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A40farinagolf

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Posts posted by A40farinagolf

  1. On 22/04/2020 at 17:52, osbourne one-nil said:

    At the moment, I have these...mostly as a result of trying to decide what works best for me, but something will have to go at some point.....probably. 

    20200422_175002.jpg

    20200422_172900.jpg

    Superb collection, I couldn't part with any of those, of the 3 pairs I'd expect the L series Canon IS to best suit me. Which do you prefer and why? 

  2. On 16/09/2020 at 21:38, PaulM said:

    is that the Mid-Cheshire Astronomical Group? is it a good club as im looking for one to attend once covid sorts itself out

    Yes its a great club and I'd recommend it, we haven't met for quite a while for obvious reasons however we have a monthly zoom call with presentations, sharing photos and news updates etc, its held on the last Friday of the month. Have a look at the facebook page for more info. https://www.facebook.com/groups/243183369351766 

    • Thanks 1
  3. I don't specifically buy kit to make me happier however if the kit helps me achieve my astronomy objectives then this will make me happier. 

    I own loads of kit that I chop and change on a regular basis, researching, buying and then setting up / using an assortment of astro equipment is more rewarding for me than using the same equipment for several years - each to their own.  

  4. On 28/04/2020 at 21:17, TerryMcK said:

    That is a very nice lens. I wouldn’t personally try to fudge making a 48mm filter fit a 78mm front element. Just get the IDAS D2 clip in. Problem solved. Keep the 48mm one for the WO scope or other 2 you have.

    I agree with your suggestion, I was trying to find a way of utilising it differently without ending up with any major compromises but I don't think that's possible.

  5. I've managed to instruct Stellarium to index my CEM25P mount to selected items via a StarFi wifi link and touch wood it seems to work very well.

    The quandary I have is how does Stellarium know where it's pointing if I don't tell it the origin of it's travels.

    Does it assume it's initially pointing to Polaris or do I have to give it a datum / starting point ?

  6. Tagged onto this old thread as it partly help me to achieve what I wanted.

    Whilst cosy and warm in the dining room I've managed to instruct Stellarium to index my CEM25P mount to selected items via a StarFi wifi link and touch woods it seems to work very well.

    The quandary I have is that Stellarium did not know where the actual scope was pointing, however it still showed a telescope circle label on the night sky display.

    The software then issued commands based on a starting position in the sky that it believed my scope was actually pointing at.

    How do I align Stellarium to the actual starting position? or am I missing a trick?

     

     

  7. On 04/12/2019 at 08:39, happy-kat said:

    Maybe the poster will clarify but I thought the question was a package that would start, do and produce an image automatically with little user input, rather than one package that does everything but needs lots of user input.

    I appreciate the feedback and it sounds like what I'm looking for doesn't exist as I'd prefer one intuitive software package that would allow me to capture and process a range of images, I'm not looking to achieve Sky at Night quality images, just something that is pretty good (whatever that means) - 

  8. Apologies if this has been asked before.

    I have loads of kit - cameras, mounts (EQ and AZ), scopes etc and have dabbled a little at AP after receiving advice from this forum but I've never really achieved anything of significance mainly because of time limitations and a lack of IT skills. I've never taken flats or bias frame or anything else like that either.

    What I'm looking for is a software package that would capture the image and then perform simple processing step to achieve an image that is subjectively good.

    It needs to be intuitive and easy to remember so that I can pick it up again quickly if there's a long period between uses.

    I am willing to buy a license if it's not freeware.

    Ideally it would manage moon + planetary ZWO camera videos, DSLR stills  and also DSO.

    Please let me have your suggestions.

     

     

  9. 33 minutes ago, geordie85 said:

    There's a second hand one on ABS at the moment for £280 (which is too expensive if you ask me). 

    I have one of these that I bought 2nd hand off here and my star field is pretty flat after alot of fettling. 

    Do you have the list at hand? And what's the best way of reducing tilt as I still have slight tilt in one of my corners. 

    Thanks

    image.png.cf9724fe37317f67f15488d9206cc1e3.png Is this the list that you're looking for?

    • Like 1
  10. On 09/11/2019 at 09:38, david_taurus83 said:

    The 66-88mm adjustment means you can use it on a variety of WO scopes. Each scope has an optimum distance the flattener works at from the lens elements to the camera sensor. Its discontinued anyway unless you already have one.

    https://williamoptics.com/hot-tech-adjustable-reducer-flattener

    Many thanks and I already have one that came with a WO110 mm triplet.

    So for each camera do I have to use trial and error to find the best setting for the flattest FOV?

    Does it adjust the focus in any way? 

  11. Being honest too many - please don't tell my wife:

    Fujinon 7 x 50 FMT - SX

    Hawke 8 x 56 ED Endurance

    Celestron Granite 9 x 33

    Celestron Granite 12 x 50

    Pentax 10 x 50 S series WP

    Lunt Engineering 16 x 70

    Lunt Engineering 100 x 45 deg angled with interchangeable eyepieces

    Several fieldscopes but that's another story and they don't count!

     

     

     

  12. Hi,

    Can someone explain please how the flattener below is designed to be used. (hopefully not too daft a question)

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/william-optics-brand/william-optics-afr-iv-08x-reducer-flattener-iv.html

    I know that my Canon DSLR connects directly onto one end via a T2 ring and that the other 2" end goes straight into the telescope.

    I know that the internal lenses move towards and away from the sensor as the barrel is rotated.

    What does 66 to 88mm mean?

    What should I set it to or my Canon 600D?

    What should I set it to for a ZWO ASI 174 camera? 

     

     

  13. 9 hours ago, Ben the Ignorant said:

    All I could find was this:

    http://r2.astro-foren.com/index.php/de/10-beitraege/02-ed-optiken-halb-apos-und-frauenhofer-systeme/677-b045-02-how-to-collimate-a-apm-100-bino

    I've never done that job but I assume an extremely distant lamp can act as an artificial star. The parallax with a target several kilometers away has to be negligible.

    Thanks - an interesting article that I'll read in detail and will then consider my options.

  14. I have a pair of Lunt Engineering 100mm 45 degree APO binoculars and I'm struggling to get the 2 images to merge together.

    I tried them on Saturn tonight with a variety of good quality eyepieces at different magnifications with and without my reading glasses but no joy.

    Varying the inter pupillary distance also made no difference.

    Is it a job that's do-able from home with the right kit or do I need to send them away - if yes who to please?

    Thanks in advance,

    M

     

     

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