Dazzyt66

3 hours ago, malc-c said:

Daz, you do realise the last post was two years ago... I would have thought the issue would have been resolved by now 😉

Yeah, I realised soon a I pressed submit 😂😂😂😂

2 hours ago, BCN_Sean said:

Cool! Just watch out for something that's got me a few times before I realised... When setting it up and connecting it to a HDMI use the port that is closest to the power port as sometimes it looks like the device hasn't finished booting if it's in the other one and it has.

I'm in OK! But I don't have a mini hdmi lead anyway... 😂

This may be a stupid question but how do you change the default server password? I'm logging on OK and can access through my own network or by hotspot (I changed the default there), but I can't for the life of me find where to change the default server password - forgive me - I've only had an RPI for a couple of hours so its all new!

Thanks in advance.

😊

Daz

11 hours ago, Jonny_H said:

I treated myself to an ASIAIR Pro not long ago and it's amazing!

No more laptop, extra cables etc... definitely a game changer! 🙂

Yep! I'm definitely happy with the way things are going - although I think at some point I may miss sitting outside on a crisp winter night and seeing things with my own eyes! 😂

11 hours ago, BCN_Sean said:

I've a couple of Pi for things, one of them for Astroberry and one thing I've found which really does make a difference to them is to not mess around with the MicroSD but set it to boot over USB and then use a fast USB drive or an external SSD.  I use these Sandisk on mine, and they don't stick out like the proverbial sore thumb.

That USB tip is great - I do have an existing 128gb micro card at the mo but was going to go down the USB SSD route at some point so that all my imaging can be stored locally on the Pi initially and then transferred as I want, rather than transfer 'live' over the wifi an possibly slow things down in Ekos. Rpi and astroberry is still a big learning curve for me - the Rpi4 arrives today! 😀

On 05/01/2019 at 16:53, tweeb said:

Hi - Probably wrong Port - should be 11882 - it's incorrect in the documentation.

Hadn't realised that EQMac should work with WiFi. I've been using EQMac and Stellarium and a PL2303 Serial to USB converter for a few years - but my Mac seems to lose connection with the PL2303 Interface sometimes - during a Slew of course so you have to re-align .... Aaargh!

Recently bought a Synscan WiFi Dongle and that works fine with iPhone running SynscanPro App and iPad running SkySafariPlus6 but wanted to get it working with Stellarium on my Mac - so I can integrate it with my Canon DSLR and Guide camera processes - mind you still need wires for all the camera USB connections ? - will have to try EQMac V2 and the TCP/IP Connection in the next day or so! ?

Do you still need the Synscan WiFi connected SynscanPro running on an iPhone, and connect to that, or does it bypass that?

For info I run ALL my capture processes on macOS (Canon Utility, Canon DPP, PHD, EQMac, Stellarium) - only reverting to Windoze via Oracle Virtual Box to run DeepSkyStacker or Registax - then I post-process using GIMP on macOS. Although I sometimes use an ATIK Infinity when I have to use VBox again to run the ATIK Software - works fine.

Cheers

Terry

Hey Terry,

I'm just starting to use Synscan with my Mac. Used to use it like you said (iPhone running app, SkySafari 5 pro on my iPad). I haven't used Stellarium on the Mac but I am now using Kstars - I still need to use the phone to connect to the mount though as there isn't a mac Synscan app until I get an eqmod cable (but I could do it all this on one device using stellarium and the app on my win10 pc). So, I guess to answer your question: yes, you'll still need the phone to run the app when using a mac. Also, if you want to ditch Win completely you could try Siril for the Mac which does DSS and Registax combined - again I've only just started using this too so cant really give a full thumbs up as a replacement yet as I haven't done too much with it.

HTH

Daz

I've just taken the plunge and got a RasPi 4 & FLIRC Case on the way! Been checking out KStars and EKos for the last few days and have it all working on my macbook with my HEQ5 perfectly. So, Astroberry will be my solution now for getting more into AP and pretty much all EEVA. No cables at all running to the house - mount and pi will be powered by powertank when UK weather allows and atm my mount is using the Synscan App (which I still need to use from my phone until I replace it with an EQMod cable direct to the pi next month ). No longer will I need to use a PC for astro stuff and my mac for everything else! It feels quite liberating... 😁

2 hours ago, M40 said:

Strange, I am definitely walking in your footsteps plus we have some of the same family members. There is not yet a Stacie although I am hoping for an Ed in the future 🤪

You and me both 🤞 although my plan has changed from usb cable to raspberry pi 4 and Astroberry - been Kstars etc all week and it’s great and doing same as apt so getting the pi next week 😊

How far away are you from the scope? I sit in my kitchen and do it all remote from my laptop (or my phone for synscan) - its about 15m but works flawlessly. I am going to get a Ras Pi though and will be using Astroberry rather than use a cable to connect the camera.

HTH

Daz

A couple of years after moving to our new home, I’ve finally got my HEQ5 permanently located outside - it’s pretty much polar aligned but I have got to do some final checks (cloud willing).

My hope is to be able to do everything on my old Dell laptop. I’ve got APT working with my DSLR and the mount, so hopefully I’m good to go! I currently have a 4m usb lead working well with the camera so I am remote  from the scope, but if trials go well I’ll be moving fully inside with a longer run.

All I just need now is one clear night to try it all out... 🤞

My first go at Orion with my Canon 1100d on my 150 Mak. 18 x 15 sec lights stacked in Siril (first time using that too!) and level adjust in Gimp. Out of focus I know, but I was just trying out for the first time in ages so I'm pretty happy  😃 

55 minutes ago, fifeskies said:

Strongly recommend this.  (USB over cat 5/6 , up to 50m)

Its what I use and it works flawlessly.

Daisy chaining USB just gives more places for things to go wrong (damp in connections) and for accidental disconnections as USB does not latch together.

Available Amazon but got mine 2nd hand , they pop up now and then.

StarTech.com 4-Port USB 2.0 Extender - 165ft USB Over: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

 

 

Just checking - this solution is bidirectional? So camera commands and image receive will work?

Mine used to be all separated, but easy to get to in the garage, so close to ambient temp all the time, however, to lug it all outside and set it up was a pain so, I've now got the HEQ5 set up outside (covered with a BBQ cover) which just leaves the scope etc. This should make it a lot quicker (and easier on the back) to get going - but since I've done it and got some initial test shots of M42 in the HEQ5's new location its since clouded over... grrrr 

Hi,

I just thought I'd pop a line in here to say 'Hi' again - been off the forum for probs about 18 months as I had other stuff going on, but finally got back 'out there'.

Anyway, I still see the regular crew are still here - so 'HI' 👋 

Daz

Hi,

After a bit of a break from observing, I've finally got my HEQ5 setup outside permanently with the intention of doing most of my observing remotely using APT linked via ASCOM/Synscan App and my DSLR on either of my scopes. At the moment I am doing images without a guidescope (although I may add one later) and my whole rig is supplied by a powerbank so the only cable I'm using atm is USB. Ultimately, I want to move myself and the laptop indoors which will mean all I need is a 15m USB extender. My question is:

Does anyone have a recommendation of one this long; or

If I go down the USB/Ethernet route do I just need 2 USB ethernet adapters and a CAT6 cable (which will give me the flexibility to add an extra USB for the guider at some point?

Obviously the cost about doubles with ethernet so I'd like to avoid if possible.

I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but I've looked through older threads and it seems opinion may be divided and I couldnt find an example of a good usb extender for 15m.

Thanks in anticipation.

Daz

Hey all,

I’m a musician and currently working on some ambient music inspired by my love of space and astronomy.

Although I’ve done some imaging of my own, I having got that much good material, so, if anyone would be prepared to let me use any images they have taken (I’d prefer DSO but planetary is ok too) that I could use for my YouTube channel that would be great. I will, if you wish, include your credits on the image when they are used in the bud. Also, for any images I use, when I have enough music for an album release,  I’ll give you a copy of the album for free (only if you want it obvs 😊).

As it’s an ongoing project at the moment I can’t say how long it will take to complete, or if I will actually use all the images (if I get any! 😂).

You can check out my channel here if you are interested:

https://youtube.com/channel/UCr8RIMVeGTpcV-NlDZnApFQ

Or more of my ambient/synth material here:

https://soundcloud.app.goo.gl/jy612pFP47jsoGQNA

Thanks in anticipation 😊

Daz

Thanks Aramcheck - thats exactly what I ended up with using too. The other thing I've decided to use (which I'd forgotten I had) is a red dot finder - which I used all the time with my dob.I think that will make a big difference too - cos if I can see em with my eyes then it's all good! 😀

Hi all,

After a break from any significant observing while we moved into a new house, last night I decided to have an extended period in the garden (well, what else can you do nowadays!).

So, my problem is this:

I've mainly used my HEQ5/MAK150/Synscan app setup from darker sites, apart from the odd lunar planetary from my garden which is north facing. It was never dark here (just outside of Donny) but now the housing estate Im on has taken shape, I'm struggling with my new aspect (our old garden was south facing). I don't have low horizon views due to other houses, but have a good view westerly and easterly. Polaris and the usual very bright suspects are OK, but I'm struggling to find even two stars for an alignment. Single star is fine if I use Venus or the Moon or anything else that is 'stand out bright' but I'm finding second star choices from the app after the initial star almost impossible - even Castor and Pollux were hard to find in the finder if they didn't initially get put into view.

Any hints or advice? I'd really like to be able to see something apart from planets and whilst I know it wont be ideal from a light polluted area surely I must be able to do something with the Synscan before selling it and going back to my old dobby days and doing it all manually - which was the reason I got the synscan in the first place - to speed up my observing success.

Thanks for reading.

:)

On 28/10/2019 at 08:14, davekelley said:

What if you can't see polaris from your position, eg it's behind a tall building etc?

Hey,

Thats ok, if you are only doing visual stuff, just do a rough alignment north using a compass and set your elevation. The alignment process after that should get you pretty much bang on.

HTH.

🙂

I had my first light with this setup last night and can say it worked brilliantly! I couldn’t get my iPad and phone to work together but I know this is because I used SynScan on my iPad first before moving to the iPhone to try them together (I’ve deleted the SynScan app from my iPad now and it works fine). Independently, both work fine with the app. 2 star alignment put us bang on second star and all subsequent targets were centre of finder afterwards.

I may have had the luck of a newbie visitor attending as my daughter came to stay and was blown away by the ‘faint fuzzies’ (her words for Bodes) we could see from my light polluted Doncaster garden!

I also found putting the phone on the darkest ‘night shift’ mode (under display settings) helps with maintaining night vision should you accidentally lock the phone - yes, I did that a few times! The app didn’t seem to lose connection with the mount in these brief periods so all was good!

All in all a great experience for a first light and I really prefer the app to the handset - mainly because you can select from a list of targets rather than scroll through. Although an added ‘common name’ search may be asking for perfection instead of having to know (ok, lookup) Messier and NGC numbers). This is being ultra picky though!

One thing I have done is replace the short connector cable with my old handset cable so I could loosely tie wrap the dongle around the centre bolt - see pic. I was a bit worried of the dongle just ‘hanging in the breeze’ and possibly catching the scope during slews!

I’ll experiment more with the dual device SS setup again tonight, skies willing!! ?

On 18/04/2018 at 14:32, Demonperformer said:

Love the idea of plugging wife adapter into the mount. Ain't autocorrect great.

? I’ve amended, although it did make me laugh...

My new SynScan WiFi arrived today and in less than 30 mins I had it up and running on both my phone using SynScan pro app and iPad mini 2 using SkySafari 5! I can’t wait to use it at night!! No clouds please ?

For all those that may need step by step (as I did), I thought I’d put this together as a one stop shop for SynScan WiFi using iOS device - so this is how I set it up on my HEQ5:

1.    Buy a SynScan WiFi adapter!
2.    Download the free SynScan app from iTunes or Sky-Watcher (‘pro’ version if you are using eq mounts)
3.    Plug WiFi adapter directly into the mount (instead of the handset)
4.    Power up mount (it powers the WiFi)
5.    Locate the network on your device (mine is iPhone 5s but also did it on iPad Mini 2)
6.    You may want to set your device to ‘forget’ (or set the connection not to auto join) any other nearby WiFi you use as it may switch over depending on signal strength which will make you lose connection with the mount. I haven’t experienced this yet.
7.    Make sure auto lock on the phone is off (it will disconnect from the wifi if it locks) – so set auto lock to ‘never’
8.    Open the the SynScan app
9.    ‘Connect’ - it will identify your mount at the top of the screen
10.    Viola!! You should now be able to star align and use your phone as a handset

The next steps are if you also want to use SkySafari (I’m using v5 pro on my iPad (Note: do not have SynScan app open on the iPad as well as your other device at the same time - this may stop SS linking to your other device):

1.    Download SS app (now v6)
2.    With phone connected as above and ONLY polar aligned at this point ready to use, open the settings menu in SS
3.    Select IP address and get this from your phone (settings, WiFi, network you are connected to, First IP address at top of list)
4.    Use port 11882
5.    Connect
6.    You should now be able to see your telescope reticule in SS pointing at Polaris. Do whatever star alignment you prefer using your phone. 

7.    You should see SS mimic your telescope alignments and adjust itself as you confirm on the phone.

8.    You are now good to use SS to navigate!

You will need to keep the SynScan app running to use both apps together. If you just want the SynScan app on your iPad you can do that too (same as phone setup above) BUT you will not be able to run both on same device. If you have a new type of device (iPad Air 2 or iPad Mini 4) that runs split screen it may work (I don’t actually know if this is true but from what I’ve read it might):

https://www.macrumors.com/2015/09/16/ios-9-split-screen-multitasking-ipad/

If someone tries this and let’s me know I’ll update this guide.

I think if you definitely want to run it off one device you will have to use Android. Again I have no experience of this but it will be similar to above except that android devices can run simultaneous apps.

I am also setting up my pc with Stellarium so I will do a similar guide for that shortly.

I am really REALLY excited to use this!

Hope that helps, I know I had to hunt around in various places to confirm how and what worked.

On 30/03/2018 at 10:36, kerrylewis said:

I’d like to try the Synscan WiFi adapter and the app but still not sure about their capabilities.

I already have a Skyfi adapter which works fine with my IPad using Sky Safari. However the Synscan app will not work with the Skyfi unit.

So, if I get the Synscan WiFi unit plus app are  there advantages over using the handset? Does it,  for example, take the time and location from the Iphone? I presume it must as it plugs straight into the mount, not the handset. Is the handset then completely redundant? 

I understand from this thread that the Synscan WiFi unit will connect to Sky Safari but not at the same time as the Synscan app on a single Apple device. But will it connect if two devices are used simultaneously - the Iphone controlling the mount with the Synscan app and the IPad connecting to the Synscan  WiFi unit in order to use Sky Safari? The Skyfi adapter would then be redundant.

I am thinking that I can use the advantages of the mount alignment functions etc in the Synscan app on an IPhone and do away with the corded handset, and then use Sky Safari in my IPad to locate objects, but is this possible? 

Thanks in advance ?

Kerry, I believe the answers to your question are ‘yes’ in general.

Ive just ordered a SynScan WiFi due to me ‘breaking’ my handset when flashing it. This is how I will be using it initially:

Synscan WiFi on my HEQ5 

SynScan PRO App on my iPhone 5 so that all gps data is populated

Sky Safari on my iPad mini 2 for navigation

Using both together will do what you are asking above. Your SkyFi adapter would therefore be redundant.

Newer iPads can run ‘side by side’ apps which may mean this may work on one iOS device but I don’t know that for sure.

In the next day or so I’ll be able to advise you further when the WiFi dongle arrives.

HTH

The Ohio state ones are great. Pogge is very clear in his descriptions and it's quite easy to follow ??

I use 6, 10, 20 and 30mm Plossls with my ST80. I don't use a Barlow. The 6 & 10 are for planets, the others for DSOs