souls33k3r

Cheers mate, most certainly will be needing that for sure

Wow! That's not bad at all mate. I am impressed, especially with the LP and then also how pinpoint your stars are. Ok given it was only 30s exposure but imaging what you can achieve with much longer exposure.

Nice one mate. Yeah I've seen good results with the LRGB set so far but then saying that I live in a light polluted area so no matter what I choose, it won't be as good as I would've expected, ZWO or otherwise, I wasn't willing to spend more on a good set of them bad boys. NB filters is a different ball game, am getting the 1mm thin NB filters which I've be told have proper edges that will a lot in to ZWO EFW nicely. Time shall tell

A bit off topic, how good are their LRGB filters? And also any issues with their FW ?

Lol, sorry Craig bad habits mate. @fielderda:Ok this is what I was thinking, the T-adapter for Celestron EdgeHD 8" is 78.3mm which has like you rightly pointed out can be split in to two parts, one 50mm and the next 28.3mm. Assuming I use the complete set, below are my calculations and in this order: Using 0.7x reducer brings the back focus down to 105mm CMOS (6.5mm) > ZWO EFW (20mm) > Celestron T-adapter for EdgeHD 8 (78.3mm) That is 104.8mm... So I dot think I'll need any extra spacers since I already do own the T-adapter

Hi All, I was about to jump on the ASI1600 bandwagon but one thing that i'm not too sure of is the configuration of this setup. I currently have a 0.7x reducer which will be used with this CCD, i'm looking to buy the ASI1600MM-C along with it's ZWO 8 POS FW and to keep the cost down i am looking to purchased ZWO LRGB set and then save up for Astrodon 1.25" or a 31mm NB set. So what i know is that as soon as i introduce the reducer, the back focus is brought down to 105mm. Can anyone help me with the spacers that are required here? also where will the go in the image train/order of it (pics are always welcomed) Maybe i've got this completely wrong but i am under the impression that it will be in the below order 0.7x reducer > some spacers to cover the remaining back focus > filter wheel > CCD What i was suggested as the spacers is http://www.365astronomy.com/Baader-Varilock-46-Lockable-T-2-Extension-Tube.html Thanks in advance

If you like some help with the FOV, try this link. I hope this helps. But trust me, imaging without the reducer or an OAG is going to be like pulling teeth ... EdgeHD 8 is a fantastic scope, don't get me wrong but at it's native focal length its best suited for planetary imaging. For DSO or faint objects, you will need a tracking mount, a reducer, an OAG which will then lead you in to CCD area, you'll then need a guider, filters ... it's a money pit lol http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/

Because i own one and i know the issues i would say "No". The back focus will be the main problem. Allow me to explain, imaging at native f/10 is going to be impossible, you will need to introduce a focal reducer which will being the scope down to f/7 (1422mm), when you introduce the reducer, you have already eaten up the back focus. EdgeHD 8 total back focus is 133.5, when you bring in the reducer it will bring it down to 105mm. Now the Nikon DSLR will have a back focus of 55mm, you will need an OAG to guide of course for longer exposures (longer than 2 min) which will eat up another 29mm and the DSLR T-ring will eat another 48mm. So DSLR 55mm + OAG 29mm + DSLR T-Ring 48mm = 132mm which is way more than 105mm so impossible. I would suggest, go with a refractor. Don't make the same mistake i made. Hope this helps