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Daz69

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  • Content Count

    303
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About Daz69

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Fishing, playing guitar, cycling, budgie keeping/breeding, large scale scratch built RC planes, DIY and tinkering!
  • Location
    Nth Hampshire, UK, but my heart is in East London WHUFC "><"
  1. Selling up, 200mm Skywatcher explorer on a sturdy homemade dobsonian base. Base constructed from 18mm exterior grade ply, sealed and painted white. Rotates on teflon guides over a large scale compass. Illuminated bearing pointer. Rigal Quickfinder with inbuilt heater to avoid misting up. Sybony laser collomator and a FLO Cheshire collomator, Celestron Omni Plossl's (x3 I believe) and a x2 barlow. Eyepiece filters also I believe. No longer in use so selling up. Included is a homemade power distribution box for heaters, camera etc. using rheostats and buck converters, digital voltmeters added and all on separate fuses. See my threads on my base and box for more info. Photos are on these threads, if I can find them I'll stick the link on here, otherwise i'll take new photos upon request. £200 collect only from Nth Hampshire/Berkshire border. Can deliver up to 10 mile radius free. Further than that will be negotiated. I cannot post due to size and weight. I will NOT split this so don't ask.
  2. From my R/C days as well, and rubbish Ni-Cads Wish we had LiPos and brushless motors back then.
  3. It's certainly not a Tamiya connector, or even an old one. The lock tab on the Tamiya's is always on top to avoid wrong connection.
  4. That might explain why i cannot see anything through my telescope Yes, that's what I meant lol.
  5. I use this for my batteries, and it can be left attached permanently, as I do with my caravan leisure battery. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sakura-Car-Van-4x4-Bike-12v-6v-5-3A-Automatic-Intelligent-Smart-Battery-Charger-/301663140633?hash=item463c863b19:g:askAAOSwmtJXa-11 I bought mine about 4-5 years ago, at twice the price. 4 stage computer controlled, keeps the battery in it's best condition by cycling it. Further to my first post, the charger you use will just throw in what it spits out, and will not tailor each charge to what the battery needs, whereas a computer controlled stage charger will. Your batteries will last much longer too.
  6. What is the output of the charger? If it is 500mah, then at the extremely very best, it will take up to 24hrs to charge that battery. The real output is usually less than what is stated. Put a volt meter on the battery and see how many volts are in it. Chances are that the charger recognised the reverse polarity when you switched on, and didn't charge it (or blow it up!) . One suggestion is, throw the charger away, those things are useless and get a proper charger for real piece of mind, not wishing to be rude.
  7. I saw the transit as well last night, but didn't know which moon it was. Nice drawing as well!
  8. Your SW200 will have a collimation cap already. Lasers are good PROVIDING that they too are collimated, and to do that you need to make a collimation rig (check youtube) and test it on a wall or similar, and the further away the better. I bought a Segen one, a cheapy in comparison to others, and it was badly collimated. Therethen followed hours of fiddling to get it to a point of some accuracy. I ended up getting the FLO premium cheshire (twice the price of the laser!) and find this the best. I use the laser to get the secondary right, and the cheshire for the secondary.
  9. NASA just rang, they want their scope back Alan Cracking bit of kit, congratulations!
  10. I have no knowledge of astrophotography, but people like you make these gorgeous DSO's visible for us observers, in all of their beautiful colours, so thank you for spending all of those hours getting them together and allowing us to see them.
  11. I understand what you're saying, but the easiest way is not always the best, or safest way. There is no right way as such, you do it however you want, but the best way to protect your expensive glassware is to remove it. In regards to removing the mirrors, don't be afraid to. So long as you work on a table with a soft towel under the OTA , and place the mirror face up away from where you work, and without any kids/pets that may grab it or knock it, you'll be fine. Learning how to collimate isn't difficult, my first attempt to get my Celestron set up (secondary was literally hanging by a thread when I unboxed it) took my quite a while, but when my SW200 came (secondhand), the first thing I did was whip both mirrors out to thoroughly clean the inside of the OTA, to check the mirrors, and do the secondary mod of fitting a large washer and plastic disc. Collimating that took a third of the time. I've got to take mine out again soon as I'll be fitting the shoe for my Rigel finder, and fitting a fan to the rear of the primary. Just work slowly, and methodically.
  12. Why not remove the primary? For 2 minutes work you could save the heartache of having a scratched mirror. Personally, and this is my thought, I certainly wouldn't trust a ha'penny sticky pad to save damaging an expensive mirror. As an expert DIY'er (IMO) and having a woodwork workshop, I have had many times when both my Dewalt and Bosch battery drills unknowingly release the drill bit whilst removing the bit from the drilled hole. That's not user error, but an unwanted trait of quick-release speed chucks. Of course you may very well be lucky and all will work out fine doing it your way, but in case someone else is looking at doing this job themselves, I advise against it.
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