So I guess the encoder is working - but is 2.79V enough? So, left unsure what to do next. Thanks, Peter

Alan Thanks for those suggestions. I've been soldering connectors tonight so I'll get on with that in the morning. Thanks, Peter

Alan and Hugh The wiring of the Hall Effect switch checked out OK including the ground. The voltage across blue and brown was 11.51V. Unfortunately the Encoder connection was incorrectly wired - so I'm fearful that I have fried it. Is there a way of checking that independent of the rest of the circuitry? My question about reversing the direction of rotation related to the Velleman test program rather than the Lesvedome software. Is there a way to test that part of the circuit's function from that program? My only real progress today was mechanical, drilling the dome for the enclosure box and the Pulsar/Rigel unit for the extra 3-way switch, and also a plate for the spring tensioner for the encoder box. At least that went to plan. Thanks, Peter

Hugh and Alan, OK, I've tried that with the demo programme. Pressing the connect button got a "Card 0 not found" response but search devices found the board as device 3. Selecting Output 1 activated the relay and the motor turned. Having got that I thought that selecting Output 2 might have got the other relays to reverse, so that with Output 1 pressed again would get a reversal of rotation but I didn't, it went the same way as before. I could not get any of the Inputs to retain the check mark so could not get a count from the encoder. Having closed that down I ran v20 of Lesvedome but no difference. I've not yet switched to V12. So does this suggest a wiring issue or issues in the connection to both the encoder and the hall switch - presumably on one side or other of the DB9 connection? Last night the Hall Effect switch was certainly getting power as the LED was illuminating. Thanks, Peter

Alan I didn't answer about metal near the Hall Switch. The brackets are aluminium and all the screws are stainless - none are in front of the sensor - which from previous testing is very directional and also reacts only to one pole of a magnet that passes. I may have something wrong in the internal wiring. I'll attack that once I get a reaction from the Relays. Thanks, Peter

Hugh I'll try what you suggest, disconnecting just the Hall Effect Switch, and using the test programme. Going to download that now. Thanks, Peter

Hugh, Sorry I was typing my last before your message was on my screen. I'll read it now.

Hugh and Alan I disconnected the Hall Switch and the Encoder - easier to do as they are both connected to the rest of the system by a single DB9 plug/socket. Thought I would try that before uninstalling and reinstalling the early version of Lesvedome. It was just as last night other than the Hall Effect switch led. Last night I did try hand rotating the encoder wheel, before the disconnection took place but it had no effect. I understand about changing version but shouldn't I expect to hear a click from two of the relays i.e. no. 4 then 1 or 2 before 3 seconds have elapsed? Thanks Peter

Hugh Thanks for that - encouraging that you think I'm not far off. I suspect that I do have that newest version installed so I will download 6.0.12, install and re-input the settings. I'll disconnect the Hall Switch - easy to do. Should I disconnect the encoder at the same time? I wasn't going to be able to properly replicate, for Lesvedome, its rotation as the motor shaft rotates, using my model-size motor. Thanks Peter

Hugh and Alan After farewells to family I went back and worked on the physical bits and pieces so only tonight did I power up for the first time (on the bench). Power was getting through to the Pi, the VM110, the Relay Board and the Hall Switch - all had LEDs illuminated, and one relay clicked too. Using Virtual Here the Pi was recognised as a hub, connected to the VM110. Lesvedome and POTH both reported 'connected' to the Dome but when I gave it a position to slew to there was no relay clicks, so no motor activity and Lesvedom disconnected. It reported "Motor stalled". Another issue was that the red LED on the Hall Effect Switch should only illuminate when passing a magnet. It stayed on with the magnet making no difference. I've checked all the wiring as far as the socket on the enclosure for the Hall Switch and Encoder, all seemed OK, and as per the final diagram.. I'll have to leave opening it the enclosure up until Friday night - too tired now.

Hugh Thanks, I was wondering about testing. I'd noted reference to simuation ad buttons for it in Ascom Poth. I have the Ascom Platform and Lesvedome installed, and I did find the setup buttons. for parameters I've inputted the various measurements, offsets etc. after checking them in the dome. One of the beds is currently covered with 'system' components including those I've wired up for testing. I then had a pause when I was back to some hardware work. The Bourne EM14 encoder is housed in a Hammond 1590 aluminium enclosure, with the Hall Effect Switch on a bracket attached to its side. In my first test of the box the encoder wheel was losing contact in places in just one quadrant of the dome. I attached a spring to pull the wheel into contact. That worked but I'd just used bits lying about. I ordered a bit of stainless steel and a stainless spring to avoid rust, so that meant an evening of measuring, drilling etc. An added complication was that one corner of the enclosure's back plate fractured. Very impressed by the Canadian manufacturer who agreed that it shouldn't have happened and sent me a free replacement. That also needed a couple of holes drilled and tapped. To simplify mounting of the Raspberry Pi, VM110, Relay Board and my little PCB with the 3 resistors and two diodes, I've cut a plastic cutting board to fit into the enclosure. My thinking is to mount all the components to it and make all the connections before sliding them, as a unit, into the plastic enclosure box. The next 4 days is taken up with a family visit so all is on hold until after that. Thanks, Peter

Alan and Hugh That's the test wiring completed - but no power applied yet. I'll not send an image as it's not a pretty sight at the moment. I've not yet made the offset measurements for Poth, nor tried to start it in advance of inputting them. Thanks, Peter

Alan Thanks for that. I've ordered some wire so when I go for the final wiring up that should make for a better and more tidy setup. Peter

Hugh Thanks for that - I'll go for the 16 awg. Peter

Hugh and Alan I didn't manage to finish last evening - soldering the few discrete components took longer than planned. Also, I've been using cabling that I already had for my test wiring which probably a mistake as little of it is single core, and I don't have much of that, without stripping it from 2 and 3 wire cable at least partially to make connections - a slow process. I have however been erring on the side of caution with cable diameter. I have noted that the cable entry points of the VM110 and one side of the Relay board are relatively small, so not appropriate for thick wire. What would be the minimum AWG rating/diameter you would recommend for the data and for the power connections - as I think I'd best buy some for a tidier final result. Thanks, Peter

Hugh and Alan Thanks for those two useful bits of simplification and great timing too. I've been working on the wiring this afternoon and evening and have stopped for tonight just before getting to the connections requiring diodes and resistors. So I will just take the wire I had put in between DI3 and DO3 and put it instead to link O2 and I4. Thanks, Peter

Alan That's great, I guess some of your and Hugh's knowledge must be rubbing off on me. I'm not as quick a learner as I once was I'm afraid. Oops on Point 3, yes that was what I meant. With all that confirmed I'll get on with the trial wiring. Thanks, Peter

Alan Thanks for the explanation. I think it confirms that 0V is in effect the negative terminal of the battery. So does that not mean that the connections from that point are not all, in effect, ground connections. I've added numbers to my diagram for the purposes of going through this. Point 1 connects the negative terminal to ground on the VM110. You said that: "The three Gnd connections on the VM110 would be joined together on the board so there is no need for all three to be connected together to Gnd externally" so that connection would take all 3 of the VM110 GRDs back to the negative terminal? Point 2 connects the negative terminal to DC- on the Relay Board so grounding it? Point 3 connects the negative terminal to NO1 and NC2 so grounding them? Point 4 connects DC- to GRD on the VM110. Hugh says I need this but if the VM110 is already grounded from Point 1 why is that additional connection to the VM110 needed? Point 5 connects the Hall Effect Switch to GRD on the VM110 so that by the internal connection on the VM110 takes that back to the negative terminal, grounding it? From what you wrote about the EM14 would be grounded via the Raspberry Pi. In turn, is the Raspberry Pi 5V grounded at the Power Bank? On another point I'm confused over the connections to the output terminals of the Relay Board. Ignoring its layout, is not my diagram similar to Hughes for the interconnections of NO4 and the protecting diode? Is yours the same as Hugh's? Thanks Peter