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LeeRich

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About LeeRich

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    Star Forming

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    England
  1. Well spotted Kev, I got way too excited looking at the sheen Steve regained and didn't read the last bit ? thank you ?
  2. I shall keep this link for future reference. Thanks and well done on a fabulous restoration job ?
  3. Can't beat a bit of recycling lol I will adopt this idea when I get a little frac to piggy back on top but I may use alloy as this bar may need to be wider of sorts and maybe sculpted out to match my OTA but I will be sure to post pics once designed and fabricated. Thanks to all who looked in on this little metal mod job Clear skies all.
  4. As a newbie to AP it suprises me that these little fracs get astonishing images. It's defo a factor to consider when weight limit is an issue for scopes like mine when piggy backed ?
  5. I do believe you did somewhere Dave, i will most certainly be looking into it as i appreciate just weights on the bottom of the OTA unless matched with the piggypack gear probably wont suffice so i may still have some balance to fine tune but this is a start
  6. Yer i see your point Dave but im a big strong lad and this is a one time operation i hope lol so even if i need an extra hand off the missus to fire the bolt in its not too much of a problem, now if i was taking the 10" out instead of my 8" grab and go in to the field things may be different and your peg system would be definitely adapted to my bigger scope
  7. Well, i sort of did as i already owned the Meade weight system for my 8" LX90 but i was dammed if i was gunna pay it again for my 10" lol ? So, while fabricating my bespoke wedge project i cut a strip of 3mm steel bar, painted it up and fitted tonight. Even with the heaviest of my ep's (ES 40mm 2" 68deg) i only needed the middle weight on which is encouraging as i plan to EQ this scope and piggy back a little frac and as i have since found out from Meade that the max payload including everything other then the OTA is 12lbs i now feel confident i will be well inside this limit. And to be honest i would rather be WELL inside it rather then near it just for my own piece of mind regarding the longevity of my scopes drives. I tapped the holes where the original bar locates so i can remove it and put it back on the 8" if needed leaving the extension bar on the 10" ? Thanks for looking in. Lee.
  8. @steppenwolf Cheers Steve, I have some reading ahead. ?? #excited
  9. Thanks Dave. I did consider using a second plate to bolt perminantly to the scope base with a peg like you mention here but then thinking about it I decided not to for 2 reasons. 1. I will be using 2 rubber stoppers at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock to stop the base slipping while I hold a fork arm and screw up the UNC bolt with my other hand. As mine will be perminant this is really a one time operation so didn't warrant all the extra work. 2. The shorter one I'm building for a pal will adopt this same system. I thought this best as he will be putting his on and off his wedge everytime he sets up so having a base plate with a peg on it would hinder it sitting flat when not in use so as he has the 8" LX90 it's quite light to use this method each time ? Of course it still needs a practical test run but hopefully my idea is these rubber stoppers bolted at the positions aforementioned on the angled scope plate should let the base of the LX90 just sit in place nicely leaving one hand to hold a fork arm to prevent the scope falling back and the other to hand screw the bolt in ?? Also, the LX90 has a different base to your beastie Dave and fixing 3 other bolts to it is more work that I think in this instance isn't worth it. I hope lol
  10. I'm old school James, I'm trained and good to go with stick, mig and gas but never tried tig so this beautiful tig job is all my mates doing at MDP fab, I will pass on your kind comment ? Little bit of trivia for anyone...1" of tig weld on 6mm plate can hold 1 tonne of weight ? strong stuff eh. Probably over did it for this little project. Full seam weld on top and 1" on 1" off welds underneath.
  11. Bit more done on the big one this morn but as it's school holidays here I have to spend the rest of thus week with my little girl so completion will be next week now. Cheers for looking in ? Lee.
  12. Hi Adam, i also looked at some good quality matts but in the end I got some of the cheaper foam/rubber ones you mention off fleabay and to be honest I have been in and out of my obsy countless times and they show zero sign of wear so I'm glad i didn't spend that extra now, plus my scope area is 8'x8' so would of needed a small mortgage lol ?
  13. They are a little beast arent they ? After a long session in my obsy the FG walls are all but dripping but once packed up and shut down the dehumid goes on and in litteraly 20mins the whole dome is dry. It gets 99RH down to 60RH in just over an hour on full blast (300watts) I then switch to tick over and check it in the morn to turn it off. I run mine about once a week or so inbetween observing sessions just to help keep RH to around 50, a good level for electronics to live it.... in my opinion of course ? Glad you got sorted iwols. Clear skies and drier walls lol
  14. That's the problem, you just can't predict if your building will suffer or not so In hindsight it's probably a good thing you didn't plan for vents but as we have mentioned, it's an easy fix. Whichever route you take with vents if indeed you do I am sure it will look in keeping with your already spectacular looking project ?
  15. Come in this size too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/map-vent-fixed-louvre-vent-with-flyscreen-white-229-x-229mm/8886d As you have cavity walls you could make a simple open ended box and have a vent inside and out, wouldnt particularly achieve anything except look prettier on the inside. I would have two low down on the side of the prevailing wind and then two more higher up near the top on the opposite side ? if poss. Means cutting holes now but this is where planning plays a big part, but it's an easy fix.
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