bomberbaz

3 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

I also started with the 1.25" filter inside the 11mm spacer but I now use the ZWO Filter Drawer which replaces the 21mm spacer and this allows me to use 2" filters. It also means I can change from the UV/IR cut filter to my Askar Duo-Band without removing the camera from the scope. 

The Filter Drawer is placed in front of the 11mm spacer on the front of the camera, so the filter is the last thing the light passes through before it hits the sensor. 

How do you find the askar duo Martin?

I was looking at it the other day and put it on my maybe wish list.  Once I have my new camera I intend using an existing astronomik UHC filter to see how that gets along. If things go well it might end up on my birthday list 😄

Still waiting my new camera Lee but will be putting my version (optolong L2)  into a T2-1.25 adaptor and slapping it right in front of the sensor.  

My thoughts being I will be able to unthread camera from OTA, remove the L2 filter and put in a narrowband filter before reattaching to OTA without losing focus or only minimal adjustment needed. 

Still learning so much but really feeling the astronomy bug again after losing my way a while back. 

Steve

On 19/04/2022 at 00:12, Budgie1 said:

Both the ASI183MC Pro and ASI294MC Pro only have AR coated window. If you're not using any type LP filter then a UV/IR cut filter should help reduce star bloating, if you're seeing this in your images.

Although the UV/IP cut filters are cheaper than other types of filter, you still get what you pay for, so I wouldn't go for the cheapest version. Something mid range from a good filter brand should do the job.  

Thanks martin, think I am going for the astronomik L2, seems to be a good filter and well priced. 

Thanks @vlaiv for the information.  I actually noticed at the bottom of the page for the astronomik uhc it is suitable when using a suitable IR/UV filter so for now I think I will try out the UHC filter before deciding whether to move to a dedicated filter such as the askar.

As for the UV/IR filter, I will also leave broadband filters for now and I shall have a look at other types such as the optolong, hutech etc and maybe spend a little more getting something better than a basic one. I am using an F4.8 doublet so it should be beneficial for only a relatively modest extra spend. 

Thanks

Steve

Well two really, both surrounding filters.

Firstly and about my most recent post regarding IR/UV cut filters. I want to stick one permanently light path and I have read mention of both ZWO basic filter as a decent option but also this one here from Astronomik. Astronomik L-2 UV+IR Blocking Luminance Filter | First Light Optics

I am in a light polluted place but as I am using a colour camera I wanted to avoid broadband filters such as the optolong L-pro as that will take away the colour or am I wrong here?

Assuming I am right about avoiding broadband and bearing in mind that ZWO and Astronomic are both good makes, what is it that astronomik are giving that warrants double the price of the ZWO?

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Second question:

I am also going to start putting some narrowband subs into my work to hopefully improve on results and looked at a few makes and will use this Askar one as an example https://www.firstlightoptics.com/narrowband/askar-duo-band-narrowband-filter.html

However would not an astronomik visual UHC also provide a similar result to the askar as according to the diagram, they cover the same bandwidths Astronomik UHC Filter | First Light Optics. I ask because I already own one.

Thanks for any help in this one

steve

Hello all.

I have one of these cameras on order ZWO ASI 183MC-PRO USB 3.0 Cooled Colour Camera | First Light Optics and I seem to remember reading somewhere that the sensor seal element (glass or plastic) was also a IR/UV cut filter although I cannot remember which model this was referring too.

 However I have done a lot of reading and cannot find anything to back this up. All the specs refer to is "AR coated protective window - all light can pass"  Will I also need a filter or is it built in.

I think this has turned into an obvious question now thinking about it but I have typed it anyway so yes or no please peeps?

Steve

1 hour ago, Paul Bulbeck said:

Again thanks for replying,  I uninstalled the app but then installed pro and connected in a spit second! Thanks for your time gents.

and Lady's where applicable 😉

Last night I had 2 of my grandchildren staying over and so decided to set up the ED100 so the older one could see the moon (he is only 8 year old) and he was suitably impressed with his 20 second glance, asked a few questions and to be fair did ok playing with the zoom which was inserted into the diagonal.  The intention after this little indoctrination was to do some double stars due to the near full moon washing everything else out but my next door neighbours, (both two houses down) had enough drain on the national grid to light half of lancashire with all the external light going on.

Fence lighting, flood lights, conservatory light cascades, you get the picture. So any chance of star hopping which was already diminished by the moon, were totally extinguished by the Burnley illuminations.

From now on the only reason to get a scope out and mount it up with be planetary or lunar or if Betelgeuse goes boom 😄

I am relatively new to imaging and only decided to go for it as I had already the AZ GTi and a 224mc as a guide camera when I caught onto this thread.

However a mate showed me the ease of use of the ASI AIR+ which finally made me go for it. I can vouch for the AA+ versatility, it was built for novices and experts alike and I am definately the former.

I have also returned my 183mc camera and purchased the pro version, I will put up new pictures once I have the new setup all put together. 

I'm not getting my collection out, will take too long to put them back and my OCD will be trying to make me put them back in  a more organised way, lol  🤣

5 hours ago, cajen2 said:

Yes, I'd be interested in the results of such a test, @bomberbaz. What holds true for a 20mm 2" EP might be quite different from a 6 or 9mm 1.25".

If @FLO wants to send me one for testing again, I'd be happy to give it a go.

Yes I am aware of the discrepancy between different focal length eyepieces over the same range. I remember years back owning the celestron xcel range and the 25mm I think was by far the best of the range.

My reason for offering to give the 9mm a whirl is I have a good selection of other decent glass at or around that size.

The 6mm would be a great eyepiece for extra high powered viewing of such things as quasars, super tight doubles, planetary nebs etc. My dob has DSC fitted which is incredibly accurate and makes using really high power so very much easier which is why I was thinking it a possible worthwhile acquisition. 

Interesting thread this and I could be interested in a 6mm 80 degree one. Would have been useful the other week when hunting quasars.

However if @FLO still has capacity for more EP testing, the 9mm would be a good option for my dob.

I have a Nikon Nav HW 12.5 - 10mm and a TV Delos 8mm which would give a favourable comparison. Nikon x 170, Stella x189 & TV x213. I could also use the hyperflex 9-27 zoom to see what budget priced glass gives.

Ok so simple question. I have a ASIAIR plus, 183mc pro, 224mc, AZ GTi mount that I need to power.

According to the specs the cameras both need around 0.3a each (at 5V), cooling 3a, AZGti 0.75a and the AAPlus is indeterminate but given the the four known requirements then running the whole setup from one power source would be pushing it.

I have a celestron powertank lithium pro which is what I want to use out in the field. It has two power output points, one 5.5 tip positive port and one cigar lighter type socket. 

Can anyone see a problem powering up the AAPlus, both cameras & mount  with the power tank 5.5 port and then running the cooling from the additional cigar power socket on the AAPlus.

TIA all

Steve

Ok so did a plate solve after polar alignment and also I ticked the goto auto centre on mount settings.

Which ever of these it was that was causing a problem doing both fixed it.

I did a quick image of the Iris nebula last night and although it lacks detail and is still a little grainy, I am quite chuffed with the results from this one.

heads up on this. Now using a celestron powertank lithium pro. From the socket it claims 12v / 10a so should be smashing it. 

I am still getting a drop in voltage when using the whole setup. Power draw according to the air+ is 2.7a and Voltage now at 10.7.

Can any of you ZWO ASI Air plus users with cooling who are using the Air+ look at what their own voltage runs at when cameras, cooling, dew tapes etc are all switched on please.

cheers

steve

8 hours ago, AstroNebulee said:

Yep as scotty said do your plate solve when you've goto'd a target 

I use my asiair pro and my routine is, PA, then send mount to home position, then goto focus on bright star I plate plate solve this too, then goto imaging target then plate solve it, take a quick exposure to check its centred, then calibration in guiding then guide and set autorun going. 

Funnily enough I havent set my mount setting to auto centre (see screenshot) has no issues maybe it's the pro version thing I don't know 🤔

Rightly or wrong it's my workflow. 

goto auto centre helps too, I must have unticked that

2 hours ago, scotty38 said:

Is that after plate solving?

Ah i didnt do that, simply polar aligned then went straighht to imaging, could be theissue. 

Not sure about mount goto settings to centre. I shall check both if conditions allow tonight. 

Thanks

In this case last night I set the target as M65, it landed on it but as you can see from the attaching picture which is rough processed to help show detail it is stuck in the top right along with the rest of the triplet

Should I manually align the last bit or is there something wrong with my set up.

It has only just started doing this btw

steve

I decided to stick with a provider I know andd trust, FLO in this instance and got one of these

Celestron Lithium 13.2 Ah LiFePO4 Powertank Pro | First Light Optics

According to some research I found which was a comparison between lead and L-ion batteries these seem to pump out a steady 12v all the way down to circa 80% drain, plus are good for a quoted 2000 charges. If the latter is the case it will probably outlast me.  

I have found this after doing some looking around, wondered if anyone has unthoughts on it. The specs are quite impressive!

350W Portable Power Station, Enginstar 296Wh Solar Generator with Wireless Charger,Backup Lithium Battery Pack Power Supply for Outdoors Camping Travel CPAP Machine Emergency : Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Hello all.

I am having a variation in my voltage which I am not sure if it sho9uld be a concern or not.

First my rig. It is an AZ GTi in EQ mode, a ZWO ASIAir plus, a ZWO 183 mc main and ZWO 224mc guide. The whole lot is powered by the battery from a SW 17ah powerbank.

To the ZWO 183 I have attached an homemade peltier cooling mod which draws 27W. (2.2a)

When the rig is powered up without the cooling mod, power draw is stated at 0.4a - 5.5w - 12.3v

When I switch on the cooling mod this goes to 2.6a - 27w - 10.4v

Two queries regarding this. First the reduced voltage, will this cause any harm to the parts as described above?

Will it shorten the battery run time and cause things to start to go awry.

Am I better considering other methods of powering my imaging rig.

23 hours ago, skyhog said:

Definitely worth doing if you haven't experienced a truly dark sky before. Its hard to convey the beauty of a clear night under the darkest skies possible. And that's the issue here. There's a world of difference between a dark site and the darkest site its possible to have. I think I would have to camp or stay somewhere though. The prospect of driving home after a long observing session would spoil the experience for me. 

This certainly does come into play with myself. I recently shy'd away from going to my lake district site (B2) and opted instead for the B4 site much nearer to home.

The forecast was slightly ambiguous and with a total 2 hours extra driving for the B2 site I decided for the closer one incase the skies were not playing ball.

Noticed some modding going on. I have made a cooling mod which I have previously mentioned and posted pictures up. It is a well known mod using a peltier cooling chip and computer cooling fan.

Now I have finally finished the install I have two dark pictures taken showing with and without cooling (see below). 

I know some really try to push the cooling by using higher power peltier chips, however there is evidence that when doing this you can cause condensation to form on the camera chip so I deliberately went for a lower powered chip with the aim of simply giving a decent cool.

The pro series of ZWO have a very small heater at the chip to prevent dew formation apparently, mine does not.

Anyway I have found that I am getting around 15-17F (10C) cooling from the ambient temperature. The difference in noise and amp glow is clear to see.

Steve 

A very good point there @Stu.  While my post above is obviously referring to deep sky viewing of faint DSO's, a non dark sky still allows alternative viewing options as you quite rightly stated.

I did mention my almost dark site with the half hour travel at sqm 19.5, it does for brighter dso only such as M82,81, the ring and other planetary nebula and such like.

However I have also learned a lesson from my recent trip to not ignore brighter dso (M51 in this instance) at dark sky sites in favour of hunting for faint fuzzies. 

The views of these brighter DSO can be so much more detailed in the black skies that it pays handsomely to spend some time on these if your session allows for it. 

As you rightly state it is all about balance.

Steve

4 hours ago, Dave scutt said:

I'm glad I don't have to travel with the price of petrol these days. 

My garden is fine at SQM at 21.8

You sir are in the lucky 0.01% of the population who live in such areas, 21.8 is in the, "there is nothing you cannot see from this region of the planet" group and you are very lucky.

BTW I am not one bit jealous, honest!