smr

Does anyone know how it compares to the 2600MC Pro? It's on offer at FLO at the moment for almost the same price.

I don't get that frustrated by the weather, or the lack of clear skies. I don't see AP as a competition, but rather a journey and a lifetime hobby and way of life. Sometimes it's good to try and turn negatives into positives, and in a way I think our fickle weather patterns add to the excitement of the hobby. I would obviously love to live somewhere where there is clear skies consistently as I think it's such a vast hobby and there are so many different objects to image... from widefield scopes to really long focal lengths, so there would still be a huge sense of satisfaction in learning and improving. 

That said I do feel a certain sense of excitement and a bit of a buzz when we get clear skies here, as they don't come in abundance. That probably stems from the challenge of astrophotography as well, it's a hobby which requires dedication, and part of the satisfaction for me, is being able to produce images amidst all of the technicalities, set backs and challenges AP encompasses.

On 23/12/2020 at 09:42, kirkster501 said:

My thoughts on this..... 

I don't think anyone questions that mono is better, 100% of course it is. With mono you dedicate the whole sensor to that channel alone so the full resolution is available for each channel.  So the results in an ideal world will always be better and you will build a better final image.  Period.

Ideal worlds, eh????  Wouldn't that be nice......  Covid all gone, conflict all gone, live to be 150 with my super-model girlfriend on my super yacht harboured off Cannes.....  Oh, and clear and reliable skies for astronomy.  Yeah, wouldn't that be nice? 

Alas, we don't live in ideal worlds folks.  Most of us on this forum live in a cloud infested country in the path of Atlantic weather systems with three major global air-masses converging directly above the UK with the jet stream snaking all over the place.   So, I'd suggest the question should be what quality pictures *CAN* you take from these cloudy shores with the minimum amount of frustration and that keeps your interest alive in this fascinating subject?  I asked my self that question many times whilst I was doing mono with my Atik460 and 8300 chip cameras (both superb btw).  And I have a mountain of unfinished data sets and a heap of frustration to go with it.  This year I have been working on M76 in LRGB - The Little Dumbell nebula - for months and only have two colours in the can due to the UK permacloud.  In the same time I have grabbed several complete images with my OSC camera, one of them below from my QHY268C on the FSQ85.  OSC is now so much better than it used to be. 

My strategic direction is now OSC. Although I will continue with mono I will be making no further investments in it.  If I lived in a sunnier, kinder climate my answer may be different.  But I don't. I live in Nottingham, UK.

Merry Christmas,

Steve

Excellent post. Superb image as well

Can't find much about these Cameras, are they any good? 

https://www.sxccd.com/trius-pro-834

All my astrophotography images prior to the Heart Nebula were taken with my stock 80D at ISO 200 if you want to have a look

https://flic.kr/ps/2ZddwW

Hi, 

I'm trying to work out how to achieve the correct back focus with my Z73 and Field Flattener and the ZWO 2600MC Pro. 

I have the original Z73 Field Flattener pictured here:

Here's the William Optics Back Focus Diagram...

The back focus distance required looks to be 54.8mm. The ZWO 2600 MC Pro comes with the following spacers

That would achieve 55mm of back focus and not 54.8mm.

Would this be ok?

Does the 26C work fine with APT ? 

Just seen a picture of someone with their 2600 MM Pro on fb. I think he's a tester for ZWO.

I'm definitely going to upgrade either this month or next month to a dedicated OSC, I just don't know which to route to go for. I know people will say Mono because, and it is more versatile, but I'm also thinking, some of these fast scopes now, with an OSC, the images to me are magnificent... the RASA /f2, Epsilon 160 etc. The cost of an OSC and RASA would probably be about the same as Mono+Filter Wheel+Filters.

7 minutes ago, DaveS said:

Nope, you're just wasting imaging time. If everything is left as it is, then just do the one set. Only do another if you notice new dust bunnies appearing, or if you've had to strip the rig down for any reason.

Do take Dark Flats though, this will help your calibration.

ah ok, makes sense! 

Are we talking about mono or CMOS with regard to dark flats? 

With my DSLR I use flats and bias only, should I be using dark flats in conjunction with them or to replace bias ?

32 minutes ago, DaveS said:

If you're not stripping the imaging train down each time then there's no need to take flats after each session. Just take one set when it's convenient.

/facepalm 

So you're saying I need not take flats after every imaging session I do if I leave my scope and DSLR on my mount all the time and don't alter anything?

9 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

You just accept the compromise of not refocusing.  Or slew to a bright star and refocus, or use a motorised focuser/software which measures all the stars in the field and doesn't require a bright star to work so you don't have to move the telescope.

Ah ok, as I use plate solving I could do that, temperature drops a certain amount, slew over to a bright star, refocus and then plate solve back to the target and carry on imaging ? What change in temperature would mean I'd have to refocus? 

12 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

You can take in luminance only and the flat should be ok for all four filters

The process of taking flats is the same with mono and osc, using the same flat panel.

ok thanks, so it's just the same as what I do at the moment, if I took 2 hours imaging with each filter, and end up finishing on the green filter for instance I just take 20 flats at the end and that would be ok ?

Hi,

I'd like to upgrade to a dedicated Astronomy Camera but I'm undecided as to whether to go for a Mono or OSC Camera. 

I don't mind imaging over several nights to achieve a final image, and indeed that is the way I go about imaging with my DSLR. 

At the moment my setup and workflow is very basic, if imaging a nebula I'll just use my Canon 600D with the Optolong L-eNhance Filter and shoot flats at the end of the night. I dither with APT/PHD2 and so I don't use dark frames, I just use flats and bias. 

For Flat frames I just take 20 images at the end each session by using an LED panel. 

With an OSC Camera I understand that I'd benefit from being able to take dark frames by using set point cooling on the Camera and don't think I'd have much problem adapting. 

But for Mono I'm still not sure of what's involved in the work flow exactly.

If I had a Mono Camera and Filter wheel, would I have to take flats for each filter, if I shot in LRGB? 

Would taking flats with an LED panel work for a Mono Camera or is there another way that this has to be done?

It would be great if there was a detailed youtube video / tutorial on all of this but I can't find anything which goes into detail in exactly what is involved in Mono imaging.

One thing I've never done is refocus throughout the night with my DSLR, I'll focus with my bahitnov mask before imaging and then just lock the focus down and leave it, I've seen quite a few posts about having to refocus when using a dedicated camera because the temperature can change over the course of an imaging session, yet I don't understand how this works and is put into practice. If I'm imaging a nebula with my DSLR and the temperature drops a few hours into the session I don't understand how I'd be able to refocus the camera if there aren't any bright stars to focus on with the bahitnov mask. 

If anyone could help with advice on these points I'd really appreciate it.

Absolutely stunning! This level of astrophotography is my dream !

Will you be buying the mono version Richard? Is there actually any reason to with the 2600 and Tak combo you have, because I can't see any!

would any of this be easier with the 2600M ? I only ask because afaik the 2600C comes with the correct spacing out of the box whereas the colour 268 doesn't ? 

Just wondering if the 2600 M would be easier re spacing etc.?

I'm tempted to buy the QHY268M but I don't know enough about Mono, I've got no idea how to set up filter wheels etc. and do flats for each filter etc. as well as what to get / then there's added costs involved buying the filters and filter wheel. But I am very tempted to just go for it, I could dip my toes in by just doing mono imaging for a while until I can figure everything out and buy what I need to do colour imaging at a later date. 

This is one of if not thee best I have seen of the Horsehead and Flame. Spectacular in every sense. I love your processing skills and your attention to detail from image capture right through to the final stage of post processing -something to aspire to.

11 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

I've been in touch with this supplier, as well as the supplier I have ordered mine off.

Essentially this is the situation as far as I can tell - there were a small number offered initially at the discounted price of £1799 - these have all sold out.  BUT then QHY last week announced that the discount price will hold for ANYONE who ordered before 5th Feb, but they will have to wait for their order to be produced/delivered.

So that is why it says awaiting delivery.

That's good to know, thanks. That price is very good. Decisions .... :)

that astrograph website says the camera is in stock, and then says (scrolling down the page) awaiting delivery. Can't say I'm keen on suppliers who do that. 

Hi

I've never done any planetary imaging before and wondered how best to photograph the great conjunction with what I have (120mm mini guidecam, 50mm guidescope, Canon 600D and Z73 refractor)

I dont think its possible to connect my guidecam to the z73 is it?

Thanks for the replies. 

Yes my interest is in astrophotography and imaging so I would need an automated dome, I basically want something to house all my equipment in ready to image within a few minutes with everything set up, and sit in the warmth of my house whilst imaging.

At the moment I have my mount in my house and I just take it outside, place on the patio and do the polar alignment, plate solving, and then remote control from laptop in lounge to laptop outside, it probably takes me around half an hour to forty minutes getting everything set up.

I don't want to have a dome where I'd need to go out and move the dome to adjust to the sky so that would have to be automated - what's the cost involved in doing this?

It's also worth mentioning that I am completely useless when it comes to DIY and don't know anyone that would be able to help with diy stuff so it would have to be something which is ready off the shelf so to speak.

Hi,

Just decided today that I'm interested in buying an observatory due to set up and tear down time as well as the ability to start imaging quickly. Overall I think it would be a worthwhile investment.

So I've been looking around at some observatories and the Pulsar seems to be well liked. I'm just wondering if they are any things to be aware of before going ahead and having a base built and buying the dome. 

I've not long had a base built for my new Shed at the bottom of the garden though a base for the observatory wouldn't have to be the same type of build. I'd be thinking of having a circular concrete base slightly larger in diameter than that of the observatory which would be the 2.2m dome rather than a rectangular or square base.

Appreciate any advice as I'm very new to the idea.

I've just bought a Keter Shed for my new house. I might buy another one now...

Thanks for sharing the video, very interesting!

That is a stunning M45.