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Posts posted by LeeRich

  1. 14 hours ago, Demonperformer said:

    Recycling at its best.

    Can't beat a bit of recycling lol I will adopt this idea when I get a little frac to piggy back on top but I may use alloy as this bar may need to be wider of sorts and maybe sculpted out to match my OTA but I will be sure to post pics once designed and fabricated.

    Thanks to all who looked in on this little metal mod job 

    Clear skies all.

  2. 22 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

    Did I post a picture of mine in one of your threads ?

    I do believe you did somewhere Dave, i will most certainly be looking into it as i appreciate just weights on the bottom of the OTA unless matched with the piggypack gear

    probably wont suffice so i may still have some balance to fine tune but this is a start :D

  3. Yer i see your point Dave but im a big strong lad and this is a one time operation i hope lol so even if i need an extra hand off the missus to fire the bolt in its

    not too much of a problem, now if i was taking the 10" out instead of my 8" grab and go in to the field things may be different and your peg system would be

    definitely adapted to my bigger scope ;)

    • Like 1

  4. Well, i sort of did as i already owned the Meade weight system for my 8" LX90 but i was dammed if i was gunna pay it again for my 10" lol ?

    So, while fabricating my bespoke wedge project i cut a strip of 3mm steel bar, painted it up and fitted tonight. Even with the heaviest of my 

    ep's (ES 40mm 2" 68deg) i only needed the middle weight on which is encouraging as i plan to EQ this scope and piggy back a little frac and as i have

    since found out from Meade that the max payload including everything other then the OTA is 12lbs i now feel confident i will be well inside this limit.

    And to be honest i would rather be WELL inside it rather then near it just for my own piece of mind regarding the longevity of my scopes drives.

    I tapped the holes where the original bar locates so i can remove it and put it back on the 8" if needed leaving the extension bar on the 10" ?

    Thanks for looking in.








    • Like 4

  5. 3 hours ago, Davey-T said:

    are you using just the centre bolt to hold the base ?

    Thanks Dave. I did consider using a second plate to bolt perminantly to the scope base with a peg like you mention here but then thinking about it I decided not to for 2 reasons.

    1. I will be using 2 rubber stoppers at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock to stop the base slipping while I hold a fork arm and screw up the UNC bolt with my other hand. As mine will be perminant this is really a one time operation so didn't warrant all the extra work.

    2. The shorter one I'm building for a pal will adopt this same system. I thought this best as he will be putting his on and off his wedge everytime he sets up so having a base plate with a peg on it would hinder it sitting flat when not in use so as he has the 8" LX90 it's quite light to use this method each time ?

    Of course it still needs a practical test run but hopefully my idea is these rubber stoppers bolted at the positions aforementioned on the angled scope plate should let the base of the LX90 just sit in place nicely leaving one hand to hold a fork arm to prevent the scope falling back and the other to hand screw the bolt in ??

    Also, the LX90 has a different base to your beastie Dave and fixing 3 other bolts to it is more work that I think in this instance isn't worth it. I hope lol

    • Like 2

  6. 2 hours ago, JamesF said:

    Some beautifully tidy welding work there.  I wish I could do it that well :)


    I'm old school James, I'm trained and good to go with stick, mig and gas but never tried tig so this beautiful tig job is all my mates doing at MDP fab, I will pass on your kind comment ?

    Little bit of trivia for anyone...1" of tig weld on 6mm plate can hold 1 tonne of weight ? strong stuff eh. Probably over did it for this little project. Full seam weld on top and 1" on 1" off welds underneath.

  7. 6 hours ago, Adam J said:

    it is expensive...but then my obsy is small. 

    However, its also much better than the kind of tiles you linked previously as those tend to be more foam than rubber and are not very hardy. 

    Hi Adam, i also looked at some good quality matts but in the end I got some of the cheaper foam/rubber ones you mention off fleabay and to be honest I have been in and out of my obsy countless times and they show zero sign of wear so I'm glad i didn't spend that extra now, plus my scope area is 8'x8' so would of needed a small mortgage lol ?

    • Like 1

  8. They are a little beast arent they ?

    After a long session in my obsy the FG walls are all but dripping but once packed up and shut down the dehumid goes on and in litteraly 20mins the whole dome is dry. It gets 99RH down to 60RH in just over an hour on full blast (300watts) I then switch to tick over and check it in the morn to turn it off. I run mine about once a week or so inbetween observing sessions just to help keep RH to around 50, a good level for electronics to live it.... in my opinion of course ?

    Glad you got sorted iwols. 

    Clear skies and drier walls lol

  9. That's the problem, you just can't predict if your building will suffer or not so In hindsight it's probably a good thing you didn't plan for vents but as we have mentioned, it's an easy fix. Whichever route you take with vents if indeed you do I am sure it will look in keeping with your already spectacular looking project ?

    • Thanks 1

  10. Come in this size too.


    As you have cavity walls you could make a simple open ended box and have a vent inside and out, wouldnt particularly achieve anything except look prettier on the inside. I would have two low down on the side of the prevailing wind and then two more higher up near the top on the opposite side ? if poss. Means cutting holes now but this is where planning plays a big part, but it's an easy fix.

  11. These are from screwfix but easily available at most diy outlets. They have a fly mesh in them and the vanes point down, I ran a bead of mastic along the inside top edge before screwing down so water can't get behind. Think they were a pound each? In the torrential rain a while back these little things didn't let a single drop in so do the job brilliantly. You could get bigger ones and ones that open and close. I only have them in my dome side as I don't need ventilation in my warm room ?


  12. 1 minute ago, LightBucket said:

    it’s just a shed with plenty of air gaps, no fancy lining inside or waterproof membrane on the frame just a bog standard garden shed with all the air gaps that come with. £200 shed... :) 

    Lol I too didn't buy into all that membrane and lining route. I see the OP has used kingspan which in my opinion was the right move as rock/glass wools are notorious for internal mildew rot but I have to agree with you that ultimately air flow is a great idea and a must for sure but for me, my situation is a little different as I have both fibreglass and a heated warm room so a dehumid was a safe and easy fix addition above all else.


    • Like 2

  13. 21 minutes ago, LightBucket said:

    It is not impossible at all, if the design is right.

    I think if you elaborate on what this "right design" is you will be saving everyone a headache ?

    Just out of interest what are your daily RH levels ? I keep mine at around a constant RH50 to protect my electronics longevity. As condensation is an obvious thing to see humidity isnt and that's the tech killer, maybe not today or tomorrow but circuit boards and fluctuating moisture don't mix well and will eventually fail.

    Another factor to consider when it comes to all things of a moist nature is location.

    I live not too far from the sea so my air will most likely be more susceptible to high levels of humidity perhaps ? Just a thought, where other locations could be naturally drier ? ??

    • Like 1

  14. 42 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

    I am only guessing here but I do tend to think trying to keep moisture out is almost impossible in a wooden shed without a dehumidifier, but as LightBucket says air flow to stop condensation is the key.

    Correct, it is impossible.

    Having air flow isn't the definitive answer, my pulsar dome has a full perimeter gap that air blows in from and the observing slit also has loads of flow along with added lower floor vents for up flow yet condensation is a problem for fibreglass so for me a dehumid was the answer. Personally if you have electronics in an outside building with or without air flow then moisture will always be present, another reason a dehumid is the answer, if you don't house tech gear then i agree despite how you "build it properly" then good air flow will suffice.

    Like everything there is no one rule for all. 

    That said, I'm not saying a dehumid is the definitive answer but for me, my gear, my obsy and the way I built it, then it is ? ? ?

    I guess the question you need to ask yourself Spaced Out is will you be leaving electronics in this warm room 24/7 ? If so then you need to find a way of keeping the RH at a safe level, if not then vents are your friend ?

    • Like 1

  15. 3 hours ago, Hallingskies said:

     I think Pulsar also do different colours if the stark white is a problem.

    You're spot on pal, only issue with coloured fibreglass is anything other the white with lose it's vibrancy in direct sun light and go off colour in time where as white is much more forgiving and will only show signs of dulling over time really. Having said that if you have the means or a friendly local fibreglass company near by then recoating is an easy job. ?

  16. 16 minutes ago, DaveS said:

    The Pulsar domes also have heavy duty hooks / clamps available to stop the wind or ne'er-do-wells from lifting it off.

    True enough Dave. Great for potential thieves, added confidence in hurricane winds BUT an absolute nightmare for the fingers in the dark. This is the only reason I envy you peeps with automated domes because I'm surprised you can't here my crys where ever you live when I am rotating mine and run my fingers under these "bleeding' brackets and i use that word literally because I nearly always take some bark off when observing lol  ? ??

    Note to self, fit some handles ?

    • Like 2
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