Dazzyt66

44 minutes ago, Lee_P said:

Great! I'm tempted to make a website dedicated to OSC imaging from city skies. We're a particular niche. Could be a project for the Summer...

I think that would be brilliant and even though I use a DSLR I’ve had to trawl through loads of info with lots of trial and error as LP/lighter skies makes such a difference on what’s possible with AP (although I’m happy to try anything your thread on LP filters saved me some time AND money! 🙏) - and I do it mainly so my wife and kids can see what’s out there from our back garden too rather than me just looking through a lens 😄

Another great Bortle 8 test from @Lee_P - I’m just getting into imaging (from Bortle 8 skies) so all this info is VERY useful and as I’m able to automate my sessions now 10 hours of subs seems doable (although I’d be pretty much happy with the images after 5! 😂).

Good work sir!

On 29/04/2021 at 00:36, Celestron4 said:

Also worth adding, I’m looking at automating (in a loose sense) my setup a bit to allow me to leave it running overnight. The DSLR can be powered with an AC adaptor and I might move towards using a Raspberry pie to run the imaging setup. Is there anything that stands out as potentially helpful to achieving this?

I use Astroberry with an RPI4 using Ekos scheduler to perform my imaging overnight. I don’t have autofocus so I basically set it up with a Bahtinov and then schedule the target to run as many images as I can get in. I’m unguided so limit to an hour of 30s subs and then rerun the same set over again so it re-plate solves. Seems ok so far and I’ve had some good results. I do my bias and flats when I get up (the white t shirt method at dawn)

Personally, I now use option 2 (EQMod cable), which is very good. Prior to that I used the Synscan app to connect my laptop. The EQMod way is far easier and trouble free. I used it with INDI/Ekos/kstars

16 hours ago, Lee_P said:

I think we're in the same boat. Maybe there's a filter out there that would help us with broadband targets, but for now I'm happy to just brute-force it with long integration times. I took the 20 hours of data from my tests, added in another four for good luck, and produced this image. It's not great, and a 400mm focal length scope isn't ideal for these targets, but at least we can get something even with our skies.

 

It even looks like we get similar results - my attempts at same targets with around 4 hours of 30s subs using an unmodded DSLR and no filters...

8 hours ago, rickwayne said:

I actually started building a myFocuserPro, Arduino and all, but I could never get it to move the stepper. Dunno if I soldered something wrong or what.

The huge advantage to the Pi/Waveshare route is that it's so simple. You stack the HAT board on top of the Pi. You connect the 4 wires from the stepper to the HAT board (it literally has 3 different ways to plug it into the board). You get Kevin Ross's indi_wmh_focuser driver. You start focusing.

I used a couple of RJ-11 breakout boards with screw terminals so that I wouldn't have to solder anything, and so that the cable between Pi and focuser is light, secure, and absurdly easy to obtain. The mount for the focuser...it is to laugh. Piece of steel strapping with holes in that we had lying around. I drilled more holes, the motor was already tapped for M2.5 bolts.

The timing-belt pulley goes on the motor shaft, and the belt around the pulley and the coarse-focus knob.

Yeah, That’s exactly the version I was going for - I’ve already installed Kevin’s drivers, so I guess I should probably do the hardware at some point 😂 and I think I have a piece of steel with some holes in too! 😂😂

The 2nd moon image is my fav! I was thinking of getting the 120MC solely for moon and planets too, instead of my 1100d (maybe using it for guiding eventually) and these images are definitely making me think I will get it! Great work! 👏

17 minutes ago, Lee_P said:

My tests seem to support this. I am assuming that it's LED lights swamping my skies though -- I don't know for sure that they're widely used in Bristol, but I wouldn't be surprised.

I live in Bortle 8 (Doncaster) which is pretty much all LED now plus I live on a new estate which is definitely all LED so I’ve read this with interest - I was looking to maybe get a LP filter at some point, but now I’ve seen comparisons I don’t think they really make enough difference to justify. Great comparison! 😊

6 hours ago, barbulo said:

What DIY solution do you refer?

There’s also a non Arduino version code written by a guy on cloudy nights, if you search on the indi forum (if you are using Ekos) there are a few drivers already written for different motor solutions (the cloudy nights version was the one I was going to do)

This is a greatly informative thread. For me, for the moment, I’m gonna stick with Baht only. I’m pretty handy so could do the AF, but I’m not sure with the ST80 it would bring much more benefit - yeah AF would be nice but I think I’ll relegate it to a future project when I’m better at AP 🙂

3 hours ago, barbulo said:

I’m following this thread closely because I have the same doubts as Daz, except that I’d opt for the ZWO EAF instead of the DIY solution. I’ve considered the latter but having the ZWO for €180... (focuser + temp sensor) I wouldn’t take the risk.

My main concern is how EKOS would manage the autofocusing routine with a DSLR. Does it use the live view or takes pictures? Can perform when the scope is pointing at faint objects, or it needs brighter stars?

Well, thanks to the guys here, I can say I’ve abandoned the AF ideas. The Bahtinov did a great job and I can’t see why I would need to refocus again during the night with the ST80, so for 5 mins at the start I’ll use the mask and the mask assistant in Ekos for now.

Having used the focus module in Ekos with my DSLR (albeit manually) I can confirm it takes images (and auto selects a star from that image to focus on - if you have it set that way). It will then take regular images until focus is achieved (or in my case when I manually stop it after reaching the lowest point possible). I believe if you have an auto focuser it takes an image, adjusts, takes an image and so on until it has established the best part of the focus curve (rather than use liveview). The magnitude of the stars it can detect will depend on what exposure time you have put - I usually go 5 - 10 seconds and haven’t had a problem yet wherever I’ve targeted.

HTH

Daz

Just now, John said:

I have the same from "Clear outside" as well but it's pretty clear here now as it has been all day

I've taken to checking:

Clear Outside

BBC

Weather Channel

and Ventusky

The majority win (last night it was BBC and Weather Channel and Ventusky). Although I also have a crafty look as I let the dog out before bed too... 😂

Last night I used my homemade Bahtinov (cardboard) for the first time. Worked a treat and subsequently checked focus using Ekos Bahtinov assist. Worked a treat.

Went inside, set target as NC1848 - Soul Nebula. Tried to platesolve and failed - never had that happen before? Tried a couple of times and then realised I'd left the mask on the scope! Phew. Close call. I set up my schedule for 4 x sequences of 118x30 seconds stating from 11pm and went to bed...

Got up this morning to see that only 120 images had been taken. Checked the Ekos logs.

The first 2 hours of the sessions failed, the 3rd hour worked and the 4th stopped halfway through cos dawn was coming. Thats OK, I had 120 or so images to stack(?) 

Checked them - the first 30 have half my neighbours house in them, (I'm amazed plate solving worked but it did for the other half of the sky 😂)... the rest have the streetlight lighting up the bottom half of the frame...

Note to self - check where the planned target will be in the sky first! 😒

Don't know about the zero but I have Astroberry running on a Pi4 2 gig all OK with mount and dslr - that said I don't use guiding, but from what I've read about compatibility you should be fine if you go down that route (saves you having to buy a 4gb).

Hi, having just learned the hard way (2 hours of imaging side of neighbours house 😂) I realised I really should add my obstructions into Kstars. I've seen that you can do this by slewing your scope to positions to add points on the horizon? How do you do this? Manually, or by using the eqmod control within ekos and then slew around your horizon adding points? My main issue is side of neighbours house on North side and my house on most of South (I have pretty good views E & W). Any advice appreciated on the easiest way to do this.

Wow! It worked! And the Bahtinov assistant in Ekos is very cool! 👍😀

5 minutes ago, AstroMuni said:

Do you use/planning to use the Bahtinov mask assistant in Ekos?

Yeah, I'm gonna give it a go (I've never used a mask before so never used the assistant) - assuming my mask works of course... 🤞

21 minutes ago, MercianDabbler said:

I did that too. Much cheaper I used printer paper and then sprayed it with acrylic after cutting to keep the damp out. Obviously it's not strong but I wanted to see if it helped before committing to anything that was more effort or money.

I used it once with my SP102. My experience was that the diffraction fringes were less evident than the ones in the 'how to' on the Interweb and so it was less easy to tell when they were properly aligned. I didn't notice any improvement in my end result.

Since then I've gone back to manually focussing using the x10 enlargement on the camera screen. I think that with CA in action there is no ideal focus point, just 'least bad'

Yeah, I've just been watching YT on how to use one!! 😂 Never been so exited about a bit of cardboard! Interesting about the CA - I know I'm gonna get CA but hopefully the mask will give me a little more focus accuracy than I currently get, then it looks like I can lock the focuser down and forget about it for a while...

2 hours ago, Clarkey said:

You could save even more money and make your own Bahtinov mask. I made my 'temporary' one six months ago and I have not felt the need to buy a new one. Eventually I will probably leave it outside and the dew will get at it as it is made from cardboard. But for now I'll save my £30 for some other expensive bit of astro kit!

I've just knocked up my own cardboard bahtinov mask so fingers crossed will get to try that out tonight - and then (if successful) I can think what to spend my £50 on instead...😂

I've been considering building my own RPI based autofocuser next month (when I get my next 'spending allowance' 😂). This will initially go on my ST80 (permanently setup). As per usual I keep doing my research and I came across this thread:

So now I'm torn. I can get the AF bits and a new case for the RPI which'll cost about £60 or I can do the 10p mod that @ollypenriceuses (and do it today) and then buy a Bahtinov mask for about £15.

My question is: I want to be able to do my imaging mostly using Ekos scheduling. At the mo I either check the focus before I start, using focus assist in Ekos (manually until I have the best number) and then lock the focus on the ST80. For subsequent nights I just quickly check the focus numbers in Ekos are roughly what they were previously and leave it to go. Does the focus change overnight due to seeing etc (or if I move to a new target) if doing long sessions? Or once its setup generally is that it for the night? If its the latter then 10p and a Bahtinov seems the way to go given that the ST80 is as basic as it gets (although I do love it!!).

Cheers

Daz

Ola amigo!

Hi,

This is my first 'real' attempt at AP. I'm using an ST80 with unmodded Canon 1100d. The image was done over 3 nights using Ekos and is around 500x30s lights, 60xbias 60xflats. The images were stacked and processed in Siril, with final touches in GiMP and Darktable. I think I've done a good job of removing the CA in post processing but would still appreciate some feedback as this is my first real attempt at doing something 'properly' 😂 I know that focus may be an issue as I did it all manually with no mask... Comments on what I can do to further improve appreciated - I'm not going to go down the ED route as I'm generally happy with what I'm able to get as is atm, but would like to be able to get the most out of it.

I have used DSS a few times in the past and that always mystified me 😂 After watching the video I now have used Siril several times with great results!

18 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

That's great help guys and I'm sure it will certainly help all us EKOSers (is that a word)

it is now! Although @teoria_del_big_bangdid make me LOL!

9 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

Love it.

I'd recommend anyone to have a go with a st80 before spending €silly on other oft recommended telescopes. Any slight aberration can easily be corrected in modern software.

 

Thanks for the kind comments. Having had the ST80 for many years now, she has always impressed me either with visual or now as I try AP. I don't need/want to create world class images but just have fun seeing what I can do with what I've got. I am toying with the idea of the ED80, but I get lots of enjoyment with the ST and I'm not sure now that the gain would be enough to justify the cost when I can get a decent enough (for my eyes/needs) image like this. 👍