david_taurus83

Mine does this as well. Click an XISF on the desktop and windows trie to configure/install something to PI. Only noticed it after I updated PI itself?

38 minutes ago, Nikodemuzz said:

Thanks for sharing. I can certainly see what you mean about being able to pick up faint stuff! How dark is your sky, and did you use filters?

Bortle 6, shot directly over 2 streetlights. I have an IDAS D2 filter but with this scope its causing the halos and reflections on the brighter stars. Something I'll have to live with I'm afraid unless I go to a dark site.

2 hours ago, Nikodemuzz said:

You mean sensitivity in general? I would expect the Ha sensitivity to be behind a dedicated astro camera like that, especially without modification. Still, interesting to know! Not all targets are that dependent on Ha.

I should have said, I bought mine modded. The 6D is supposedly 49% QE before you remove the filter so after modding it will be fairly close to the ASI1600 in terms of photon to electron conversion. I'm using the same focal length as I was with the ASI but I've gone from 2.4" per pixel to 4" per pixel so a lot more light landing on each pixel will add to its intensity value. The ASI is excellent with an Ha filter, always gave impressive results but I always struggled with faint non emission stuff. The 6D seems to fare better for me in this regard. See below, a work in progress as I'm trying to learn to process in photoshop. The colour is all wrong but theres loads of dusty stuff available. Stack of 240 x 60s at ISO1600. Scope is an Altair 70EDQ-R.

I've found my 6D to be more sensitive than expected. I dare say even more sensitive than the ASI1600 mono I had. Seems to pick up a lot of faint signal. Pixels are almost twice as big mind.

Oiii filters are renowned for causing halos. You could try turning the filter the other way to see if it helps or adjust spacing between your camera and filter.

Have you installed ASPS? I used Sharpcap for a few sessions a while ago and got it platesolving BUT I already had ASPS installed for use in APT so maybe you need to point Sharpcap to the correct folder, I cant really remember myself.

http://www.astrogb.com/astrogb/All_Sky_Plate_Solver.html

3 hours ago, spillage said:

I have always started to use the PHD drift alignment tool as this will put the mount near to the equator/meridian then cancel the drift alignment and run calibration.

That's exactly what I do as well! I even platesolve and sync at this position for accuracy.

Thanks Olly. Will give it a go!

Thanks all for the advice. Yes, I agree my background could be lowered but kept it at around 35 as didn't want to loose the dust below M42. Hopefully can do something with masks as things progress. Regarding the halos and spikes, i believe these are reflections caused by my IDAS filters, both the D2 and NB1 show pronounced halos. I done some imaging last night without any filters and the halos appear to have gone but will stack some subs tonight just to be sure. Hopefully the good news is it's not the scope (Altair 70 EDQ-R flatfield quad) causing them but presents a problem with dealing with LP if I want to image without halos.

Below, single sub with D2 filter in the left, single sub with no filter on the right.

1 hour ago, wxsatuser said:

Nice lot of detail in the data but colour needs looking at.

Thanks, haven't got to colour yet! Also, theres hardly any background to pick. No wonder I struggled with ABE in Pixinsight!

Has the polar scope been calibrated? The reticle isn't loose?

So far, I have watched some basic levels and curves videos and managed to come up with this. 240 x 60s at ISO1600. Just levels and curves and a bit of denoise. There is more to be had and plenty of dust to try and tease out further. Looking back, PI wasnt as straight forward when I started. Even with this data, I'm struggling with ABE in PI to remove a bad gradient on the right hand side of the image without damaging it too much whereas the trial of Gradientxterminator in PS dealt with it relatively easily?!

6 hours ago, newbie alert said:

Loads of videos on u tube, pick out the ones that suit you and your taste  and work with those methods..

Yes, loads of videos but the purpose of my post was to try and pinpoint the videos aimed solely at the beginner like myself. Once I have established a basic understanding I can watch the more advanced ones and try further techniques as I learn.

A bit late for new year resolutions but here is mine. I'm going to learn how to process with Photoshop. Seeing as you cant seem to buy older versions, I've very begrudgingly signed up to the £10 per month plan. The problem is I havent got a clue how to use it! I have primarily used Pixinsight up to now but I would like to add PS to my workflow. I learned how to use PI by watching youtube tutorials and then buying the book by which time I had a fairly good handle of the layout and processes of the software. I have subscribed to @carastro Carole's channel as it looks very good for a beginner like myself to follow. I also have Steve's book (Dark Art or Magic Bullet) but I havent really looked into it too much. I had a go at a trial of PS a while ago but lazely reverted back to PI. I'd like to try and learn PS kind of the same as I learned PI. Watching good beginner focused video tutorials, generating a familiar workflow and once comfortable refining techniques with the books. So, are there any other youtube channels out there solely focused on AP processing to compliment Carole's? The few I have watched briefly tend to move quickly through the processing and they look good (AstroBackyad etc) but it looks like your expected to have an existing knowledge of PS.

Just use APT? Your going to need some form of astro software for camera control.

Congrats on the new mount Adam! Should open up a whole new range of focal length should you be tempted!

When the Polemaster first come out it was a great idea but with a hefty price tag. The fact that Sharpcap, ASIAir, Stellarmate etc all have a polar align function it makes the Polemaster grossly expensive and redundant imo. I owned one, they are really good, but I find Sharpcap just as accurate and less fiddly to work with. If you dont already own one, you could buy a new guidescope, camera and Sharpcap license for less than the PM. At £10 for a years licence, it's the best of the bunch.

Your buying a colour camera so why do you want a filterwheel? Get the 2" version as it's for colour imaging anyway so you can use it with a broad range of cameras should you choose.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/guide-cameras/astro-essentials-32mm-f4-mini-guide-scope.html

Currently out of stock but worth an email to FLO anyway. I've left a review on there. Great little guide scope. Guiding no issue and Sharpcap for polar alignment with the ASI120MM mini. I have a helical focuser on mine for fine tuning focus but it's not necessary. If you cant get hold of one then the ZWO one looks very similar.

Try turning the filter around. Its definitely dependent on the type of scope, flattener, filter, spacing etc. I could shoot 15 minute subs of this with my William Optics GT71 and I got a barely noticeable effect, though a much bigger star. In fact, it may actually have been the longer exposures that swamped the detail of the microlensing so you could try that also.

Ah, just fast forwarded Sky Safari. Probably Jupiter, it was hiding behind a virtual tree!. Never mind!

This morning, between 6.30 to 7.00, low down, just to the right of where the sun is coming up. I was driving so couldn't get exact bearings. It wasnt fully dark but it seemed too bright for a star to be visible, though Antares is I big one! Anyone else do a bit of morning sky scanning that could confirm?

Just to throw it out there, I was under the impression the 600D was one of the best beginner cameras to go for. Whats the difference between that and the 450 apart from the swivel screen?

What kit are you using? That looks fairly close up so a long focal length?

Why not just run a 12v supply outside? I have a Nevada 12v supply indoors and I run out a 15m cable, the yellow ones used on building sites with the 110v plugs (stays flexible even when cold). I cut the plugs off and I use 2 of the cores. Banana plugs on the supply side and a multi cigar socket on the outside? Simple, safe and doesnt need the skills of an electrician.