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Bibabutzemann

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Everything posted by Bibabutzemann

  1. Whale and Hockey Stick Galaxy ~7 hours
  2. Thanks! I dont do it too often too. I think its a way more interesting target for longer focal length. Image rotation would work, because there is a lock ring. But you have to refocus for every rotation and when you want to change the filter on top of the CC, you need to unscrew to whole thing...Doesnt sound very comfortable to use, but might be worth it.
  3. Could be collimation or tilting issue. This is how i approach that issue. Anyone tried one of these? https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p5417_Lacerta-Schraubadapter-fuer-Baader-Komakorrektor-an-Skywatcher-Newtons.html Moon, lucky imaging, Canon 1200D It was windy, but the seeing was good. (16:9 crop cause i love Moon Shots as Wallpapers)
  4. Is there a known solution for 48mm Filters like the L extreme? Whith Clip Filters this would be no problem.
  5. Ok well i dont really like using PHD for polar allign, because its way slower. But NINAs polar allignment feature should do the trick. One thing im still scepitcal about is using the oag while having the L extreme filter on the front of my CC.
  6. now you also got me interested in OAG. I just wonder is polar allignment through sharpcap still possible? The fow seems to small with OAG. Also i wonder if you always find multiple stars with the OAG. Because multi star guiding improves the EQ3 guiding significantly.
  7. the ZWO 120mm mini is the one i would choose. Its future proof because its so popular, which means software issues will be sorted out faster. I use the 60mm Artesky Ultraguide scope, but i think 50mm is really more than enough. I attached the guidescope like this So i basically just screwed the dovetail of the bracket onto the top.
  8. I think even in Bortle 5 it still makes sense to use a LP filter because its a lot easier to deal with Gradients. This is especially the case for nebula which cover the whole framing and proper background extraction is really hard to do. I asked because i also used the CLS filter and recognized the warm tone of your picture. Its purely preference, but i always lowered the temperature a good amount to get closer to RGB colors.
  9. I also have the EQ3 Pro and 130 PDS. If the conditions are not windy, guiding works quite good. Few days a ago i did 10x10min exposure and didnt have to throw away any data. I agree with vlaiv. For this setup a guide scope is the better choice. With the guide scope you can also do pretty accurate polar alignment with Sharpcap. You will reach the limit of the EQ3 with the 130 PDS though. For better balancing i would attach the Guide scope on the back of the Newton and in opposite direction in respect to focuser+camera. I have a 60mm guide scope, but 50mm is enough.
  10. As a cam i would buy a used Canon DSLR, like the EOS 1200D or 1100D. Similiar price range, but more flexibility and MUCH better perfomance for Deep Sky imaging.
  11. Beautiful! really nice framing. Did you use a LP filter? I had my first try with the L extreme Filter (got it used for 215€, condition like new 😇 ) This is only 1h40min, because of my limited view in south direction. So its quite noisy. I hope to add another 2-3 hours this season. 130PDS,1200Da, EQ3 Pro, 10x10min@ISO1600 The moon was not too far from this object and my south sky is pretty light polluted, so im impressed. No DBE was needed. Rosette Nebula in HOO: Same night i did 2 hours on Leo Triplet, getting ready for galaxy season. (Hopefully with better weather)
  12. I tried slight imbalance and it didnt improve the settle time. Maybe its backlash. When i do manual dithering i always make the last small nudges in north and west direction. After that i start guiding and it only needs a few seconds to settle. I dont understand why the automatic dithering cant do it in the same way.
  13. Did you use background extraction and then autostretch in Siril? Because in my experience Siril stretches it a bit too far and thus also stretching the noisy part too much. Maybe do the final stretch in PS with a mask (Select-Colour range - Highlights)
  14. I bought a used EQ3 1.5 years ago as my first AP mount. I pair it with the 130PDS, a 60mm Guidescope and a EOS 1200D, so i push it to its limits 😁 With proper alligment (Thanks to sharpcap) i get a RMS between 0.95"-1.2" most of the times. This is also thanks to Multi star guiding. Without it, i got a RMS between 1.15" and 1.4". Everything is controlled through EQmod, so no Synscan. So i would say modern software plays a big role in enhancing cheap mounts. The rig is pretty sensitive to windy conditions though. I can somewhat compensate by putting some additional weight on the tripod. Maybe im just very lucky with my unit, since i never did any modification or maintenance like putting new grease on the gears. How often should that be done anyway?
  15. i also have problems with dithering. I just dont understand why it messes up my guiding so bad. It takes several minutes to get back to normal guiding. Since dithering is still important to me, i just manually dither: I use the coarse grid in PHD2 and choose one star and just move it randomly in one box of the grid every 10 minutes. This manual dithering costs me 30-45 sec max including settle time. So why is the automatic dithering so bad. I use ATP to give the dither command and tried different dither step. Nothing helped.
  16. Hi, really nice first try. I wonder why parts of the image look quite noisy while the lower part doesnt. Did you use flat frames?
  17. Thats one crispy sharp heart right there. Awesome details. I had the same blue greenish background when i processed my NBZ data. I would average the background and subtract it in PS or just use Siril (free) and do a background neutralization. I would love to see this picture with some RGB stars.
  18. i thinks so too, yes, but i dont think the difference in vignetting would be visible. I never shortened my tube and i dont have those star shapes. (also with the MPCC3)
  19. Thank you, thats too kind 🙂 I think it helped a lot, that it was really cold outside (around 3°C) During the summer my EOS 1200D becomes a noisy mess. I wonder if anyone of you added a scale on the focuser for exact rotations. Or any other solution that makes it easier to handle multi session imaging. I sometimes struggle to replicate the exact same camera orientation.
  20. M82, M81 & NGC3077 Equipment: 130PDS, EQ3 Pro, EOS 1200Da @ISO1600 4h with the L2-Filter, 4h with the NBZ Filter for HA Data
  21. If you made sure that the focusing is perfect, i would definitely recheck collimation. I dont know if its due to overexposure, but it doesnt look sharp. Spacing could also be an issue ofc. What CC and spacing did you use here? Do you have short exposures for comparison?
  22. Awesome, that reducer sounds like a good investment. How strong is the vignetting?
  23. Nice shot! I only have a HaRGB version (3+1 hours, so i'd rather call it Ha Version with RGB stars, since no nebulosity was added with the short rgb integration) Achieved with Eos 1200D and Astronomik Ha 12nm and L2 Clip Filter. I should devinitely invest in a duo band filter, to add more colors.
  24. I think you mixed something up here. The small blue star that is actually visible on this picture is the star HD 192579. The measurable orbital companion of cygni 31 got no seperate name as far as i looked up.
  25. First attempts on the Moon with my EOS 1200D First tried to capture with the video mode, but the result was a lot worse (Only Full HD) Then i tried making 100 pics and stacked the best 25 with Autostakkert. Happy with the result. If i find out how to lock the mirror on my cam, i would try 1000 frames
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