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Posts posted by scotty38
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17 minutes ago, StuartT said:
Someone* helpfully suggested a reason I have been having all this trouble. My rig is connected to the laptop via a 15m USB cable. Apparently USB signals can't travel more than a few metres before getting messed up (🤦♂️)^2.
So he suggested I use a mini PC on the telescope and then wifi out to that.
* thanks @Stuart1971
Glad you finally listened 🤣🤣🤣 🤣
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I must admit I'm surprised but there you go. Did you just use the WBPP defaults as it were as I wouldn't expect there's anything wrong with WBPP as such but if there is it would be worth posting on the PI forum?
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Ok will be interesting to see if there is any difference
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Did you blink or look at all 282 of your lights? Any chance there is any of them with this in them, maybe caught the edge of the Obs or something???
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12 minutes ago, rnobleeddy said:
Does this hold for the colour version too? I heard of those issues as I own the QHY mono version right now, but my understanding was there were actually different chips, and QHY fixed at least some of the issue with new firmware.
The mono is the 492 sensor and the colour the 294. What the fundamental differences are I couldn't tell you.
I have had the ZWO 294mc and now have a QHY 294m and both need careful calibration frames but once you sort that out the cameras are fine. I had a bit of pain with the 294mc but I was using an l-extreme filter which just adds to it but once sorted (there's a thread on here somewhere) it was great.
I've only been imaging for just under 2 years and the 294mc was my first camera so it can be done as a beginner no worries.
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1 hour ago, wornish said:
Just a word of caution these supplies are designed to work indoors and certainly not out in the open. So if you are using it in an observatory then fine, but even then I would be very concerned about dew forming. Ideally it should be in a waterproof box. 240V and water don't mix well!
Yes I think I already said that....
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I'm not sure what plug type the ASIAIR needs but I bought eh Silicon cables from FLO like this:
I bought the ones with the ring tongues, one dedicated to my AZ-EQ6 and then one with a 2.1mm end for my Pegasus powerbox.
When my kit was outside I put the whole shooting match, laptop and PSU in one of the plastic toybox type of box with a lid and no issues at all.
I probably wouldn't leave it outside naked, certainly not at this time of year anyway. It says it's designed for indoor use on the instructions but they all say that and 90% of astro folk with these will be leaving them outside in some way or other.
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It'll work and I've used similar but I can highly recommend both of the Nevada power supplies that FLO sells. Yes they are more money but you can kiss goodbye to any power issues in the future., plus they can be used to power other stuff too.
Oh and the EQ6 mounts thrive on having more than 12v supplied too which was the issue I had with the brick type especially if you try to run more than just the mount.
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The thing is you cut the back of the scope off so are you absolutely sure that's not part of any issue you're seeing? If that's not been machined 100% in line with the rest of the optics I guess you're on a hiding to nothing.
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You can use "Loop until Altitude Below" and then run an end sequence to stop guiding etc etc
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10 minutes ago, George Sinanis said:
I managed ove rthe past 2 days to collect 20 hrs (240 x 300secs) of data with the Stellamira ED90 Triplet + Reducer x0.8 + 2600MC. Looking at this. i might need even more subs.....
You may have better processing skills than me though... I'm just processing the extra 150 frames from last night so will be interesting to see how much difference it makes
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4 hours ago, gorann said:
Well, it is definitively there, but the light grasp of a RASA8 is 6 times that of your GT81, so you will need more time.
EDIT: Did you try starless processing? If not, that may get you closer.
Yes agreed on the RASA and I'm imaging as we speak so hopefully will have double the amount tomorrow.
No, no starless imaging just a channel combination and stretch. I figured I would need more data so just wanted a quick look at what I had. Will try starless etc tomorrow, thanks.
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Like most of the other threads I think you're all talking to yourselves anyway 🤣
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Sorry to see that, hope it's sorted quickly!
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36 minutes ago, gorann said:
Thanks Scotty! I think you are the third one on this thread that now plans to aim at it! The best of luck!
My sequence is ready to go 🙂
If it stays clear all night I should get a good run at it...
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1 hour ago, powerlord said:
There is no way that scope is balanced.... Amateur hour.... 🤣😂
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Nice image and added to my list so will try tonight if the forecast holds out....
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2 hours ago, Ratlet said:
The second biggest is the documentation which isn't so much lacking, but rather lacking a quick start guide.
Like this?
https://nighttime-imaging.eu/docs/master/site/quickstart/uioverview/
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okey doke. What happens if you send it home and after it goes way off, power off and then move it to the home position. At next power on when required would it return home or go to the same wrong position?
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I assume you power it on in the "Home" position and you don't manually move its axes at any time? I also assume plate solving etc works ok?
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Primary and background may be the text boxes you're speaking of, looking at my colours anyway....
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Button foreground and button background is one of the text settings. I'll check mine to see what else there is.
BlurXTerminator - Wow!
in Imaging - Discussion
Posted
Unless it's been fixed in the last few months APP bins most of the fits info in its final images. I had issues with this for ages and asked for it to be looked at. It was on the list to be remedied but don't know if it has yet.