-Joe_

After spending almost a year getting any sort of image out of my Solar Scout (needed a UV/IR filter), spent today getting this:

I'm quite pleased with that. I honestly didnt expect to be getting proms or other events captured so soon).

I left the stacking artifacts in, as I like the look .. YMMV

1000 frames, DSS, ASI290mm, ADC, Astronomik UV/IR L1 filter.
Used Autostakkert and ImgPPG, then Gimp for colour (with tips from @michael.h.f.wilkinson's sticky here). 

So does everyone with one of these use an IR/UV filter, and wouldn’t even think to not use one... hence no “and don’t forget your IRUV filter”, or is there an issue with certain scopes and/or cameras?

2 hours ago, simmo39 said:

Hi . Im thinking about either getting a Daystar solar scoutor a lunt 50. Do you think the Scout is a good choise and also what size filter did you use? The image looks great to me.

I have limited experience, but the scout seems good now I have the correct filter. The only thing I'm not too sure is the focus mechanism - which done by twisting the tube. I used a 1.25" filter next to the camera

Joe

Thanks, @Dflyboy,

Today I got chance to fit the filter and it made night and day difference. This was with my ASI1600mm, not a great image but a start:

9 hours ago, Dflyboy said:

Ok all, Great news, problem solved.  I got the Astronomik L1 UV/IR cut filter for it, and it cleaned everything right up.  Tried it both in the solar scout with the L1 filter in front of the camera, and also took the quark off and put it on my big scope, the stellarvue sva130t with the L1 filter in front of the quark, and both worked great.

Thanks for that info - I've just ordered one and we'll see if I get  anywhere.

22 hours ago, Rocket Stars said:

I have read up a little. Well, one should have done that to begin with..  

I have seen recommendations about using a ir/uv cut filter, and a tilt adaptor for the camera. 

I assume the ir/cut is additional to the one that is in the sensor window? 

Anyone with real experience that it is needed from start? 

 

 

Using the scout with my 1600mm, i needed a tilt adapter to get rid of newtons rings.
I havent been able to get a clear image at all though, and have just been recommended the IR/UV cut filter - I've ordered one this morning to see.

My advice would be to put the camera in the scope and see what you get...

4 minutes ago, andrew s said:

Can you try it visually? 

Regards Andrew 

 

I tried visually, could see a reasonable sharp red disc, no features. My eyes aren’t too good so not absolutely sure on the level detail I’d be able to see..

I’ve got a daystar solar scout 60DS, attached to a nexstar mount, with a 290mm camera. Then usb to Mac book pro running firecapture

Thanks, I’ve tried both a 1600mm and a 290mm. Both at unity gain and both 8 or 16 bit, with the histogram 80-90% filled, no clipping.

Cant seem to get the focus any tighter, and spent yesterday going through each setting on the tuning knob, waiting for green, then trying focus again.

Question: how bad does seeing and transparency affect the image? Are there days when you can see just this? 

I’ve run out of things to try now, and am concerned I have a duff unit.

Additional info:

For the image, gain was 110, exposure 7ms

Ive also tried an eyepiece and can see a red disc, the edges sharp, but cant make out any features (my eyes arent too good so not sure )

Hi all,

Still having problems getting anything out of my solar telescope:

I can seem to focus, but just get a featureless disc (see below). I know the sun is dormant right now but expected to see something more than this.

I have tried changing the power adapter (even using the original with a 110-220 converter) and changing the camera.

Am I expecting too much and this is just the bad seeing/haze? Is it my focus that needs to be better?

The image below is just a single frame, from firecapture, using a 290mm attached to the telescope.

PS. Additional points for telling me what the thumb screw is for next to the bullet finder...  

https://indilib.org/forum/ekos/3111-re-kstars-icon-missing-in-my-lxde-environment.html?start=0

I had a similar problem when building it once.... then it was due to a missing icon/image package.. not sure if that’s any help or not...

Here’s a tutorial from the kstars developer on using a Canon..

It should work through KStars/Ekos (which uses INDI)

Dont have a Dslr but procedure should be roughly: start kstars, go to ekos, setup your profile, and choose the correct driver for your camera there.

ekos then deals with operating everything, including the Dslr in th eCamera tab

(that’s a very rough/quick guide)

15 hours ago, Rusted said:

My apologies if this all sounds very patronizing. I am a recent convert to H-a solar imaging so it is all still fresh for me too.

No need, it's very useful to confirm what I'm doing as I start... 

1 minute ago, Peter Drew said:

If you are using a monochrome camera, a grey featureless disc is pretty much all that is visible at the moment!. Check out the daily GONG  Solar images, you should be able to match them on a good day.    😀

Yeah, I realise I'm probably doing this at the worst time...

Yes, its the 1600mm. Seems to be ok for getting in focus (although hard to judge with no detail, but i can move past the focus point no problem)

So next question was, as you say, the tuner - how critical is that? is it a case of working your way through 1 click at a time and eventually the details will pop out?

I've just got hold of one of these, and trying to get some images through it. Does anyone know if I need to set the camera at a certain back focus position?

I just get a grey featureless disc, and want to eliminate that question...

cheers

joe

Once you have eqmod, you can start plate solving. No alignment (just PA)... just capture and slew... even load a photo from the internet, plate solve and slew.

ive never plugged my synscan handset in..

I think pretty much any scope requires all this adding ... 

A minimum setup for you might be:

--

72ED

2" nosepiece 

Extension tube

Canon adapter

Camera

--

I don't actually know if you'd need an extension tube (I've read somewhere that the canon has 46mm from chip to front  - perhaps someone can confirm), but they are cheapish.. 

With a flattener it looks like:

--

72ED

x0.85 flattener

Canon adapter (looks like this is the correct size to get the 55mm backfocus - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/skywatcher-dslr-m48-ring-adapter.html)

Camera

--

I've spent ages trying to work this all out over the last few months and hear what you are saying about why dont they just come with everything. I think there are just too many ways they can be used, and once you have one set you wont need it again for the next scope, and the one after that... 
 

Of course - i'm still new to this, so i may be wrong somewhere or everywhere... ;o)

1 hour ago, Simon Dunsmore said:

Hi, 

I'm considering getting a Skywatcher Evostar 72ED for deep sky imaging. I'm new to astrophotography although I have been using a 200pds on an EQ5 for visual for some time. I plan to use the 72ED with my Canon 1000d. I've read loads of reviews on the scope and I'm a little confused. 

I'd really appreciate some help with the following:

1. Do I need to add a 2inch adapter to take my cannon? 

2. Will I be able achieve focus or do I need another adapter 

3.is there a dedicated or recommend field flatner for the 72ED and if so how will this effect the set up. 

In short, before I buy the scope I need to calculate what else I'll need to make it work 

Finally, with a budget of around £250 is there a good alternative. Ive considered the Skywatcher 102, but was concerned about chromatic aberration. 

Thanks for your help 

Kind regards 

Simon 

I started on a 72ed a few months ago. To answer your questions:

1. Yes you will need some form of adapter - can’t advise the correct one as I used a cmos.

2. You will probably need some form of extension tube to allow the camera to sit far enough back that it can focus in the range of the focusser

3. There is a skywatcher reducer/flattener, and also the OVL flattener. The skywatcher fits directly. Both will then mean you have to put the camera sensor as specified distance (backfocus) from the flattener. This is 55mm for the skywatcher, not sure for the OVL. You use the various extension tubes to get the required distance.

I think for the OVL you might also need an adapter to convert the thread from the 72ed to whatever the the OVL is.

Flattener:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/ovl-field-flattener.html

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/skywatcher-85x-reducerflattener-for-evostar-72ed-pro.html

Hope this helps...

Thinking of getting into solar imaging, Ha in particular, and looking at the daystar solar scout as price and reviews seem good.

I already have an alt/az mount I can use, and I  assume I can use my ASI1600mm camera in the short term at least. Anything else I need to consider?

Extension/backfocus, other filters, etc?

If I want to do close ups, do I need to get a camera with a smaller sensor, and/or barlows? 

Just trying to work out what a full setup will need to be?

cheers 

joe

13 hours ago, Starwiz said:

 

Sorry, didn't mean to 'rub it in,' so to speak.

Back in the UK, I used to enjoy summer astro-imaging more than the winter even though the results were better in the winter, but out here is the best of both worlds, so I can sit outside in a t-shirt and play with the kit, and have a cold beer to keep me chilled.

John

And that isn’t rubbing it in? 🐵

2 hours ago, Starwiz said:

Long clear nights too - almost seven hours of astro-darkness at this time of year. 😎

I'm very jealous... enjoy it!