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Wyvern

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Posts posted by Wyvern

  1. Hi Brendan,

    As vlaiv notes, a bit off for the Hyades cluster. With a Field of View roughly 1 x 2 degrees, you'll only capture parts of it, so yes, a mosaic will be needed.  For reference, the bright blue star in your shot is Rho Tau  ( p ) and your field of view is roughly that of the stellarium screenshot No 1 below.  Screenshot No 2 shows the whole of the "V" of the Hyades cluster.

    Regards,

    Les

    stellarium screenshot 1.jpg

    stellarium screenshot 2.jpg

  2. Hi,

    For interest, I run a 8" SkyWatcher reflector at f/5 and don't use a coma corrector at all.

    Never really felt it necessary though to be fair, the scope is mainly used for imaging and not visual use, so any "iffy" stars at the edges of the field of view can simply be cropped out as reqd in processing.

    Unless you are totally convinced you need a corrector, save your money.

    Regards, Les

  3. Hi,

    I'm by no means an expert on telephoto's and how they should work, but what I will say is that when running my Canon 1100d and 100d models, is that star focus is always acheived before reaching the infinity mark on every lens I've used, and that's for both Canon brand and other manufacturers lenses in my kit.

    Kinda leaning towards "faulty" lens if you're still trying to get to focus at the infnity stop with 135mm and higher.

    Sorry,

    Les

  4. Just throw my hat into the ring on this thread.

    A while back, I invested in a replacement focusser for my 8" f5 SkyWatcher and discovered as a result of shorter focus travel, that I'd need to move the main mirror up the tube by some 10-15 mm. Whilst having the mirror backplate off the scope, I reasoned it a good time to fit a "cooling fan" to the setup. 

    In time honoured tradition I followed the NUMPTI approach - (Never Use More Product Than Intellect).

    Located "redundant" 4" dia, 6V computer cooling fan and connected wiring through on/off switch to USB connector. This then plugs into my USB hub for power. 5v output from hub is enough to "get things turning." I'd wired it up to blow air from the mirror back, up and out the top of the tube. Unlike Space Hopper, I'm clearly more of a "blower" than "sucker". 😉

    Chunked out 4"ish dia hole in mirror backplate and attached fan through rubber "O" rings to outside of backplate.

    Did the whole move mirror/re collimate thing and remounted backplate to scope body.

    Switched on power and on removing front dust cover, felt a "reasonable" flow of air being pushed out therefore assuming that everything was working as "planned".

    In practice, on entering the obsy I power up and remove front dust cap from scope. By the time I've rolled the roof back, fired up the laptop, initiated Stellarium and FireCap and then sent the scope to a decent 1st mag star to do a focus test on, it's time to switch off the fan and get down to "serious business". It certainly does help get the scope down to working temp much quicker with a minimum of fuss.

    Would be delighted to show some piccys of the setup, but fractured my ankle so am out of action for the next couple of weeks. Please make the most of the exceptionally clear and transparent skies that you'll now be getting as a result of my "sacrifice". 💩

    Regards to all,

    Les  👨‍🦽 

    • Like 1
  5. Adian,

    Sorry, only just spotted your post above.

    Can only report that during the past year+ of useage, there have been no signs of cracking or movement in the blocks so I don't think you'll have any issues.

    Bottom block is half cemented into ground and the two blocks are secured together with Evo-stick "Sticks like s**t" adhesive and a coach bolt.

    Best wishes, Les

    • Thanks 1
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