Magnus_e

Was the setting that produced halos the (3x drizzle) or similar in deep sky stacker? I remember that setting reeking havoc on my stars when I tried that a few years back.

Hei Pryce. Bra med flere nordmenn As your third astrophoto this is looking very well executed. Guiding looks like it's a 10/10 with no noticable streking of the stars. Setup loks great with the corner stars as round as the center stars, so that's good. I'll let someone else comment abuot the stars. My guess is focus is slightly off, however could it be a dew issue? I see in your sig that you have a dew heater and strips, where have you mounted them, and where they on for this capture?

Here are my 5 All with Celestron AVX, SkyWatcher Equinox PRO 80 APO, ASI 1600mm-c, ZWO EFW with, ZWO LRGB and Baader SII, Ha, OIII From my remote obsy: Observatory17b @ Bortle5 skies April - September Crescent nebula ngc6888 Ha(synth)OIII October - November Elephant's trunk nebula ic1396 (HA)SHO November Andromeda galaxy m31 L(R+Ha)GB November Pelican nebula ic5070 (HA)SHO Starless December (reprocess) Elephant's trunk nebula ic1396 (Ha)HOO I just (today) recieved the correct adapter ring for my new Hotech SCA T-adapter. This will hopefully remove the tilt seen, starting fresh in 2021 with better stars! Hope you like and Clear skies!

Thanks, mee to. I think the first starless image i have seen was the Pelican nebula. I think ths object lends it self to having the stars removed. Happy to se you think it's done well. It did take me some time to get it done, so nice with some feedback.

Thanks Adrian

I think they perhaps should not be compared? The star version is a true astrophotography, while the starless version is a statement in artistic freedom. Even more so than the usual prosessing? I like both, but with different merits.

Hi everyone So here is my first attempt at a starless nebula. Processed in PI. I used the morpological transformation and starmasking for a few iterations, redooing the starmask as the stars was dissappering. I removed the stars for the L(Ha) channel and the SHO independently before LRGB combining. If you zoom in, you will see som yellow star remnants, but at 1x1 view it works ok? Let me know what you think, and please let me know if you see something I can improve. And the original starred version.

Hi again :) Now I'm at my obsy location and have been checking the scope and FF. So. I'm not sure if getting a new focuser is even possible for this scope. There is no pattern of these three screws on the circumference of where the focuser mounts to the ota. It looks like it might be one locking screw, and then som sort of threading? On the good side, the focuser tube was the same diameter for more than 50mm. (I chatted with FLO and they sad that if the focusertube was 2" for atleast 50mm, the Hotech 2" adapter would work) Also, i tried unscrewing the nosepiese on the FF, ant that was possible. The nosepiece had threads for a 2" filter on the side that goes in to the focus tube. When I removed the nosepiece the FF had same size threads. I did try screwing in a 2" filter in the FF, and I'm 99% sure that was the correct threads. (The body of the filter and the FF stopped me from being able to attach the filter, but I'm pretty sure it was correct size threads) So if the Hotech adapter has same size threads as a 2" filter, then it all should work just fine. On FLO there is not given any size for the threads. It only states that is has room for a 2" filter. Anyone know for sure this is the same threads?

Hi, and ho, ho, HOO 🎅 Have been having some fun with the HOO palette lately. I like that it's possible to get very different looking images with most of the same data, or 'less, as the SII data is not used'. Posted a (Ha)SHO pelican late november, but with these clouds, I had some fun processing a (Ha)HOO Pelican. This does give me the opertunity to 'unfairly' compare it to a 'one shot color' pelican from 2015. This was imaged with my canon eos 550d(a), and shows some progress, I think. Hope you like, and let me know how you think 2020 compares to 2015 2020 and 2015

Hi So 2018-2019 was a lot of technical issues for my astrophotograpy hobby that started with frying the motorcontroller of my Celestron AVX. Now on the other hand, I have completed 11 smaller and larger projects so far in 2020 alone, and it feels great 👏 After some time with little use of PixInsight, it was a slow start, but I think (hope) I'm picking up some speed. With a few clouds now, I decided to reprocess the Elphant'sTrunkNebula. One (Ha)HOO and a (Ha)SHO. This time with new Flats, and Calibrated with DarkFlats and not Biases. That seams to work I also tried to ceep controll over the stars as the first version has to bright stars, probably not masked at a point they should. Hope you like the reprocess Link to previous version.

I see. I think it might be bigger down the tube. I think I'll just send a message to FLO, they probably know.

Looks like I did not read it all. It does seam like it has a more advanced centering setup than most others. "The thing just works. No matter what kind of attachment system your focuser drawtube has (single set-screw, compression ring, etc.), the device works the same. Screw your camera onto its T-threads and slide it into your drawtube. Then twist the big, black, knurled knob to compress the O-rings. Give it a few good twists and what once might have been a jiggly connection becomes rock solid. I might as well have epoxied the camera onto the focuser drawtube. Well, had I, I’d never get the camera off, but here all you do is untwist that knurled ring and then slide the camera out. This might be worth trying first, as it's a lot cheaper than a new focuser.

Only thing is 'will this be centered without tilt'? Looks like it does not have the radius like the FF, but other than that it needs to work well with the stock focus tube and self center. Could be and option. looks like its quality, at least.

Ok. Then I have some things to doubble check, before I decide anything My scope is in a remote Obsy, so I cannot just go outside and check. With the clouds and rain here, I have time for some maintenece

I see. Just a little slow So The focuser is made for ID 86, and I need an adapter if the Equinox 80 has a ID of 96 Then the focuser https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-diamond-steeltrack-focusers/baader-steeltrack-diamond-rt-for-refractors.html And the M48 adapter from the fucuser to the FF filter thread. I guess if its possible to unscrew the FF nosepeace and get some threads on the body of the FF, then that is preferred? A more secure connection? In case, just have to swap out the M48 adapter, to mate to the FF, unless that is M48 too?

This looks like a really nice upgrade. A lot less expencive than a new scope, and something that will give me the best function from what I allready have I will have to check the ID of the scope, and see what kind of FF I should get, If I'm not able to screw on the one I have now. I do belive it has threads for a filter on the nose end. Not sure if that could be used, or if the entire nose peace with the radius thing can unscrew, and show some usable treads. Nice project to figure this out, and possibly get a bonus christmas present 🎅

I think the aswer is no on both parts, but now I really want to figure out how to make that a Yes I would have to check, to be sure, but a google search shows no threads. I wonder if there is a chanse to get a focus tube with treads, or some other upgrades to this scope. I have had it since 2015, so I can afford some upgrades on it now.

I got mine from flo, but it's not in their lineup any more. It looks more or less identical to this one. Only that it was SkyWatcher and claimed to be very well matched to the Equinox 80 https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reducersflatteners/ovl-field-flattener.html

Figured I could make a drawing of what I tried to explain in the first post. Just a crossection of the FF in blue, with the self centering radius, and what I think is creating the tilt. The box outside the blue is just the focustube. How it ideally should work How it ends up with a filterwheel, camera and more hanging off it.

Guiding migt be more 95% than 100% on, but I think there is a lot worse in the corners. If you look at the stars in the middle of the last image (new pelican), they are a lot better than in the topleft corner. The first pelican in colors is from the canon eos 550d. Ith has a APC-C sensor that is bigger than the asi 1600mm-c, and it has worse stars than the asi subs. It looks like on the color pelican there is a issue on both top corners. If it is a issue with the centering function of the FF then there will be differences. (I have unmounted and mounted everyhing several times for swapping camea, cleaning, etc, so the tilt would vary)

Hi So my issue is that every sub has stars at one corner pointing to the middle of the image, as if it's not being corrected by my Field Flattener. This has been a problen since it was new, however when I got the FF I was using my astromodded Canon EOS 550d. As I astromodded it myself, I could not be sure that the tilt was not because of the sensor could have been tilted after the mod. After that I have got a new camera, the ZWO asi 1600mm-c, and the tilt is still there. So the tilt is not in the sensor of the modded 550d, but is it the scope or the FF? I have one even older sub with the scope + canon 550d and no FF. In this image it looks like all the stars are equally pointing from the edges towards the middle (no tilt). So the FF in question is a SkyWatcher unit. It has one 'tube' that goes into the focuser, and one larger tube with the glass elements. Where the two tubes meet there is a self centering function. The smaller diameter tube 'fades' into the larger diameter tube with a radius that trails the circumference of the two tubes. This does center the FF into the focuser tube, but that is where the issue lies I think? If the FF is sentered, then the smaller diameter tube on the FF is not making contact with the inside of the focuser tube, as the diameter is slightly smaller than the focuser tube. When I then hang my filterwheel and camera on the FF, then it moves untill the FF tube and the inside of the focuser tube meets, making the optics tilted. So if this is likely the case, then I can do one of two things. 1. cheep fix. Wrap the smaller tube of the FF with one or two layers of tape, so that the FF mets the inside of the focuser tube centered, and not making the optics tilt. 2. get a new FF I really want to make my corner stars perfect. When I process something with the meridian flip, I get these stars in two corners, and they are not allways easy to process out. I do need someone to agree with my findings, or point out something I missed before continuing. Here are the subs I'm trying to decode. All the subs is with the SW Equinox 80 PRO APO 1. eos 550d, modded, no FF, no tilt, all corners pointing to the middle 2. Pelican eos 550 modded, FF, Tilt, topleft and toprignt pointing towards center 3. California asi 1600mm-c with FilterWheel, FF, Tilt, topleft pointing center 4. New Pelican asi 1600mm-c with FW, FF, tilt, topleft pointing center