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About philming

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  1. Thanx but you can see it's not in stock at TS. It' sthe first place I checked. Aeroquest may be good, but I guess the prices are overkill for a dec worm... It's an EQ6 after all.
  2. Hi all! I dismounted my EQ6 with a friend so as to change all bearings and switch to Rowan Astronomy's belt system. I realized that the worm of my DEC axis wasnt in a good shape, it's slightly twisted, making t very hard to fine tune. So I'm desperately looking for a replacement worm (the silvery part that goes against the golden "crown" on the EQ6), I tried all french stores, the official importer, some shops in Germany and Hungary, even FLO, but couldnt find the part; At least, it's not going to be available before the end of April. (thanx to the CNY for part of it) So if anyone could tell m
  3. Hi all! I've had trouble with the alignment of any fw above 3.27. When performing a 1 star alignment, with a star near the object to shoot, I've always been off. So I reverted back to 3.27 that has always put the DSO in the dead middle of my DSLR's sensor. If anyone tests this new fw, can he-she report as to the precision of the gotos after alignment ? Be it 1 or 3 stars ? Thanx all !
  4. OK I found the solution all by myself. (I think). The home position was wrong. I had to change the altitude to my area, and it is now working OK. Dumb me...
  5. So nobody else has a clue on why it's acting this way ?
  6. I dont think SN relates to the actual mount you use (except if its az or eq). But for what its worth, I'm using an EQ6, with a GSO RC8, CCDT67, Lacerta OAG and a 450D dslr.
  7. Another thought : Could it be that SN doesn't move as it would with an equatorial mount by default ? Is there a way to set this up ? Cause I dont see any option anywhere setting up if the mount is equatorial or altaz...
  8. No the frame size fits the result of the acquisition. There really is a 90° framing mistake there that I dont understand. To be able to have the OAG and the DSLR's frame on the same FOV display, I chose a CCD in the equipment. The imaging areas are as specified on Canon's web site, so resolution and size is OK. I ticked the built in chip guide option, and gave the proper values as well. with the proper offset. Since I'm using a focal reducer (CCDT67), this has been integrated in the focal length as well (else the guide chip would be offset as well, and that I dont want to). Regardless, framin
  9. nobody uses this software ? And nobody noticed this problem ?
  10. Hi All There's something not working properly on this program. I dont get a correlation between my prep and the real thing in the sky. i.e. Tonight I want to shoot NGC6992. I'm starting from SN's "Home" position, with th camera straight. I slew to the object I want to shoot. OK it's badly framed, but i'll get to it later. I get back to the home position and see how I should orient my camera (the little square is my OAG's fov) But there is a 90° inversion between what I get for real in the sky nd what SN tells me. Here's a picture of the setup with a proper framing of NGC6992. So
  11. Hi all ! I'm digging up the thread. These long exhaustive lists dont come near what I got as alignment stars suggested when i do a 1 or 3 stars alignment procedure. These are the lists existing in the catalog, but not the one that are suggested to make the alignment ? Or is there a way to unlock those as alignment stars ? i.e. I am doing a simple one star alignment when shooting an abject. I choose as alignment star a star sually as close as possible to the shot object. So i.e. if I want to shoot M20, I would tend to choose Kause borealis as an alignment star. But it's just not available... S
  12. Hi all Ever since I took apart my GSO RC8, I'm not sure about the distance there should be between the secondary and primary mirror. This distance is set by driving the central screw further or closer to the plane where the branches are attached. See picture below. On a stock RC, there seem to be only 1 or 2mm on the "B" distance. Another friend did some tests and calculated there needed to be 74,5mm for the A distance. That's much more than what seem to be the stock distance. So the question is, what is the proper distance ? Can anyone please upload pictures of their front area on the RC to c
  13. Sorry can't edit yet.; The bahtinov was falling inside by 10-15mm on one side, not generally.
  14. OK Some news. 1 - It might have been a focus problem. I realized my Bahtinov mask wasn't straight when I put it on the opening of my RC8. It sort of felt inside ny about 10 or 15 mm. Since my tests were made on M63, very much up on the zenith I might have had a distortion in the spikes due to that ? 2 - Comparing my GSO RC8 with the one of a friend's I realized the secondary mirror cage was two far towards the primary. I must have mounted it wrong when I cleaned my mirrors a while back. I didnt have a chance to do any more tests yet, I'm waiting for a clear sky and some free time for this... R
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