Anthonyexmouth

Would anyone here know where I could get a new screen for one of these? Mine is unused but in a freak accident a few weeks after buying my mount I dropped a screwdriver directly on the LCD panel and cracked it. I've never really needed it because I've always computer controlled but I was cleaning a drawer out and found it the other day and really wished I could repair it for a "just in case" moment. 

I've asked FLO in the past but they couldn't help. 

Happy with either sourcing a new screen or maybe someone out there has a dead hand control. Apart from the screen it's in mint condition. 

26 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Here you go, this one works ok 🙂

IC1396.json 73.66 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks. I'll load that up later and check it out. 

25 minutes ago, barbulo said:

I think it was in the SSD but I'm not sure. But even doing so, just reading 300+ files from any external device is going to slow down the process a lot.

If it only has to copy them once it doesn't really make as difference if I do it or wbpp does it. That's what I'm thinking. Also means I don't have to then waste space on my nvme if I forget to delete the originals

1 minute ago, barbulo said:

I've tried to process images in PI from an external HDD USB3 and the proccess was really slow. I've realized that's better to copy them to the iMac SSD and delete them once the processing's finished. Never tried from my NAS since I believe it'll be worse.

Where did you set your output/working folder? Was that on the external drive? 

10 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

Yes, if you wish I can send you an example sequence

That would be great, thanks

1 minute ago, scotty38 said:

Once you've configured it (on the plugin page) you have a Robocopy Start and a Robocopy Stop in the sequence. Also the start command specifies the location to copy to.

So put the start command it in the startup with camera cool and stop command at the end? 

13 hours ago, scotty38 said:

By the way, if you use Robocopy, even as the plugin in NINA, you can automate copying the files to the NAS. It's exactly what I do.

With that plugin, where does it sit in the process? 

Just now, scotty38 said:

By the way, if you use Robocopy, even as the plugin in NINA, you can automate copying the files to the NAS. It's exactly what I do.

I installed that plugin, but not brave enough to trey advanced sequencer yet. Looks perfect for when I do though. 

6 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

There will always be speed penalties with Pi's as their built-in micro_sd storage, is slower than ssd, emmc devices as used in RockPro64's etc, (which is what I use) 

PI =pixinsight not raspberry pi. 

I've got a MELE quieter3 on the pier, been saving to it's nvme drive and in the morning dragging the subs over to my processing pc. What I am going to start doing is saving to my NAS so at the end of the session all power to my pier can shut down. Then in the morning my subs are on the NAS. I was wondering if I should first drag them from NAS to PC or will the first operation in WBPP start saving everything to my working folder which is set up on my processing PC, so therefore only having to access the NAS files once. 

55 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

What "File Services" are enabled on the NAS e.g. SMB NFS ??   With either enabled, you should then be able to save all captured images directly to the NAS 

Saving to the NAS isn't really my concern. I was just wondering what kinda speed penalty I will get with PI if I leave the subs on the NAS for processing but setup my working folder on the processing PC. 

I'm hoping its just the initial fetch of the files that are then saved with the processing steps onto the PC. 

11 minutes ago, cbrunfranc said:

If you have Synology NAS - You could use Cloud Station to synchronize between your miniPC and NAS, and let NINA copy the file on the miniPC
At least it is more robust, as if there any issue on the connection between your miniPc and the NAS you will not lost your image. I guess it is a wifi connection so more prone to error.

 

 

No, it's all wired. I ran cat6 undergound to the pier with the 240v and 12v when I built it. I'm just wondering about any speed penalty for processing. 

Am I right in thinking, if my working folder is on my desktop but the initial subs are on the NAS the only time it'll need the NAS files is the initial loading, after that they are saved locally?

Since installing my pierside mini PC a month or so ago I've been dragging them across in the morning from the pier, but want to now have NINA save directly to the NAS so at the end of the session it can shut the pier off. 

4 minutes ago, OK Apricot said:

That's a very nice bit of kit. Unfortunately I don't have the slightest know-how when it comes to computers and the like - I can (just about) use one let alone build one! 

Just to brainstorm a little... Along with the usual DSO imaging, I'm thinking I may want to get a large ish SCT in the future for planetary. Excuse my terminology here... I'm going to need USB 3.0 ports, hi-res screen, high fps (50+?), a quad core i7 sounds good? My current laptop is 2.6GHz so maybe looking for around 4GHz+? Don't know what RAM is for but throwing numbers about, 8GB? Would probably pick up an external 1TB+ hard drive, decent battery life wouldn't go amiss but not essential 🤔.

Sorry for that rambling, just trying to get across my needs without really the ability to communicate them! Do any particular models on the current market pop out? 

More ram the better. 16gb minimum.

Don't use your good processing computer for telescope control. Repurpose your old laptop to do telescope control and imaging. 

Just now, vlaiv said:

Yes, you are properly sampled and nothing to be gained by drizzle.

Thanks. That'll save some time and disk space. 

18 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

I'm aware of what astronomy tools gives, and I think it is completely wrong.

I started a thread with explanations as to why it is wrong and giving much more accurate account of the whole thing (with background info and sources) but nothing was really done to remedy that and apparently many members disagree with me (or facts, not sure how to put it):

 

I was not referring to image itself, but color information in image - it does look better, or rather more accurate.

Non drizzled version seems to have teal tone to it, with reddish dust lanes and reddish/white core.

Drizzled version looks much more realistic in terms of color - central part of galaxy mainly contains yellow stars and should be therefore yellow. There is a bit more of hot young stars in spiral arms that are light blue. Dust lanes are brown.

All match what is expected in such galaxy.

 

Ah ok, so probably, the colour is down to my processing skills or lack of at the moment 

If my fwhm is hovering between 1.2 and 2 on my subs I should or shouldn't worry about drizzle?

12 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

Very nice, could you supply any details of the case you used? thinking of building something similar myself...

Alan

https://amzn.eu/a1PxEFa hope this link works. 

Originally I planned a cooler master nr200p but decided this would be ok and I'll transplant into that bigger sff case when I want a gou

3 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

That is in pixels right?

You are then right where you want to be (maybe a bit over sampled actually ) - if your FWHM is 1.6px - then you are properly sampled. If it is less than that, you are under sampled - higher than that and you are starting to get into over sampled territory.

Don't bother with drizzle, but do see about that color. It does look better in drizzled version (not sure what the reason is).

The drizzle (bottom) looks better? 

I thought the non drizzle was less muddy looking. 

Astronomy tools gives me this. 

10 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

I would not trust it.

What is FWHM of your stack (in either pixels or arc seconds)?

Drizzle 4.2

Non-Drizzle 2.2

the stack itself ranged from 1.2 to 2.0

That's according to subframe selector in PI. 

Just now, Stuart1971 said:

First of all why are you drizzling…? Are you well undersampled…?? 
I actually prefer the non drizzle version, as much more structure detail showing…👍🏻

I much prefer the non drizzled one, but why can't I replicate it with the drizzle?

Astronomy tools says i'm slightly undersampled

Heres the image. One with drizzle the other without. same calibration frames and subs. 

Cant for the life of me get the same nice colour as I get with the non drizzle version? Or is the drizzle version a better colour? WDYT?

No Drizzle

Drizzle

50 minutes ago, OK Apricot said:

So I think I'm in need of a new laptop. I currently have a refurbished Lenovo Thinkpad T430 which is decent on paper, but it's got issues where it'll have a seizure and shut itself down, it's not reliable enough in the field for acquisition (so swapping to ASIair soon) but it's not really great for processing which is the main thing. The screen resolution is low, colours are weird, it'll take a while just to respond to change levels on a 9MP image. So, I'm in the market for something purely for processing. It will have to be a laptop as space in the house, and budget, doesn't really allow a large desktop. 

I came across the Acer swift 3 which looks to have a decent spec? What do you use for processing? Recommendations for a piece between £700-£900?

Thanks 🙂

I was using an old 4th gen i7 gaming laptop until recently. I decided it was getting slow and very hot trying to process, WBPP took ages. Built myself a SFF PC, AMD 5700g with 64gb ram. WBPP flies by now. 140 subs with calibration frames and drizzle takes about 50 mins. 

All in cost me about your budget. Allows me an ok upgrade path in the future if I want to put it in a larger case with a GPU. 

15 minutes ago, pipnina said:

More likely a problem with the design. USB hubs, dedicated or integrated, are almost never built to meet the actual needs of the USB standard, or are incomplete. Sometimes the software even shuts down devices that don't communicate for a while which can cause a host of issues for astronomy.

Much like the typical USB hub built into a PC monitor, the USB hub in a camera is to be avoided if at all possible...

Couldn't disagree more, paying over 1000 sometimes much more, if a component of a camera isn't working then it should go back to be fixed until it does. 

If the USB 3 ports in my £400 monitor didn't work it would be warranty issue too. 

Only issue over ever had with a camera hub was due to a 120mm camera needing  firmware update. 

The most common usb issue I've had has been crappy cables. Although not the most expensive, since using exclusively Lindy cables usb connection issues are nearly non existent

29 minutes ago, pipnina said:

 

My RisingCam 571 hub couldn't handle ANYTHING. Even the autofocuser and filter wheel would randomly disconnect from it. I wouldn't trust a camera hub with diddly squat. Maybe a dew heater?

Surely that's a warranty issue. 

4 minutes ago, OK Apricot said:

I haven't tried that, but will give it a go next time. I'd bought the standalone hub as I read the camera hub wasn't very reliable, but two nights at the same site under similar conditions with two different hubs gave similar results. 

I think most on-camera hub issues stem from people expecting too much from it. 

worth checking the firmware on the cameras. 

Does drizzle in PI mess with the colour?

Got a fairly nice M31 image yesterday, added more data last night and thought I'd drizzle as im borderline undersampled. I've tried this in the past and always makes processing difficult for me. Is it my shortcomings or is this a quirk of drizzle?