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Everything posted by Susaron
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Awesome, remember that when doing RGB imaging it is necessary refocus when you change the filter.
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Of course I don´t mind Adam
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Dear all Yesterday night I was able to guide properly, here 15 subs of 4 min of M16 taken with the QHY168C (Gain 10, Offset 4, Temp = 10ºC), from Brihuega, 80km from Madrid. Only DSS and leves touched with Fitswork (not really processed to be honest)
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From last night with full Moon, mosquitoes and high clouds. First time using Polemaster with the AZEQ5 (bad point for QHY as to use the AZEQ bracket it is necessary to remove the bubble level). Guiding did not work so I only was able to shoot 120 secs exposures, from Sadr region with the QHY168C at Gain 10 Offset 4 Temp 0ºC. Processed with Fitwork and Gimp
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Moon picture taken yesterday from my balcony with the SW130PDS and my new QHY168C (Gain 3, Offset 0)
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Dear all Due to Jupiter opposition, I have not used so much my 130PDS, a couple of weeks ago I purchased an AZ4 to be used from home along with the little one. Last Sunday I took some pictures from my light-polluted balcony from the Moon and Jupiter using manual guiding and the Canon 70D. Cheers. M.
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It is a bracket complement to be used along with this bracket for a NEMA 17 Steeper motor: http://eu.stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor-geared-stepper-motor-alloy-steel-mounting-bracket-p-241.html The steeper conects to the focuser directly, so in order to fullfill the distance needed I had to design this small bracket, that matches to the one from Steeper Online with a couple of M4 screws. It is the orange part in this assembly
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Dear all A steeper bracket for the original SW130 focuser is available in stl format made in FreeCad, the file is available in my Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qw33bij099qm7v/AddedBracketSW130OriginalFocuser.stl?dl=0 Please let me know is you like it. Cheers.
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Thanks AKB, of course I don´t mind, the picture I submitted was a simple levels adjustment made with Canon EOS tool. Looks really cool.
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A single shot from M42 from yesterday evening, I had problems with guiding, though my polar allignment was under 2 arc minutes on both axes. 60 seconds at ISO1600 with a unmodded Canon 70D
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According to Robert´s project the steeper has to be attached either directly or through a printer belt to the hard part of the focuser. The original SW130PDS focuser is symmetric around the focus axis, so you can turn the focuser 180 degrees having the fine focuser knob pointing outwards and using the steeper from barckwards, that will allow to use a dew shield.
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Dear all I have been working on the set up of the DIY project MyFocuserPro, from Robert Brown, adapted to my SW130PDS Moonlite tuned. Today I have received a motor bracket I designed last week , manufactured with a 3D printer, if anybody is interested in the stl file done in FreeCad, please let me know.
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Yesterday evening we went out to the frosty lands south from Madrid to make a photo session with the SW130PDS Moonlite tuned. Polar alligment almost perfect (down 19'' in both axes), but the -2ºC made imposible the usb conexión between the netbook and the camera so I did short 30 secs frames by hand at high ISO (12800), this let me to make a lot of short pictures of the messiers around Auriga, Gemini and Taurus. Here some small jpg examples. Best Regards. M45 M35 and NGC2158 M36 M37 M38
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Very useful tool for astroimaging http://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/p/imagingtoolbox.html Cheers
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Thanks for the advice Wim, I have a photoresistor and an Arduino Uno board I will check the values I get. Thanks again.
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Hi Chris the brightness is an effect of the photo taken overexposed with the phone, here take a look to the flats at ISO800 and ISO1600 with the Canon 70D, let me know what do you think. First one is at ISO800 and the second one at ISO1600 Cheers.
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I´d like to share with you my DIY attempt to create a (cheap) flat box lamp adapted to the SW130PDS or any other scope under 160mm. It is really simple, the bill of materials consists of: 2 cans of butter cookies, American adhesive tape, 2 (5V) usb led strips, a methacrylate sheet. The buildind process is simple, just remove the back from one of the cans an assemble in series with the other one, perform a hole on the can top cover and glue a circular methacrylate sheet previously cut to the can diameter top cover minus 1 cm (just to give support for sticking). Perform a hole on the assemble cans to pass the usb cables, if needed add to usb extension cables. The power connection is provided by a Celestron 7Ah powertank. The total cost has been less than 30 euros.
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I´d like to share with you a photo taken of the field around M29 a couple of weeks ago, thanks to the sw Cartes du Ciel, I have added some of objects around M29, even there is a red supergigant ( BD+37 3903, http://simbad.u-strasbg.fr/simbad/sim-id?Ident=BD%2b37 3903 ). Best Regards.
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Maybe is not the highest accuracy instrument but I did use a small bubble level with all the imaging train attached to the focuser. It is curious but if you take a look to Sagramore´s pictures of M45 they have the same effect on the vertical spikes.
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Yes that´s what I meant. as your stars remain centered is not an issue with classical differential flexure but a twist along the optical axis due to the weight of the camera and the 6x30 finder which push in one direction like a corkscrew. Moreover It is highly useful to perform a third balance pointing the scope to the zenith, and assuring the tube does not move in declination, to preserve the balance when pointing the zenith I put the camera and the guide scope at 180 degrees, this has a problem when imaging low latitude objects because the camera can hit the mount, so some care has to be taken. I will post a picture with my set up later. Cheers.
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Hi Adam, I had the same double reflection spikes, after posting my doubt here I moved back the guiding tube from the original forward finder position to a piggyback set up over a solid dovetail screwed between the rings. My guiding scope weight is around 1 kg (2 pounds), so the torsion moments created on the secondary plus the main camera weight were to much for the thin spiders. Moreover the added dovetail reinforces the stiffness of the whole set-up. The previous double cluster picture was made with the new set up. Cheers.
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I did try something last weekend, when the weather conditions all around were superb, unfortunately I made a silly mistake and the guiding did not work properly. I need to persevere. Only one 60 secs sub of the double cluster. Apologizes for the quality.
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Just for curiosity Stamos, which refractor did you buy?. A colleague has recently received a SW Spirit 100 and he says that the scope optics is from another world.
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