wavydavy

Abell 39 planetary nebula taken 5 yrs apart. The first one was taken with a MN190 Scope, an Atik 314L mono, and was a bicolor pic using h-alpha and OIII. Cant remember the exact details but fairly sure it was 15 x 8 min exposures. The second pic was a different camera, a Zwo ASI 553MC Pro. 12 x 6 min exposures, the scope was  an Altair astro Ascent 4 inch refractor, also used an altair astro triband filter, guided with PHD2 and used an Ioptron CEM 120 Mount. Hope you like!

Here again in JPEG..............

Ive tryed..............for some reason im having an issue...bit weird. Will keep on it.....

As usual a great service from Altair astro, and having recently brought a ASI ZWO 553 MC PRO, I wanted to give the triband filter a go, im use to imaging in narrowband, and having made the jump from mono to colour, I realised I needed at lease a LP filter, to improve my pics. Ive uploaded 2 pics (pic 1 no filter, pic 2 with), the clouds rolled in and on each night I only managed 1 sub with and another without. The object is NGC 6888, Crescent nebula. Both are 5 min subs, the extra nebulosity is as expected is on the AA Triband filter, in fact the image without the filter was much better conditions, as the pic with the filter, also had some faint cloud running through the image. Also ive noticed the stars are much better, not as blotted. Looking forward to giving this a proper go, when things improve......whats everyones thoughts??

cresent 5 min no filter.fit cresent 5 min tri filter.fit

Thanks scotty 38!

Taken last night through my Altair astro ascent 4 inch at F7. Camera was a ZWO  553MC Pro no filter except a baader IR Cut filter to help control the stars (awaiting LP filter in the post). Mount was an Iptron CEM 120, guided with PHD2 (Lodestar x2). 10 x 5 mins each.

Thanks again everyone...............comments are always better than likes!!

Yes Chris..............I usually do mono with my atik but wanted a colour camera for speeding up the process with limited imaging time.  Some small niggles and I need to get a LP Filter of some sort. Thanks for your comment.............

Thanks for your comments! Much appreciated.

M27 Taken through a Altair astro Ascent 4" scope at f7 (714mm). 12 X 6 Min exposures. Mount CEM 120, PHD2. I also used a Baarder IR Filter to help control the stars. Still getting use to the camera as ive just recently got it (usually mono), will get a LP Filter soon.............hope you like.

Yeah the dark circle is a dust speck, in the imaging train. the sharper it is the closer it is to the imaging chip. Ie........on the optical window, or even worse its got inside between the glass and the chip, typicaly done when changing dessicant in the chamber if its a cooled CCD or CMOS ). if its a larger fainter circle its usualy on something like the filters ect......its a really good first attempt, and you should be happy with your result. Always keep your early images, and as you progress go back over them to see how much better you get, you will be surprised!  Well done.

All from last night, M13, M27 and M92. M27 was 12 x 6 min exposures, while the globulars was 3 min exposures 10 off each. Taken through a 4 inch Altair astro ascent at F7 (With flattener). The P/N was in h-alpha (7nm). The camera was an Atik 314L, Guilded throught an ioptron CEM 120 mount.

I have the exact Starwave -ascent scope.  Its not bad for narrowband..........

I have the same issue using my RGB filters using baarder 1.25". The blue is terrible compared to the red and green.  My camera is an Atik 314L mono,  the blue channel is terrible compared to the red and green. 

Awesome...........what you would expect from a planewave scope.

I second Martins comment, defo needs a flattener in the image train. A great shot anyway,  Orion nebula is a tricky object due to its HDR. Well done!

1 hour ago, Pete Presland said:

Agreed, edge rind artefact.

I have tried many methods to reduce it. During capture, during stacking and final processing. I have had a little improvement by keeping the alignment boxes during stacking away from the limb areas. best idea is to have a sharpened image and an unsharpened image and using layers combine the two together to mask some of the artefact.

Cheers for your help............Dave.

On 09/01/2021 at 22:57, astroman001 said:

It's edge rind, Google it. Quite normal I'm afraid. It's caused by diffraction and always affects the bright high contract limb of small bright planets.

You can see it on my image just posted.

Peter

Yes in the end I did find this out.............thanks!

Still a great pic, im a newbie to planetary imaging, im hoping you can help, over several days, ive had exactly the same issue with the edge like you mensioned, but my camera is a mono. Do you know what causes this? Is it the seeing conditions? As ive not managed to get rid of this.......Regards Dave.

Will an ADC work with a mono camera, and improve the seeing/image, or is it purely for visual or colour cameras??

Nice....very nice!

Again in jpeg

Hi there, 

                Total newbie to imaging planets, and im after some help with my images. Each time I go out to try to capture mars, I get a strange half halo (from around 12 o clock to 3 approx). Ive literally had a handful of attempts at planetary, im mainly into astrophotography. This become apparent after I stack using autostakkert or registax. My equipment is a C11 Edge HD, 2 x barlow, Baarder IR pass filter (makes no difference without the filter same issue), ASI 120MM S camera. Looking at the picktures....anyone have any ideas?

19_24_53_lapl5_ap9_conv.tif

On 02/01/2021 at 19:34, JayStar said:

Thats a great image, especially at that focal length.

Guiding / tracking must have been excellent.

Where did you take this from and what were the sky conditions like?

I took the image near rochester in kent. The sky was ok at the time, think there was some moon glow though. Its much harder at longer focal length than im use to, moe scrapped images then keepers! Dave.

Doing the mod is easier than organising a plane id imagine!