Nikolas74

Soon I am going to receive my first time OSC ccd ,I live under Bortle 8-9 skies...I was wondering what filter would be my first priority since I like to image Nebulas mostly....but i wouldn't like to loose the opportunity to image galaxies and star clusters....

There are so many filters out there and now the new Multiband pass filters that combine Narrowband lengths. Duo bad, triband,quad band etc.

In my opinion I need a Light Pollution filter and for Nebulas a Multiband pass filter.....

Any recommendation on brands ?

How about the target ADU value ? Is it the same like bin 1x1 or should be less ?

Hello ,

I live in the south part of Athens and according to the City Light Pollution Map my place lays on the Bortle scale 8-9....

My question is what is the limit magnitude of targets that I can image ?

I am using already Narrowband filters by Astrodon 3nm (Ha and Oiii).

I am using Stellarium that gives you a hint of targets magnitude..

Thank you

Nikolas.

Minus 5 I think it's a good temp for imaging .....your camera is still new .... 😀

I go to maximum minus 10 when imaging with my Atik 383 and few calibration frames after.

I see your point now and I am smiling because I always had the same question.....anyway APT never reaches the ambient temp....

Me what I do is to set approximately the ambient temp or take a reading from weather underground....and then hit warm.....I let it stop where it stops usually a few degrees less than the ambient temp....then it will reach the ambient temp on its own without any problems to the camera.

Or you can choose the warm to the option that you don't set any ambient temp....and let the driver do the warm up.

Now if you use the original software of your cc'd then it might push it to reach the ambient temp that you set.

The choice is yours , so far APT never destroyed any of my cameras 😀

3 hours ago, alan potts said:

after all some of us may not know what the temperature is after a few hours capturing

But you can see the temperature on the left dialog box......

I use APT for cooling and warming because it has the option of choosing steps.

They say it's safer !

I am using an ADM Saddle upgrade on my HEQ5 Pro....I had to change the dovetail bar to a longer one from ADM....to make it balance.....

But I think it's an excellent lens/telescope...

What I was disturbed about its the price which now I believe it's too high.....

I have exactly the same in some frames using an Atik 383....I thought was the camera voltage problem....

Thank you all so much for your help.....I do have plate solve and I will give it a try again....I will plate solve my previous frame and send a go-to command and see what happens....

I think I tried that once and didn't go exactly to the same spot like before , but I guess stacking can fix that.....if the distance is just a little off center...

I have started taking Ha frames on M16 , but I need to take some more tomorrow night as well.....

How can I continue on the next night and have the target on the same frame like previous night...?

I am using APT Tool and has an option called Framing Masks....you can select few bright stars and use it as a reference point to get the image in the same frame like before nights...

But what happens if don't have any bright stars for reference points.....?

I read somewhere that I can use Point Craft....

Could you please guide me on how to achieve same Framing on multiple sessions ? 

How you do it ?

Thank you

Nikolas.

Yes problem is solved , there is a setting in the dialog box of Atik "PREVIEW" according to Atik you tick this to make easier focusing...it's downloading images faster....

Don't tick this when imaging otherwise it creates a light band on the bottom or top of the image....

Thank you for helping and thank you Atik for fast reply.

Thank you I will give it a try since I use APT Tool

Yesterday i had the same problem....i am attaching a photo....

Time: 600sec

Temp: +5C

Filter: Oiii

Thank you all for your answers !!!

Thank you all !

Excellent !! I am using APP at the moment I think it can do that.

Thank you.

Hello ,

It's my first time that I do imaging and meridian Flip...I thought that in that way I can get more images to stack but my question is that since the images will be flipped how do you stack them ?

Is it in 2 sets?...pre-meridian flip set and after meridian flip set ?and then you just merge them ?

Thanks 

Nikolas.

Thank you for your answers, 

In my understanding the warm up procedure should reach the ambient temperature.....i am correct ??

Because this is what i can't reach......

I always have this problem when i want to warm up my CCD (ATIK 383L+) and previously with other Atik cameras, although the outside temp is at 30°C the warm up can't reach that temp... for example today it stopped at 17°C and didn't want to go to 28°C that i had set it.....

Anyone knows why ? and is it safe not to warm up the CCD at correct temp ?

Nikolas. 

Mine too works fine....try resetting PHD2 settings and try again , also choose the correct camera from the list.....check also the cable and blow some air to the connection plugs because sometimes they get dust inside....

Excellent results !!!!!!! Nice filed of view and frame , can't wait till i try mine.....

Allan , i believe that the problem is at EQmod settings try to review them again or post some screenshots if you can..

Love my ESPRIT 100ED for imaging and wouldn't change it , just a bit heavy for my preferences !

I started with newtonians and sold them all although they are very good for imaging but not very compact , then i had a MAK127 sold it too , didn't like so much the long focal length... 

I use Stellarium , for planning and mount control and framing.....

Nice graphic interface easy to use , updates often , recently i was checking the SkyX Pro but i think i will stay with Stellarium.