Rustang

Looks great, I'm surprised you managed 20 sec subs without tracking, that's pretty good going. I struggled with 3 a few weeks ago when having a stab! 

56 minutes ago, tomato said:

Looks like a pretty unanimous response, if you have an reasonable chance of clear skies I would go for it. It’s bad enough to miss a clear night in the UK, never mind an opportunity to be under a darker sky.

Just one caveat, will the moon still take the edge off your darker sky?

Possibly but somethings better than nothing 😊

The weather has already changed down that way and looking rather cloudy so not a loss for tonight, hopefully it stays clear at home 🤞

Well I might have found a comprise. Image from home tonight, leave for Somerset very early tomorrow morning so probably not long after my imaging session. Take visual scope to Somerset and possibly my astro modified Canon and camera mount to have a pop at the milky way although probably only very short subs unless someone can lend me their star adventurer! 😁 If I change my mind at least I can chuck the rest in the car before we leave as it will all be out ready to go. 

Thanks guys, its only that there's a lot of gear to take for imaging so will consider how much of a faff it will be plus how safe the scope will be in the car but to miss out on Bortel 4 skies would be a shame.

I was finally able to set up my new scope yesterday and get it balanced etc ready for a clear night. Its predicted to be clear at home for the next two nights but we are heading down to the in laws in Somerset later today for the long weekend, typical! 🙁  

However its also supposed to be clear for the next 3 nights down that way and I have access to a bortle 4 garden! So do I lug all of my gear down that way to hopefully capture some data for 3 potential nights in a row!?

4 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

No.

On Mono+Filters - you untick checkbox on FITS files tab, and you don't care for the rest of the settings.

Just remember to stack each color to its own stack with appropriate calibration files.

Thanks, I thought I might of had it wrong! 👍

13 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

No.

Super pixel mode takes group of 2x2 pixels that comprises one bayer matrix element and forms single pixel with RGB values - taking R from R pixel of bayer element, B from B pixel and G from average of two G pixels.

Resulting image has half vertical and horizontal resolution but there are no interpolated pixels (regular debayering interpolates missing pixel values).

Are the DSS settings you mentioned above the same for a mono CCD!? Keep the monochrome 16bit fits ticked? and select 'create super pixels...' at the bottom!?

48 minutes ago, geeklee said:

Absolutely 👍.  I recently put together a light weight rig I hoped to run my Samyang 135 on - an AZGTI with EQ wedge and ASIAIR pro.  As always, it wasn't exactly simple, nor inexpensive 🙄 and the jury is still out on the performance.  I didn't want another full size mount - even a "light" one like a CEM26/28 where you still have considerable counterweight and tripod.  The only night I've had a chance to use both rigs at the same time was still a bit of a pain getting each fully setup and imaging... but was a great feeling when they got separate data sets ☺️ - felt like free data...😉 (couldn't be further from the truth ... it was expensive data! 😅)

Yeah expensive enough just setting one up so I'm probably under estimating setting up a second/dual rig and as you say its probably just going to be double the hassle. Oh to have endless funds then I could just do exactly what I would love to be able to do... ... goes off dreaming!.......... 😊

What is the brief run down of how the ASIAIR and mini computer work in sink with a main laptop!? 

15 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

My experiences are contradictory. This just worked like a charm from the off.

Two Tak FSQ106N scopes, one with Cassady T-Gad tilt pan adjuster, Mesu 200 mount, Atik 11000 mono CCDs, working at 3.5 arcsecs per pixel.

When we switched to two TEC 140s working at around an arcsec per pixel we were plagued by slight trailing on the 'slave' scope (the unguided one.)

Olly

 

 

 

 

Yeah thanks Olly, just rub it in! 😉😁

10 minutes ago, geeklee said:

Depending on your goals.. if you had a camera and fast lens you could use a Raspberry Pi or ASIAIR Pro (v1 or Pro) and just use them to focus and snap images - throwing away the ones where your main camera might be dithering etc.  This likely works better if your main camera is taking long exposures so your fast lens combo can snap many more subs in the time so throwing away less  @Adreneline has tried something like this approach with a Samyang 135.

For full rigs you'd likely need just what Tristan suggests!

My goals are to take the most amazing photos! 😄 With there being so little clear nights its just a consideration to make the most of the ones we get so to capture more of something would be great. In terms of what I would like to achieve I'm not 100% sure yet, maybe a colour version of the target while I'm capturing mono, or to capture two sets of data at one time, i.e Ha and OIII. Both goals would be nice but have their own considerations and costs. Its something to mull over.

10 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

Something like the SW Guidescope mount for aligning equipment with main scope

Or side-by-side mount if you prefer.

If either of these are what you were thinking of trying you can borrow mine to see if they suit your purpose, they are just sitting on a shelf unused at present.

Steve

Thanks Steve, that's very kind of you. I'm just at the 'considering options' stage at the moment but will definitely keep that in mind 👍

3 minutes ago, AbsolutelyN said:

I tested out a rough and ready dual rig last year - RASA 8 and Esprit 80. It was very difficult even with a wider field on one scope and it was too much for my azeq6. I concluded its massively easier and more flexible to run two scopes on two mounts. Much more manageable in my opinion.  

How do you control both though, two laptops ?

16 minutes ago, geeklee said:

If you have a camera and lens, that sounds like the best way to get started if you wanted to.  At least you could price up the bits needed to mount them together without extra camera and scope etc! 

I have my modified Cannon 600D still, and a half decent 135mm lens but I've tried that combo before and it just didn't seem to pick up hardly any signal!. I only have the 2 inch L-enhance so I cant use that so I guess the best option would be to try with the L enhance clip in version to see if that brings out some more nebulosity. I really fancy getting a dedicated colour astro camera though and then either a lens of scope in front. I was happy with my 600D but would rather move forward in quality! 

I'm guessing my guiding would need to be really good with a dual set up or does it not really make a difference!?

5 minutes ago, geeklee said:

From dabbling myself, like normal but with a more obvious "2-way DEC".  So RA on overall weight, DEC with scope either side of saddle and DEC at 90 degrees to this (so you're balancing the scopes along their dovetails I guess is another way to think about it).

They would be pointing slightly off yeah.  There's a few discussions going on right now on SGL about dual RASAs and Esprit 150s.  With these big scopes there is a dedicated saddle (or two) to help pointing but it would probably be overkill in weight and price for what you suggest.  I've seen scope inside rings (like some guide scopes are done) used too.  There are probably a few DIY solutions out there as well!  Maybe simple shims or slight misalignment of a saddle would be enough - all depends on how precise you want them to match.  A widefield lens + a scope probably doesn't need to be too close if their FOV are vastly different.

Think about the whole weight of two rigs as well plus all their extras and any extra "metal" you use to get those rigs put together Vs the HEQ5 Pro recommended maximums.

You've also got the control mechanism of a dual rig as well (if it's not a DSLR).  Not only additional USB and power but software and do you want to tie them together for focusing, dithering etc (again, more relevant to matching scopes than a DLSR and lens).

Plenty of members that have done this will probably provide more concrete info!

Thanks mate, I forgot to ask In regards to the extra faff it also causes as per what you mentioned, powering and controlling two cameras etc. I don't really wont to go down the two mounts/set up route because that then means, two laptops etc, etc etc so was hoping a dual set up could be more of a possibility but could be in its own right, a pain especially because I only have the HEQ5 Pro, it all starts getting expensive even with out upgrading the mount.

If I was able to set up a dual rig on my HEQ5 Pro, how does it work with balancing, i .e having two set ups left and right (East and west) of the saddle?. Dec balancing normally balances a scope with the counter weight so would it still be the same!?. Also I've often wondered how you get two scopes/cameras pointing at the same target as in exactly the same position in the sky as I'm guessing they would be pointing at slightly differently positions at the same target?

To make the most of each night I'm considering a camera with lens next to my WOZ73, or possibly another Z73 but I think the weight might be two much for that so I'm just mulling lots of things over so this is coming straight out of my brain to this post, I've not really started looking round the web for info

1 hour ago, John said:

Give it a go on a tightish double star. If you get a nice crisp split of both pairs of Epsilon Lyrae, things are good 😀

Il give that a go if I get a chance  

2 minutes ago, michael.h.f.wilkinson said:

100 mm

Apologies, Ive only just seen you mentioned this above! Interesting to see what 100mm covers, thanks  

Very nice  

Was it taken at 50mm!?

Thanks guys

I've been waiting for a chance to do a star test on my SW80 ED DS Pro since its little accident. I wasn't able to take an image of the test but I've sketched what I could clearly see at the front and back of focus on a bright star. Would you say the collimation is good!? I appreciate this probably isn't the best way to do it, my knowledge on star tests is little. 

Sorry to read this Steve, sounds like your on your way to sorting it and I hope you manage too. 

1 hour ago, SlimLine said:

Great choice for imaging. Im torn between the WO Z73 and the skywatcher ed 80 pro at the moment 🤔

I'm moving on from the SW80 ED DS PR0 onto the WO73. The SW has been a good scope and I'm sure there's probably not alot in it, lots of people using the SW80. I have to say though the WO has a better spec in regards to focuser, it also feels of better quality in terms of the build, it feels absolutely solid, it's got the looks aswell 😊 The SW's are pretty well built also, both ED doublets though with I believe the same glass!? Focal length might help determine your choice also. I'm looking to sell my SW80 once I've double checked a couple of things. 

A new scope! 😁 It took a lot of thinking and considering but I've settled on the WO Z73. I think it's going to be a great scope for my current imaging needs, it will be nice having a bit more room in the 430mm focal length from my original 480mm and having a threaded connection with 360 degree rotator in the WO flattener is a definite plus. Its also thanks to my wife as its my anniversary present, isant she the best! 😊

With The WO Z73 you can use just a flattener so no reduction (not a triplet though) and the same with the TS optics Photoline 80mm. I'm also annoyed that there's not a flattener for the 81 GT!

William Optics Adjustable Flattener for ZS73 | First Light Optics

Teleskop-Express: TS-Optics PHOTOLINE 80mm f/6 FPL53 Triplet APO - 2.5" RAP Focuser