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Steve Ward

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Posts posted by Steve Ward

  1. On 05/05/2023 at 14:41, Louis D said:

    Why was 10 chosen as the base?  Base 12 makes a lot more sense.  It's divisible by 1,2,3,4,6, and 12.  10 is only divisible by 1,5, and 10.  Being a computer engineer, I've grown quite adept at base 16 or hexadecimal arithmetic, so it should be doable to work in base 12.

    I do often prefer the use of customary units' fractions to decimals for day to day functions as opposed to engineering usage for taking a swag at a measurement.

    I think you'll find that 10 is also divisible by 2 , least ways it was when I was learning my 'times tables' at Primary School in 1966 aged 4-1/2 ... :happy7:

    • Like 1
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  2. Line the walls with ply/osb or similar.

    All looks fine and dandy now on delivery as everything's tight and freshly made/treated , but when it gets to summertime and everything's dried out and shrunk somewhat the sturdy looking shed will become a different and unstable wobbly thing that will have you frustrated/annoyed.

    This is coming from someone with nigh-on 40 years experience of designing and building sectional wooden buildings not just some random thought by the way.

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  3. 14 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

    If the filter thread size is 58 mm, then a 60 mm filter is unlikely to fit. It has to go over the body of the lens, which will be significantly larger than the filter thread dimension. Measure it with a ruler or calipers and then add at least 6mm for clearance. Make sure the filter is secured properly before pointing it at the Sun, even if imaging only. You don't want to destroy your sensor.

    The shop in the link I posted has 58mm filters that just screw direct to the front of the lens just like any other photographic filter ... 😉

  4. 14 minutes ago, LDW1 said:

    I have a 2" Altair Astro wedge but the Vixen A62SS is only 1.25" and I don't want to spend $400 C on just that one scope, the Baader filter is a lot cheaper.

    Why bother with the 62mm scope at all if you have larger refractors to play with ?

    Stick with a 100mm-120mm unless you have better than average seeing generally when you can push it to 150mm , dropping to 62mm will negate any improvement a wedge might offer by virtue of the smaller aperture.

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  5. Thousand Oaks and Seymour polymer films are fit for little other than eclipse glasses , poor quality when detail is sought.

    Baader film is marginally trumed by wedges but the difference is not as great as the price differential would suggest.

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  6. People still getting PA and Go-To interlaced and confused it appears , making it all way more complicated than it need be.

    Step One ... Read and reread the instructions that come with the mount ... an oft overlooked step due to the usual bravado.

    An accurate input  by the user of the required data ... Location , date and especially time is needed , the more accurate the data the more accurate the initial pointing , rough guessing and especially endless faffing about means everything will have apparently moved from where the mount thinks it is.

    Step Two ... reread the instructions.

     

    • Like 1
  7. 6 hours ago, Tomatobro said:

    Do you know what issue the plans were published? I have quite a collection of back issues that might help

     

    March 2016....will have a look through my collection in the morning

    This How to originally appeared in the August 2012 issue of BBC Sky at Night Magazine.

  8. 1 hour ago, niallk said:

    Could see this scope design being unmercifully ripped to shreds over on CN 😂😂

    Lack of provision for rear cooling, that focusser (yuk!), secondary collimation, looks like vibration suppression would be a nightmare, no provision for a shroud for body heat elimination from light path, etc... It would want to come with a Zambuto 🤣

    Give me a SW 250px anyday!

     

    The thread's abut pretty not practical and boring  ... 😉

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