yelsac

1 hour ago, neil phillips said:

Both images are now the same

Neil

As I've said before absolutely love your images....

So with these two images is the smaller one the original taken from the pipp 640x480 video? When you increase the size from the original do you always 1.5 drizzle in AutoStakket or do you ever resize the image in PS or Image Analyser?

Also I've never used the winjupos for derotation is it easy to use? Normally I only take 3min max avi's of Jupiter so how long a video can you take using winjupos?

Sorry so many questions, learning all the time! 🤔

2 hours ago, vlaiv said:

Main way to get good images is to understand how planetary imaging works.

Pixel size is not important at all.

You can get the same size image as those that you've seen from Neil if you use barlow and some tricks in processing (like increasing size with drizzle factor) - but those result in empty resolution.

Some people simply choose to make larger image as it is easier for them to process or look at - but reality is, telescope can't resolve image at that scale (or rather - every telescope has limit of what it can resolve)

Let me show you by using one of the images @neil phillips produced:

And the same image that has been reduced x2 in size:

Now question is - can you see a feature in above image that you can't see in smaller image? Bottom image looks properly sharp, and top image just looks like scaled up version of bottom image without additional detail.

I'm just writing all of this to show that it is not the size of image that determines level of captured detail. It is aperture of the telescope that is limiting factor.

If you wish - you can certainly do as Neil does - and use barlow and drizzling to produce zoomed in version of the image. However that won't produce sharpness that is expected on that scale.

Back to planetary imaging - here are key tips:

- yes, get better camera with higher QE, faster frame rates and less read noise. That will help

- choose barlow to match pixel size (or larger if you want to get larger image, but in my view that hampers your results). For OSC / color imaging, best F/ratio for given pixel size is pixel size * 4 - so for 3.75um pixel size that is F/15, for 2.9um pixel size that is F/11.6 and so on.

- keep exposure length short, like 5ms. Don't use histogram to set exposure length so that image is "bright enough". Stacking will make sure you get image that can be made bright enough, individual frames don't need to be. Point of short exposure is to freeze the seeing so that you don't add more blur to your image.

- get plenty of frames - few tens of thousands. This is why fast camera helps. Use ROI to limit amount of data you record (640x480 is enough for planets). Use USB3.0 computer that is capable of recording that amount of data in real time (use SSD for storage).

- Optimize your imaging environment in the same way planetary observers optimize their. Let the scope be cooled down. Be patient and wait for periods of best seeing (check seeing forecast so you know what to expect, or learn to judge seeing by eye). Don't shoot over large bodies that accumulate heat over day and radiate heat during night - meaning paved roads, large bodies of water, houses that use heating during night. Wait for planet to be sufficiently high in the sky.

- When stacking select only few best percent of frames for stacking (use AS!3)

- rest is down to careful processing / wavelets / deconvolution / etc - that is simply something you practice

Wow thats really in depth.....

Lots for me to think about really appreciate your comments 👍

15 hours ago, Varavall said:

In the meantime take a look at this thread 

 

Wow that's really interesting, can't believe the quality difference between the two cameras & ring nebula & whirlpool galaxy amazing, thanks for that 😀

2 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

There are only few things that define good planetary camera:

- High QE

- low read noise

- ability to do fast frame rates

Other things are not really that important.

Only thing that concerns me with ASI462 is lower QE. It is designed to have high QE around 820nm and that means less QE in visible range

(green is around 85% of the max QE and max absolute QE is estimated to be around 80% so absolute QE in green is around 80% * 0.85 = 68% - that is not very high).

I'd recommend ASI462 (or QHY or some other version) to people that are interested in IR planetary (or IR guiding), but there are probably higher QE cameras in visible part of spectrum than that one.

Maybe ASI662 for example (peak QE in green around 91%)?

Or if blue QE is important, then maybe ASI678 (peak QE in blue around 83%)?

 

Hi Vlaiv

Thanks for the reply, I've been looking at what others are able to get with a similar setup to mine. I use a skywatcher 250p Reflector f4.7 for planetary with a QHY5L-iic & a 2.5 Barlow & wanted to get better quality images.

I've seen ones who use the QHY5III462C with a 245MM Orion f6.3 ( not quite the same scope but similar) who are able to get outstanding images & they seem to be a lot larger than what I get with my QHY5L-iic.

Just trying to understand if that's down to the smaller pixel size or maybe more FPS & better sensitivity. 

So really interested in anyone who has had both cameras & experienced the difference between them.

yelsac

1 hour ago, Varavall said:

Not yet. I am waiting for the planets to be at a good altitude at a reasonable hour (I like my sleep) so I progamme my setup for DSO's to work while I'm asleep. Now when the next Moon comes I will start with the planets anew.  So in a couple of weeks or so, I will have the answer. In the meantime it's a fantastic guide camera!

Brilliant I look forward to hearing how you get on & what you think about image size, clear skies 👍

On 08/09/2022 at 14:45, Varavall said:

Hi

A good upgrade would be to the QHY5III462C at around £219 with IR850nm and IR block filters or £249 with methane, IR pass and UV/IR block filters. At IR it acts virtually as a mono camera and makes an excellent guide camera and with the filter makes an excellent colour planetary camera. I love it purely for guiding, but soon will put it through it's paces when the planets are at the meridian at a reasonable hour.

I made the move QHY5-lI-C to the QHY5III462C.

Adrian

Hi Adrian 

Just wondered if you have had a go with the 462 on planetary? Just wondering what the difference in picture size would be with exactly the same setup from using your QHY5-lI-C.

Noticed the 462 Pixel Size is smaller at 2.9um x 2.9um whereas the other one is 3.75um x 3.75um. Not sure what difference that would equal in the size of the image.

5 minutes ago, neil phillips said:

Cheers maw lod qan

Yelsac its free software

Image Analyzer (meesoft.com)

Interesting, brilliant will have a look🙂

28 minutes ago, neil phillips said:

It can change from time to time especially registax. This was my registax setting. You will notice sharpening increased to 170. Trouble is without using frequency domain on image analyzer. The 1.5x drizzle i did can look noisy  after this i did some more sharpening. and a saturation lift. And adjusted levels. All on image analyzer. This was winjupos video derotation image

Wow so you only use one of the wavelets to sharpen & don't use the linked box... Not sure what you mean by the image analyzer?

1 hour ago, neil phillips said:

Hi Yelsac. I dont like recommending cameras tbh. The problem is. if someone doesn't get the results they were hoping for. It leaves me feeling party to that in some way. So, I will say study the images if that appeals then of course you know what's possible. There are also new cameras coming out 10 to the dozen. So again, I would say read a lot. And do your research before buying anything. Lots on youtube. and forums etc. with all manner of discussion. I like that camera. I will say that. But newer cameras are also appearing perhaps you should also consider. And read about. 

Sorry if i seem evasive. But the reasons are quite valid i think. And thanks for the comments appreciated. 

Hi Neil

No problem I completely understand.

Would really like to know have you got any processing tips? Not sure if you've ever posted any videos of how you process images etc, sorry I know its rather cheeky to ask.  Just really enjoy your images 

regards Yelsac

Hi Neil

Love the detail you get from Jupiter, I've got a 10" reflector & rarely get much detail , also find it difficult to not over process things.

I see your using the QHY 462c, would you recommend it? Again really love you images 👍

2 hours ago, Varavall said:

Hi

A good upgrade would be to the QHY5III462C at around £219 with IR850nm and IR block filters or £249 with methane, IR pass and UV/IR block filters. At IR it acts virtually as a mono camera and makes an excellent guide camera and with the filter makes an excellent colour planetary camera. I love it purely for guiding, but soon will put it through it's paces when the planets are at the meridian at a reasonable hour.

I made the move QHY5-lI-C to the QHY5III462C.

Adrian

Hi Adrian

Thanks for your reply, thats really interesting i was waiting for ZWO recommendations not QHY5. I will have a look into that one.

Have to be honest I was looking at ZWO ASI290MC & other ZWO models wasn't sure how they match up against QHY5. I see most seem to go towards ZWO.

Andrew 

Watched a video on how to use the linked wavelets on registax & it was a game changer so chuffed

setup as before- 250p, NEQ6, QHY5Liic, it was blown a bit x3

Finally got round to processing some jupiter vids from the 20th of August. Nice to get the GRS & one of the moons

setup- 250p, Rev 2.5 barlow, QHY5Liic.

Can never seem to get sharp images but hey-ho will keep trying. Recently found out I should be looking at the histogram while using sharpcap so will try that.

As above really, I've been using the qhy5liic for a while & have really enjoyed it but I'd like to get more detail & sharpness with the planets. Not wanting to get all the filters etc so really want a colour camera rather than a mono.

My setup- I use two different scopes for imaging 127 mak & 250p with 2.5 barlow & sometimes an extention if the seeing is really good (not often), all on a NEQ6.

Just wondered what would be a good upgrade & worth buying

On 11/08/2022 at 18:07, Zeta Reticulan said:

I have the WO's and normally use them with a 127mm Mak'.

I find 20mm SWAN's (not the bundled WO 20mm eyepieces) and a pair of 15mm GSO SuperViews get the most use.

Merging is a bit of an art form with the WO's and I find the wider the eyepiece FOV the easier it is to merge.

I also have the WO 1.6x and 2x Barlows. Plus a third (TS Optics) 2.6x Barlow. The shortest focal length eyepieces are a pair of 12mm GSO Plossls (with WO barrels) and a pair of SvBony 10mm aspherics.

Admittedly I really only use the bino's for lunar/planetary. In the past I've successfully used a pair of 25mm Ohi (Astro Hutech) orthoscopics and a pair of 32mm Baader BCO's. I also have used a pair of 19mm Panoptics but found them heavy for the set-up I was using.

Thanks for your reply.

Noticed in your sig you have a 6" Newt have you tried the binos with that?

Had a go last night with 5” Mak & was extremely impressed with the view of Jupiter, could see a lot more detail with both eyes than Cyclops.

You say you don't use the supplied WO 20mm eyepieces aren't they any good? To be honest that’s all I've been using to this point because they’re the only ones I've got two of.

Would you recommend the 10mm SvBonys? (I know they aren’t too expensive)  I presume you use them without the Barlow?

Might try & get some 15mm from somewhere as well.

all the best

Yelsac

Hi

Just recently acquired some William Optics binoviewers & was wondering if any use them with reflecter scopes & if so what eyepieces would you recommend?

I have a 6" & 10" skywatcher scopes on NEQ6. I can reach focus with the WO Binoviewer using the supplied 1.6 Barlow & a low profile 2" to 1.25" adapter. I've only used the 20mm eyepieces that came with it so far on the moon which was good. Have also tried them with 5" Mak which was ok but the magnification seemed a little much.

Any thoughts & advice would be great. Learning all the time....🤦‍♂️

Yelsac

Managed to get one pic in between the showers yesterday, seeing was dreadful, had one break in the clouds/showers legged it out with all the gear. Extremely overexposed to pick up Saturn but that was it before the clouds came again! Setup 250p with QHY5L-IIC on NEQ6.

Anyway happy to get a shot with them both in the same field of view, this country's weather absolutely stinks for astro events. Happy Days 😄

My friend you are a genius, worked like a treat.

Many thanks for your help

Hi

Got out the other night for the first time in ages. Managed to get some potentially good vids of Mars, however can't remember for the life of me how to use pipp correctly.

When I first load in my vid I get this-

Then I change the quality setting to reorder the frames in qualitiy order, next I go to processing tab to object detection & select center the object in each frame so I can use it in autostakke.

But no matter what settings I put it on I get this at the end

Dont know what I'm doing wrong but its really frustrating as I used to use this software all the time in the past. Any help would be great thanks.

Wooow that was quite a walk through, really interesting to see how the experts do it, lots of things to try there.

James I see from other posts you've moved over to firecapture, in your opinion is it better than sharpcap? mind you I'm only using the basic webcam (spc900)

would really like to get Saturn high up in the sky but alas we'll have to wait until 2032 or something!!!!!!