emyliano2000

22 hours ago, john2y said:

This is what I've come up with, I've never seen data so clean, so well applied flat and everything and yet I had trouble denoising it which quite suprises me and I don't know the cause of that. I started by resampling it by 50% then manual DBE, TGVDenoise, LRGB combination as HOO, Masked stretch, Lum mask and playing with curves, Range mask and another curves and then ACDNR for smothing the background. 

What filters are you using, they seem really good. I'm asking as I use ZWO and they're not the best. 

Johny, that looks great. My processing skills are not the best and I still have a lot to learn. I'm using the baader filters.

I'm not sure where the noise comes from to be honest.

Emil

7 minutes ago, fwm891 said:

Hi Steve - The ngc7023 image is completely worked through in PI. Here is my WF for that image:

Blink (to weed out the bad subs), Debayer, Cosmetic Correction (lights to respective darks), Star Align, Integrate, Dynamic crop, ABE or DBE, Background neutralisation, colour calibration, Multiscale Linear Transform (mild dose to remove background noise), Histogram Transformation (to set back point and some colour adjustment), Colour saturation (tend here to push the saturation high across the range), Histogram Transform (here I try to neutralise the oversaturation), Colour saturation (reduce saturation levels to normal and make minor adjustments to the saturation curve for specific colours), SCNR if needed, Histogram Transform and save as....

However after doing that on the M20 image I had to open in PS to make final corrections using Select / Colour Range to increase saturation on the central nebula area ....

Francis

 

That looks pretty straight forward, thanks for the WF. Great images. I recently aquired the ASI294MC Pro too and I'm still trying to figure out how to use it. I'm using it with my TS65q at 420mm focal lenght. Planning a trip to a dark location tonight and I wanna see what I get from it as the shots from my light polluted back garden are not very good, they are ok but I would like more out of it. Hoping to shoot the dark shark nebula and add some more to my NGC7023 and the cocoon with the IDAS filter.

What gain and offset settings do you use? I use gain 200 and offset 10 when using a Triband or Ha filter and gain 120 offset 30 with my IDAS filter but I'm not sure they are right.

Here's a couple of my photos.

These are shot with  the triband.

And ngc7023 with the IDAS

Emil

9 hours ago, john2y said:

I'll gladly have a look at that 😉 

Final Stack - Oiii - Pix_Aligned, Cropped.xisfFinal Stack - Ha - Pix_Aligned, Cropped.xisf

5 minutes ago, john2y said:

Sorry for tinkering with your data, I just wanna show what I ment, background does shine, it's not pitch black but it also doesn't shine like the nebula in front of it. If you look at your image, the background in the center is black but outside isn't. I did manually DBE (and yes there was a gradient from the center to the edges) and then just applied inverted luminance mask and using curves I slightly lowerd saturation and brightness of the background. It's jpeg so it's not ideal but you get the gist. 

It's no problem. The black in the center was probably caused by me not applying GradX in photoshop properly. Maybe I should've done a few iterations of DBE instead of only one ABE.

When I get home I could share the stacked fit file and you can have a play with that. With the jpeg it looks like you lost some of the nebulosity.

Emil

39 minutes ago, dave_galera said:

Maybe you could just darken the background a bit

I'm at work now and only have Lightroom on my phone but I pulled the blacks slider down a bit. Does it look better?

52 minutes ago, john2y said:

I know you were trying to pull as much nebulosity as possible but the background doesn't shine like that, what program do you use for processing? It also looks like your flat didn't apply correctly as the edges are much brighter than the center of the image. Overall the data looks really nice so it would be shame if you didn't give the processing another go  

Thanks for the comment Johny. For processing I'm using mostly photoshop.

This one was stacked, calibrated and aligned in pixinsight (my knowledge doesn't go much beyond that). After stacking I aligned the channels then assigned the Ha to Red and Oiii to green and blue (also in pixinsight), applied ABE and with a mask on (not very good with them) I applied Multiscale Liniar Transform to the image.

After that I put it in photoshop and did all the rest.

Just wondering about the flats. The last batch of Oiii was shot on Friday but having to go away the following moring I didn't have time to shoot the flats until yesterday. Nothing was changed in the imaging train but I'm wondering if the focus point shifted in the mean time. Was pretty hot during the break.

Also my Oiii flats are 13sec long, does it matter? I'm using dark flats for the flats.

Emil

I finally managed to finish capturing and processing this target. It was on my list for quite a while and YES, I did it 😁

30x600sec for each of the Ha and Oiii

I love the fov of the QHY183M with the AT106

What do you think? 

Emil

2 hours ago, Shelster1973 said:

I connect all mine through a powered USB hub and have no issues with this.

For a pier install over the distance you mention, you could go two ways with it.  Have a NUC sat on the pier, connect all your equipment to this (either direct if enough ports or with a powered USB hub) and then control this via a remote desktop application.

I have found it to be a great piece of software and prefer to use this over SGP, which I have paid for.  I find it very intuitive and the GUI is well laid and out and very clear

That's exactly how I connect mine. I'm using sgp on the pier but I'm using NINA on my second setup.

Still learning but for the start I like it. I really like the colours.

Thechical details here:

https://www.astrobin.com/420361/?nc=user

Emil

Very beautiful! I tried it too a while ago but couldn't get much out of it from my light polluted back garden.

Ok, this is the final version. The previous one seemed a bit too dark.

1 hour ago, Adreneline said:

Much prefer this version - nice one!

Adrian

14 minutes ago, geordie85 said:

Ditto

Me too 😁

I added the Ha as luminance and did a bit more work on it. Very pleased with how it came out.

Emil

2 hours ago, Adreneline said:

take the OIII (or Blue) image from PixInsight into Photoshop where I apply a star size reduction action from Annie's Astro Actions.

At what point do you do this, right after stacking? I'm mostly using photoshop for my post processing and I probably have all the plugins and action packs possible including Annie's ones.

Do you process each filter before combining them?

Emil

I finally managed to capture everything I wanted for this target and as I have been advised, I stacked and calibrated in pixinsight. 

It is a mixture of 300 and 600sec subs shot with the QHY183M through a SW130pds and AT106.

Roughly 50x300sec and 40x600sec for each filter.

The Oiii filter is giving me these huge halos and not so very small stars which I'm finding hard to tame.

I will try to add a little of the Ha as luminance layer to see if I can make it better.

Emil

On 23/07/2019 at 18:57, steppenwolf said:

I look forward to seeing the finished Ha image.

I finally managed to stack all the Ha

78x300sec with my qhy183m and 130pds and 16x600sec with the qhy183m and AT106.

Emil

27 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

If you could sort out stacking in PI that would be great - it has some advantages over DSS (at least I think so).

- it will calibrate subs using 32 bit precision (I think DSS is limited to doing that in 16bit - at least it was in version 3.3.2 - last I have used, there are later versions now and that might be fixed).

- it can use Lanczos resampling when doing registration / alignment of frames - that is a big plus I believe (DSS uses bilinear / bicubic still?)

PI should provide you with cleaner stack and tighter stars, also try to save your work in 32bit format, preferably FITS - as it is standard for astronomy software.

I'm gonna do my best to stack in Pi from now on. I have the all the stacking steps saved. I followed the LightVortex tutorial and saved each step from start to finish. I never used subframe selector but I run them all trough blink.

DSS is at version 4.2.1 now and it does save in 32bit format. I save them as tiffs because I take the stack directly to photoshop and Ps doesn't recognise fits files.

1 hour ago, daz said:

Are the TIFFS because you are stacking in DSS then bringing into PI to process?

If so, could you stack in PI and produce the .xisf or .fits files? And do you have the master darks/flats/bias to go with them?

May as well have the full stack to play with

 

Yes, I stacked in DSS and I do my processing in photoshop. I only use Pi to sort them out with Blink and sometimes for stacking but I do it the long way and it takes me a while so if I only have data shot with one setup I tend to do it in DSS. I don't know much about Pi, I don't even know how to stack using the batch processing.

I already had a go at stacking in Pi and something wasn't quite right so I gave up and did it in DSS.

I think it would be faster to put them on a stick and post them to you. 🤣

Please guys, have a go at my data, I'm just curious. 

https://we.tl/t-fIe7EhfUsq?src=dnl

10 minutes ago, alan potts said:

Many thanks for that, may have a bash at it with the Canon.

Alan

This is a winter target in the Auriga constellation so you might have to wait a bit until it's up in the sky again.

I shot it at the beginning of March.

6 hours ago, vlaiv said:

what you need is to get more data on fainter wavelengths until you get acceptable SNR

Maybe I should increase the exposures for the faint ones. I had a search online and found that I can go up to 600sec with the qhy183m and the AT106 in narrowband under my sky conditions. I remember a while ago I even did 900sec with a dslr on a 1000mm f5 newtonian and I got really good results on targets close to Zenith.

Maybe I should even try some 900sec to see what I get, I'm pretty sure the mount can handle it, since I put it on a pier my guiding is great.

1 minute ago, vlaiv said:

Another trick that you can use is to use Ha as luminance layer and compose in similar fashion as you would LRGB, but in this case it will be HSHO (LRGB). This depends on target and you need to examine your stacks in each wavelength to see if indeed Ha covers everything.

That's a very good tip. Thank you very much 😊

Emil

1 hour ago, vlaiv said:

I think that you've got OIII and Ha colors/shades real good in second image, but I think that you are missing SII or brown/red component - and hence trick question

You are right. Looking at the stacked Sii photo I can see where the Sii is but as you said, you can't really distinguish it in the SHO photo

I have another question. Looking at the Ha, Sii and Oiii stacks, the Sii and Oiii ones are quite noisy compared to the Ha one. I have the same number of exposures for each of them, how come there is so much noise in th Sii and Oiii?

Am I doing something wrong? Should I use different camera settings to get cleaner Sii and Oiii stack?

Here's the link to the files.

https://we.tl/t-fIe7EhfUsq

It's 72x300sec for Ha, 71x300sec for Sii, 73x300sec for Oiii and 23x120sec for each of the R,G and B

20 hours total exposure time

Please feel free to tell me what you think of the data and feel free to have a play with it.

Emil

6 hours ago, Adreneline said:

As for natural colour - what's that?

I was meaning to say, colour that's not too much in your eyes 😁

6 hours ago, vlaiv said:

To me - second one as far as color rendition.

First one in terms of denoise control - second one is full of denoising artifacts. First one has some of them too, but second one is too much.

Also, are spikes artificial? They are way too tight to be natural diffraction spikes. If they are then they have been sharpened quite a bit and stand out from the rest of the image - it is not so sharp.

My guess about them is that they are artificial because some stars have them in first image while not in second image. I personally don't like synthetic diffraction spikes.

Although this seems to be rather popular method of rendering SHO, I have a question for you - can you point out regions of SII from your image?

Indeed I have a lot of denoising artefacts in the second one and I don't know yet how to fix them. The more I stretched the uglier the noise and I ended up with the artefacts when I tried to remove it. 

I added the artificial spikes because the original ones bacame too ugly when I stretched the image. I would love to have nice spikes without feeling the need to add the artificial ones. I am a fan of spikes and because they weren't very pretty I thought of adding them. I won't have them from now on as I don't own a newtonian anymore.

In terms of pointing the Sii in the image, to be honest I could only do it if I look at the Sii stack.

3 hours ago, newbie alert said:

Hi Emil, as above like them both but prefer the colour of the bottom one..scorcher..!

Thank you. Not really happy with any of them to be honest. I would like them to look good even when you zoom in. I don't think it's the data, I think it's my processing skills that are very far from being up to the standard skilled processor.

I would really, really love to see what other people can do with the data. I have the Ha, Sii, Oiii and R, G and B stack all aligned and I will post a download link for them.

Please, please feel free to try your best. I'm sooo curious what can be achieved with data shot from my back garden.

Emil.