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FarAndBeyond

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About FarAndBeyond

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    Northern Europe
  1. Okay so im back in my old thread here. So haven't had too many times to do further testing, only a couple of times. I've managed to get the stars to smaller pinpricks, but they still does not look like on the photos I see online, the stars I see on photos are more of concentrated pricks of light, i.e. brighter and more concentrated, what I see in the eyepiece is more of diffuse and dimmer dots (that are not perfectly spherical), its a bit hard to explain. Can it have to do with the fact that on photos there is more light collected because of the longer exposure time so that makes them look different from the look in the eyepiece? And a couple of more questions, the so called airy disc with the rings i have been reading about....i don´t get anything that looks remotely to an airy disc regardless of if im in focus or not, so whats the deal with that? Should it always be visible? Also, when im using an eyepieces with a high magnification, for example a 4mm eyepiece in the scope i only see completely black when looking through the eyepiece even though i have objects in front of the scope, its like there is something blocking the light from entering the eyepiece. But when looking through it in the daytime I can see through the eyepiece just fine. Surely stars should be bright enough to be visible even through a high magnification eyepiece?
  2. So im sure this battery topic has been discussed before, but i´m a bit confused about what type of battery is most suitable for powering the HEQ5 Pro mount. I mean what type of lead acid battery is to be used. Ive seen different ones, some using for example AGM, and others GEL based batteries, etc. So which of these different lead acid battery technologies does handle the most charge cycles and handles deep charges the best, i.e. the things that are important and suitable for our purposes? Since some of these batteries are good for only short bursts of many amps, i.e. starting a car, while others are more suited to slowly discharge. Ive seen people talk about leisure batteries, but what technology do they use?
  3. So I ultimately went for the Canon EOS 1200D with the 18-55mm kit lens (unfortunately with the version 3 lens without image stabilisation, but maybe that isn't important in AP anyway?) Bought it just 2 days ago, so i´m in the process of reading the manual. Had a clear night yesterday and pointed the camera against the sky and could not see a single star on the live view screen, the screen was completely black, I didn't try taking any pictures since I didn't know the correct settings for that type of photography (im a total noob in both photography and astronomy). So was it maybe the settings that were wrong, or aren't the stars usually visible on the live view screen before a shot is taken?
  4. By the way, can I get a live view on my computer and not only on the cameras screen with all these above models? Also does all Canon DSLR cameras have the bulb mode? And can one use the DSLR to check drift alignment, for example with PHD2? Is there a list somewhere that shows which of these Canon DSLR cameras is 12-bit and which are 14-bit?
  5. Thanks for your inputs. Okay So the 14-bit processing is an important thing? So how important is the number of megapixels on the camera in AP, since the 1100D haven't that many megapixels (12.1 mp). Also is ISO 6400 enough, is more than 6400 ever used in AP? Since I will be using the DSLR purely for AP it doesn't have to work good for daytime photo, i´m actually prepared to remove the IR cut filter myself if that can be done pretty safely without a too big of a risk of destroying the camera? But like you said they seem pretty cheap used so one can buy another camera for daytime photo if one wants to do that later, right now im doing any daytime photography with my mobile camera, im not a photographer. But I guess one must also look at the maximum possible ISO of a camera, since ive seen some of the Canon´s manages only ISO 1600, surely that can´t be enough? So to sum it up, the live view, numbers of processing bits, maximum ISO value, and preferably a tilting screen, and possibly the magepixel count, is that what to look for in a DSLR for AP, or is there anything else? Okay so the 1100D seems to work fine then, and so does the 1300D, 2000D, 650D, 600D, etc. I guess?
  6. So i´m looking to buy a DSLR camera purely for AP, it will be my first one and i´m new to AP so i´m thinking I want to start out with a cheaper one. I´m looking to buy a used camera and preferably a Canon. So which cheaper models are suitable for AP. I have been eyeing a used Canon EOS 1100D ( I think its called Rebel T3 in the US?) with the 18-55 mm lens included. It seems to have live view and a max ISO of 6400, and a 12.1 megapixel sensor (is 6400 ISO and 12.1 mp enough?) So would this camera work as a starter camera for AP? if no why? And what functions and specifications is important to have in a DSLR which is going to be used purely for AP? Thankful for some input.
  7. Thanks for the info, I have read it and I will have to look into that more carefully, but after reading it seems a bit complicated, maybe it isn't, but there were some mathematical calculations etc. that confused me a bit. Maybe it isn't so hard once you learn it and understand how it works?
  8. Yes that was the page I was talking about in my previous post, there Astrobaby says the following: "mounts manufactured after 2008 are based on my own experience better in many respects, the overall quality control (QC) seems better. Older mounts were often loaded with a dreadful lubricant". So I dont know if this is the case that mounts manufactured after 2008 really are better than those pre 2008, or if thats only her own experience like she says? The motor controller board version on my mount according to the Synscan hand controller is 02.04.01, I don´t know how new that version is? But it seems I have not the latest HEQ5 Pro mount since as far as I have understood the absolutely latest versions has the green coloured setting circles and a green dovetail mounting plate, while my setting circles are silver coloured and the dovetail is black.
  9. Oh so there has been a black Skywatcher HEQ5 version, I thought the black HEQ5´s were the Orion brand? Somebody wrote on his website in a HEQ5 versions timeline info page that he thinks the mounts made after 2008 is better than those pre 2008, maybe this was the change he was referring to?
  10. Actually the noise i´m referring to is present when not tracking, directly after it shows the version information on the Synscan HC.
  11. Okay interesting, how about the possibility that the mount itself caused the voltage spikes etc. and the problem not coming from outside the mount, for example the motors causing spikes (if thats possible) or something else, would the power regulator on the board protect against that types of things? By the way I see that the picture on the board you attached says "Rev. B", so is there several revisions up until now, if so has there been any changes in performance or other changes between the different revisions, and is the B revision the latest, when did they switch to Rev.B? Anybody knows this?
  12. Well I don´t have a view direct south, more like 20 degrees to the East of south direction. I was playing around with the Polar align Pro app which I just bought, to be honest it gives me even more questions. For example since my Skywatcher 2012-2032 reticule is not aligned properly with the vertical axis the app said there is a way to "set zero position", one is then suppose to look at the SynScan HC at the "show information"(?) in Utility function and the R.A info there and then slew to the R.A position that the app gives. Well when I slew in the R.A direction (left/right) the R.A numbers is not changing unless I first slew in the DEC direction (up/down), then if I have first slewed in DEC direction and after that slew in only the R.A direction the R.A value changes, but not if I start out with slewing in R.A. Also when I slew in the DEC direction the R.A numbers are changing as well. Also, its the same thing with the Alt/AZ information, it always shows 360 degrees as a starting point and my Altitude, and if I start with slewing left or right the Azimuth value is not changing, however if starting with Altitude slewing first and then slew in the Azimuth direction only then the Azimuth value changes, exactly like with the R.A/DEC info. And same thing here that while slewing in DEC the Azimuth value changes at the same time. Why would the R.A value change when slewing only in DEC, or the Azimuth value while slewing only in Altitude, since the actual R.A axis is obviously not moving when slewing only in DEC? And why wouldn't the R.A or Azimuth value change when slewing in those directions until I have first slewed in the DEC/Altitude direction? The only thing that changes values at all times and independently is the third information option, AX1 and AX2. Also, when I try moving/"slewing" in DEC/Alt in a planetarium program the R.A/Az values are not changing however? Is this how it supposed to be? Maybe I haven't grasped this thing? Very confusing to me? P.S. Maybe I should add that the above is without doing a star alignment, and directly after power on, I haven't tried to look at the information after star alignment, but I guess it will be no difference in how the R.A/DEC information is showed on the Synscan?
  13. I have visibility between about 70° East to 160° South (clockwise). So no visibility towards North and not towards West. So does that mean that I can not do drift alignment? My scope is at 1000 mm focal length (Explorer 200P-DS). It sounds as there are a few ways to do reasonable tracking without a proper polar alignment (Polaris visibility), but to me it sounds as if they are not perfect (i.e. comparable to a real polar alignment) and that they also are time consuming, but maybe im wrong? I actually don´t mind if it takes some time, especially if the time consuming part doesn´t need to be done at every observation (provided the mount hasn't been moved)?. But its nice to know that there are options for us people who doesn´t have Polaris visibility. My goal is to have good enough tracking to be able to do Deep sky photography (not yet though), i.e. good tracking for the exposure times which are needed for this kind of photography. Thalestris24 was mentioning CMOS cameras taking several shorter exposures, in comparison to a CCD which take fever long exposures I guess, which ive also read about online. So one could say in other words that generally a CMOS doesn´t need high tracking accuracy for as long time as a CCD camera, meaning it will have to track accurate for a shorter time than with a CCD? Or am I wrong about that thought? About the comment that my mistake was to buy a EQ mount in the first place....of course it was not a mistake. How else should I learn if I dont have a mount in front of me? One can do all the reading in the world (which I have done quite a bit before I purchased the mount, and yes even the thin manual as well) but that doesnt compare to having access to the physical mount, and also thats part of the fun to learn as you go. I like a challenge, and when there are good forums around that helps a great deal with the learning as well.
  14. Thanks, yes that really helped. Nice to get it explained exactly what is making that sound, and to hear its perfectly normal. Thanks for that. While am at it....i´m right now using a 12V power adaptor powered from mains (220V) to power my HEQ5 Pro, should I have some safeguarding against transients / voltage spikes? I read in another thread here on SGL that voltage spikes can occur when turning the mount off, and maybe it was also possible when turning it on? And that this could fry the boards inside the mount. Actually as far as I have understood the stepper motors themselves causes voltage spikes, is the HEQ5 Pro protected against that, if yes how? I obviously don´t want that to happen so if there is any chance for that happening I would like to protect the mount from that. Is there any devices to buy that protects against transients of all kinds so it doesn´t happen on the mount?
  15. Sorry to comment in a thread that is 6 years old, but I thought I don't need to start a new thread for this same question. I have been unsettled by a buzzing or whining sound that comes from my HEQ5 Pro as soon as its turned on and before it starts to track, this sound stays on as long as the power is ON on the mount and the mount is not slewing etc. I don't know if its the same sound that some people in this thread are mentioning they have on their mounts, since some people were talking about their mounts making a noise when its tracking or slewing, thats not the noise I´m meaning. So thats why I wanted to ask this question to get it clarified. To me it sounds like a noise from the "electronics", dont know if this kind of sound is generally considered normal in different kinds of electronics, to me it sounds as something that maybe shouldn't be there? So is this the same sound you have on your mounts (a buzzing/whining/hissing sound that starts almost directly at power on and is hearable when the mount is at idle)? If thats normal then does anybody know exactly which part inside the mount makes that sound? Im curious to know what makes that sound?
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