Newforestgimp

40 minutes ago, Ouroboros said:

Same here. I have been happy with the performance of my ASIair Pro with my AZ-EQ6 but wanted a more portable mount.  The GEM45 + ASIair Plus combo looked like it ticked all the boxes. To put it mildly I’m annoyed and disappointed. 

On a more positive note I’ve started experimenting and testing using the iStarfi wifi dongle, and so far it’s allowing me to control the mount with CDC/Stellarium/APT remotely but I can’t get control of cameras via that wifi link.

so for me I can see me removing the AAP altogether and going back to a laptop and a long usb cable to the pier mounted usb hub, unless I can come up with another cunning plan.

6 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

Do you know what the addition of a USB hub between the ASI and the mount is doing exactly?  I assume that’s a powered USB hub? 

I don’t understand the issue tbh, another guy on a different thread stripped his mount down and replaced the internal wiring.

my hub is powered, but as stated before if you have an ASI Astro camera with a hub this also works apparently.

it’s really annoying as I chose the GEN45 partly on its through wiring to help simplify spaghetti junction and now it’s worse.

Since using a usb between AAP and mount I haven’t had any issues, the ZWO recommendation is to use the usb hub on the back of their Astro cameras, I don’t currently own one sadly, so it’s the hub for the time being.

interested to know how you connected your AA+ directly to the mount ?

1 hour ago, michael8554 said:

If that works, who cares if it's different to your other mount ?

Michael

It doesn’t, with hindsight. Not something I’m blessed with.

2 hours ago, The Admiral said:

Off topic, how have you found connecting the AAP to a GEM45? There seems to be a lot of discussion on the ZWO forum about connection problems, but it would seem that this is with the later mounts that have only one USB socket that serves for both the mount and for iPolar. Mine has two sockets, one for each. I have a new AAPlus arriving tomorrow, and I'd like to be prepared .

Ian

Hi Ian,

yeah it seems a common problem that connection from AAP to GEM 45 needs to go via a USB HUB, it worked instantly when this was done. The usb hub could also be that which is on back of ZWO ASI Cameras 👍

21 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Understood. I was wondering whether they might actually induce vibrations, or flexure. I think I’d prefer something that was rigid. Will be interesting to see how you get on

Agree, it’s 100% experiment, might just end up with leather washers to eliminate any resonance there might be.

9 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

Just wondering where your vibration is coming from. I’ve never had the need for such on a permanent pier 🤔

I don’t have any vibrations as such, but stainless steel has inherent spring which is noticeable when setting up. So this is just an experiment to see if that is deadened , if it does then any unwanted, unseen heavy footed visitors might also be eased. That and they only cost a couple of quid each 😂 

She brought me the ability to create Mkiii of my DIY pier….

(the anti vibration engine mounts.)

Something to help me ruin a perfectly good scope 😂 

Hi All,

Is anybody using an iOptron iStarfi wifi adapter with their GEM45 mount ? I’m tempted but can’t find too much on it regarding its real world performance, is it any good ? Range ok ?

Im hoping it might replace the Asiair for wireless home use so I can go back to APT PHD2 etc.

regards

Andy

8 hours ago, Adam1234 said:

This is so much more help than some of the other very long winded and complicated instructions I have found.  Some of the other sites on RCT collimation physically gave me a headache.

Let us know if it works out, bit concerned I will make mine worse 😂 

10 hours ago, Ludd said:

I delivered a fairly large package to my own house on Sunday.  To my amazement, the skies cleared and I was treated to some amazing views of Jupiter and Saturn as well as M13, M27 and M57.  

WMD ?

Perfect Vlaiv, thank you.

As you suggest I think I will remove the reducer and see how I get on with exposure times. I will also try the binning on the ASI AIR too see if that helps.

Andy

Thanks Vlaiv,

i “think” I now understand the relationship between the reducer back focus and sensor, your explanation really helps.

So in theory if I dropped the filter drawer that would get me somewhere closer to ideal. Or remove the reducer from the equation and the filter drawer could stay for example ?

how about the extender rings between OTA and focuser ? Do I need 50mm or can I reduce that ?

Sorry to resurrect this but my head is scrambled trying to work out back focus and reductions. I'm yet to test my new set up but i wondered if someone could give me a yay or nay with what i have put together and if im going to be able to achieve focus ?

RC8"  >  50mm extension ring  >  focuser  >  CCD47  >  ZWO OAG 16.5mm  >  ALTAIR Filter Drawer 17mm  >  WO M48 T Mount 11mm  >  550D DSLR 44mm

I have pushed the CCD47 as far into the focuser as possible so that the OAG butts up against the focuser, & by my measurements & component specs i get 88.5mm from focuser to the sensor plane on the 550D APS-C sensor. I can see TSO recommend 85mm, will the extra 3.5mm hurt me or should i look to ditch something like the T Mount for a slimmer version ?

I'm getting a bit lost when people say they are using the 0.67 reducer at 0.72 and how this is achieved ?

Do I need the 50mm Extender Ring or should i attached the focuser direct to the OTA ?

Any advice appreciated, even better if its in proper layman terms. Id like to know before i spend hours trying to achieve the impossible if one of the clever people on here could say Yes that'll work or don't be silly you'll never get focus with that lot 🤣

Regards

Andy

Heavy duty all weather cover for when rig left out on pier for extended periods…

20 hours ago, saac said:

Your 8 inch design should still be fine , you can print it in sections to accommodate the size of the print bed.  If you look on Thingverse there are a few examples of large diameter Bahtinov mask done this way . 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784124

Jim 

 

I don’t actually own a 3D printer, I’m trying to find a suitable flats panel that doesn’t cost too much and allows me to leave scope polar aligned ie not pointing vertical to balance a panel on it. The designs above look fab.

1 hour ago, A320Flyer said:

Sorry, just saw your post. 
Unfortunately, I don’t have a design for this. The difficulty is that there is a limit to what can be printed on the small-sized heated bed of the printer. Up to about 120mm aperture for a refractor is about as far as you can go. ☹️
Bill

No problem, and of course the penny just dropped on the size of printer involved.

thank you

2 hours ago, CCD-Freak said:

I used an old University Optic "Kit Scope" which is 80mm F6.25 with 500mm FL with my RC-8 and now with my AT10RC and it woks very well.  It gives me a wider field with lots of stars to choose from.  I don't use rings for mounting to limit possible differential flexure.  These scopes are rare now but if one could find or make something similar they would be happy.  The attached NGC4565 was guided with the UO 80mm and an ASI-290MM using Astro-Art and PHD guiding.

 

 

Wow, love the shots and love how that guide scope looks. Do you have an idea of overall weight of the entire rig ?

excitiiiiing, TSO RC8 Carbon, now if anyone knows how to get the correct spacing & assembly order for reducer/filter drawer/OAG/DSLR I’d be eternally grateful 🙏🏼😉

Hi Bill,

I have no means to print these but intrigued all the same , do you have a design for an RC8” ? & how much would you charge for making and posting ?

regards

Andy

Morning All,

so on another thread where I posed the question about a suitable guidescope for an RC8 scope the feeling is I should really look at OAG.

Which OAG should I look for ? My instinct is the ZWO on the assumption they’ve designed it for their guide cams.

Which filter drawer ? The Altair m48/m48 I’m currently looking at.

any recommendations and advice on setting up the image train appreciated.

Clear skies

Andy

Thank you 👍

Im coming round to OAG I think after doing some more reading this evening, so think I might be investigating which OAG & filter drawer to get. Thinking the ZWO OAG and the Altair filter drawer.

21 minutes ago, fwm891 said:

I use my RC8 with and without a reducer (0.67x). I use an ASI533MC Pro as my imaging camera. Filter wise when there’s little or no moon I use. Baader UV/IR cut filter for galaxy’s star clusters or globulars, for nebulae I use an IDAS NBZ.

I have  homemade filter draw which allows me to keep the correct face of the filter to the sky. I no longer shoot mono, so no filter wheel. I use the 2” and a 1” extension tubes my filter draw (19mm) and the standard focuser. I also have a motor focus unit as it’s difficult getting that last fine adjustment manually.

I hope that helps.

It does thank you, I will initially be using a DSLR, I had read that the 2” and a 1” extension tube will give correct focus. If I introduce a filter drawer into the mix do I then have to remove the 1” extender and replace with a 6mm extension if using your 19mm filter drawer as an example ?

36 minutes ago, fwm891 said:

I use a TS 60mm as Guidescope on my TS RC 8. OAG’s are great but can be very restrictive on fov. I have my 60mm guider mounted under the main ota and forward, that really helps with balance as the RC 8 is back heavy to start with. TS do an 80mm guide scope which would be better still. I use an ASI120mm as  guide camera on the 60mm.

Think I’ll give the 50mm a go first, good tip about underslung and out front mounting, I will look to do this.

Do you use the reducer or straight through ? Filter wheel/drawer ?

keen to understand what spacers I might need if I were to filter drawer &/or OAG