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Everything posted by Erquy

  1. Hi, I am quite happy for this little affordable lens. Below my first light, NGC7822 with SX694 mono. 2 hrs each SHO (10 min subs). Processed in pixisnght (stars have been reduced). Well corrected for this chip size, fast. One need to pay attention to get right focuse. Very well built lens. I did a quick test on RGB and it looks also good in RGB. Will try on APS-C later on. David
  2. Hi, I tried a composite image of first quarter moon together with a full moon, the bright part was taken in RGB with SX694 mono camera and it was 6 pan mosaic with a C8 with FR while the full moon (darker part here), was taken with a WOGT81. David
  3. Erquy

    2sd pier

    Now in action. Seems to work very well. Only a few shots before clouds came in tonight, added to some previous andromeda picture
  4. hi i just posted a description (quick) of my 2sd pier (’light one’ noheavy duty gear), see my post david
  5. Hi just wanted to share building a quick and cheap pier for my avx - 2 brake plate - 20 kg concrete - 4 M8 bolts - a premade concrete block for patio, deck , with 1 central top bolt about 50 kg, 70 cm height) - a square block for the base i used some few blocks of pavements, digged about 30 cm deep, pour concrete and add on then square block and pier, to cover about almost allup concrete. so we will see if it is robust enough and handles vibration. In any case - really quickly done, cheap (about 70 euros, brake plates being the expensive part), very little concrete to work out, it took less than 2 hours to make - the plates can be rotated (if polar alignment is totally off), as beingscrewed on the pier by 1 central bolt only (on the picture it shows on the right -not mounted here- cheers david
  6. Both: nebulosity to capture and pixinsight for processing. Nebulosity is really simple to use, to set up and easily integrated with other (it works fine with plate solving astrotortilla, as well as for dithering etc). Sequences can be built easily (not that user friendly but once you have save few sets scripts then you are ready to go! And I remember to have seen a script generator for it somewhere). Its focusing function is wonderful, after a while, it will just take a minute and less. I did try some other capture program, but always came back to Nebulosity. I never had a bug with it (I am on 4.1 since very long and run win10 all up to date). I used its calib/stack/processing function and it was a good starting point to learn processing images before going into PI. For processing today, I do it all in PI. Long learning curve but follow some youtube starting tutorial and take your time to learn it (... you will never learn it all I think... years I am using it and continue to learn few things everytime I am running into a new work!)
  7. Hi, Long time I did not post. Here is the Soul Nebula from last week Taken with my WOGT81 on avalon M-uno. 17*10 min each S, Ha and OIII Enjoy
  8. interesting. the sun was orange like on the picture this morning up here in south sweden too (abnormal temperature for the season.. 16-17C). Never seen like this before.
  9. Hi, I had proper conditions tonight and happy to report the issue is definitively much better. Below are luminance at bin 1 (right) and bin 2 (left) for resp. 5 and 10 min after adjustment. Clearly no problem for bin 1 while for bin 2 I would say there is still a slight higher intensity on the right, but surely no more bleeding out of the star of 1-2 pixels as I have had so far I have then taken shots of a previous targets and by analysis from pixinsight, I got lower FHMW, lower excentricity, to levels I have never reached so far . So to my satisfaction So thanks Steve and Terry from SX!
  10. Hi again I did adjustment according to instruction, and i had a little window to test yesterday evening (unfortunately high clouds and humidity). i tested on vega with my C8 and focal reducer, at different binning an short time. it looked all perfect, i then run on smaller stars and longer time to saturation and it also looked perfect (and no black bite). I did not use my dew heater to avoid any heat current defects, and the corrector plate quickly turn totally wet and more clouds came. So it looks the issue is adressed but i will need more good nights to confirm. I am only concerned the sensitivity or other performance is changed (in my test i tried one of my latest target and it looked like sensitivity went down but due to high clouds and humidity, of course the snr i got was far to be great, that was not conditions for imaging. those conditions were certainly the reason. Steve would you know if this setting change on voltage of the antiblooming have any other negative influence? Once i will have proper conditions, i will report again thks again David
  11. Steven, what do you mean as "a black bite will be taken out of the stars" if djusted too far the other way?
  12. Hi, I did contacted Terry from SX and based on the input given, indeed he strongly suspect the antiblooming filter and a voltage issue leading to overflow to adjacent cells typical to the Sony sensor used (sounds then also confirming what I see: effect is strongest when I do not have any filter, a bit less with RGB and basically almost none in narrow band as saturated pixel are much less in NB). I am not an electronic and sensor expert (but engineer physics background), it all make sense to me. He gave instructions how to fix it which seems simple to adjust and I will give it a try (as it involves my own risk of opening the camera, I do not want to give the instructions, if someone feel to have the same problem, then just contact SX to get instructions) I will report after testing, I guess it will take a while, no clear skies forecasted ;-) Thanks Steve for the tip! And as always great support from SX. I love my SX694, a great camera I can only recommend (even if I have this issue, I do not complain) regards David
  13. thanks Steve, it sounds like you know the issue, I will then check with Terry at SX, always great support (I love my SX, great camera no doubt!)
  14. and checking another set of data with the WO and an even clearer case this time (here again imaged in RGB -while I typically image in NB with my WO and hardly see such effect in NR, I guess the NR take away so much on the soft side, giving non noticeable defects (does that make sense??) . As always, once I processed my images, it is hardly shown on final processed image (apart of course if you go down to look at the pixel size as I show here). So I can live with it (but in any case it could still be good I am sure it comes from the camera or it comes from scope or something else)
  15. To add to the previous post, see below the case of 1*1 bin using the WO81: more intensity on the right than the left. I am quite picky I know, this is very small difference on a raw non processed image (and in this case, I choose I would say a "worst case" -on a large stars, it is really hard to see this slight higher intensity on right than left-, not like in my original post and case for the C8 example which I would say is typical and always easy to see-
  16. 1*1 is also giving this problem (just more detailed of course), but I typically use 2*2 when imaging with the C8, no need to get down to that image scale/using 1*1 I am now checking further other shots and I would say it seems also I have this with my WO81 (1*1), but much much less pronounced than with the C8. Also it is the strongest with the C8 without FR (comparing so 2000 vs approx. 1300 vs the WO81 at 380 with FR). Also I notice this defect is stronger when I image in RGB (but it is not coming from the filter, as without any filter the problem is there) than in narrow band (and I image mostly narrow band, hence I am not bothering much)
  17. Hi, I cannot see how collimation come into play, as I mention turning the camera 90 degree, still give the defect in same way on the picture (higher intensity of the star on the right, softer on the left of the star, what soever I rotate the camera). If it was a collimation issue, shouldnt then the position of the defect change on the picture itself as when I rotate the camera ? (rotating the camera 180, shall then turn the high intensity on the left and the soft on the right side?)
  18. Hi, I have a little star shape defect in my images which starts bothering me: See below, an example of a very bright star, from a 10 min raw image (non processed) and they all appear the same where ever their position (center, corners etc..): all stars are pretty well round, but the light intensity seems always more on the right side and softer on the left side. It is taken through a C8 and SX694 camera, bin 2 I have done multiple checks and I am pretty sure, this is not related to - guiding (a very short exposure of 1 s or much longer one does not matter, there is always exactly the same defect and my guiding is very good with my Avalon m-uno <0,6 rms arcsec typically, so well below my image scale), nor flexure -I use OAG- . No condition related (0m/s wind, good atmospheric condition, the problem is there) - collimation is pint point (checked in many different ways, on the basic of diffraction rings they are very fine -visually like through imaging) - My polar alignment is very good (below sub arc, it is permanent set up based on very long drift alignment procedure) - nothing in the imaging train (FR or filters or not does not make any difference, the defect is always there) - to the camera itself: if I rotate the camera by 90 degrees, this defect is always towards the right of the picture -> would this be specific camera? (but a bit strange as I have another telescope and I do not see this issue -a WO GT81 refractor but maybe I do not see if as totally different focal length and scope?). There is a possible adjustment on SX camera to tilt the sensor, but for what I read, it would affect more about the focus plane, and in my case, the focus seems the same wherever on the picture, so I am not sure this could solve the issue (I have not tried to play with that) Any ideas what could be the problem? Now I can say it is not the end of the day, as when I fully process the picture, the defect is hardly if not at all seen on the final results . As example, the star I picked as example above is the main center star of 1* 10 min sub which give the following results once processed http://www.astrobin.com/263197 Thanks for your input
  19. Hi, After being tired to move my Avalon m-uno/tripod, I finally decided to make my pier. I went for a brick pier, inspired by Rogerthedodger I could use directly the Avalon plate used on the tripod top (the Avalon is well designed), so no need of any special plates, and fixed it with 6 studs (going inside the top bricks, not only inside the top concrete part). The bricks have holes, and luckily fitting perfectly the 6 studs so it could go inside. It accommodates also to have 4 bars in the brick corners all the way from top to down, inside the base. So it shall be really solid, not only in compression but in all direction. The base is 60*60*40. We will see how it goes. Could not be cheaper for me, only 4 bags of cement/mortar + the studs/bars (I already had bricks and the base). David
  20. Hi, just want to share my experience with Starizona Corrector II on my C8 SCT (with SX694). Really nice round stars on the edges, much better than the standard Celestron focal reducer. Compare left (starizona corrector ) and right (celestron corector)
  21. hi you may consider the avalon m-zero as a 'very' portable option if pay load is enough for you (and i think a number of users have reported much higher payload than avalon mention). i have a m-uno, not the m-zero, and i cannot be more pleased. it is not a permanent set up and when exposed to slight breeze, the guiding trace can look a bit jumpy but the image always great (on 10 min exposures for hours, i typically get 0.5 to 0.8 arc sec rms, fhwm of 3,5 to 4 and according to pixinsight, image eccentricity of anywhere 0.40 to 0.48 which makes me more than happy. it is handling well my c8 or my wogt81 (need extension to get balanced with wogt81 -but no need to reposition the arms when switching scope-). i let it run over night and i sleep well: no worry in the morning to get all my subs ok -and no meridian flip to think of-(i only got 1 sub to discard due to a sudden and unexplained big dec jump over maybe about 50 hours using it so far). -no meridian flip, -no backlash, -no maintenace , - less cable management issues which is important for a non permanet set up -for getting all set up quickly and also to let it run (i run it through bluetooth from my portable computer, and never with handset -it is still in its box-: only 1 power cable to the mount, 1 usb computer to my sx694/filter wheel/lodestar -all through the usb hub of the sx-+ 1 power to the camera and 1 for dew heater, really simple! all above made me choising it (i am fine with guiding -oag, the little time to set this up does not bother me, i feel no need of a unguided long exposure type of high class mount with my light scopes). works great with ascom. My only regret in a way is not to have taken a m-zero: the m-uno is still quite big and only moving mount on tripod (no scope) over a few meter from inhouse to the garden is just ok for me. i only heard good things of the m-zero. Looking ahead, i am thinking setting permanently the m-uno... and going for m-zero as portable one...
  22. by my little 8 years old kid big bang in grey top left milkyway in blue top right sun in yellow. let s call it a colorful start in sketching.
  23. Hi! long time i have not posted. jelly fish, bicolor. 10*600 sec each Ha and Oiii. wogt81, 0.8 fr, sx694, avalon m-uno. processed in pixinsight.
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