RolandKol

Out of curiosity, adjusted pix to have 8 swaps,

Slight improvement... at least during the benchmark run, - not tested the rest.

Performance Indices

Total performance ...... 15163

CPU performance ........ 14649

Swap performance ....... 17782

Additional Information

Swap disks ............. 8

Machine description .... Legion Laptop

30 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Are you saying that's good, bad or indifferent though otherwise I'm not sure how it's helping?

Hmm, it is quite personal... I guess...
If you would post yours, - at least others with more knowledge would be able to advise/comment...

as in my case, - I am quite happy with the performance of my laptop, ignoring, I had 2 crashes during starnet2 run.

Most demanding, longest run for image size 4656 x 3520 are Starnet2: (stride 256 with 2x upsample), takes around 3.5min also deconvolution: 100 runs, probably about 1-2min.. not sure, have not actually checked.

I have not optimised Pix for performance as the rest of the procedures run "quite fast" or instantly.

P.S. looking at my results, looks like Swap performance is the main process dragging the rest down...
not sure how to improve or if any different hardware would help, - would be curious to see Linux or  win but AMD CPU based PC's to show theirs.

Laptop

*******************************************************************************

The Official PixInsight Benchmark version 1.0

Copyright (C) 2014-2021 Pleiades Astrophoto. All Rights Reserved.

*******************************************************************************

Benchmark version ...... 1.00.08

Input checksum ......... 2cd72b67e12fff2812ef5b5da054ab2a70a25e23

Serial number .......... 21IEJ83R4CQ1X099L2VOG6959H1KVD19

CPU Identification

CPU vendor ............. GenuineIntel

CPU model .............. 11th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-11800H @ 2.30GHz

System Information

Platform ............... Windows

Operating system ....... Microsoft Windows 10 Home

Core version ........... PixInsight Core 1.8.9-1 (x64)

Logical processors ..... 16

Total memory size ...... 15.773 GiB

Execution Times

Total time ............. 00:37.71

CPU time ............... 00:25.34

Swap time .............. 00:12.35

Swap transfer rate ..... 1341.900 MiB/s

Performance Indices

Total performance ...... 12473

CPU performance ........ 14936

Swap performance ....... 7432

*******************************************************************************

2 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

Hmmmm, now that is showing bad tilt…so not sure what is going on there….

That's was my initial point  not very reliable to go by 1 image.... 
From my personal experience, I am almost sure, HFD measurement actually was closer to the reality and I am bit confused why Tilt measurement does not pick it up... 
I checked around 20 images from the  last session, - all quite constant results... and very different to the ones I had before my adjustments to the optical setup, so it is kinda does the job and maybe my interpretation is the issue...  problem with HFD measurement, it does not show the Min/Max or deviation %, just within 10% and something else, cannot clearly read... 

27 minutes ago, John Wick said:

Wow! I guess it's the processing that really makes or breaks the image to some extent. Normally I just work my way down through the sliders and see what I think looks good. 

yep, this lens is truly WOW!   bortle 3 location should give you very nice initial data to work on.
Sadly, I still have not found time to image in full extent with it  as my skies are very bright...

As per processing, -  usually it is much more than just sliders... Noise reduction +  Sharpening balance + Colour/Contrast Balance is the main headache...

Ach... In this case the amount of stars...
Too large amount of stars can spoil the image also.

52 minutes ago, John Wick said:

I posses a Canon 6D, 135mm Samyang F2, Sky Watcher Star Adventurer, live in a bortle 3 rural area. Does anyone have any images or links to what I should be able to achieve given the equipment and location? Looking at imaging the various nebula and galaxies available in the autumn/winter seasons. 

Just want to set my expectations in order that I don't perhaps expect to much. 

Many thanks in advance. 

not sure if you missed this one, if so, go and check

astrobin also has quite a few pics

HFD....

not sure how to interpret...

Thanks!!!
Not even suspected I had almost no tilt ;)))

I am greatly in Doubt if the result is correct...  as the test image is from standard Skywatcher 130PDS focuser holding ASI1600+GPU CC+EFW...
(need to test more images and see the average)

#

On 29/09/2022 at 22:14, Stuart1971 said:

So, I have decided to do some testing on my set up for tilt using ASTAP, and I do have some, but it does seem too bad, so here comes, what maybe a stupid question, will field curvature, due to not having my flattener fitted with the images I was using to test, screw up the tilt results, as the results clearly show some tilt and curvature…and wondered how much of the tilt result would be affected by the field curvature…
I have only just got the flattener, so it’s not been used yet…

Thanks for looking

Stuart

Curious to test mine... And was not able to find this option on ASTAP...
Can you please advise how to do that?

Yesterday been testing CC spacing as seeing was terrible with lots of high clouds and dew came even at 22:00 o'clock...

however test image came surprisingly nice

Sadly, slight coma is still present... Not sure if I can do better... 

Most likely will try to add 1mm distance.

(NGC 869 - NGC 884 below is without any crop at all)

I got annoyed fighting humidity and frost on ASI1600MM-Pro,

just received one more toy.... 

3 minutes ago, Elp said:

Why the need? OAG is more suited for long focal lengths where your guiding needs to better match the imaging scale. I would have thought an OAG prism will take up a lot of the light cone of the small rear aperture of this lens too.

50 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

Has anyone ever used an OAG on this lens?

"lens + oag + filter drawer + camera", the TS Optics OAG is only 9mm thick so it could 'work' in theory.

Most likely it depends on the sensor size of the main imaging camera and if prism shadow can be hidden/left out of the FOV and etc.

P.S.

I guess the idea is not to improve the guiding itself, - just make the setup even more portable.

1 hour ago, Enceladus Dan said:

I put away each month, and next month I'm buying Pixinsight. I've just on a trial and i find it way better than DSS and Gimp. Maybe more so because I don't fully understand gimp. 

I have thought of the jump in deep end approach to save in the long run, but I get carried away and before I know it there is £2-3k in the basket for a cooled mono with all the filters and wheel. 

I'm gonna take a small step with a smaller OSC to get to grips with them, I tried it out with my asi462mc on M57( took some finding without goto on a 6x3mm sensor), I didn't know quite what I was doing and the subs were all blown out. Now I've read up and a bit more aware about the bit depth and full well capacities. It's a bit more obvious I was going to over saturate. 

I know that I will probably soon after want the mono, but while saving ( aprox 10-15 months) I can enjoy the colour while learning. 

Thanks 

Danny

yep, sadly this hobby does not bring money!  and works in opposite manner...

Out of curiosity, I've checked both cams (585 & 533), and as you already stated ,  -  main differences are resolution and pixel size, slight difference of Full Well, which you will not notice unless you will go for EAA. (for example, one of the most famous ASI1600 full well capacity is more than twice less and most people are happy with it)

However,  you missed, - it is 14bit vs 12bit...  Asi533 (14 bit ) will have around 4 times more dynamic range... 

for  additional $100 I would take 14bit for DSO for sure, I would even test it for EAA

Plus, in my personal opinion, it has much nicer FOV with 150PDS than 585

As per scaling, both cams will perform almost the same.

P.S.

@vlaiv can make much better comparison on the paper, I just hope I have not missed much.

24 minutes ago, Enceladus Dan said:

Hello Roland, it will be for DSO imaging. I use a dslr so far and looking for a good starter dedicated cam to learn with. 

I have a smaller asi462 I use for planetary. 

Just, trying image myself in your shoes... Once I would get un-cooled cam, few months later, I will want to test the cooled one... Curiosity... I would not be able resist...

At the end, I would spend twice...

Not sure about you.

P.S.

And even further more... Goodness... The same would happen about Mono and Colour...

Not pushing, but just think about it... 

As far as I know, all people in astro hobby are curious....

My suggestion would be, the most painful, but the cheapest in the long run... Jump to cooled mono.... maybe not today... maybe in April.. But if money is an issue... 

it is probably the best way in a Long run.

20 minutes ago, Enceladus Dan said:

@MichaelBibby hiya Michael, did you get the ASI585mc? If so how did you find it.

Im looking for a first dedicated astro cam as a stepping stone from my DSLR. Ive seen youtube reviews which make this camera look like a good starting point, without breaking the bank on larger cooled versions. 

At some point I aim to end up with something like the ASI294 Pro, be it the OSC or mono, but this will be further down the line. While looking at the ASI585mc I did see the ASI533mc uncooled. Double the sensor size, which I'm liking the idea of, as I'm not using goto a wider Fov would be easier to find my targets, but it also seems to offer similar low read noise, zero amp glow and low dark current as the ASI585mc. 

I tried to find a compassion of the 585 & 533 which brought me to this thread. But I've not found anything which really shows the 533 uncooled other than the pro versions, I'm hoping it's as good as the 585, meaning I can use it as a good first dedicated cam. 

If anyone has seen or used the uncooled ASI533mc, could you let me know your opinions. 

Thanks

Danny

Are you planning to use it for DSO or Planets (short exposure imaging only?).

If DSO, - maybe check the second hand cooled cam market also.

17 minutes ago, iwols said:

well had another go last night and got this

mars (2).tif 46.68 kB · 1 download

Much more contrast!

completely forgot, - try to apply Drizzle x2 or x3 while stacking.  You will end up with larger Final image

13 minutes ago, 8472 said:

Anyone have any recommendations as to what to cover the shiny silver drawtube with, as to potentially reduce internal reflections?

I haven't flocked any if my OTA, nor have I shortened the draw tube in any way.

Thanks.

As a drawtube is mechanical part which is placed on the small wheels/rollers of the focuser, - the only way to go, - paint...
I used the permanent marker, got lucky it was not a shiny one (son had in his "toolbox")

Spray paint will do the job also, if no leaks will be left.

More often is better, but eats time.... 

so I have setup sequence in NINA to dither every 2 subs , but  the sequence runs each filter twice first and dithers after, so it saves a bit of time.

24 minutes ago, edarter said:

How do you rotate the camera with the first of those two adaptors?

Thanks
Ed

The second link leads to the simple compressing ring type clamp, so you will be able to rotate cam just like the using the default focuser thumbscrews.
The first link leads to direct connector (CC will get screwed into the focuser) - no camera rotation option here, but much sturdier link.

P.S. just for comparison, the standard SW eyepiece holder here https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4147_Skywatcher-kurzbauender-2--Adapter-fuer-Crayford-Auszuege.html

Simple compression ring variant will be a bit better, but weaker than the direct link.

1 minute ago, malc-c said:

For details of pin outs etc to make your own have a look at this page - Or just contact FLO and purchase a new EQDIR cable if you are using a PC to control the mount.

If you are looking for a replacement cable for the handset to mount then this is a direct replacement 

Thanks a lot!

4 minutes ago, Stefan73 said:

You must have a very different CC to me.  I use this one from FLO https://www.firstlightoptics.com/coma-correctors/ts-10x-gpu-superflat-4-element-2-coma-corrector.html and I can't see any M48 thread on the telescope side, just on the camera side.  The telescope side looks just like a smooth nose piece.

The Bader one might work on 130PDS if you're CC moves the focus position outwards like the one I linked, otherwise you're right there wouldn't be enough inward travel.  Easy enough to measure if you've got 30mm and there's always FLO's returns policy...

 

Actually, the same, just read the description once again, btw, TS has a bit better one.

"With optional adapters you can screw the corrector to the drawer. For this purpose the corrector has an extended M48x0.75 thread on the camera side. Simply turn down the lock ring and you have 3 mm more M48 thread for screw adaptations available."

Teleskop-Express: TS-Optics NEWTON Coma Corrector 1.0x TSGPU Superflat - 4-element - 2" connection

Hi guys, anyone tried to attach GPU CC directly to the focuser (screw it in)?

Baader Clickclock does not match for 130PDS as is too long, - at least I was advised so.

as per compression ring, - I do have it... sadly... And I do not like it at all, - still lots of place for tilt and etc... Better than default, but not what I want.

FLO advised to get this one https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p4041_TS-Optics-Adapter-von-M48---2--Filtergewinde-auf-M54x0-75-Gewinde.html

But goodness... price with delivery will be almost £40... 

Thinking if this alternative will match https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/rvo-m54-male-to-m48-female-adaptor.html ~£20 , I guess I will give a try.

1 hour ago, Stefan73 said:

Do you mean the draw tube needs nearly maximum extension to reach focus?  

Yes, and even a bit more... If primary mirror is pushed IN during collimation, there is a chance focus will not be reached, - depends on filters or imaging devise.... I moved my primary mirror Back as Much as possible and collimated at that point... 
while been typing all of that... It seems, the longer the drawtube, or the further it will get extended... the better in my case...

P.S.

just found this one. for £9.. It looks like it also may match GPU https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224687317170?hash=item34506860b2:g:efYAAOSwnLVhjO-t&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4C1%2BsYgnvooS8mYYHIsWRKjf1uOOUvbLW44smnwmzZTxqV8yz7DJyMyDHMwdIKMe8ddwf%2FigChRc9fonOV3bvWuGuBYtVz9sttyPADSSmG5RScW%2Bs5FJQ1%2Faxv4RK9yTWiJLZRBRlMsffeFXhLdENtuw1AYVz3mSjN4YZlUz9gJE27yDyp%2FmDWRBg7XPEvNvaIrgNTvZVWfgdD0OWSxvu%2F31VOqMuVfCLn1DLVtwwCOLzBmlVw1q8GFON2xNSp%2BVqgSvZTYpWOH6B72csJSSSCSj1TyJL1mx7HOV%2BZuapmTO|tkp%3ABFBMwMGY7_xg

Hi guys,

My old cable is dead and I am looking for the new one, -  in ideal I would like to get the spiral/spring cable, - has anyone seen one?

On another hand, I do not afraid soldering, - if someone has Pinouts for the standard cable, - mybe the old phone cord will do?

Or maybe we have something like "rs232 to usb female adapter" already?

Goodnes...

Hi guys,

Does anyone knows which connectors/adaptors are needed to attach GPU Coma Corrector directly to PDS focuser (EFW + ASI1600 will sit on it)?

That default wobbly eyepiece holder is simply making me mad.

I do look for a bit larger and a bit better scope, but if direct connection is not too expensive, - why not...

P.S.

Connection most likely should not add any additional length as GPU focus point is almost at the very end of Drawtube even if the primary mirror is pushed as far away from focuser as possible.