pmlogg

Steve, Can you tell me what the specifications are of the exposed thread at the front element? I was wondering whether it might be possible to fit a Coronado 40mm etalon to produce a light weight, compact dual purpose OTA. Thanks Peter

Hi H, I have the industrial version of the Skynyx 2-2 but Lumenera don't specifically list (on their un-updated website) Sharpcap as a compatible software. If you've not already done it you could check their website: https://www.lumenera.com/media/wysiwyg/resources/documents/product_brochures/astro/lumenera-astro-camera-brochure.pdf I use the camera just for very occasional Solar imaging with Lucam Recorder. Unfortunately that software is no longer offered for sale and I've not been able to contact the author, Heiko Wilkens by email. You may be able to get hold of him by other means as I can see Google hits for him for Facebook and Instagram, which I don't use. I can also see websites offering Lucam recorder as a download but it did require licensing so I have my doubts about those sites.

Found two listings on Aliexpress (they are a collection of sellers shops): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001834884339.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.6883pBJTpBJTYG&algo_pvid=5b260a1d-0b9f-4961-9f3f-e398b769e7e3&algo_exp_id=5b260a1d-0b9f-4961-9f3f-e398b769e7e3-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!2574.27!2574.27!!!3052.98!!%40211b61bb16968924019982123e53aa!12000017794737870!sea!UK!792347191!&curPageLogUid=JHcg1iEjidIQ and https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005874202994.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.6883pBJTpBJTYG&algo_pvid=5b260a1d-0b9f-4961-9f3f-e398b769e7e3&algo_exp_id=5b260a1d-0b9f-4961-9f3f-e398b769e7e3-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!2479.67!2479.67!!!21469.00!!%40211b61bb16968924019982123e53aa!12000034659017561!sea!UK!792347191!&curPageLogUid=aQqO4IlY3QQh One would work out at £3089, the other at £2975. They add the UK VAT at checkout. I think both are free postage. The prices change with the exchange rate which probably explains why £2975 rather than £2904.

No, instead I'm trying to find a second hand ASI2400MC-Pro. I've got an ad on Astrobuysell at the moment.

With mine it was the adapter version with push in male pins. They didn't lock into position which is why I glued them. The adapter may have been from a different manufacturer. Perhaps I was just lucky they aligned but I did make sure they looked correct before the glue set. Anyway it's been fine since I glued it.

Perhaps the large Riccardi 0.75 reducer from APM, sold by several UK astro kit supplies. It comes in Large (M82 thread) and Small (M63 thread) versions. Adapters are available but can be a bit pricey. Someone is selling a used M82 threaded one on Astrobuysell. That is what I use with my similar spec refractor.

That's the sort of adapter I used for my Lakeside connection, but with a male DB9 end. One thing I found with that was that the pins had a tendency to be pushed back when connected to the female DB9. I ended up super gluing them into position.

I did something similar to allow control of a Lakeside focus motor with an Optec FocusLynx. I used a multi-meter as suggested and the combination works fine. Jeff at Optec is super helpful if you have questions.

Thanks for that. It was the support and software compatibility I had most in mind but the accessories are another issue I hadn't considered. Similarly, I'd not noted the backfocus differences but I think I could manage that with the adapters I have now. The front plate of all the versions, except the QHY, seem to have the same hole pattern and 2.5mm size. I have an M54 ZWO filter drawer that I would want to use with the camera.

My imaging is done with a large refractor at native f8 or at reduced f6. I've been doing monochrome with filters (LRGB and narrowband) but I find it difficult to find time to do the processing required to make the best of the subs taken. So, I'm considering moving to a colour camera combined with a quad-band filter - which I already have, when necessary. Although I know it's not a common choice, the IMX410 chip seems to have the pixel size and features that would suit me. My setup could also take advantage of the full-frame sensor. I've had a look at what's out there and at prices. The ZWO ASI2400MC-Pro has a UK price of £3690 but £2904 including UK VAT and shipping from AliExress. The QHY410C has been discontinued and is around the same UK price if it can be found. The Altair Hypercam AA24CFx is £2800. Then there is the RisingCam (or ToupTek) SkyEye24C from AliExpress at £2235 (Wintop shop) or £2425 (RisingCam shop I think), both including UK VAT and shipping. So a price range of around £1450 The front fittings of all of these seem to be the same and they also share very similar USB3, USB hub and power connections. Ignoring the advantage of the ZWO compatibility with the ASI Air, which I don't plan to use, are there other compelling reasons to spend more on the ASI2400MC-Pro rather than the Hypercam or even the SkyEye24C? I haven't yet tried the second-hand market for either the ZWO or the Hypercam.

Thanks again for all your suggestions. In the end it was a combination of successive cooling and warming plus persevering with using normal palm force that did it. Now all my adapters have been waxed to avoid further mishaps!

Vlaiv, I like the ideal of testing the debonding first. And I still have to have a go at some other options - family visits and prep for them have delayed my attempts. Ouroboros, Not much thread for a vice to get hold of; that's part of the reason for my thought of trying to use a sacrificial M48 adapter. Again, for a similar reason not much to stick into water (and I'm rather adverse to having water near the reducer) but perhaps with an M48 extension it could be dipped in to suck heat from the adapter.

Hi Richard They weren't those gloves but two different types of kitchen rubber gloves, also heat retardant gloves that have a type of rubber insert. Also used different types of rubber squares on top and below. I think the purchase is a big part of the problem, also that the M82 threads are quite deep/long as it the image I posted. It's likely that the WD40 didn't manage to get all the way down. Even though I used quite a bit, the gaps for it to enter are very small. And of course I don't want to get oil, water or debris onto the lens surface. Stefan Yes, a strap wrench, which I have, could help with the reducer, using one of the other suggestions for the M48 side. Has anyone got experience of debonding superglue? As I mentioned in my first post? Thanks again all.

Thank you so much for the response and for the suggestions. For Vlaiv, here's an image of the adapter. It is as you drew, male on both sides. When in use just the 2mm wide edge is visible. I have had one try pulling on another adapter but so far no success. For Stuart1971, I had already tried that several times with, different rubber mats but had no joy with it. I will let you know how I get on - I will try the least destructive first, not least to protect the glass from damage, including from metal filings.

Another stuck adapter topic I'm afraid. I am making changes to my set up and need to remove an M82 to M48 adapter from my Riccardi 0.75x reducer. Unfortunately it is stuck solid! The photo shows the adapter in question attached to the reducer. It is quite thin which is part of the problem - virtually no edge at the M82 side of the adapter and the M48 side thread is quite far from the stuck M82 threads so pressure there is not directly opposite. There are a lot of good suggestions that I've read, and I've tried a number of them. Included in the list are using training shoes, using rubber mats, rubber gloves. putting WD40 in the joint and repeated sequential cooling and freezing. With the reducer being an expensive piece of kit I've not heated beyond room temperature. No success with any attempt yet. I have had one other thought and that was to superglue a sacrificial M48 extension to the M48 thread, put the M48 side into a padded vice and seek to rotate the reducer by rubber-gloved hand. Afterwards hopefully I might be able to salvage the M82 to M48 adapter by use of a commercially available superglue debonder or acetone. Any comments or suggestions would be very welcome. And yes, I have noted that I need to use boot polish or similar before using any more adapters.

You are very welcome and thanks for the information about the bottom of the helical focuser. I use a Starlight Xpress Ultrastar camera as my guider so not similar to yours I'm afraid. I will have a look at cloudy nights but could you send the link?

Just yesterday I took delivery of the Max version. Looking at the drawing of the Mini on the Player One website the helical focuser looks the same. The top of the OAG, including the 1.25" port, is held on by a pair of socket grub screws. Loosening those allows some upward movement of the helical focuser etc. The prism stalk also moves up and down of course, but that movement is limited in both directions by grub screws. In terms of suitability for full frame cameras I went for the Max version because that allows use of a larger M68 (an optional extra) opening on the OTA side to avoid any shadowing of the imaging chip, even if I went to 36x24mm. My system has an image circle of 60mm that I can take advantage of for that and also to give more up-down options with the rectangular mirror. I intend to use M48 on the camera side which with the prism out of the way should not be big enough even for full frame.

Since my post Player One have told me that the adapters, including the M68 will fit on either side of the OAG. Their design has 6 holes at 30 degree spacing on both sides rather than the 4 used by some other manufacturers. I reckon that would give me enough choice of positions to allow the prism to sit completely out of the light path reaching the imager. My guider is an Ultrastar, so the 14 x 8mm dimensions of the OAG mirror would be more than enough. The extra height of a 12x12mm would be more of a disadvantage than an advantage

Hi, I had this confusing sentence from Player One "FHD-OAG MAX is not support camera directly, it must work with Filter Drawer MAX. camera side of Filter Drawer MAX is M54/M48, not OAG." Could you please you tell me what the fitment is on the camera side of the OAG?, are there any threads or is it just screws. Might you be able to post an image of that side? Thanks

Thanks, I'll have a look.

OK. The ZWO OAG-L 68mm is the other one that I was looking at. It has a big mirror too, but the rectangular format of the Player One would be a good match for my guider. Thanks

How is the Player One FHD-OAG-MAX? I was just looking at it plus the M68 adapter

The 2.7m dome design has changed a couple of times and with it Pulsar's system for rotation. The oldest version, which I have, has a two piece shutter. Could you post images to show the wall arrangement as that was the big change that made later models easier to automate. In terms of control systems there is an Ascom programme called Levesdome.net which works with a Velleman kit circuit board. The programme is specifically written for dome automation. I used an original Pulsar dome rotation system for a 2.2m dome, bought second-hand, modified it to fit the 2.7m dome then added switches and other components to run it using Levesdome. You can find mine and other peoples solutions in this topic area.

I think they key thing, that I should have thought of, is that the Boss II system allows control of two focusers. Clearly the EFS hand control, being designed for a single focuser system, has no means of switching from one to the other. Thanks for the reply.

I would like to add a hand controller to my recently acquired Starlight Instruments Boss II control box. Is anyone able to tell me whether the compact hand controller from the Starlight Instruments Electronic Focusing System (SI-EFS) is compatible with the Boss II? I have asked Starlight Instruments and searched on-line but haven’t found an answer.