niallk

11 hours ago, Carbon Brush said:

the stock focusser was a bit basic.

To the OP: I upgraded to the Moonlight option - highly recommended!  The stock helical focusser is usable, but the fine dual speed control of the Lunt is just what you want to pull out those crisp fine line details 😎

13 hours ago, pbyrne said:

Hi guys

I have observed in white light, now I want to go down the h-alpha route.  I am leaning towards the Lunt 50mm as it appears to have everything I am looking for.

Has anyone used the Lunt zoom eyepiece?

Paul

I got this one I think it's the same as the Lunt (but cheaper):

https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p4651_TS-Optics-Premium-Zoom-Eyepiece--7-2-mm-to-21-5-mm---1-25-.html

It's pretty handy - performance drops at the 7mm end of the adjustable range, but ~9 -15mm is the range I use the most.

+1 for Lunt support!

Can't comment on Coronado, but I love my LS50DS 😎

The Telrad is a most worthy winner! 😂

21 minutes ago, LukeSkywatcher said:

I agree. The Leviathan telescope surely must be one of the most historic telescopes. 

It's only about an hours drive from me, but I've never visited. 

I visited Birr Castle and saw it years ago - before I got into astronomy 🙄  Must go back again.

It was very impressive though - I was especially impressed by the commitment to build and use it - given the severe limitations in terms of Az motion!!! (...and given irish weather - limited ability to work around clouds)

All the real winners I'd suggest are already well covered! 😉

This telescope has had quite an influence on ATMers and large aperture for amateurs over the last few decades:

Very cool - I want one!  The creator posted a thread over on CN:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/406276-a-solid-30-mm-f10-schmidt-cassegrain/

I want to install boundary layer fans, and they'll blow 😉

The Flame is often disappointing from my location, but one special night - wow, loads of lovely detail!!  Those really transparent dark nights are like gold dust, but when they come along... 🙂

Drool.... 😉

My deepest sympathies to his family and friends.  His presence here will continue to be missed.

3 hours ago, AstroNash said:

Haha ok here it is! I asked it to include details about secondary offset too 😂

Collimating a DOB (Dobsonian telescope) involves aligning the primary mirror in the telescope so that it is in the correct position and orientation. This process is necessary to ensure that the telescope produces sharp and accurate images.

Here is a guide on how to collimate a DOB:

1. Begin by visually inspecting the telescope to ensure that the primary mirror is securely fastened and that the secondary mirror is in the correct position.

2. Next, shine a bright light into the telescope's focuser and look for the reflection of the secondary mirror in the primary mirror. The reflection should appear as a small circle in the center of the primary mirror.

3. If the reflection of the secondary mirror is not centered in the primary mirror, use the collimation screws on the back of the secondary mirror holder to adjust its position.

4. Once the reflection of the secondary mirror is centered, adjust the primary mirror collimation screws to align the primary mirror.

5. Repeat steps 2-4 until the secondary mirror is centered and the primary mirror is aligned.

6. Finally, check the collimation of the telescope by looking through the eyepiece while aiming at a bright star. If the star appears as a small, sharp point, the collimation is correct. If the star appears as a blur, repeat the collimation process.

It's important to note that Secondary offset is the adjustment of the secondary mirror position in relation to the primary mirror. This is done by adjusting the position of the secondary mirror holder using collimation screws. Secondary offset is important in ensuring that the telescope is properly collimated and that the eyepiece is positioned correctly in the focuser.

 

Voila!  Makes it sound so easy 😂

Well, now you can just kill those threads with 53 pages of discussion on CN with this!

I notice my eye 'tuning in' - from being blasted by sunlight, to putting my head under a towel to observe with my LS50DS.  This happens even when the scope has been out for a few hrs, and has reached equilibrium- and I've come back for another look.

I enjoy how very fine detail becomes more apparent as one observes!

Just had it out today for the first time in quite a while, and a joy to see the activity on show 😎

Ask it how to collimate a dob, and let's see what it says about secondary offset! 😂

👍👍👍

Beautiful!!

11 hours ago, Nigella Bryant said:

OK, I'm going to get some flack with this. I see many post's about new eyepieces arriving and pic's with all the others they have. The cost of some more than some of my scopes, lol. 

I confess at the beginning, I either use my Astro cameras to view on the computer screen or image with same camera's. I don't get why so many eyepieces and sometimes expensive one's. I own about three eyepieces but invariably use just the 32mm sometimes to centre an object before inserting the camera. 

So, may the controversy begin, lol. 

😂 somewhat agree!

Visual only, and my set was a 24Pan, N13T6 and a N7T6- plus a PM2.5x.  Tbh, could have stuck with that 3 EP set and been very happy in my 250px.  Full confession- I also have 2x 15mm TV plossls for binoviewing.

Then I got a 15" dob, and succumbed to the allure of 100° afov, and now use another set: 17-10-6 Ethos, with an 8E and a N31T5 thrown in.  It was complete indulgence... I could have stuck with my original trio, possibly adding an N9T6 and be done - being totally honest.  I just fell for the huge afov experience- a nagler felt narrow after trying it!

On 13/12/2022 at 03:18, kingsbishop said:

Here is something that I don’t understand if you want to reduce weight of the telescope how come people don’t use less focal length on telescopes and instead using smaller focal length eyepieces or barlows I understand that it would effect the eye relief but that wouldn’t be a big deal especially if your using a camera so what is the real reason do you lose light or something can someone please tell me?

At least for a dob, the main weight that is cumbersome is the mass of the mirror.  To first order, it is more a function of aperture than focal length.  Reducing focal length exacerbates other challenges and increases cost - like the 28" Webster above.

Did the optician also recommend Ethos EPs and a Paracorr 2 for that big aperture? 😉

1 hour ago, Piero said:

Some very pretty telescopes in this thread! 

Not sure whether my dobs are considered pretty, as I focused more on their function, but I like them.  

 

I certainly consider them pretty

The 2nd one is all your own work, isn't it?  Beautiful job! (+on the observing chair too!)

Wouldn't kick this scope out of bed 😂  All $78k of it 😯

I love my little LS50DS. I do think it looks pretty - beautifully machined, but it's more than skin deep: how these marvels are engineered on the inside / the physics of how they work is their real beauty, imho!! 😍 

4 hours ago, Steve Ward said:

https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/this-beautiful-art-nouveau-telescope-can-be-yours

Could see this scope design being unmercifully ripped to shreds over on CN 😂😂

Lack of provision for rear cooling, that focusser (yuk!), secondary collimation, looks like vibration suppression would be a nightmare, no provision for a shroud for body heat elimination from light path, etc... It would want to come with a Zambuto 🤣

Give me a SW 250px anyday!

It's a 30+ year old design very much based on practicality and functionality, and parts readily available in a DIY shop (bar a couple of custom cast items), but to my eye, aesthetically beautiful too!

I use 2: 15" dob for everything at night, and a lovely little LS50DS for solar by day!!

Well I have a third, a 130P, but I don't use it.  If I'm going to go out, the 15" has me spoiled.

10mm Ethos - beautiful performer in my 15" f4.5 dob.

Though I love the Pan24, and the N13T6 is a little gem 😉