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Posts posted by doublevodka
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I'm another fan of the https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/ forecast, if you click show full forecast once you've chosen your location and change the visibility from description to km it gives a not bad idea of how the seeing is going to be, above 30 usually means decent seeing for me. That said the weather has been absolute rubbish for what seems like 18 months, even when "clear" the seeing has not been that great which is a bit frustrating to say the least
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One of these? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/skywatcher-l-bracket-dovetail.html Not sure if it's wide enough for a skymax, but FLO would likely be able to tell you
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So everyone make some valid points here, but I also know what it's like having a young daughter who really really wants a telescope
For your budget you'd be best looking at the used market if possible, for ease of use and fairly easy resale (just in case of loss of interest) I'd say a Skywatcher Hertiage 130P would be a good option. They occasionally come up for around the top end of your budget - new examples here from the forum sponsor - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/heritage.html
You'll need something sturdy to put it on to use such as a 3 legged stool
Also worth joining your local astronomy club (lots are on facebook) and asking there for opinions etc, but make sure you specify the budget, they may have some other options and possibly stuff for sale locally to you
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2 hours ago, PeterC65 said:
I also have the WO binoviewer and the Skymax 127. I did some research a while back and concluded that the focal length of the scope is increased by 3.75 times the increase in optical path length. The WO binoviewer without a Barlow / GPC increases the optical path length by 100mm and so it increases the focal length of the Skymax 127 by 375mm. That's enough to make a noticeable difference.
That makes a lot of sense, thanks for the info 👍 Hopefully will get some clear and stable skies soon to give it a really good test 🤞
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1 hour ago, Space Hopper said:
Difficult to precisely calculate with a moving mirror type scope, but when you extend the lightpath beyond a certain point
the scopes focal length will rise more and more. I think its over 3mm of extra focal length per mm of lightpath added.
So theres always extra magnification.
Other issues as well such as a bit of aperture loss, a bit of contrast loss, and a bit of extra SA, but they shouldn't degrade the views too much.
Good to hear you are enjoying the 2 eyed views 🙂👍🏼
Had a feeling it would be difficult to calculate, seems similar mag to a 12.5mm plossl direct into the scope but very happy with the views, looking forward to giving it a go on the moon too!
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On 13/10/2022 at 09:47, Dave scutt said:
Hi all @Elp pointed me in this direction thanks.
I'm thinking of getting an AZGTI mount to use with a DSLR camera which i need to get as well and later on maybe a scope once i understand how to process the image's.
Is it just literally set it up point to where you want and it will track. Are they easy to set up and use
Is there anything else i would need to buy like power bank and lead's , EQ wedge etc
Any more help would be appreciated .
Thanks dave
If you're going to go straight to eq mode, maybe consider this too - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/equatorial-astronomy-mounts/sky-watcher-star-adventurer-gti.html unless you are looking on the used market (and sorry to derail the thread slightly)
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Hi all,
After a fair bit of deliberation, I've picked up a Williams Optics binoviewer with the standard 20mm eyepieces. I tried this for the first time last night on Jupiter and Saturn with my Skymax 127 and noticed that the magnification seems to be more than I'd expect with a 20mm eyepiece on its own?
I've assumed that this is down to the extended light path through the extra glass in the binoviewer, but is there a calculator out ter that can help me confirm it similiar to http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ ?
On a side note, love the view with two eyes! Even with the bad seeing conditions last night I was really impressed, can't wait to try it again on a good night 👍
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10 hours ago, woldsman said:
Thanks - would this involve drilling a thread hole and attaching the dovetail clamp to each end? Sorry if I am asking the obvious.
Yes it doesn't look like there are any holes there already so you would potentially need to drill it. I've also seem scopes strapped to those kind of mounts with large jubilee clips with a rubber liner on the inside
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20 minutes ago, Dave scutt said:
The problem i have with the phone is when held up to the EP i get a purple glare and unable to take any images
I believe this is down to the laser autofocus, didn't used to have the problem with my Pixel 3a, but since I upgraded to the 6 have had exactly the same purple problem. Been tempted to put some black tape over it but so far haven't given it a go.
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4 hours ago, cajen2 said:
How about this, if you could stretch your budget?
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock/starfield-102mm-f7-ed-doublet-refractor.html
Give you a whole lot more aperture, good quality optics and still come in under the AZ-Gti's weight limit.😉
It's lovely, but I can't see the financial controller signing off on that 😉
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34 minutes ago, Elp said:
The 80mm might just about do it but you have to bear in mind the pressure you're putting onto the mount, with imaging gear added it might struggle to guide consistently, for visual it should be okay but you might still need a counterweight to keep it balanced. My imaging payload is around 6kg, it's just about okay with the Z61 and 50mm guidescope, with a C6 however you really start to hear those gears turning and see the subsequent struggles in the RMS readings when autoguiding. A 130PDS is technically feasible but I found it wobbles a lot due to wind capture from the scope, so definately wouldn't be useful for imaging or visual - it depends on whether you have a strong thick legged tripod, you'll also need to raise the mount onto a pier extension for clearance from the tripod.
Thanks for the info, that was my worry with the pds
33 minutes ago, bomberbaz said:Have you looked at this
Yes, although for visual it would cost me a bit more than the 80ED
16 minutes ago, Owmuchonomy said:We have used the AZ-Gti and ED80 combination for 3 years at all the Observatory events so far. It is the perfect combination for that purpose, quick to set up, user friendly, high contrast and can be wide field. Look no further.
Was hoping someone had used the same combo, good to know! I literally leave it set up in the shed with the skymax 127 and carry out one-handed at the mo, was hoping it would be just as easy
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46 minutes ago, bomberbaz said:
Andy, have a look in this thread for some help with your query. There are quite a few, myself included who use the AZ GTi for imaging but I am not aware of people using an OTA any heavier than around 2kg.
I know @AstroNebulee uses a 72ED. However the 80ED is over 2kg heavier at 4.1kg and if you are wanting to image down the line, you are going to be too heavy I think.
Remember that you will have a guidescope, cameras and counter balance bar + weight to add to that, not to mention cables which all adds to the weight onto a mount rated up to 5kg.
I use the SW Evoguide + field flattener for my imaging, it's wide field setup which suits the mount well.
HTH
Steve
Thanks Steve, I've had a poke around in that thread but it's a bit of a beast now, so many pages
Being realistic, it'll probably be mostly visual and I'm a bit worried that the 72 won't cut it, seen lots of info about people using the 80ED for visual and enjoying it, not so much for the 72.
Or maybe I just get a short tube 80 and forget about imaging
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If you have some basic diy skills how about fitting a dovetail clamp to each end, like these for example - https://www.darkclearskies.co.uk/products/svbony-fully-metal-dovetail-mounting-clamp?variant=42157963903153¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic
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Hi all,
I've got a Skymax 127 Mak on my AZ-GTi and have been thinking that I'd like something with a wider field on there.
Mainly for visual use, but thinking longer term I may want to do a little astrophotography, possibly in eq mode with the AZ-GTi or maybe a future mount upgrade. So far I have it narrowed down to 3 options.
Skywatcher 72 ED, 80 ED or 130PDS?
I prefer the increased contrast of a refractor so I think I've ruled out the 130 PDS, my gut says an 80 ED as the kit comes with a 2 inch diagonal and eyepiece to give nice widefield views.
Does this seem like a sensible choice or are there other options I should be considering? The 80 ED would be at the top end of my budget (in an ideal world I'd pick up a used one)
Ideally sticking with the AZ-GTi mount as I love the convenience of the goto and portability (before I get a load of dob recommendations 😂)
Thanks,
Andy
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Nice scope you have there, was only reading about them yesterday strangely enough!
Bit hard to comment without a budget in mind, but the mount is always the main thing, any weakness there is going put you back, no matter how good the equipment on top of it is. If you like Celestron kit, then maybe have a read here - https://www.scopereviews.com/page3l.html
Plenty of people manage fine with DSLR's like that so my first recommendation would be mount, then cameras, then guiding equipment
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Have a little look here https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?typechoice[]=Telescope-Reflector&titlechoice[]=For+Sale&titlechoice[]=For+Sale+-+Dealer+Ad&titlechoice[]=For+Sale+-+Kit+Tester&minprice=&maxprice= as you wont have access to the for sale section on the forum yet, a couple of examples for you of available dobs
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I'd agree with the seeing explanation, atmospheric conditions for me have been rubbish for months so even on clear nights I've not been able to push the magnification much on my SkyMax 127.
The easiest quick way I've found to judge it is look straight up, if the star overhead appear to be twinkling, then the sky is not very steady (jet stream etc.) and you are not going to be able to push the magnification.
The description of it being "on fire" also makes me think it's seeing that's affecting you, objects appear to bubble and shake around (this can also happen if the scope has not cooled enough, but let's not overcomplicate things)
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15 hours ago, Mandy D said:
I'm curious as to why it declares 115V a.c. output on the label and has a UK standard BS1363 socket fitted in the photos! 🤣
The Dutch link below gives more information and declares 110 V on the label but indicates 220 V in the text. Inverter output is 100 VA. But look how much more expensive it is ...
https://www.ganymedes.nl/en/product/orion-dynamo-pro-power-supply-155wh-ac-dc/
Funny enough I thought the same, but in the questions below FLO have clarified it, so I think it's just a stock photo
Q1. Is output from the UK 3-pin AC socket 120V or 240V?
Output is: AC 230v 50Hz (EU/UK version)
AC output power is: Continuous 100W output, Modified Sine Wave -
There's a new product which may interest you on FLO - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/batteries-powerpacks/orion-dynamo-pro-155wh-acdcusb-lithium-power-supply.html
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Hi @Bettyboop, take a look here for some more info - https://nexstarsite.com/OddsNEnds/NoResponse.htm
https://nexstarsite.com/ is very useful for anyone with a Nexstar 👍
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15 hours ago, Neil H said:
Thanks that's something to think about
There are cheaper versions available, for example this - https://www.altairastro.com/starwave-dual-vixensynta-175-inch-side-by-side-dovetail-bar-kit-230mm-ota-separation-208-p.asp but certainly worth a thought 👍
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On 17/09/2022 at 04:30, WilliamAstro said:
This night I took my rig out, the usual 127 SLT. Everything was going smoothly getting Jupiter, Saturn and Neptune, but when I went to slew to Uranus, the mobility of the telescope mount started behaving strangely. The telescope wont move sideways normally anymore and would be slow and I set the motor speed to 9 but the movement is still stubborn. But I can move the telescope up and down, now I can’t move it sideways. When I point at a target the telescope was just getting lost into oblivion and I tried turning everything on and off my unplugging the extension lead to the power adapter itself, still had the same problem. I am convinced my 3 year old Nexstar SLT mount has had it and I need to get another computerised go-to mount but it has to be affordable.
Depending on how confident you are with DIY it'd be worth stripping the mount, removing the old chinese glue / grease, regreasing with white lithium grease. I've had a couple of celestron goto mounts including a GT which is very similar to the SLT one and they are fairly simple to take apart, just take pictures as you do it.
If it's broken and you are thinking of replacing it anyway it's got to be worth a shot? Some instructions here to help - https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/569987-disassembly-guide-for-celestron-slt-gt-mounts/
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If your mount is up to it weight wise you could also do something like this? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-vixen-type-v-series/adm-v-series-side-by-side-mounting-system.html
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Pulsar Observatory
in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Posted
If you're not a fan of windows then I'd definitely suggest looking into something like the ASIair Plus - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-asiair-plus-wireless-astrophotography-controller.htm - but maybe speak to FLO first to check compatibility.
There are other options out there, but as I understand it the ASIair is a bit of a swiss army knife when it comes to controlling compatible astro kit, no windows to deal with either
https://astrobackyard.com/zwo-asiair-plus/