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Everything posted by mbalkham

  1. Hi All Been struggling to get the new USB GPS to play ball with the Pi. Manage to manually connect to it and it works with KSTARS but getting it to connect on boot is problematic. I've read heaps of great forum posts on configuring GPSD on boot (using something like below) to modify my /etc/default/gpsd file. Still no joy. Lost a whole night of imaging mucking up drivers and reinstalling everything and now onto about day 3! Running Stellamate OS 1.4.2 and KSTARS 3.3.3. Any pointers welcomed (new to playing with Linux and Pi). Cheers Matt /etc/default/gpsd # Default set
  2. Sorry just to be clear, I should say I'm very happy with the focuser and not looking go change that. Just looking for motor drive options.
  3. Hi All, Looking to add a motor focuser to my baader diamond steeltrack for newtonian focuser. I see the new SteelDrive II is available but about twice the price of the original steeldrive. Does anyone know if the new one is worth the extra investment?! Open to ideas of other makes if appropriate. Thanks in advance Matt
  4. Hi All, Should start by saying I'm a complete raspberry pi noob so steep learning curve so far! Go easy with any technical replies! Recently been playing with control of the rig using Raspberry Pi 3 essentially as a wireless USB hub (for the mount, autoguider, canon 6D control and PoleMaster), still doing the control with the Widows 10 Nextbook but now from inside the house (hopefully!). I have it all talking to one another whilst on my home wifi network and hope to test it outside when I get a clear sky. Pretty chuffed it seams to work given the trouble we all have with USB drivers
  5. Did the power plug mod as per the previous link and had a great night of imagining with no problems. Fingers crossed we're fixed and for less than $15 and an hour of time! Should have done it ages ago! Surprised that the manufacturer hasn't picked this up. Can't be any more expensive than the stock part.
  6. Thanks for the replies. I don't think it's the USB side of things though it could be. I've had many sessions with no problems and assume if it was an underpowered hub I'd see the issues more frequently? I've never liked the connection on the side of the nextbook but haven't yet got any real alternative (though I saw a blutooth/wifi option somewhere). Could be the power connection I guess and I've seen a power socket/plug mod somewhere before (http://bendun.net/Images/STARFEST2011/EQ6 Power Plug Modification.pdf) so it might be time to try that. Have been meaning to rationalize t
  7. I'm currently experiencing an intermittent problem with my NEQ6 stopping mid slew. It loses connection with the nextbook and all alignment info. I have to manually put back to the home point and start alignment process again (plus target alignment and imaging and PHD calibration). Thinking it might be a loose electrical connection or mechanical issue overloading the drive? A real pain tonight as first clear night in ages and I've given up after 2 resets (the worst is ever been). Most common cause would be parking to home position from a high position (pointing close to vertical).
  8. I'm fairly sure it's not an external cable issue. It happens at about the same point in the sky and stops with a jolt & funny noise. I'll try taping the cables to the mount and see if I can recreate the issue.
  9. Last night was the first time out for a while. All went pretty well until I needed to flip. As the mount was slewing (controlled via EQMOD from C2C) it froze and lost connection to the computer. I needed to completely restart the mount and EQMOD (and everything else). I then needed to reset everything (guidecam, mount pointing, camera, etc. etc. etc.) which is a real pain. It's happened to me before too same deal doesn't like slewing across the meridian for some reason. Once up and running on the other side no problems imaging for several hours. Any ideas?
  10. Looking to leap into CCD (from canon 6d) and am looking for a camera and filter wheel for my CT10. Anything considered. Must be prepared to post to NZ! Thanks in advance
  11. I've just got my Catseye gear through (TELECAT XLS SIGHT TUBE + BLACKCAT XL CHESHIRE + INFINITY XLKP AUTOCOLLIMATOR). First impressions are good but the info on the website is mega confusing. Does anyone have simplified, plain English advice?! If not I might write some at some stage. I've watched a few videos online and many contain good tips. Anyway got the centre spot applied and everything appears now to be square (after an adjustment of the alignment of the focuser as well as moving the primary and secondary). Two questions 1) I noticed that my collimation appeared to go off duri
  12. Interesting post on the comparison. Last night I got a good result with polemaster and good pointing accuracy but my phd2 guiding results weren't as good as I'd expected/hoped. I undertook a PHD2 drift alignment and improved my PA (but worsened my pointing accuracy even with a new 3 star alignment). I'm thinking of adopting a 2 stage PA routine using first polemaster for a (very good) 'roughing in' and then a find tune using PHD2 drift. Then doing my 3+ star alignment for sorting my goto. Anyone else playing with a multi stage approach to PA? Or am I doing something wrong to need to do th
  13. Yep PA wasn't perfect and which I struggled to guide out. I also don't think my balance was quite right. Seeing wasn't great plus I think there was some high cloud. Also I'm not convinced collimation is spot on yet (I have some new tools on order for that one!). Happy enough for first light but hope there's plenty more in the scope for me to get out!
  14. Looking on advice regards dew heaters/shields/other options. Using Orion Optics CT10 in NZ and struggling with dew on the secondary. Also dew on Baader UHC-S filter mounted to front of Baader Coma Corrector on the t-ring infant of the Canon 6d which I guess will be hard to heat given it's inside the focuser (Baader diamond steel track focuser). Found the kendrick astro secondary dew heater. I have emailed them but emails have bounced back. Other options/ideas/advice? Thanks in advance Matt
  15. Here's a stacked and edited version.
  16. Finally the clouds parted for a few moments and I managed to get some light into the new OTA. Dew problems limited the session (I feel another purchase coming on). Pretty happy with these single subs (with basic edits only). Looking forward to stacking and processing them. Good to have resolved the back focus issues (with longer bolts) and get things up and running from a new location.
  17. Quick question about balancing mount for imaging primarily. I've got a new and larger/heavier ota (yes you can blame cloudy skies on me) and can achieve balance via the two 5kg weights on the NEQ6 extension bar. I've also bought an extra 5kg weight thinking i might be better with more weight closer to the mount (especially if i don't need them on the extension as one less component to flex/vibrate/move as i track/slew). I usually extend the bar as far as it goes (so not relying on clutch and so it can't slip anywhere). push the weights as far along the bar as needed and keep them tog
  18. Cheers Andrew. I understand that people's needs vary but most people aren't buying these things everyday and they are selling them everyday so why wouldn't you ask and do you best to make sure your clients are happy with the product? Not just ship what you always do and hope for the best. Different if I was buying a standard off the shelf product. Anyway currently I have achieved focus on a street light prob a km away so we have progress. Just need a star to check it properly! I now need some spacers so that the springs work on the longer bolts. Thinking M10 nuts on the M8 bolts unless an
  19. I've heard back from Orion Optics. There emails are much less helpful than before I paid them the money and we're down to one line answers which aren't much help. I have got out of them that the standard tube to focal point is 116mm on the CT10. Why they don't have this discussion upfront is beyond me they knew I was intending to image with this scope and it's a bespoke one (made to order and supplied without focuser) so you would have thought they would have prompted a question in the buying process. Anyway that being the case I have little chance of achieving focus (steel track 9mm+62m
  20. The bolts look like m8 with 35mm one moving the primary and 30mm locking it. I recon i need 10-15mm extra but am wondering if that will introduce a heap more flex/vibration into the primary?
  21. Just realised I'm measuring to the wrong part of the focuser really so prob need to take another 10mm off the numbers above. The Baader manual suggests I can get 10mm out of removing the 2" clamp if I can live with an M48 thread but this would prevent me easily changing orientation of the camera or between visual and imaging having to loosen 6 grub screws to adjust the M48 adapter.
  22. Incidentally it's a cloudy night so I am focusing on a streetlight a fair distance from the house. Prob need a little more back focus on a real target.
  23. I managed focus with the 10mm EP but not with the 25mm. So I make back focus 62mm plus 10mm ~ 72mm (assuming I am measuring and doing the maths correctly). 25mm EP does not achieve focus with 60mm ~ 75mm back focus Camera is 44mm (flange distance on Canon 6d) plus 25mm ~69mm but I can't get focus
  24. How about a glass path compensator? Anyone used one of these? would it work in my optical chain which includes coma corrector & filters?
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