Jonk

It's been a while, but it's back!

I've just been through this again, but this time applying the defect map tool on the uncalibrated lights (original flats).

The theory worked just fine, I no longer have any 'bright' pixels in the resulting master flat. However, the resulting 'repaued' pixel is darker than its neighbours. Something to look at.

Next up is to apply the master flat to the lights as part of the normal calibration and stacking, and have a very good pixel peeping session!

So far, so good although I will do all the master bias / defect map and flats again, as I'm not confident that they're 'in date' and this might account for the not so perfect pixel repair.

Ok I’ll try later and update in case anyone else wonders the same.

Understood.

I’m thinking of running the defect map tool on the flats before calibration? I don’t use a master dark on the lights as I have the defect map.

Being an 8300 ccd sensor it’s always a snowstorm but the defect map sorts it out in one click.

I wonder if this will be fine for flats, I’m guessing so.

I might add that these high and low pixels do exist in all of the original subs, but still confusing - I've set the percentile clipping values as low as possible, but this doesn't work.

Setting the percentile clipping values higher also does not affect the result. In fact, the values set anywhere don't seem to have an effect. Have I made a mistake?

I'm wondering if I should do them all again, see what happens. They are a few months old so the stuck pixels might not exist now.

I was calibrating and stacking 50 x 3nm ha flats and I noticed a bright pixel in the resulting stack - not seen this before. On closer inspection there are a handful but also a darker pixel or 2.

I get that screen stretches aren't really telling the whole story, so I hovered and checked closer. As can be seen, the brighter pixel is significantly more than the surrounding pixels.

It can also be measured for the darker pixel, albeit the difference isn't as much in terms of value %

The flats were taken with a Gerd Neumann panel, so there shouldn't be any outliers, and calibrated with master bias / dark prior to stacking in the normal way.

Here's a screen stretched master flat:

And I've just found the worst pixel, nearly 100%:

Any ideas?

When I was a kid my mum used to send to the local coop....loaf of bread (19p), 2 pints of milk (can't remember the price) and a pound of Cheddar cheese from the counter.

I could never understand why the cheese didn't cost a quid, I just asked for it!

October - oh dear. Very mixed with some frustrating weather conditions, however plenty of opportunities to get some hours in.

If you're using a computer, I assume you have either mains power available or a battery set up with outputs?

I would cut the cigar lighter plug off and keep the cable as a spare, and use either a dedicated 12Vdc 2A or 3A PSU for the focus controller or a fused cable from your battery setup.

If you're not sure, maybe post a photo of your setup and environment and people can chime in.

1 minute ago, scotty38 said:

Exactly what I said, it's a current limiter for the LED, nothing else....

I know, it was the way I read it. 🙂

A USB connection is typically required to use less than 500mA (the limit for a USB 2 output on a PC for example).

Some phone chargers can be up to 2.5A at 5Vdc, but in your case, how much current does the device need? It may show in power rather than current on the label, so 5V x 0.5A = 2.5W maximum. If it's lower than 2.5W, then a normal USB output should suffice (as long as it's not a shared output with other sockets - for example on a laptop, 2 usb outputs may share the same bus and therefore the total power capacity.

A quick look at one of these devices shows separate a usb and 12V connection, usb for the data, 12Vdc for the power, probably why you were provided with that cable.

These cigar lighter plugs tend to have a fuse in - the LED / resistor combo will not be a current limiter, is is purely there to show it's powered up. The resistor current limits the LED so only 3Vdc or is across the led, for around 15mA.

You can reduce the length no problem, but I would ask why do you need to do this? If you're going to go to the trouble of modifying the cable, then get rid of the cigar lighter plug / socket and use something more substantial (if you can).

An interesting video, probably copying the 'size of stars comparison' videos we've likely all seen.

Also because I like 2D modelling and rendered graphics!

Which would you choose?

1 minute ago, Bridgehouse said:

Have you changed routers, or any other settings or added anything significant recently?

Most instances of Teamviewer not connected are due to some sort of change locally. The "not connected to the internet" is a red herring - it's actually saying it can't find the other device which does suggest Teamviewer traffic isn't getting through over your wifi

That sounds like DHCP to me, i.e. an IP address has changed, unless teamviewer can automatically compensate for this?

2 hours ago, vlaiv said:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506566-REG/x_rite_eodisstu_i1display_studio.html

+1

I have one and it's good.

I have been to a few at Lucksall, and although they might not want to, a star party in the spring is so much better than the autumn / early winter.

For the past what 3 or 4 that have been held later in the year, have either been flooded (can happen any time of course) or very foggy as everything cools down.

The occasion I went in the spring (SGL 10 I think?) it was great.

Also, the last time I went, Hereford is now casting a very white light over around 30% of the NW skies, probably due to LED.

Does the SGL star party have to be at Lucksall? Aren't there any other options available? It might be nice to make a change.

What OS are you using?

I use Windows in the main but have a couple of Raspberry PIs - and I use Remote Desktop on the PCs / laptops, and VNC on a tablet or phone when I have to.

Remote desktop just works, and works well - VNC is ok, albeit a little annoying on a touchscreen. This is all on an internal LAN (wired and wireless), and I haven'ttried RDP (remote desktop protocol) over the internet.

Yep, that’s right…. Pay up!

It doesn’t have to be the same, the enclosure can be anything suitable but the underlying software is probably the most reliable I have used and still very active in terms of development.

First thought if it's not cables - are your clutches ok? What mount are you using?

Edit - ok good that you've found it. If it started off fine then failed, then that makes sense as the snagged cable would get tighter and tighter.

I always remove my alignment camera once PA'd to remove a potential issue.

This allsky project is full steam ahead, with a very active team fixing bugs daily and improving the software over all.

Anyone with a PI, a PI camera module or ZWO camera should give it a go if you want an allsky. Even putting it on a tripod whilst you image / observe and taking it back indoors after is a very good way to monitor the sky.

Pete have you tried this software on your PI?

https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky

Sorry, only lots of clouds recorded at that time!

I’ll have a look later tonight if I remember! Probably a lot of rain 😄

7 hours ago, Stickey said:

I could see separate rain showers about a mile or 2 apart. 

I've been stood in a field with heavy rain about 100 yards away and stayed bone dry. It was odd!