Adam J

Sightron Stellarscan 2 x 40 Widefield Binoculars | First Light Optics

Thinking of taking some of these up the mountain in Tenerife. How effective are these types of ultra wide binos at observing the milkyway?

Adam

On 31/01/2024 at 09:51, tomato said:

I emailed Touptek support in China, I explained what happened and sent them a photo of the power PCB for identification purposes. They have just replied and said it needs to be sent to them for inspection via the original retailer so there is a united front on how I should proceed. 

Then again, I suppose the European manufacturers of Astro cameras don’t readily sell spare parts to Joe Public either.

However, it’s good that SW seem to be more accommodating on this issue.

I’ll just wait now until CNY is out of the way.

If by SW you mean Skywatcher than I think that supplying replacement boards for their mounts is part of the business model and probably why they done put protection diodes in any of their products. 

Adam

On 31/01/2024 at 19:58, Monzilla said:

Hi all 

A pleasure to be able to find this forum, some great threads here!

 

I've just purchased a Sky-Watcher SkyMax 127 AZ-Go2 mak and currently looking for small rechargeable power banks/packs to work with this.

I don't want anything big and heavy, just something to last a good few hours out in the sticks, I just don't know what's available. 

Any links would be appreciated

many thanks 

Chris 

Honestly what's wrong with the AA batteries? I run my AZ GTI from AA batteries and it can go for 12 hours or more even tracking. It portability is an issue just out some cheap AA batteries in it. 

3 hours ago, Seti Astro said:

SH2-284 The Little Rosette

 

Isn't SH2-170 the little Rosetta? 

Aside from that nice image well done. 

Above is my image of what I thought was the little Rosetta. 

3 hours ago, Elp said:

I looked at this as ZWOs page doesn't show one, the 183 shows around 80pc too which the 533 camera is often compared to:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-533mc-pro-usb-30-cooled-colour-camera.html

Often, the marketing blurb is questionable so take it with a pinch of salt. Also this is not factoring in the optics which will have a massive bearing on the per sub exposure.

That link gives a relative response as opposed to a absolute response. 

5 minutes ago, Elp said:

Okay, maybe not blind but a less than 20pc pixel response in ha compared to say 80pc with my 533 astro camera, it's no where near as good.

533 mono is not 80% in Ha, its more like 60% according to this chart. 

Now the IMX492 is about the best for Ha response at the moment and that really is about 80%, ASI1600mm pro is about 50%

Adam

On 26/01/2024 at 16:29, alacant said:

 Hi

Nice image.

A few bits we need:
-power supply
-light source for flat frames
-exposure for flat frames.

For now, simply run the whole pp sequence through Siril's vertical banding before registration.

Cheers

 

 

Power supply will be USB, would hope a USB 3 port is being used through. 

On 02/09/2022 at 11:18, andrew s said:

I have been getting a speckle issue with the camera I have been testing . I get a hot pixel surrounded by some cooler ones, see attached. Anyone come across this before? Latest software etc. Any reports at @FLO?

 

Thanks Andrew

 

PS this is intermittent sometime its fine but I can't find any way to consistently cause or cure it.

you need to renew your desiccant. Simple.  All this talk of cooling more slowly may help but it's just delaying the inevitable. 

11 hours ago, skipgazer said:

I've been imaging successfully for two years on my Sky-Watcher Explorer 150P with a modified Nikon D750 - but I now have a new ZWO ASI585MC astro camera so I feel like I'm having to learn things all over again. I have taken some great Moon images, really pleased with those. But an issue that is plaguing my deep sky attempts is obvious, precisely vertical, mostly orange and blue banding in the images. I cannot work out what is causing it. I have attached an overstretched (to highlight the issue) example: 566 x 20", gain 252 offset 10, dithered - but I've tried different settings and it makes no difference. I have stacked in Astro Pixel Processor, which I usually use, and also in Siril - again, makes no difference, the banding is still there. I managed to use Siril's banding reduction to eliminate it, but I'd rather it wasn't there at all. People have suggested maybe my flats are the issue, but it's the same with or without flats, and my master flats look fine to my eye. Any thoughts? There's a UV/IR cut filter and MPCC III coma corrector in front of the camera, fwiw. Is it something about the 585MC?

so I barely see it. 

Are you using dark frames? Flat frames? what are you calibrating the flats with? 

If darks how well temperature matched are they? 

If yes can you post them please. 

Are you dithering, what's your dithering scale?  Can you post a histogram. 

What are your stacking settings, rejection etc. 

Adam

59 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

In one of the two images I have produced so far this season I have noticed these horrible vertical lines as shown in the attached two images.

Red and green were taken before the meridian and appeared at the top left of the image and the blue was taken after the meridian and appeared bottom right of the image.

Given that the colour of the lines matches the filters I am thinking its a camera problem.

Its a 5 year old  Atik 16200 mono CCD and a full set of bias, flats and darks were used to calibrate the image although they are 'library' calibration frames and were taken about a year ago.

Maybe a new set of calibration frames would cure it or maybe my camera is on its way out???

Any pointers or suggestions most welcome!

(I have deliberately overstretched the images to make it easier to see the lines)

so with it being mono this is likely just a single bad column that is moving about between exposures. Just update your calibration frames and it will be fine, this is normal as the sensor ages and it's not on its way out. Sometimes these artifacts even vanish again over time. Also make sure your using bad pixel rejection when stacking. 

A year is too old for cal frames. 

Adam 

1 hour ago, a6400 said:

Hi,

I want to use these both with 1.25" UV/IR filter.

I've heard I will need things like extensions and step up ring.

I really have no clue what do I order EXACTLY to have it to work.

Thanks in advance.

This will hold the 1.25 inch filter Infront of the sensor. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-t2-to-125-filter-holder.html

to get the back focus correct you need the sensor to be 55mm from the M48 thread on the back of the scope. You also need to convert from M48(telescope) to T2 threads on the camera.

This (below) will give 37.5mm and the black ring that comes with the ASI585mc will give you 17.5mm from the sensor for 55mm total. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-m48-to-m42t-adapter-375mm-long-for-175mm-back-focus-cameras.html

That's all you should need. 

Adam 

On 20/01/2024 at 12:41, Vroobel said:

It's difficult to rotate the whole scope while a Deep Sky Dad's EAF adapter is used. Rotation by 90* means turning a focusing ring also by 90* in an opposite direction that causes significant change of the focus point. This affects a whole filters offset settings. The FMA230 isn't a typical refractor. 

Yeah, that's why I made my own focuser adapter and mounted it to the tube itself so that everything rotates as one. You dont need all the complicated sliding stuff he uses as to focus all you need is 5 -10 degrees of total focuser turn, so the longitudinal movement during autofocus is nothing and can be taken up totally by a tiny bit of belt flex. DSD is a over complicated solution. 

Adam

On 13/01/2024 at 23:02, Vroobel said:

I cannot do it, the camera is screwed straight to the EFW, so it's the first part after the camera.

I can experiment and screw in an M48/M42 reduction behind the EFW to check the vignetting. I use an Askar FMA230 which is F/4.6.

 

Why not just rotate the whole scope in its rings? Seems no disadvantage to doing that with the FMA230, it has no focuser to orientate for example and the guide scope wont be attached to the tube, its on the rings. 

Adam

On 10/01/2024 at 11:19, LaurenceT said:

Last night I took a series of 2 minute guided subs of the Elephants Trunk Nebula. After culling I was left with 72 subs which I stacked in APP and finished up with this weird image I've never come across before, no post processing has been done. Explanations gratefully received.

Askar FMA180, Az GTi Asiair Pro.

 

good start, try using the Light pollution removal tool in APP it's very good and will balance your background. There is also a cropping tool in APP that you can use, I would crop the image first. 

16 hours ago, WolfieGlos said:

2) Registering and stacking as one for multiple sessions, is better than stacking the stacks.

Not surprising you are improving your ability to reject outliers by having a larger sample size if you stack the stacks then each stack will incorporate more outliers as the lower number of frames means that they will incorporate additional outlining pixel values into the average value for each sub stack. At that point you would need a very large number of sub stacks to enable outlier rejection to the operate on the stack of stacks (25 or more usually) and you don't have that many sum stacks. 

Adam

2 hours ago, Robneq6 said:

Hi I am looking at the hem 27 and possibly the hem 27 ec

i would be using an ASIAIR pro and autoguiding  and wonder if this would negate the benefits of hem 27 ec

please could anyone  let me know their thoughts and opinions on this and help me get a better understanding so as to make a more informed decision 

many thanks  
regards  Rob

if you are autoguiding don't get the EC version, I have heard some say that the EC can actually end up in a fight with the guiding, not sure on how true it is. But if you are guiding on short exposures ~1second an EC will add very little to the accuracy. Just something else to go wrong. 

Adam

On 09/01/2024 at 22:05, Ags said:

Not sure how much value I can add in a review. I will post my thoughts., but I will only be ordering the mount next month.

am also interested, the main point is backlash on the Dec and guiding RMS and max errors. 

13 hours ago, AstroRookie said:

Apparently I needed a 37,5mm space because that is what the MPCC requires when using a camere with T2 thread.

I tried that and it looks better but far from good. Attached 2 screenshots of a capture with Nina, one with the image  "fit-to-screen", the other 1:1. The stars look weird all over the image. Autofocus does no longer work (plate solving however went ok).

I checked my collimation, and that looks ok

Any idea what is causing this?

top one looks like a guiding error, maybe from the jump at the start of your guide graph? Either way it doesn't look like a camera or corrector spacing issue, it could also be collimation. 

10 hours ago, DaveG64 said:

Thanks guys most helpful I must admit you persuaded me to go down the mini pc route has it has open end ability to it I think I would go for the beelink mini pc plus the deep sky dad power hub that way in the future I can run a Pegasus focus cube or maybe another make . I’ve ordered the Starfield 80 mm apo suggested by Adam J so would the Pegasus fit . Also would anyone be able to run me through how you would connect the cables from the mini pc to the deep sky dad and the various components to the power and mini pc , it would the Mount camera guide camera and would the deep sky dad take dew heaters . Sorry for the lots of questions but I’m not really tech savvy lol 

Interesting question of the dew heaters, I cut the connectors off mine and changed them to 2.1mm connectors like on. the deep sky dad stuff..you can also get some that can be powered by  USB as available on the Deep sky dad power box. Quite a few are available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telescope-Temperature-Regulator-Condensation-Astrophotography/dp/B0BHNNG5FF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1EOOF22J3CXZB&keywords=usb+dew+heater&qid=1704675155&sprefix=isb+dew+heager%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-3

but the better option is to use this:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-21mm-dc-male-to-rca-plug-for-dew-controller.html

with this type (check size) but should be right for your scope. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dew-prevention/lynx-astro-30cm-dew-heater-strap-for-3-telescopes.html

Yes the Pegasus should fit the gear 80.

The deep sky dad is just power distribution. One 12-13.8volt input, place it on the scope and the the rest of the jacks are outputs. 2.1mm are 12volts and the USB will supply 5volts, to be clear it's not a USB hub, you may need one of those too. If you put the mini pc on the top plate the you don't need a USB hub just plug directly to the PC. 

So (12 -13.8 volt power supply) to (Deep Sky Dad Power hub) to (Camera / Dew Heaters / Mini PC / Mount / Focuser etc). 

You will want a 12volt 10amp supply if you don't have one already. Don't cheap out on it...

Adam

1 minute ago, Richard_ said:

I may have missed, but I didn't see a recommendation for an auto focuser. 

If you're going the ASIair route, your only choice will be the ZWO EAF.

If you're going the mini-pc route, there's a lot more options since you can use any brand. I've tried a couple of different auto focusers and my favourite so far has been the pegasus focusers cube v2. There is a new v3 available, but I haven't used this version so cannot comment on the differences. 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-accessories/zwo-electronic-automatic-focuser-eaf-5v.html

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pegasus-astro/pegasus-astro-focus-cube-v3.html

Yes I have a V1 and a V2 Pegasus focus cube. 

Adam

13 hours ago, DaveG64 said:

If I went for a non ZWO camera and then obviously mini pc route would I not need a Powerbox too of some sort to power all the ancillary equipment 

Looks like FLO also sell Mini PCs but you might get the same model cheaper on AMAZON. 

Beelink GKMini 8GB Memory 256GB SSD Mini PC | First Light Optics

Adam

13 hours ago, DaveG64 said:

If I went for a non ZWO camera and then obviously mini pc route would I not need a Powerbox too of some sort to power all the ancillary equipment 

DC HUB 2 v2 - Deep Sky Dad

or via FLO but it will cost you more:

Deep Sky Dad DC Hub 2 v2 | First Light Optics

Adam

1 hour ago, DaveG64 said:

Hi guys I’ve decided to go for the Starfield gear 80 f6 triplet that Adam J recommended so what would be a good CMOS /CCD camera to go with this I was thinking about £1000- £1300 

Honestly I would go with the Altair I recommended:

Altair Hypercam 26C APS-C Colour TEC Astronomy Camera 16bit (altairastro.com) 

It is exactly the same camera as the one Olly just recommended but under a different brand and cheaper even.

Its the same sensor as the ASI2600mc and will perform exactly the same and you will have UK support from Altair. 

I know its not in stock but 2-3weeks is not a long time to wait considering the savings. 

Horsehead Nebula (Barnard 33) (Dustin_Lee_Astrophotography) - Full resolution | AstroBin

Example image.

If you must have ZWO then you choices in that range are:

ASI071

ASI533mc / mm

ASI294mc 

I don't recommend the 294mc for a beginner, the ASI071 is a older but still capable sensor and the ASI533 is as discussed small.....

A difficult choice, but I might actually say the ASI071MC Pro....see this video, its a look at the 2600 vs the 071 sensors. 

Adam

10 minutes ago, DaveG64 said:

Thanks I’m replying from another user name as I couldn’t get back on with my other account for some reason kept getting kicked out . Adam J I see what you are saying but don’t mind being tied to one company for now as obviously just starting I do  like your recommendations though what do you think about the IOptron HAE 29 imate with ipolar that way you can run everything through the Mount via drivers not sure how you power things like cameras etc though I suppose through a power block like the Pegasus Astro power box .Elp I like your advice too yes I understand that a good proportion of expenditure should be on the mount , I will have about £5000- £6000 to spend so would be willing to spend £3000-£3500 on a decent mount and tripod then buy cheaper cameras and scope then upgrade those in a couple of years 

Honestly, I cant make a recommendation on imate as am not familiar with it.  But so long as you have a guide camera then I will say that you don't need to pay more for  Ipolar. My opinion is that nothing gets close to NINA at the moment, it just does it all.  I guess that if it's cheaper than a mini pc and HEM27 combined and Ipolar is well integrated then it could be attractive for that reason. 

2 hours ago, Dave grim said:

Hi guys 

I'm after some help please I've just ordered a refurbished Lenovo T480 laptop with 32gb memory and 1tb ssd I'm planning on using it for processing images of deep sky . I haven't bought any Astro equipment yet so was after help really . I was thinking of ZWO AM5 mount , William Optics Zenithstar 81 , William optics guide scope , ZWO ASI 120mm guide camera , ZWO ASI533 colour camera and ASIair plus 256 gb to control everything , been reading lots of stuff on this and watching you tube vids was thinking of going this route as everything seems very easy to set up . Or do people think I should go down the mini pc route , I would want to upgrade scope and possibly mount in 3/4 years so very open to suggestions please 

cheers 

Dave 

I would always go mini pc as ASIair it way too limiting from my perspective in terms of what you can use with it (only zwo devices), I dont like the idea of allowing a single company to become my only viable supplier.  

As for the rest, its true that the AM5 will be an great place to start in terms of mount, however its very pricy £2580 with tripod....so a large part of your budget is going to drop on it. Its effectively pushing you into getting doublet optics and a smaller OSC sensor. Other cheaper options still provide ample performance at your intended focal length.

iOptron HEM27 Hybrid Harmonic Drive Equatorial GoTo Mount | First Light Optics

or even the AM3.

That would let you get a triplet and corrector.

Starfield Gear80 80mm f/6 Triplet APO Refractor | First Light Optics

and potentially a larger senor like this: 

Altair Hypercam 26C APS-C Colour TEC Astronomy Camera 16bit (altairastro.com)

All in all you will have a more balanced and higher performing system for your money. 

The AM3 is going to handle up to a 100mm refractor easily and the HEM27 certainly will and more. 

Heck even the mini PC is likely to be cheaper than the ASI Air I paid £140 for my mount PC 5 years back and it runs everthing great, you don't need a high performance model a celeron with 8gb ram is fine. 

Adam