Jonk

I think I'll get the Baader LRGBs, they're less than half the price of the Astrodons and hoefully won't be too different. The Astrodon NB will be later on.

The rain has just appeared here again, after 4 hours of clear-ness!

They won't be on a DLSR, I'm upgrading to an 8300 CCD, so will be looking at LRGB and NB imaging.

From what I've read since, the general consensus is 'the narrower the better', especially for use during certain phases of the moon.

I can't find much on Baader vs AD RGBs though.....another topic.

Fair point Dave but these will be useable for hopefully many years to come.

I'm trying to decide on the 3nm or 5nm Astrodons (the moon point is in my mind too), and also which LRGB to go for - Baader or Astrodon?

Once they're bought that's it - money has gone, hence the need to get it right.

I'm looking at filters at the moment whilst compiling my unbearable shopping list!

Yes they're all expensive, but I want to buy the best I can while I can.

Is there a huge difference to a narrowband beginner between 5nm and 3nm Astrodons?

I mean mainly for the moonlight points above, at what phase of the moon are these filters usable worse case?

For full moon nights I will just play with lunar mosaics or plentary, or do something else!

I tried it both ways with the same result. (i.e. washer brass side and casting side of the rollers).

All 4 roller bearings (2 large, 2 small) have a washer either side.

Right - as I guessed, I had 3 washers on the RA axis - I can only assume one was stuck and when I reassembled it, I didn't notice, therefore having 2 on 1 side of the rollers.

I wrongly assumed they were spacers used when tested in the factory (like shims). Obviously not!

Moral of the story - check twice!

It's back together now and appears to be fine (offload), so tonight if it's clear and not too windy. I'll set up outside and test with weight on.

For others wanting a photo guide, I haven't got photos of every stage, but now know how it all works.

it really is straight forwards, probably easier than the HEQ5, so am happy to help where needed.

Yes, I've cleaned and dried it 2 or 3 times.

I wonder if I've put 3 washers in the RA axis, or 1 washer was missing? The mount is 2nd hand, not new.

Thanks for doing some photos, I hope they help.

No, that's a steel washer stuck to the roller bearings. The last picture is the empty casting.

That was my thought - is there supposed to be 1 either side of the bearings, as that would make sense?

Right, I've taken some photos of the DEC axis being disassembled. The only thing I can think that isn't right, is the roller bearings only have a metal disc / washer on 1 side, whereas I'm sure on the RA axis, it had 2, 1 either side of the bearings?

The roller bearings on the clutch wheel certainly has 1 either side.

I don't really want to pull apart the RA axis again to look, but I may have to if no one else is currently doing the same.

The fibre disc sits between the top of the shaft that holds the saddle and the brass gear, then the other side of the brass gear is the bearing ring, and metal washer / disc before the casting.

If that's not the right order I can't see it being another order?

Nope, the silver locking collar only screws on so far and it doesn't make any difference to the clutch if it's on or off.

Confused...

The problem with taking things apart for the first time is you can't always see how it's put together until you remove it!

I'll give that a try, but I think it was already at max.

Yep, on the RA axis.. That one works a treat, nice and tight and no backlash felt.

It's the Dec axis that isn't right.

The Dec clutch basically pulls the whole shaft onto the brass ring when tightened and when loosened, the whole shaft is free to turn. It's as though I've left a spacer out or something and the grip just isn't enough for the brass to turn the shaft, but I can't turn it by hand.

Whilst I disassembled the mount and put it back together fine, there's one thing I don't get.

The Dec clutch locks the Dec axis fine as expected, but the axis won't turn on the motor. The brass collar turns against the worm fine as I can test this with the shaft and collar out. It appears as though there's not enough grip between the brass, the disc and the collar.

Anyone else noticed this?

Whilst I have mine in bits, does anyone need to know anything?!

Good idea - mine was running on a 12v 100Ah battery the other night when I tried it, and I did notice the power LED flash which would indicate low volts.

The battery was charged (12.3V offload) and is relatively new so shouldn't be a power issue.

I will test this however with a current clamp and see what's going on whilst slewing, before I strip it down tomorrow.

Has anyone found the correct plug to make a DC PSU cable, rather then use the supplied fag lighter plug?

Yes, I'll do all that when I strip it - maybe tomorrow!

Hopefully it'll be fine after that.

Jonk have you had chance to use the Az yet?

I've only used it once with a 150P on it, but it's not running correctly as it makes an awful noise when slewing then stops slewing, only to start slewing again without issue.

It either needs stripping and cleaned / greased properly, or the power supply wasn't high enough.

Balance was good and everything as far as I know was connected properly.

I'll be happy to contribute as I've recently bought a year old AZ-EQ6.

I've stripped and rebuilt / tuned my HEQ5 pro already so I won't be afraid to do this one.

A friend of mine, who over the years has made his own 8" goto reflecting scope, on a custom EQ fork mount, and contributed massively to the Hampshire Astronomy Group observatory in Clanfield, is making a custom portable pier for his Intes-Micro Alter D6 mount.

He's recently become interested in astrophotography and needed something for the mount to go on, and likes making things himself. His custom scope cannot be easily balance adjusted for cameras / extras.

It's not complete as needs finishing / painting / powder coating etc. and I don't know the total cost at the moment, but I'll post more photos once complete.

I know a few of you will be interested, so please feel free to comment.

juan_fierros@yahoo.co.uk

I can also confirm a great service.

He modded my 1100D with a Baader filter and removed the anti-aliasing filter, sent on a Thursday, received back very early the following week.

48 hour turnaround is normally to be expected.

I noticed that 2 screws were missing, so I asked him if he had 2 spare, and I received these + philips 00 + 8gbsd card within 2 days.

Perfect.

Fantastic! That is all. Truly inspiring.. Must try harder.

As I said, it had a broken focuser so we chopped half the height off and ground off the plastic teeth (these were mashed). I also removed half of the focuser tube so it didn't protrude into the light path.

The focuser just slides up and down and I've fitted a securing screw to lock it. Not the easiest to focus, but it's only a test really.

A barlow wasn't wanted as it reduces the amount of light and the scope is slow as it is.

We'll be lucky to get more than a minute per sub on it I reckon.

Barlow required, unless there are mods happening...

Fairly drastic ones!

Exactly...The Dremmel has been in action!

It had a broken focuser so that was sacrificed and is now half the height it was.