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Susaron

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Everything posted by Susaron

  1. Carol, I think that´s the focuser drawtube protuding the light cone. Cheers. Mario.
  2. Try to use 15 secs subs for the core Fakhri, in order to have a better defined trapezium. I think with 32secs subs is overexposed. Anyway in Hapha it looks awesome. Need to find the time to test my new Optolong Halpha 12nm.
  3. Thanks Alacant, I forgot to ask the same for APT Dither Seetings
  4. Talking about dithering with PHD2, can anybody post a screenshot of its PHD2 dither parameters please?. Twice I have tried to dither with phd2 but it seems to be unable to stop the dither loop and continue with the exposures, so I guess my parameters are not correct. Cheers. Mario.
  5. I do use the 130PDS for visual duties as well, it is a perfect grab and go telescope for your holidays. I use an AZ4 mount along with the AZEQ5 pier tripod, all the pack fits in a sports bag. Cheers.
  6. On your left corner you have the NGC436 cluster as well, this little scope allows these wide fields.
  7. Yes the Optolong are Chinese less expensive "copies" than the Astronomiks. if you want to take a look to the transmission curves, Carlos Tapia a Spanish physicist student who works in the faculty laboratory, has characterized every filter he can find or borrowed. Take a look to his page and the comparison among the Optolongs and the Astronomiks. http://www.carlostapia.es/curvas_filtros/Comparison_UHC.html Needless to say I own the UHC/OIII/CLS and an incoming Halpha from Optolong, I am actually very happy with them, the vision of the Veil Nebula with the OIII is simply astonishing
  8. Galen go for an IDAS LPS D1, you won´t regret, it is an excellent LPS filter, take a look to my pictures taken last month with first quarter moon. Moreover today I have seen excellent pictures taken with the Optolong UHC filter from the Double cluster in the Spanish forum www.astronomo.org, and it seems to be another and cheapest option as it does not change the colors of the stars. Cheers.
  9. Just a small retouch with Fitswork sharpening tool (Gaussian), hope you don´t mind.
  10. This can be considered an abbuse. A 130PDS dual binocular astrophotograph destroyer. You can call it HMS 130. :-) I have plans to make the same dual pair with a Zenithstar 61 for the DLSR to increase even more the field.
  11. Not a CLS, but I tried once with an UHC filter (Optolong) and my unmodded camera 70D, using M27 as target. Even with 60s subs I was able to get a good signal under light polluted skies.
  12. Some pictures from yesterday night, I suffered problems with the new APT 3.40 which hung up from time to time, so with the first quarter Moon and these problems, I went for short pictures of some well-known objects, NGC457 along with NGC436, The Double Cluster and M45. The QHY168C set-up was Gain 6, offset 2 (to clip the briliant background to some stage), Temp -10ºC. The pictures for the NGC457 and Double are 40x30secs, and 40x60s for the Seven Sisters, no darks, flats or bias. The equipment our beloved 130PDS+AZEQ5+EZG60+ASI120MM. Quick processing with DSS, and PIX (crop+ABE+curves).
  13. Aside from flocking which provides a darker tube, it is a good idea to cover the scope with thin camping carpets, that prevents dew/frost development on cold nights. Even in the driest Spain as we observe at 700-800m altitudes the temperature drops quite fast in Winter and after one hour after dark you can find frost on your metal tube.
  14. I have used the Geoptik ring in my 200PDS, it is pretty good as well, it uses nylon screws instead of metal ones, though for our beloved 130PDS nothing beats the light and hard Moonlite focuser. Just to mention a discussion I had with some colleagues about the suitable drawtube length for the Moonlite focuser mounted on the 130PDS. I went for the 2'' (50mm) drawtube as I wanted the tube for visual duties. There were discussions about if the long drawtube protruded on the light path etc, etc..., I have checked that with the DSLR there was not protrusion, and with the QHY168C I had to push the drawtube till the end of its length to achieve focus, so even less problem with any protrusion. I am indeed very happy with this decision, I am sure that using the qhy with a 38mm drawtube caused me to use any 2'' extender.
  15. This morning Moon Gents before running to work.
  16. Hi mate, Well regarding the shipping costs, because I was the launch customer for the 130PDS tube plate adaptor, I bought the pack directly to Moonlite instead of FLO, that caused a cost increase due to export taxes. You are lucky now because the adaptor for the 130PDS is available at FLO. Regarding the drawtube length I had a discussion with the FLO colleagues, in principle I wanted the 130pds not only for photo but for visual duties as well, so I ordered the 50mm (2'') drawtube. I can assure you that this drawtube does not intercept the light cone in the photo configuration, neither with the Canon 70D nor with the QHY168C. But it is suggested by FLO that a 38mm drawtube is more suitable for astrophotography, then if you want to use the scope for visual duties you can always fit a 2'' extension tube.
  17. With the 130PDS you have a wider FOV closer to the one an ED80 provides. The shorter focal length of the 130 vs the 150 makes guiding a little bit easier, moreover it is lighter. On the other hand the amount of light being captured by the 130 is smaller, but that can be counteracted by longer time exposures. Anyhow a friend of mine has a SW150PDS on a NEQ5 and he is very happy with it.
  18. A ghost moon taken last week while rising with the SW130PDS
  19. This is one of the reasons why I changed the original focuser with a Moonlite one, I have no tilt at all with the QHY168 (just for the record, I measured its weight along with the MPCC and it is around 1150 grams). Regards
  20. The NEQ6 Pro is just the minimum to use the 200PDS for Deep Sky photography, though many people tune the mount with belts in order to have smoother operation. I did use a 200PDS for visual and planetary duties on an AZEQ5 but with the traditional tripod not the pier one as this is too shaky. Cheers
  21. Moon shoot from home yesterday evening with the Canon 70D and the 130PDS Moonlite tuned. ISO 100 at 1/320, series of 5 frames stacked with PIPP, AS2 and little processing with Pix wavelets.
  22. Dear all, Last Friday I went out to the outskirts of Madrid (85 Km Northeast), just to practice with some guiding issues I had in June. While testing I was able to shot a couple of test images, first one is the Tulip Nebula (Sh2-101) along with the NGC6781 cluster in Cygnus (3 subs of 4min, with no calibration frames), the second one is well-known, M11 (13 four min. subs), with no calibration frames. Pictures taken with the QHY168C at Gain 10, Offset 4, RGGB Debayer, Temp -10ºC Cheers.
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