r3i

8 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

I think there are just two Steve.

Olly

I'm pretty sure it's 3.

3 hours ago, LightBucket said:

That doesn't look like the original focuser cable...is it hard wired into the focuser ??if not there are much smaller jack to jack cables with smaller right angle 5mm jack plugs available....

I'd agree that it does not look like the original jack.  If you google images for "LX200 GPS Panel" and also for "Meade 1209 electric focuser", images show a significantly smaller jack.

I knocked up a DIY focuser using a cheap motor like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/361389342262?

This was connected to the focuser using a belt and pulley. The motor is controlled from a PC via a not so cheap Shoestring FCUSB interface  http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Imagers-Shoestring.asp?p=0_10_5_0_5_40 but there are probably cheaper options.

Congratulations on both rising piers

A rising pier would give me a lot more lower angle western sky coverage but to biuld something strong enough and rigid enough to take what I put on it, including an EQ8 mount, would require a fair amount of engineering

Pier Tech in the USA do commercial offerings but at a price.: http://www.pier-tech.com/

 I have run the chip set program and the chip in my EQDIR module is a PL-2303H.  Is this the same chip version that you Tinker1947, Skipper Billy and r3i are using?

Amdy

I've run the checker on my kit and it also reports that it is a PL-2303H chip.

I've run with the V10518 on my Win10 laptop for protracted periods without any problems.

FLO have kindly provided links to both the driver and installation instructions that allow the adapter to work on Win 8 & 10: http://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/hitecastro-eqdir-adapter.html

Interesting, this kit is also a new one on me. Does it give any clues as to whether it's the primary or secondary mirror that needs the adjustment?

Great progress, it's looking very smart.

Sounds ideal. See if you can get a postcode for me. I could try it myself ;-)

http://goo.gl/maps/iVcSU

The main challenge with getting the OAG up and running is to get the imaging and guide cameras in focus at the same time. This is best achieved during the day when you have plenty of time to spare, by pointing your rig at a distant target such as an electricity pylon. This should get you pretty close and you should only need a small adjustment during your first imaging session.

I've got the Atlair 8" version and with an OTA weight of 7.5kg it sits well on the NEQ6.  I was also tempted by the 10" but is considerably more expensive and heavier at nearly 16kg so I erred on the side of caution. 

The Astro Physics CCD67T focal reducer works well with these scopes.

Another died in the wool CdC user here.  It does take a bit of effort in the initial setting up and getting familiar with its functions but after that, it is simply superb for scope control.

I'd agree that Stellarium has better visual appeal, but if your primary requirements are for scope control then I'd recommend CdC rather than Stellarium.

Merlin,

It did not require it for the LX, worked like a dream, prefer it to the Meade program which I have to say is in need of a face lift.

Alan

IRIC, comprehensive documentation is available on how to interface applications to Meade LX scopes (e.g. http://www.meade.com/support/LX200CommandSet.pdf). So quite a few third party developers have implemented direct interfaces to Meade kit in their applications rather than having to go via ASCOM.

I will try it but 2004? not 2014,

Alan

Oops, yes 2014 it is Was getting mixed up with Asteroid 2004 BL86

It's proper designation is: C/2014 Q2 (Lovejoy). At least this is what I've loaded into The SkyX, and what is on my Stellarium screen as well. Stellarium loaded this automatically - I did'nt touch it! The Stellarium-team never ceases to amaze me.

Clear Skies & Tails,

Dave

Yes. you're right that C/2014 Q2 (Lovejoy) is its proper designation and that also works in CdC.  I just happened to find that leaving off the initial "C/" worked too.

Can you try entering 2004 Q2 (Lovejoy) into the search field on the toolbar, hit the enter key on the keyboard and that should put the comet into the centre of the chart.

Great work Mike, and nice pics of the interior fitting out.  Congratuations

Mine is white too.  Seem to be pretty solid and certainly helps keep your gear clear of your tripod or pier.

I find there's a few improvements I need to do before I can use mine again (unless it dries up).  All this wet weather has turned the lawn into a swamp and until I can get some sort of self draining path from the house to the obsy it's a definite hazard from slipping.  We have never had such a prolonged spell of heavy rain before and until now the drainage has been sufficient.  Now even with the odd clear night now and again I really don't want to risk it as there's nobody to come and rescue me if I damage myself.  I'm not as fit as I was and I know how easy it is to fall and break something.

Stay safe Gina .

One of my 'post build' improvements was to lay a path between the observatory and the house - I paid for somebody to do it as I'm no good at getting slabs level. 

Not only has it stopped a quagmire being formed around the observatory entrance and stopped me trailing mud into the house, it has tied the observatory nicely into the rest of the garden.

Hi Mike,

To be honest, and I've said this on so many build threads, often things pop up that you overlook in the planning stage and often its a case of winging it as you go.  Ok yes, plan the main concept, the overall size, if / where / what size warm room, roof construction, how the roof will roll, flip, open etc, but often what happens is that you come up with a better way of doing something when you put the thing together. 

I found that having a plan helped me most in quantifying how much wood etc. I was going to need.  My build then pretty much followed my original plan apart from rolling roof which, in the end, I made up as I went along.

having an observatory, given the UK climate turns observing / imaging into a brand new ball game, as you can take advantage of the gaps between showers and clouds.   It also means that sometimes you can go out, image a subject and then close the observatory down and start processing the images, where as before I wouldn't  have even set up the scope

Absolutely - your scope time increases dramatically.

Hi guys,

Is unlucky me again.

I am amazed how you all have no issues working with AT. Perhaps I'm a moron. 

This evening I tried to use AT under real sky.

If I do not check  "sync scope" or "re-slew" or "repeat...", AT solve the plate in under 10 sec. But if I check those options, the program freeze and is impossible for me  even to close it. The message is "re-centering..." and that's it.

I finally joined the party last night and gave AT a go.  Many thanks to Gib007 for the excellent tutorial as it was a big help in getting the application configured correctly.

I encountered exactly the same problem with AT hanging with the 're-centering' message after the first plate solve and synch operation.  I'm using Neb3 with a QHY8L and  CdC  & EQMOD with the NEQ6.

After a bit of trial and error I appear to have got it working - I had a few alignment points already saved in EQMOD from my previous alignment process.  If I deleted these from EQMOD, then AT worked nicely. 

Having got over that glitch I was very impressed with AT's capabilities - it makes light work of getting a target centred in the FOV, and I'll definitely be using it on a regular basis from now on.

Nice picture Gina but why do the stars have that "pink" hue? They don't look natural to my eyes.

That's a common occurrence when combining individual NB images into a colour image.  See this thread for a similar example and methods to address it: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/199303-flying-horse-nebula-ngc-7380/

Hi John Great right up and great images.

Im just about ready to press buy at this point, though I have one question for you first, do you have to use any form of dew prevention with this scope?

I currently image with refractors and an SCT all with dew bands around the front element which keep them dry even on the dampest night, but I used to use a newt and on very damp nights the primary would dew over so I'm wondering if you have experienced this with the RC, and if so how you deal with it?

I could put a dew band around the bottom of the tube but I'm not sure how effective that would be as the mirror is not in contact with the tube.

Lee

Whilst the RC isn't as susceptible to dewing as the corrector on an SCT, they do dew up eventually on damp nights.

I've wrapped a band around the bottom of the tube - it does seem to help but I take your point that there's a gap between the mirror and the tube wall so it isn't going to be as efficient as one used to warm up an SCT corrector.

I've also got a Kendrick heater on the secondary: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/123768-gso-8rc-secondary-dew-heater/#entry1337437  Originally I just had a strap wrapped around the secondary: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/127421-ikharos-ik-rc10cft-10-f8-cf-truss-tube-ritchey-chretien-by-astrophad/#entry1266658 - this increases the already large central obstruction but whether this has a material effect on the imaging, I couldn't say.

Well done Carole - looks great and looks like it's going to be a success.

Interesting modification to your POD Carole, hope it resolves the zenith issue.  As Gina said, none of us have the benefit of hindsight, and it's only after we gain experience that we have those "should have done it that way" debates with ourselves.  Each observatory design involves compromises but at least with this modification you can offset one of them. 

Looking forward to the next set of pictures.

I normally squirt some WD40 into a clean milk or soft drink bottle cap. Dip a cotton wool bud into it, then run around both the male and female threads before joining the items together, especially filter threads when new. Seperate them. Apply a thin layer of Vaseline and use the other end of the cotton wool bud to remove any excess.

I also apply Vaseline to the draw and focus tube on my TeleVue Ranger and anything else that is threaded, (ie eyepiece locking screws, etc).

I have an old tin of 'easing oil' - applying a small amount of that and leaving for 10 minutes has done the trick.  Something like WD40 should be fine too but I wouldn't spray it directly as it will tend to go everywhere - as you say spray a bit into a small receptacle then carefully pour into th elocked threads.

I must however get into the habit of applying some boot polish or vaseline or something before I re-assemble stuff because I keep coming across this problem.