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Posts posted by Steve Ward
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Guessing this is a very recent pic and given the brightness it must be Venus.
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1 hour ago, Elp said:
and the canon ra can record 4k video at 30fps and 1080 at 60 FPS.
But only as a stream of jpegs in .mov format from the livescreen feed , not full resolution RAW files ... big difference.
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7 minutes ago, Elp said:
Why not just record it as video? You'll be capturing at 25/30fps or more if your camera does high FPS video.
The video resolution is very poor compared to full size RAW images.
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For that short a length of totality I'd be keeping it simple and use the DSLR and a usb cable into the laptop and use Canon's EOS Utility for capture , or even just ditch the computer and use a simpler still remote shutter release cable , too little time to be faffing about with anything that can go awry , the Sun and Moon won't be pausing for you to sort a software glitch ... 😉
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At night then Go-To , for my Solar stuff obviously not ...
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1 hour ago, tezz said:
Thank you.
Doing what you said would cost to much money as I would have to hire someone.
Alternatively you can just cut diagonal bracing into the framework , easy to do yourself without hiring anyone in .
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Line the walls with ply/osb or similar.
All looks fine and dandy now on delivery as everything's tight and freshly made/treated , but when it gets to summertime and everything's dried out and shrunk somewhat the sturdy looking shed will become a different and unstable wobbly thing that will have you frustrated/annoyed.
This is coming from someone with nigh-on 40 years experience of designing and building sectional wooden buildings not just some random thought by the way.
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It's high time you let that poor old battered Corondo 90 go to a good home cheap , it's been dragged up and down the country for years now from show to show so deserves a gentle , happy retirement here in deepest Suffolk where I'll give it all the love it deserves ... 😉
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7 hours ago, MKHACHFE said:
Very nice. Any details on what you used to take them?
Cheers
Canon 550D , Tal 100rs + 1.8x Barlow , Baader ND3.8 film +Oiii filter.
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14 minutes ago, Mandy D said:
If the filter thread size is 58 mm, then a 60 mm filter is unlikely to fit. It has to go over the body of the lens, which will be significantly larger than the filter thread dimension. Measure it with a ruler or calipers and then add at least 6mm for clearance. Make sure the filter is secured properly before pointing it at the Sun, even if imaging only. You don't want to destroy your sensor.
The shop in the link I posted has 58mm filters that just screw direct to the front of the lens just like any other photographic filter ... 😉
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Have just got the 95mm one for my Sigma 150-600 and it's fine and dandy ... 😉
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Both are 'collimatable' ...
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14 minutes ago, LDW1 said:
I have a 2" Altair Astro wedge but the Vixen A62SS is only 1.25" and I don't want to spend $400 C on just that one scope, the Baader filter is a lot cheaper.
Why bother with the 62mm scope at all if you have larger refractors to play with ?
Stick with a 100mm-120mm unless you have better than average seeing generally when you can push it to 150mm , dropping to 62mm will negate any improvement a wedge might offer by virtue of the smaller aperture.
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Thousand Oaks and Seymour polymer films are fit for little other than eclipse glasses , poor quality when detail is sought.
Baader film is marginally trumed by wedges but the difference is not as great as the price differential would suggest.
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Just pay close attention to which tip you employ from a PSU that comes with multiple tips , correct polarity is ESSENTIAL to prevent blowing the board.
Double check with a multimeter before use and then tape the tip securely in place to prevent expensive slip-ups .
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People still getting PA and Go-To interlaced and confused it appears , making it all way more complicated than it need be.
Step One ... Read and reread the instructions that come with the mount ... an oft overlooked step due to the usual bravado.
An accurate input by the user of the required data ... Location , date and especially time is needed , the more accurate the data the more accurate the initial pointing , rough guessing and especially endless faffing about means everything will have apparently moved from where the mount thinks it is.
Step Two ... reread the instructions.
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6 hours ago, Tomatobro said:
Do you know what issue the plans were published? I have quite a collection of back issues that might help
March 2016....will have a look through my collection in the morning
This How to originally appeared in the August 2012 issue of BBC Sky at Night Magazine.
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6 hours ago, Dark Adaptation said:
So I've been curious about what camera would be good for astrophotography, and whether a really expensive DSLR would be strictly necessary.
You can pick up good 'Used' or 'S/H' DSLRs for not a lot of money from various sources like "WEX Photographic" , "MPB Cameras" or "Park Cameras" ... 😉
https://www.parkcameras.com/used/cameras/canon?pi=1&psc=ProductPriceMatrix.VatInclusivePrice
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1 hour ago, niallk said:
Could see this scope design being unmercifully ripped to shreds over on CN 😂😂
Lack of provision for rear cooling, that focusser (yuk!), secondary collimation, looks like vibration suppression would be a nightmare, no provision for a shroud for body heat elimination from light path, etc... It would want to come with a Zambuto 🤣
Give me a SW 250px anyday!
The thread's abut pretty not practical and boring ... 😉
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how many millimeters is this thread?
in Discussions - Mounts
Posted
I think you'll find that 10 is also divisible by 2 , least ways it was when I was learning my 'times tables' at Primary School in 1966 aged 4-1/2 ...