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mackiedlm

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Posts posted by mackiedlm

  1. 5 hours ago, michael8554 said:

    Hi David

    The Coma is worse on the left side suggesting tilt, which is surprising as you have good screwed connections for the FR, Meade Connector, and DSLR. 

    But there is overall Coma, have you got the FR 105mm from the DSLR sensor? 

    Canons have 44mm back focus, plus 10 or 11mm for the T2 Adapter, so you need 60mm extension,  30mm is incorrect. 

    A stacked image is not best for examining star shapes, a single sub, stretched if too dim, is best. 

    Michael 

    Thanks for that Michael. i'l get the ruler out tonight and see what i have got.

  2. 51 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

    Could be collimation and spacing although the spacing is pretty forgiving with the .63 f/r, how have you got the camera connected ?

    The DSLR sensor is quite large so will aggravate any problems in the corners, I use an Atik314L on mine with reducer and also bin 2X2 to get a more sensible image scale.

    The wedge also benefits from a 3D balancing system as I find mine needs different balancing depending on whereabouts it's imaging.

    Dave

    Thanks Dave.

    The camera is attached to the FR with the Meade variable ccd connector using one extension (I think its 30mm)

    I had expected to have some problems in the corners but this is coming way in - probably nearly half way.

    rgds

     

    David

     

     

  3. So, despite getting my new short and fast refractor and NEQ6, I have spent some time trying to get my venerable old 8" LX200 GPS to take an image longer than 20s. I've put it on a wedge, done the Petersons Bucks Gears upgrade and added guiding through a guide scope. I got my first image from the set up on Sunday and I think while its promising there are still a few issues I need to resolve. Its noisy and I need to start dithering to get rid of some of the banding. I think the guiding was not awful (total RMS around 1.2" most of the time) but I know I can improve on that.

    The biggest problem is what looks to me like horrible field curvature and coma. (Is that what I'm seeing or is it something else) I have a Meade 6.3 FR/FF in place and had really hoped it would be better but I'd like to hear your thoughts. Is this is good as I'm going to get in terms of flattening, or can I adjust (spacing for example) or do I need to tighten up my colimation. Any thoughts anyone?

    Anyway, looking for advice.

    8" LX200GPS f/6.3 FR/FF, wedged LX200 mount
    EOS 1100D (un moded)
    Guided in PHD2, Processed APP (this is not a full process - a very slight crop to remove some ragged edges and a quick run through APP- I think it could be improved but I'm not sure its worth the effort)
    49 X 180s ISO800

    12074883_hamburger_with_flats-firstquickp.thumb.png.87ed3ba6389a5d353a3e821af7d2f361.png

     

    So, thanks for looking and any suggestions or advice you can give (preferably not "stay with the 80ED and stick that hulk in a dumpster". I'm Scottish and therefore am genetically programmed to not throw things away! :lol: )

    David

  4. This is a reprocess (and heavy crop) of the data from the image I posted yesterday.

    This has been redone in Startools following advice from Ivo Jager (the software developer) and I have to say I am much happier with this one.

    SW Evostar 80ED, SW 0.85FR/FF
    NEQ6
    Modded EOS1100D
    Guided with SW Evoguide 50ED ZWO ASI120mm Mini
    91 X240s Iso 800

    173405072_M81-M82StartToolsDLMafterISandsatp.thumb.png.9da3efd198597eb059b07cfe178be200.png

    • Like 5
  5. there seems to be a run of these at the moment.

    My (not terribly good) effort. I really really struggled processing this one and honestly I'm a bit dissapointed with it, Could not get decent colours in Bode.

    But its only my second image with my new rig so it will do for the moment.

    SW 80ED, SW 0.85FR/FF
    NEQ6
    Modded EOS1100D
    Guided with SW Evoguide 50ED ZWO ASI120mm Mini
    91 X240s Iso 800

    1248613681_Bodes_from_APP_E-noMBB-mod-NoStrgb4final.thumb.png.3a06f80782cedf5a99cdda51d0732a59.png

     

    • Like 6
  6. 4 minutes ago, Stargazer33 said:

    It could still be droop. Either in the focus tube, DSLRs are heavy, or the camera itself if you are using a nosepiece. Also it is not unheard of for the sensor to be tilted in the camera.

    Have you tried rotating the camera and seeing if the corner most affected moves?

    Thanks Bryan, no i've not done that but its a good suggestion. On the list of things for next time out.

  7. 52 minutes ago, Adreneline said:

    One problem I had with the ED80DS and FR was that I never sure that once the FR was tightened into the focusser that it remained concentric - it always seemed to droop a little especially with the added weight of the camera, etc. I solved the problem by fitting a Baader Click-Lock - which rates as one the best things I've ever spent money on in this hobby. Apologies if you already have one fitted to your OTA. Clearly spacing is important as well but that shouldn't be an issue with the correct EoS adapter.

    Adrian

    Thanks Adrian, but I'm a little confused.

    As it set just now, the FR screws straight onto the focuser, it does not have a 2" nosepiece. So unless I'm totally missing something that click-lock would only work if i had this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-adapter-for-sky-watcher-focal-reducers.html attached to the FR?

    But I appreciate the advice. And there was me thinking that after the mount, scope, guide camera, guide scope etc my expenditure was done for a while. 🤣. Not in the AP world!

     

    rgds

     

    David.

  8. So, my first real night out with my new rig and first ever guided image.

    the Rosette was getting low but since I've never captured it before I wanted to give it a try. So a bit short on time i think at 41 X 180s

    SW 80ED, SW 0.85FR/FF
    NEQ6
    Modded EOS1100D
    Guided with SW Evoguide 50ED ZWO ASI120mm Mini
    41 X180s Iso 800

    PA Sharpcap, Guided PHD2, processed APP and PS

    My first ever guided image so I think the guiding could be better RMS around 1.0" most of the time.

    However I'm not sure about the misshapen stars near the bottom left, and elsewhere. I'm thinking spacing of the FR but would appreciate any pointers. I also think the focus is a bit off - waiting for a Bahtinov to arrive.

    Critiques and suggestions for improvement please.

    596499571_rosette20200315finalp.thumb.png.a6d4a0db3535d5eae1b118a6e7812cbf.png

    • Like 6
  9. Just wanted to put out there that FLO must be one of the very best online suppliers - not just in Astro but overall.

    In the last 2-3 months I have been asking for advice and assistance, purchased a good few items and had to return some (not for any FLO caused issue). The team there have been incredibly responsive, helpful and simply a pleasure to deal with.

    If only other online suppliers were half as good.

    Well done folks - you are just brilliant!

    David Mackie

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  10. At last a couple of clear nights so tried the California nebula - first time imaging this.

    The HA was done on the second light and the seeing/clarity was much worse than the first night so I dont think its as good as it could be

    Only my second attempt at HaRGB and still learning

    Anyway

    EOS 1100d (Ha Mod)

    Super Takumar 200mm f4
    Skywatcher Star Adventurer
    RGB 61 X 180s ISO 1600
    Ha (astronomik 12nm clip in) 50 X 210s ISO 1600
    Around 40 darks, flats and dark flats for each session
    Stacked in APP processed in Photoshop

    850743034_California_r6flatp.thumb.png.4f1592347f647e0694e83248ecf380d4.png

    Suggestions for improvement greatly appreciated

    • Like 8
  11. These are really nice. I've been playing with Starnet++ too but can't really make my mind up about it. 

    I love your Melotte 15 thing. Your right it's easy to forget the sizes and distances involved when you are staring at the computer screen for hours

     

  12. 10 minutes ago, Whistlin Bob said:

    I really like that- in particular that you've managed not to blow out the brighter parts too much- presumably with the different exposure lengths. I also really like the star colours.

    It's good fun this vintage lens business- I've been using an f4 Jupiter 135 and an f4.5 Tair 300 this year and really pleased with both- total spend £65 (so long as you ignore the filters, mount, camera, software etc etc!!!). They don't stand up to pixel peeping, but that doesn't bother me. Looking at this I'm wondering if I 'need' a 200 as well!

    2 thoughts I did have:

    - Are you sigma clipping when you stack? If so, that should sort out any pixels affected by satellite and aircraft trails without needing to reject whole frames. Though obvs keep the Santa one 😁

    - There's a lot of hydrogen alpha in this area- if you have the option to get your camera modded I think you'll pick up quite a bit of red cloud around M42 in this area.

    Thanks for that Bob. 

    Yes I'm really delighted with this one. I have a 135mm pentacon which is good though a bit of CA which can be a pain and a 50mm f1.8 Petacon which is really good.

    I use Astro Pixel Processor for my stacking and it has a sigma clip option which I use most of the time. As it was first light with this lens and the individual frames were looking quite good I opted to be brutal on rejections this time, really wanted to give the lens it's best shot.

    I actually have a second EOS 1100D which is Ha modded.  And I'm thinking to get more frames of this image with that and also my Ha filter and see what we can get from that.

     Thanks again

    David

    • Like 1
  13. Christmas eve brought my first clear night in almost a month so, despite the family's protestations I was out trying out a new (to me but manufactured mid 70's) 200mm lens (€25 off e-bay so why not!)

    I'm really pleased with the lens though more time on target and less rejects for satellite and other trails would have helped.

    Anyway,

    20X5s 30X60s 40X90s all ISO800
    Canon 1100D (un modded)
    Super Takumar 200mm f/4 vintage lens (stopped down to 5.6 with rings)
    Staradventurer mount

    375469950_M42-Xmassevefinalpl.thumb.png.6700b3c123361b1cd64f5b2d25c17782.png
    Comments or suggestions for improvement? (I know about the dust bunny right of top centre - it landed on the lens between imaging and flats the next morning - tried to take it out in Photoshop but it was making it worse!)

    As I say, lots of rejects for satellites but this one was particularly galling;

    1090916211_M42Xmasseverejectframe.thumb.jpg.d97f67192835fdb589e01cd004f7df6b.jpg

    🤣

    Happy new year to you all!

    • Like 8
    • Haha 6
  14. my M31, taken with a vintage 135mm lens.

    I'm not sure whats causing the stars on the right to be so red - lens or filter probably

    Canon 1100D Ha mod

    Pentacon 135mm at F/4
    StarAdventurer mount
    20 X 180s Iso800 + 52 X 180s iso 1600
    Astronomik CLS filter
    APP/ Photoshop

    1493756762_m31_comb-finalp.thumb.png.409fce6ee53cf8b970cdb5abb8d0552c.png

    • Like 6
  15. This is a reprocess of an image I already posted.

    This time using Scot Rosens DSLR LLRGB process (my first effort with that) to try to pull out the faint nebulosity. I think I've probably over done it a bit but i think it is still amazing to see how much can be pulled out of even mediocre data.

    EOS1100D (unmodded), Skywatcer Star Adventurer mount
    Vintage Pentacon 135mm lens
    30x 90s @ISO800, 21X 90s ISO1600, 30X 120s ISO800 (total 2hrs 15mins)
    Around 30 flats, darks, dark flats and 80 bias for each set of lights

    1782955834_M45_scottrosenfirstLRGB12Finalp.thumb.png.60f927103cae22354b64dac699a6fac7.png

     

    This is the first version for comparison

    1524161056_M45_APP_r1_psfinalp.thumb.png.d250bbdc2f435157ca37318fb5a4f017.png

     

    I will probably go back to it again so any suggestions for improvement would be appreciated.

    • Like 2
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