hornedreaper33

Hey all, After losing my mojo for a time, I am finally back in the game. My kit has been evolving over the last few years and with the addition of the Jackery Explorer 300 battery, I'm finally all set. Anywho, I have been tackling M51. I'm having issues with my guiding, I think Windows 10 has finally evolved beyond my old laptop and I am getting intermittent connection issues with my guide camera as the computer struggles with life. Because of this, I am only managing 3 min subs. However, my subs seem very bright. See pictures below (example of a 2 min and a 3 min sub from my location. Bonus look at my first attempt at processing a DSO). I have the Optolong L-Pro installed as I am shooting from North Vancouver which is Bortle class 8. The longer the sub the brighter the background gets. I'm guessing this is because of the light pollution?? I'm not fully understanding how this filter is/isn't working. It seems like people are suggesting 10 min subs on this guy but, looks like I would wipe out all detail if I tried that from this location. Any help/advice, greatly appreciated.

Hey all, I have slowly been improving my astrophotography setup over the years and I have never been able to achieve the images I would like. I am finally getting into guiding and I still cannot produce those pin sharp images that you we all strive for even after focussing with a Bahtinov mask. While attempting to image NEOWISE_F3 last night I finally came to the conclusion that there is something going on with my telescope (was taking short subs with good enough polar alignment, still soft). Has anyone else on here struggled with achieving sharp focus with an SCT? I have Bob's knobs and collimation looks good but possibly I haven't spent enough time on it. I don't know, a little dismayed. All help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hey all, Wanted to share a little project I have completed. I have recently started guiding with my C8 on an AVX mount. PHD2 complained about my dec backlash and my average error was around 1.5". I discovered vendors offering tune-ups for the AVX and after reading this (http://rocketsparrow.blogspot.com/2017/01/how-i-made-better-celestron-avx.html), decided I could probably do it myself. After obtaining the correct bearing (32007 taper roller bearing 65 x 32 x 18), I stripped down the mount. As I have access to a machine shop, I was able to machine the bearing bore a little deeper. This avoids increasing the gap between the RA axis head and the body as the new bearing is wider. After cleaning everything and applying new grease, I reassembled with as little backlash as I could manage. The only other change I made was to cut down the big nylon (?) spacer that sits under the RA worm wheel so that it is the correct diameter. Well, the mount is back together and we have some clear sky coming this weekend so I will report back with my findings. Clear skies.

Nice print. Can anyone comment on the properties of FDM prints when they get very cold? My spidey sense tells me they might become brittle particularly when clamped up tight on an OTA. Hope they work out as intended.

The dew shield is the great big Celestron one for the C8. To be honest I'm asking a lot of my set up as it's been raining for two weeks. It's ridiculously humid here. I just need mains power on my dew heater so I have the ability to keep it cranked up.

Happy Friday everyone! Last night I was having a battle with dew. I had my dew strap turned up for the first 20 minutes while I was setting up and I noticed that the wire was pretty warm (Astrozap heater). After that I turned it down and lost the battle to the dew I have never noticed the heater wire get warm before. Is this normal when you have the heater turned up to 11? I think I'm going to be moving to a mains supply as my 8Ah lipo is getting wiped out in a couple of hours. Pocket Powerbox seems like a solid choice.

Thanks for the replies all. I don't think the OP was particularly clear. Sorry about that. What has come out of though is two things. I should have been updating my go-to alignment after ASPA, duh! Also I think for my location on that night Capella was a poor choice for PA. Lessons learnt. I need a better finder so I can start guiding...

Hey @PeterCPC, thanks for the reply. I'm just following instructions on the hand controller, sync with a star then the mount slews to where the star would be if your PA was correct and you bring it back to centre with Alt-Az adjustment. Hey presto. I've had this be pretty good in the past but the only thing I can think I was doing differently is how I moved to the first go-to alignment star. I usually disengage the RA and Dec clutches and move manually to centre the star in the finder. Engage the clutches and centre on screen with the hand controller. This time I did it all using the hand controller however, this would only affect go-to accuracy right?? Confused. We have a very good night coming up tonight and I hope I can get my PA dialled this time. I would like to use the polar alignment feature on sharp cap but I think my focal length is undesirable for that.

Hey all, finally had a clear night after two weeks of rain. Set up as per usual and excited to start using my Optolong L-Pro! Lined up AVX with polar alignment scope. Ran two star alignment (Vega and Altair) and added two calibration stars (Mirphak and Mirach). I did all star polar alignment on Capella and noticed the mount wanted to move a little further than I would have imagined. Long story short, I was aiming for 180 seconds on M33 and had no chance. Can anyone suggest any tips please? As I mentioned, we have had a lot of rain and I thought maybe the mount was moving in the damp ground however, it was on three approx 10" square pads that should have mitigated any movement. Thanks

Celestron technical support suggested this: https://agenaastro.com/baader-canon-dslr-t-ring-2-filter-container-nosepiece-dslr-t-2958550.html However, I did this:

Good evening all. A couple of nights ago I received my Optolong L-Pro light pollution filter yay! Problem was I foolishly assumed it would screw into the focal length reducer. WRONG! The filter did screw into the camera side of the T-Ring however, with it in place I couldn't attach the T-Ring to the camera. So, after searching the internet and starting another topic on SGL, I was left somewhat dismayed. Celestron technical support suggested a product that may do the job (https://agenaastro.com/baader-canon-dslr-t-ring-2-filter-container-nosepiece-dslr-t-2958550.html) but I didn't want to spend another $150. During the course of the search, I discovered that my Canon T-Ring and extender comes apart. Then this happened... Take that temporary setback.

Good morning all, I have just taken delivery of an Optolong L-Pro 2" (light pollution filter) and discovered I had no where to put it. See I made the silly mistake of assuming it would screw into the threads on my focal length reducer. The only other place I can see that it would go is on the inside of the Canon T-Ring but then the T-Ring doesn't fit into the camera body. Google isn't being a load of help and Celestron don't have anything obvious on there product list that will help. So fine folk of SGL, I turn to you. How can I make use of this expensive glass disc? Thank you.

Amazing image @DKNicholson. Thanks for the info all. I did a little more reading and decided to go with CDC due to the fact that it is a little easier on the laptop (graphically). .Net 3.5 installed, ASCOM drivers installed, Celestron drivers installed. Now all I need is for that Serial to USB adapter!

Good morning all, I have been slowly adding to my set up over the last couple of weeks and during a "practice" session I realised hey, I have BYEOS driving a camera, I have a laptop, I have the cable that came with the telescope, why not try plate solving. The next day I dug out the RJ to Serial cable and ordered the serial to USB adapter (yeah, thanks Celestron). I have installed and set up Astrotortilla but when it comes to controlling the mount I am a little unsure as to the finer points. My questions are: 1), Do I need planetarium software? I am not sure if I need this or I just need to download the ASCOM drivers. If the planetarium software is bundled with the drivers then I guess that is probably easier. 2) If so which one is best to use? My AVX mount shipped with a dated version of The Sky X First Light Edition. For some reason it doesn't want to find my location or check for updates. I looked at how much the software is to buy and yeah... I'd rather spend that money on a new finder. As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Clear skies.

Finally get a Bahtinov mask, the Celestron focal length reducer and polar alignment scope. Weather:

@Fraunhoffer Sorry for the slow reply, I was on holiday. When you remove the orange bearing plate, the weight of the mirror will slowly push the threaded shaft and bearing assembly out. Don't worry nothing will drop out. The mirror will stop and you will have a slightly sad looking telescope. Watch the installation video for the Feathertouch focuser if you want a proper look:

Correct @Fraunhoffer. My plan is to make a big top hat shaped piece that will bolt on in the same place as the stock focus assembly. The speed reducer is in the post and I'm going away for 10 days but as soon as it's made i'll post pictures.

There is a nice anodise orange plate held in by three M3 CSK screws that holds the bearing assembly in on the stock focus assembly. I'll just turn the body of my dual speed focuser to make use of what's already there ?

@Chriske, Thank you so much for the images. Unfortunately the C8 is very different and will require an adaptor to take it from the 0.5" focus shaft on the OTA to the 0.25" hole in the speed reducer. No matter, we have a lathe at work, I just wanted to see how you did it. I will watch the installation video from the Feathertouch website and see how they did it. @John, I appreciate they work very well but $350 is a bit steep. The reducer has cost $40 when all was said and done with shipping.

I was having trouble following it while I was typing haha. I'll try again, sorry. How does your DIY focuser attach to the actual focus assembly on the telescope? From this view it looks like there isn't much room to get an allen key in, to tighten a grub screw. For reference, when I pull the rubber knob off my C8 SCT, there is a 13mm (ish) diameter shaft.

I've ordered the stamped 6:1. The shipping from Oren Elliot was ridiculous. What is your preferred interface between the focus shaft/screw on the OTA and the focuser assembly?

@Gina, my searches lead me to believe that's exactly what they're for. God bless the radio hobbyists. @Chriske, I have seen those images popping up on Google. Thank you so much for sharing. I think I was hung up on the fact that people said they were getting the parts for a lot cheaper. I wonder if this is what Starlight Instruments are using or if they are making their own? Either way I think I shall be ordering soon and get myself a dual speed focus knob for a fraction of the price of the Feathertouch. I may even push the boat out and get it anodised ?

Hey @Chriske, thanks for the reply. If you could get a link for me please, that would be awesome. I have found these guys: http://www.orenelliottproducts.com/purchase-planetary-reduction-drive While they appear to be higher quality and available in 10:1, they are a bit more expensive.

Hey all, Last Friday afternoon at work I turned myself a larger diameter (57mm) focus knob that clamps onto the existing focus shaft on my C8 SCT with a grub screw. It was a great success. I found myself looking at it over the weekend thinking about making myself a dual speed focus control. Has anyone on here tried to replicate something like the Starlight Instruments Feathertouch? I have been lead to believe they use planetary balls rather than gears to reduce backlash. I have found some small planetary gearsets which will do the job but has anyone seen a supplier of planetary ball sets? Another problem with the gears is that I can only get 4:1 in 35mm diameter and 6:1 in 57mm diameter. I guess I could have two sets in series but that would increase the backlash (insert other problems I have yet to think of). Anywho, if there are any people out there who have experience in DIY'ing one of these, I would appreciate the input. Clear skies.

Good morning @FarAndBeyond. While I am a noobie myself, I have been using one of these since I first started: https://www.tracerpower.com/12v-8ah-lithium-polymer-battery-pack.html Very small, light and capable. When I moved to Canada they even sent me the NA power adaptor for free. I haven't ventured into the all night imaging sessions yet so I can't say how the 8Ah will last for that. Otherwise I have been very pleased with it.