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About Mered

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  1. Thanks for the replies everyone. I ordered the USB coupler along with a 12V splitter with uprated USB sockets, so it will be able to deliver the amperage needed. Wasn't keen on the AC powered ones, as I didn't want 240V outside. I keep the power supply in the garage and run a long 12V cable to my mount. Some good ideas to try though if the USB coupler doesn't work.
  2. I'm looking at ways to extend imaging time, now that the darker nights are coming. I have an EOS 1300D with the original Canon battery. I was looking at this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07C1ZL882/ as it is USB powered. The USB port on my cigarette socket splitter only delivers 1A, but this adapter requires 2-4A. So I'm thinking of getting a USB powerbank as most seem capable of delivering a total of 4A. Does anyone else use any sort of external power supply or is it better to just get spare batteries and swap over when necessary?
  3. I have an SW Evostar 80ED. The astronomy.tools calculator suggest with good and okay seeing it is well matched? That's with the assumption that I will still use the reducer/flattener. Obviously the FOV will be smaller but checking a few objects shows plenty that fit nicely. Would you agree that an 80ED is a good match or should I be looking to upgrade the scope too?
  4. Are they single images or a stack? What is the exposure time used? I was looking at the 178MM as an eventual upgrade from DSLR.
  5. The source is now on Github if you've not seen already https://github.com/LucCoiffier/DSS The initial commits suggest a 64-bit port is on the way. I'm cloning the repository now to have a good look over the weekend. EDIT: Just noticed there is no license in the project, making it difficult to fork if anyone wanted to release their own version. Does anyone post on the Yahoo group, and could see if they will add a license?
  6. Good news that it is finally going open-source, I'll be taking a look at it. Curious to see what prevented a 64-bit version being built, I seem to recall it was one of the libraries they used?
  7. Thanks monaghan. I've always just used the value from Synscaninit (which is a brilliant little app by the way), and as I said before it's always close to the value on the handset. It's definitely accurate enough to use, and after a couple of runs on the polar alignment routine on the handset, I very rarely get any bad subs due to misalignment. Thanks for taking the time to respond!
  8. I've had this before, sometimes it's better, sometimes it's worse, but it's usually better when I have better polar alignment. I have a guided setup, so there's probably some flexure in there too. Last time I really looked into it, I sorted the images by dX and dY in DSS and it clearly shows the movement. You can then have a go at working out what is due to PE and what is due to polar alignment. As said above, at least you get some dithering from it!
  9. Useful tip, there's nothing so disheartening as hearing the dreaded 'BEEEP' as the mount/handset resets when you've managed to accidentally knock the power lead. What would be really good to go with this too is a breakaway section further down on the cables, like on an Xbox/Playstation gamepad. It's solid enough that it won't disconnect accidentally, but if you did trip over the cable it will safely disconnect rather than pulling your mount over or damaging the cable.
  10. Yeah, I have the flattener The handset said I was 8 minutes in one direction and 1 minute in the other off alignment, after initial alignment and a couple of rounds of alignment using the handset. Is that enough to show any rotation? I've never really known just how accurate you have to be
  11. Yeah, I was quite surprised. Don't know what happened with the guiding, though it was a bit breezy when setting up The first couple of test shots showed the stars almost forming a circle due to the movement taking place. I'll check all the connections are tight. Anyway, I figured I might as well see how well the unguided shots turned out and since there was only the smallest hint of rotation at the corners I decided to just let it be!
  12. Got my modded 1300D from Cheapastrophotography for Christmas, and as luck would have it I had a perfectly clear night to test it out. This is 74 x 120s lights with 50 bias/flats. No darks used yet. Guiding was playing up, so this is unguided. Stacked and processed in DSS only. I will definitely come back to this and add more to it. I've used my previous 350D on this target and I can already see the difference. I was hoping for a bit more in the edges but maybe that would come with more data? Any thoughts on improving processing?
  13. There is one other possibility that I just thought of. Synscaninit reports the longitude/latitude as degrees:minutes for entry into the handset, but the phone GPS is obviously getting a full degrees:minutes:seconds value. If the calculation in Synscaninit is using that more accurate value, it might be causing the difference? E.g. if the app displays a latitude of 51.34, but my actual location is 51.34.12 then would that difference be enough to show a difference in hour angle? I'll see if I can be bothered to test it out in Stellarium or an online HA calculator later!
  14. Yep, all the values from Synscaninit are what I put in the handset, so the two are identical.
  15. I've been using the Synscaninit app for a while now to setup my HEQ5. When entering the values into the handset, if I compare the hour angle of Polaris calculated by Synscaninit against the hour angle shown on the handset, the two are always different by a couple of minutes or so. Which one would be more correct? Is Synscaninit correcting for slight changes in the position of Polaris over time? It probably doesn't matter too much, just one of those small things!
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