matt_baker

The only people who are actually in the observatory at any one time are my dad and myself, surely that can't be messing it up?

2 minutes ago, Ibbo! said:

Where is the C14 kept?

I have tried with a Meade 16" SCT housed in a dome and at the dome opening there was a "howling gale" (slight exaggeration)which I think was due to the heat from bodies computer etc escaping to the night air.
 

It's housed in a dome. Would there be a way around this?

At our observatory we too have a C14 (non-edge) and it is an incredible piece of equipment, however I feel like I'm getting some underwhelming pictures of the moon in comparison to others I've looked at.

I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on how to improve with the C14?

I have an ASI120MC that goes on a visual back. I also have a 2x barlow but seeing conditions are terrible to even attempt to use it

I've attached my most recent attempts, I feel as if the focus may be slightly off as I find the focuser to be terrible especially with the shift. Surely they would've come up with something better for a scope so expensive?

I used AS!3 for stacking and deconvolution on Pixinsight with unsharp mask and MLT

The sampling would also be okay with the barlow, but it's impossible to use with the seeing conditions again.

Thanks,

Matt

Reprocessed my old M42 data from last year. Learned a lot since then and it's safe to say it wasn't the best in the world to work with noise wise, especially the walking noise

If I get a chance this winter, I'll be sure to get a much nicer image in terms of noise this time around

2 hours ago, Nigella Bryant said:

Yeah, I always use my mono asi120mm and also a 0.5 reducer to give me full disk. I use autostakker3 to stack @ 30% the image is then transfered to Imppg which is specially designed for solar imaging processing. All are freeware. I use photoshop to merge and colour. I'm new to this to and only got my scope this summer. Transit of mercury is a must on the 11th November weather permitting of course. Watch your focus too,  gain, gamma, and exposure, it will be easier using sharpcap for capture with the zwo asi120mm. You need to capture one for the surface details and then another with increased brightness for prominences and merge the two after processing. 

 

What typical gain, exposure and white balance do you use with your 120mm?

1 hour ago, newbie alert said:

I'd look at the reason that you're getting that amount of moisture on the inside of the tube..somethings not quite right with that..

Don't think causing thermals will be the answer either

They do have a desiccant absorber on the eyepiece holder itself and pouches to soak up the moisture

I'm not too sure why either that there's that much moisture in there either, I'll check next time

3 hours ago, newbie alert said:

The idea is to heat the air in front of the corrector plate to stop the dew forming  , so for me put the dew shield on, and wrap the dew band around in front of position 1

I think a lot of the dew I had was forming on the inside, so position 3 makes sense in this case

6 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:

It works ok on our 16" SCT so it should work for you.    Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point.  Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket?     🙂

Okay, I'll do just that, thanks

2 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:

Position 3 is the best as the tube thickness is less at that point.  Is your dew strap long enough to pass over the dovetail bracket?     🙂

Yes it is, will that do?

Just like this position 3 on this image but I don't really want to take the scope off the mount since it's very heavy

Only issue is that the C14 has a losmandy plate that extends all the way up the tube and the gap is too thin to wrap the strip around the scope

Where is the optimal place for a dew heater to go on a C14 with a dew shield as well?

Over the dew shield, just behind the corrector plate?

Over but a bit further behind the corrector?

Under the dew shield, behind the corrector?

Or

Over the dew shield and in front of the corrector to stop dew forming on the shield itself?

Matt

2 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

I think the first one in the second set is better, but I also think it could be better as the data looks good!

That's what I was thinking. When I get back I'll have a look at it properly since there's different things that you trade off when you edit it. 

Like: brightness, but you lose overall contrast, especially in the dust lanes and the opposite

It is also an old set of data from last year so I could add to it and make the signal even better

Okay, I've had another go and I think this one is alright, what does everyone else think?

The gradient across the top to bottom I can't seem to get rid of either

Or there's this version:

The new one I think is a lot more natural looking (the top one)

What could I do to make it look even better?

What would be a good exposure value to start with then adjust gain? 10ms?

I followed the full disk tutorial on daveys link. 

Think it looks much better now

There's no flats so it looks much darker in the middle

It's weird how one set of data can vary so wildly, just by changing the processing

12 minutes ago, Merlin66 said:

Matt,

A bit over cooked...the actual surface is smoother and more flowing......ease off the wavelets and contrast.

Just my 2c.

 

Okay, gotcha

This has been my best shot at processing it. Have cropped substantially for the out of focus parts

On 18/10/2019 at 09:59, philj said:

This is the cable mod I and many other owners did, you dont need it but if you have operational issues then theres some useful info in here. Gary is a mine of info on these mounts, I was close to getting rid of the mount with frustration at one tine, till I did this mod.

http://bendun.net/CGE-UPGRADE-KITS.html

So you may find that after sorting the PA you may have operational issues/ errors when you come to calibrate, if the leads are wrong.

Note, even if the leads are correct and an earthed shell, it doesnt mean all will be well. Sorry bout that. The rj45 sockets in the column are poor quality and give many problems, I remember unplugging and replugging many times trying to get the mount to calibrate. All sorted when I changed the rj45 for screw Din.

 

So you can probably see why these mounts get neglected in institutions, because it needs someone with dedication and time to sort them, something which schools and clubs cant seem to provide. They are excellent mounts and are superb on goto (5 calibration stars fir goto was very accurate pointing) plus for imaging they are good performers BUT

they arent simple to operate if your not used to them, download the manual before powering up for the first time and do some test calibrations in the daylight.

 

Oh and one final bit of advice, run from the handbox till you get used to it. Pc interface with nexremote can result in loss of hair, shouting and general depression 🙂

Okay since I've now polar aligned, how would I go through with calibrating the mount?

I read the manual and followed their instructions but nothing seemed to happen and there was no improvement in pointing accuracy

Edit: Also, I think there is some issues with DEC backlash, but I'll have to check up on that

34 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Looking good, what software are you using for capture and processing ?

Focusing is much easier when there's a nice Sun spot to focus on, hopefully some will show up soon.

I use Firecapture, AS3, imppg and then P'Shop.

As Michael said the ZWO ASI178M works well on the LS60, it's what I use and just about squeezes a full disc in at good resolution.

Second image looks pixelated.

Dave

I'm using sharpcap then AS!3 for stacking then registax and PS for processing

I think without a barlow, it's very undersampled and blocky but it's just so hard to focus with the barlow and no sunspots

Worked on it a little more, not sure if it's an improvement

Seems like a bad image, I know but this is my first ever solar image with a Ha scope

I was wondering if any of you could give me any tips to improve these images?

I'm using a Lunt LS60THa and a ASI120MC (I know I should have a mono)

I did a quick stack and edit on PS to get this and I've noticed that it's out of focus.

I do find it hard to determine when it is in focus properly too

Update: went out last night and successfully polar aligned with sharpcap and 50mm finder

Probably too short of a focal length but it will do for now

Here's an image of how accurate I could get it

Update: 

Finally fixed it, just need to check next time it's clear and I'll polar align

Basically it was just a case of taking off the telescope and CW, then slackening off the centre screw that holds the mount down.

I turned it clockwise about an inch and kept the az bolts centred so there's a little bit of leeway to account for any error.

Thanks everyone for their help

Matt