Atreta

I want to share this video for everyone who has an ender 3, or wants to buy one, to check out if their printer have the same problem: 

I just finished a print of  a saturn V rocket model i found on thingiverse. this is the model i used: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45316

We had a blackout due to a heavy rain that hit tonight and the resume function worked as it should. The print came out really nice.  

Here is a picture of it: 

1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Quick question for you 3D printer gurus... Would a printer such as the Ender 3 let me make (amongst many other things) custom telescope fittings with, say, 1.25" barrel and either c-mount, T2 or M48 threads?

Cheers

Louise

I was trying to make a m48 t2 adapter for my coma corrector but i couldn't create a custom thread in fusion 360. If someone could help me out with this i can make a test print to see how it goes. 

5 minutes ago, Dave_D said:

time to retry it on the ender

Please share when you do

13 minutes ago, Gina said:

I use inductive probes but these need metal to work.  I use very thin copper foil pads stuck to the top of the glass.

Interesting. Do you cover the whole glass? Does it get ripped with the models when you remove them? 

5 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Personally, I'd forget Cura, as I found it didn't produce good results.

Instead I mostly use Prusas' variant of Slic3r (https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/) which has much more control of machine, materials, print control, than Cura, or even Simplify3d (paid for). I even use it to slice models for use on my DBot\DuetEthernet machine.

As for design work, I use OpenScad, but it can be daunting for new users, but for quick simple knock ups, I tend to use AutoDesks' Tinkercad (https://www.tinkercad.com/) which is free for personal use. It is not as powerful as some other packages (paid & free) but is a simple tool to use & produce workable objects.

As for bed levelling, I've tried various device, switched\capacitive\inductive etc. and the most accurate and repeatable, I've found, are the Pinda probes fitted to Prusa printers, and the Precision Piezo devices (https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/). The Pinda's are difficult to get, but the PP's are cheap, easy to fit, but you lose some print height...

 

Piezo sensor looks interesting, is there any videos showing it fitted to an ender? 

The one thing i want to add to my ender 3 is auto bed leveling. I'm still researching the best method between capacitive or inductive sensors, etc. 

4 hours ago, gazza said:

This was a test of whether I could image with OSC here, as well as a test of the 130PDS.....

That test went really well then,  looks like pixinsight did its magic

Could you post or pm me a picture of how it looks like without processing? 

Thanks 

11 hours ago, gazza said:

Bortle 9 Zone (Red Zone), 1/4 Moon

? impressive for a bortle 9 sky. What filters did you use? 

On 10/11/2018 at 01:24, ZiHao said:

So eventually the handset continue to function as usual when connected to the complete setup? Mine doesn't light up even though it beeps when connected to a power supply during update ( the firmware update failed ) so I think only if the update is successful then the handset will function as usual?

Mine didn't work when the update failed, it was taking a long time for the controller to boot and eventually give an error. I had to connect it to an old computer with a serial port and the update finished and the controller got working again. 

5 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

If you use Cura try entering a negative number (say about -0.2 to start) for initial layer expansion. After tuning will get rid of that 'flange' on the bottom layer.

Thanks, gonna try it. Also do you know a way to get the upper layer smooth (i don't know the right translation to English). The upper layer looks grainy, full of dots,  on thinginverse there are some print examples that show it without that pattern. I tried to print a sonic model and the base also had that pattern. 

Thanks

On 16/09/2018 at 14:31, Thalestris24 said:

Let us know how it goes!

Louise

Hey Louise, the ender 3 arrived and i did some test prints with it. The test dog came out nice. 

I also just did this test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023 and it also did very good at it.

This is a picture of the test print:

It looks better "in person" than  in the picture.

Edit: i printed it using simplify 3d with a medium quality setting. 

4 hours ago, Lead_weight said:

Is there an equivalent version of this scope in the U.S.? I would love one of these smaller fast scopes, but can't seem to find an equivalent, and SkyWatcher doesn't carry it on the U.S. site. 

It has a slightly different name in the usa, bkp 130ds. I did a search and found a store in Canada that sells it, but i don't know if i can post a link to it here. 

5 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Let us know how it goes!

Louise

Sure, as soon as it arrives and i get it to work

Hi, Louise. I just bought a creality ender 3 and I'm waiting for it to arrive. It's a good printer under 200 usd. There are a few videos on YouTube reviewing it. 

2 hours ago, Gerry Casa Christiana said:

.Couple of comparisons below but the also guiding was added as I didn't have that before  

 

Huge difference

14 hours ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

Wow those images are amazing! I'm really looking forward  to the nights coming back. One annoying thing with the 130 is collimation. For some reason I can only get the secondary centred if I off centre the front vanes quite a lot.

I guess I'll just have to get some test shots in and see how it does.

John

i think mine is out of collimation, my copy of ccd inspector expired and can't check it anymore.  it would be nice if someone could analyze it for me

14 hours ago, Gerry Casa Christiana said:

Great shot. Here is mine on my T2 unmodified last year. Mine has even worse HA than yours!

You got a lot of Ha too, great image.

i'm considering to mod mine, but i don't like red overwhelming the entire picture. 

14 hours ago, Susaron said:

I go for M8 this night, let's see what I can get

Hope you can get it. I wanna see

Last one, the good old m8 lagoom nebula 

I'm focusing more on this is target to see how much detail i cam get out of it.

This is about 5 hours of integration time from different nights taken with iso 400 and 4 minute exposure and with flats. I found that iso 400 works best for me. 

The camera is a t5i unmodded and i still can't use the coma corrector,  I'll try to have a friend to help me with it. 

1 hour ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

That's a nice lagoon, not too much red, either. Is your camera unmodded?

I'm really excited to get out later this week is the weather allows, but its so difficult to decide which one to image: the Eagle, Trifid, or Lagoon Nebula.

John

They're all good targets, i like the lagoon more. 

1 hour ago, JohnSadlerAstro said:

That's a nice lagoon, not too much red, either. Is your camera unmodded?

I'm really excited to get out later this week is the weather allows, but its so difficult to decide which one to image: the Eagle, Trifid, or Lagoon Nebula.

John

Thanks, yes it's still unmodded, I'm still considering if I will. 

I was aiming for the southern Pleiades but LP was too much, so i went for the lagoon. 

My last one, m8-lagoon nebula. 

Only 58 minutes worth of integration. 

Ps: i named it wrong when saving

Yes, it does. 

15 hours ago, alacant said:

OK. Can you post a shot of the cap? Is it a sight tube with cross-hairs? A Cheshire with cross-hairs maybe? IMHO best to forget that ATM and concentrate on the second shot you posted. Make a simple cap (see my shot here) so that your eye or phone are centred in the focuser tube. From the orientation you have ATM the secondary needs moving up the tube -away from the primary- and vertically -up relative to the orientation you have taken the photo-. Make it concentric. That will get you close enough for a star test or your other cap. Whatever your cap is is, I don't think you'll be able to see all three mirror clips using it as it has too small a diameter.

HTH and good luck.

Thanks again, i used the upper part of the Cheshire.   I'll make those adjustments you mentioned and try again.  

Here's a picture of what i used, i guess the hole is too small compared to your picture. 

15 hours ago, alacant said:

Post a picture of yours and we'll be able to help better.

Thanks a lot, Alacant. 

This is how it looks like through the cap and with the focuser racked all the way out :

This one is from the secondary without anything on the focuser just to show its position related to the draw tube:

I noticed that if i rack in the focuser and look through the cap, the position of the reflection shifts., it moves over to the left.