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Posts posted by bottletopburly
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Same version , update got it to work
edited the phrase for large dark nebula
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Certainly! Here is a list of large dark nebulae that meet your criteria for viewing from the 52nd parallel between May and September. These objects are visible after dark, above 45 degrees from the horizon, and their approximate directions in the night sky are included.
Large Dark Nebulae
1. Barnard 142 and 143 (The E Nebula)
• Constellation: Aquila
• Approximate Direction: South to Southwest
• Best Time to View: July to September
• Description: These are two prominent dark nebulae that form an ‘E’ shape against the Milky Way’s starry background.
2. Barnard 86 (The Ink Spot)
• Constellation: Sagittarius
• Approximate Direction: South to Southwest
• Best Time to View: June to August
• Description: A small, dense dark nebula located near the open star cluster NGC 6520.
3. Barnard 168
• Constellation: Cygnus
• Approximate Direction: East to Southeast
• Best Time to View: July to September
• Description: A long, snake-like dark nebula located near the North America Nebula and Pelican Nebula in Cygnus.
4. The Great Rift
• Constellation: Cygnus to Sagittarius
• Approximate Direction: East to South
• Best Time to View: May to September
• Description: A series of dark dust clouds that divide the bright band of the Milky Way lengthwise, stretching from the constellation Cygnus down through Aquila and into Sagittarius.Viewing Tips
• Aquila: Look towards the southern part of the sky in the evening.
• Cygnus: Look towards the eastern part of the sky in the evening, moving towards the southeast as the night progresses.
• Sagittarius: Visible in the southern sky, best viewed in early to mid-summer months.These dark nebulae can be challenging to observe due to their nature; they block the light of stars behind them, appearing as dark patches against the brighter background of the Milky Way. A dark sky location away from city lights is ideal for viewing these objects. Using a star chart or an astronomy app will help you locate these dark nebulae more precisely.
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Which version of chat gpt are you using Stuart I couldn’t get it to work with your question
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3 hours ago, Vroobel said:
I used a string with a small load hanging in the middle of a central hole of a spider (with the secondary mirror unscrewed) to find whether the spider was placed perfectly over the ring mark
Assuming the ring is centred on the primary perfectly centred , my 200pds was 6mm out .
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After watching cuiv latest video on Graxpert i picked up on a comment for using Graxpert to create a SHO image from Osc , the chap created a short video , if you read comments on cuiv video of revisiting Topaz denoise V Graxpert you can read the comments , not tried it yet but seemed worth a share .
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Tested camera last night for 3 hrs imaging ambient temperature reported by the Eaf internally was 12C and ccd sensor temperature was 3c .
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Thanks ivo and Maria for your time and effort you put in greatly appreciated 👍🥳
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A fine image John , well taken 👍
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Stunning image olly great work 👍
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I’d mirror others comments, to start off do the simple tweaks that cost minimal outlay , Flocking ota , blacken inside of draw tube, blacken edge of secondary, check centre spot on primary, mine was out 6mm , apeture mask to primary to stop reflections, upgraded springs to primary, shower cap to end of ota , 6mm bar across ota rings on to stiffen tube , then if the bug bites cnc spider off Aliexpress (£60), Steeltrack focuser ,
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Does anyone know what the torque rating is on a zwo EAF 5v version ?
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In Eqmod you can clear all sync points , manually reset scope to park position and your all good to go , are you imaging or visual observing ? I’m assuming your using Eqmod .
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On a stock 200p the 1.25 “ adapter unscrews from the base part , you can then screw into your T adapter and that’s all you need to achieve focus
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24 minutes ago, tomato said:
It helps the cooling efficiency if you use thermally conductive cement to attach the cooler but it doesn’t come off easily and could invalidate your camera warranty if it had to be returned. That said, your 3M sticky pad might be optimised for the cooler application.
The 3M tape does seem to be very good and seems rock solid .
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1 hour ago, Elp said:
That's a nice all in one unit, I had to get the parts separately.
Some people also got good results with a Black Shark phone cooler.
I'm finding the time to actually use kit is getting longer and longer between sessions.
Yes I was looking at the the camera coolers when I spotted the peltier cooler , it must be 4 months since I’ve been out .
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1 hour ago, Elp said:
Decent result. I tried similar with my 224 months ago but didn't feel like progressing with it much, mainly due to I image with uncooled cameras already for DSO and have been doing so for years, the need for cooling isn't really required as it's quite cold outside most of the time anyway. The other issue is if the sensor doesn't have direct conducting contact with the camera body cooling effect can also be minimal but you've seen a decent result.
How did you mount the peltier, did you just stick it on the back under the heatsink?
The cooler came with a very thin 3M sticky pad and it seems solid , bit like he pad that holds a rear mirror on a car windscreen , the 585 does give a clean image uncooled so if it cools the camera a bit then that will help and for minimal outlay , hopefully I can test in the next few weeks rather than in a warm living room .
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1 hour ago, Stuart1971 said:
Link..?
sorry
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0C78WVRDP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title- 1
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I picked up a small peltier cooler off of Amazon just to see if it made a difference to the 585mc uncooled camera £17 so not a big loss if it doesn’t, initial testing in the house gave a reading of approximately 10degrees below ambient temp , initially the sensor was reading 28 degrees after ten minutes using 120sec exposures temperature was reading 18 degrees , hopefully in a few months the clouds may part to test 🤦♂️ cooler runs off 5v 2A usb power and very quite .
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I fitted a Steeltrack to my 200pds and holes didn’t match , make a paper card template I wish I had , and measure what the focuser center is before dismantling , I just used the elongated holes , I got light leakage on the base which I plugged using black foam , excellent focuser though .
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You could try asking https://www.astroprinter.co.uk/home formerly Jack the printer .
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Cheers ivo , marks channel is going great, kudos to him 👍
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Here’s my take on reflectors buying a reflector will require collimation at some point so if your thinking of buying a reflector and collimating scares you buy a refractor, if you do buy a reflector at the point of having to collimate don’t worry dive in and make a pigs ear of it you’ll get your head around it eventually and there is plenty of peeps on forums to help , YouTube videos etc ,yes it can be frustrating but believe me once you get your head around how a reflector works it does become easier , for me two things that I have upgraded to make my life easier but Not necessary was cnc spider off of Aliexpress for my 200pds no need to fret and centralise spider and Steeltrack focuser (but only because I’m imaging) and I picked up an Ocal electronic collimator which I personally found very effective for checking the focuser was aligned to the OTA which having the Steeltrack you can align the drawtube easier than the stock focuser on a 200pds but a Cheshire collimator and a colli cap are the very basics you need until collimating OCD takes over 🤣
DAVE
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Stunning olly just stunning 🤩, well done 👏
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Chat GP can be very useful…
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
Certainly is 👍