Z3roCool

I have not got a Telescope yet so could be talking rubbish  (Only use lenses). From all the images of the GT-71 and ZWO cameras they all seem to have more spacing between the camera and back of the scope. As mentioned above, do some testing in the day to see what you can get. Looks to me though that it may be spacing issue.

**3 replies came in as I was typing...I AM SLOW**

11 hours ago, Moonshane said:

It's another belter although being picky, I think the composition would be more aesthetically pleasing if the camera was panned right a bit so the comet and tree were in the same approximate position but on the right. Then the comet's (apparent) motion would be into the frame not out of it.

You are right! Think this one may have a little better composition?

1 hour ago, KevS said:

Very nice and atmospheric image. As Moonshane has said....less is more👍

Thanks KevS

4 minutes ago, Moonshane said:

That's a fab image. Very atmospheric. I think this really shows well how less (magnification of the object) is more. The landscape creates a real sense of being there.

Thanks Moonshane - Just noticed the very obvious stitch mark on the image next to the single tree  Will have to do again at some point!

Did not have a wide lens with me so tried a mosaic shot. This is 6 images stitched together, each 2 second exposure.

3 minutes ago, DaveL59 said:

are you going to admit to a day with the chainsaw removing all the other tree's to get that one lovely image  

😂😂😂 It is a weird one! I have driven passed that tree when driving down the M42 Motorway for years and always wanted to photograph it. Never managed to as not found the roads nearby and never had time. Went out last night and on the way back from my normal imaging spot went a different way. Spotted the tree up on the hill through some trees. Parked about 100 meters from a gap in the bushes and went to have a look where the Comet was. Could not believe my eyes! Think the Police could not believe theirs either seeing me running down a deserted lane in the countryside with a tripod with camera and lens on and a laptop tucked under my arm!! 😮 Bit of explaining to do 😂😂 

Went out last night to try and get a different shot to those I took recently. More of an arty minimalistic approach. Not sure how it came out in the end but I quite liked it.

Finally some clear sky!

Manged to drag myself out of bed and take my lad to some high ground to image Neowise Comet. What a site! We were totally blown away when we spotted it. A morning I will never forget.

Sadly had only my cheap tripod so shots are not great but to get an image of a Comet that is visible to the naked eye had to be done!

First shot is at 400mm 

Second is at 70mm (Can jut make Comet out in top right corner, wanted to get some of the NLC's  with it).

Wow! That is special. Brilliant

16 hours ago, carastro said:

Since the original poster has yet to respond to any of our comments, I don't think we can really help any further without seeing some of his data.   I hope he/she is well at this difficult time. 

Carole 

Hi all, thanks so much for the replies and helpful input! I have been snowed under with personal things and work going through threat of redundancy (Just found out 10 mins ago all is okay for now!). I will have a read through and respond...sorry for not being on the ball.

Hi there, I currently only shoot Narrow band with my 1600MM camera. I have tried RGB but I get terrible results compared (Using the 1.25" ZWO filters). I have been looking at getting a OSC camera (294MC) and a LP filter to get quick colour data and then combine with Ha data collected from the 1600 camera for increasing the depth and detail of the image.

I cannot see a way of getting natural RGB data with my current setup (Canon 400mm lens) with no easy way of implementing an LP filter. With the 294MC I could add an LP filter into the EFW to get quicker RGB data. Just trying to work out a path forward, wondering what others would do? Going between getting the OSC or swapping the lens with a proper scope (Esprit 100 or WO GT-81...)

*Sorry, realised this is in the wrong topic but cannot work out how to delete*

32 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said:

Ah ok, i hope i can stop my Canon lens as well, i tried my Canon camera 1 series and also Sony mirrorless and it never stop it down, i will see if i can with an old camera as many said i need that DoF button on the camera.

I just stuck it on my body and changed to Aperture Priority and then set. Turned camera off and put on the ASI. Pretty sure it worked as could see the difference, especially when I do it on my 70-200 f2.8.

1 minute ago, TareqPhoto said:

Very nice

Which Canon 400 lens did you use? And did you stop it somehow?

Thanks, it is the Canon 400 5.6 L. I stopped it down on my camera to f7 and then mounted onto my ASI. Stars are still not great but a lot better than at 5.6

Whilst I was setting up and planning my imaging on Cygnus I thought I would push the mount (NEQ6) to see what length sub it could manage - max I have tried is 6 minutes guides. I pointed in the general direction of Cygnus and tried a 20 minute sub. Was quite surprised it came out fairly okay! 

Gear used:

ZWO 1600MM Pro

Canon 400mm lens

2 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

That's come out rather well indeed!  Could the Oiii be rescued in Starnett++ and still be used??

Tried to Starless fix...Stars are a lot better and at least got a bit of colour in....will have to go again as my PS skills are terrible! A quick edit anyway to see if the stars were kept in check. Thanks for the suggestion.

57 minutes ago, geordie85 said:

You could always combine your ha and O111 subs then add the ha layer again as a luminance, then blur the original ha O111 layer 

Will give that a go, will have to have a play as pretty new to NB and Photoshop!

44 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

That's come out rather well indeed!  Could the Oiii be rescued in Starnett++ and still be used??

Great idea. Had not thought of that, just running through StarNet now to see what it looks like. Thanks

Took my first shot of the Elephant Trunk since getting a dedicated camera. This is just under 2 hours of 5 min subs. Took another few hours in OIII but did not get my focus nailed so stars look terrible   Will do again but after 4 nights of 3AM finishes could not do another!

Details:

ZWO 1600 MM Pro

 22 x 5min Subs in Ha

Canon 400mm 5.6 lens

Hi there, my NEQ6 decided to bend the altitude bolts the other month. Decided to buy the upgraded bolts but still felt that at 52 degrees the bolt was just not allowing easy Polar Alignment due to the angle the bolt and the mount head bar are at when at high altitudes. At my Dad's place it was not to bad as a lot further South and bolt and bar are at a greater angle allowing better leverage for adjustment . Since starting Narrow Band imaging it has allowed me to get at home which is further North and then the problems started. 

Looked into a wedge but the cost was silly! Very nice bit of engineering but too much I felt at just under half the price of the mount again. Found some details about the Rail Kit that helps with the issue I had. Martin Pyott has a great You Tube video online showing the process of replacing this, a fairly simple job but I am not at all mechanically minded so the video really helped!

The kit itself is fairly expensive for what it is (A small piece of metal with a cylinder on it that slides back and forth). The fact that I had no way of getting similar made up meant the price to me was acceptable so I purchased from Dark Frame Optics.

The swap out took me about an hour altogether and went really well. The precise adjustment now of the rear altitude bolt can be done with one finger, even under heavy load. This has brought my mount back to life and fixed an issue I feel is the major downfall and engineering fail of SkyWatcher for this mount at high altitudes. I highly recommend this if you are having issues with bendy bolts etc...

Below are a few images from the fitting.

1. Removal of the Caps was fairly easy. Heat up with hairdryer and slip a very thin knife (Or Similar) Then get credit card under and work around. Pops of pretty easy. Marking up the 0 and 90 degree marks also so restoring the caps in correct position. The kit does supply replacement caps in case you do destroy the originals when removing.

2. Removal of main mount from base. There are a couple of washers that need to go back in the correct place.

3.

4. Damage from rear altitude bolt. Used to take real care when adjusting but this mount is real soft!

5. Grub screws. These need releasing before removing the mount head. They tighten up to stop any lateral slack in the joint when put back together.

6. View inside base with both the altitude bolts installed.

7. Rail Kit installed. It sits at the bottom of the base and the rear altitude bolt sits in a recess in the rear of the cylinder. The cylinder slides up and down the rail as you adjust the bolts.

8. Rear Altitude Bolt installed. 

The mount head then goes back on making sure the arm part goes above the cylinder so when you adjust the cylinder takes the hit from the bolt. It really does make adjustment so much easier. Polar Alignment is now a dream to do. I was getting Excellent PA with SharpCap but very quickly got drift due to the mount damage I believe. PA now sticks and can go unguided for 5+ minutes easy.

Thought I would make a post on this as seen a few members have fitted but not that much information on.

Cheers,

Tom.

On 08/02/2020 at 21:08, Stub Mandrel said:

Are the challenges over?

Have we admitted defeat in the face of Perma-Cloud?

Was wondering the same? No updates in a long while  I know it takes a lot to run them and vote etc...I am sure we could maybe get a voting system going so members could vote on the entries themselves?

On 01/04/2020 at 12:11, mackiedlm said:

Thats stunning. I'm with Alan in that usually starless does not do it for me but in this instance it really works.

 

Thanks Mackie

6 hours ago, alan potts said:

Jolly nice shot you have taken there, I don't normally like starless shots at all, but this one just works well, thanks for posting,

Alan

Thanks Alan. Most kind.

6 hours ago, Notty said:

Love them both but starless looks amazing. Might I ask, how do you achieve focusing in NB? I never found a bhatinov for my camera lens but I'd love to do some widefield stuff like this in NB, I've got the same camera as you.

Hi there, thanks. Focussing in Narrowband is a little hard. I usd to find using FWHM whn using my DSLR really worked well. The 1600 seems a lot harder with the camera lens. I use APT and the focussing aid. Sometimes it works really well and get dial down to a low figure and looks great but other times it fluctuates and have to guess the best.

I use the 1.25" LRGB and NB filters and they are all slightly different focus points so have to re-focus between filters,

I have found a focusser by Astromechanics which works with ASCOM and allows you to Auto Focus with APT (I ask the company to confirm). I have heard good things about how it focusses also. You can also control the aperture of the lens.

Tommy.

15 hours ago, MarkAR said:

I quite like that but without the stars it does look a little more ominous.

Yeah, I do like it more and more when I look at it

Never tried a Starless image...I know not everyones taste but first one I was pretty happy with.

Run with StarNet++