Gonzo

yes ASI2600MM-P as for the ASI294MM-Pro I also looked at this one but the "unlocked" feature it goes down to 12 bits and the full well isn't great, the larger pixel could also be a potential issue with the Redcat, maybe?

I've recently bought a Redcat 51 from Flo (awaiting delivery), this is to replace my Megrez 72 which I've sold to a friend (including pretty much the entire content of my remote observatory). Been looking at the ccd_suitability website and according to it, the ZWO183 series (I'm mono) is a "perfect" match due to the 2.4um pixel size of the camera and scope specs. My observatory is in a bortle 4 zone. Now I've read 100's of post on CN and SG about under~over sampling / redcat / pixel size etc... and I cannot make my mind up about which camera to take really. Not planning any upgrade after the Redcat so the camera must be a good match as I won't change that either. Having said all of that, from reading all these threads, apparently a small pixel camera will require excellent optics and excellent tracking (my new mount is a CEM25p). I'm ready to splash out the really hard earned cash on the ASI6200MM-P ASI2600MM-P if needed. It has 3.76um pixels 91% QE zero amp glow etc... I mean the specs are great. I also have the feeling that the moment I buy the ZWO183mm a new one will replace it and will have zero amp glow and other goodies... So, pixel size, I know they are important but 2.4 vs 3.76 for a Redcat 51, will it be a night & day difference? I'm open to suggestions please (also considering QHY too, it's slightly cheaper) {couldn't find the right sub forum so I picked this one, feel free to move the topic, I'm not starting in imaging ...}

Great picture, thanks for sharing.

Nice simple cable management there John.

That's what this hobby is about really, tinkering... 😂

Thanks Dave, if I get this scope I will dismantle it entirely before using it. Glad to hear you're getting ready to test it. Looking forward to your pictures.

Dave, I think there is a way to keep the mirror perfectly centre in the cell, however it will require some machining work. I've found the following thread over in CN where you can see detailed pictures of a Takahashi Epsilon 180ED mirror cell. And from the blog I've linked earlier I do think it might be possible to drill one or two threaded holes on the side of each of the three vertical support, then use some grub screws. You can use the grub screws to precisely position the mirror dead centre in the cell and of course lock it in.

From what I read, the collimation is a bit fiddly at this f/rate, not quite an issue, I guess you just need to be patient and accurate. What I'd like to know is how often do you really have to redo it? If I get such scope, it will be for my remote observatory which is very remote (I'm talking at least 8 hours drive via several countries...) I would hate having to re-collimate "at every use" really...

I want to believe this scope is worth the price tag, lately our clear nights are getting rarer and rarer. And I hate looking at the forecast now... it's just cloud cloud cloud. Hence I'm ready to step into the complicated world of super fast scopes, oh look 1 hour clear night. booom... target acquired !!! 😂

Are you still thinking the same now, or is it ok?

I used Kstars/Ekos for the acquisition (equipment used is in my signature) and Pixinsight to stack and stretch it. 44x 180s lights 15x 180s dark 50x bias using clear glass

I do not use a Raspberry pi, I use an Odroid C1 board in V2. In V3 I will have the Odroid C4.

This one has managed to separate it https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/663055-new-sharpstar-15028hnt-initial-impression-with-pics/page-4#entry9578548

You can do a similar box with a 200PDS scope if you want, I think I have in this thread a picture showing just a wood frame to visualise the size. It's one thing on paper but another when you actually see it... V1: it was big, too big. All made of wood with too many design flaws and my knowledge of wood working was quite limited. V2: this is a much more compact version, super light wood frame with strict minimum amount of screws used (youTube videos have helped me a lot in getting ideas for the wood working part), the panels are Dibond (aluminium composite sheet). I did upgrade the two linear actuators for a single one, a much beefier one and ultra quiet. This allows me to open the "roof" at any time of the night without waking up the in-laws (bedroom is right behind). pros: everything has worked fine (the box that is), great passive ventilation system with 0 dew or humidity in V2 ever (I do not count the huge snow fall once that managed to make its way through the top solar fan...) cons: you do need to trust your mount when it parks, any issues with that and you could say goodbye to your equipment, good thing is that this issue has recently been sorted out in Indilib (I was the main driver for this to be fixed). The scope alignment within the box, I did align the mount towards Polaris (the scope is as an angle within the box). So now V3... ultra top secret design... only kidding, depending on which scope I'm going to get it will decide the overall size of the box, it will still be as compact as this one or potentially way smaller. The lead will have a very different design which allows a full 100% opening, I've found a very inspiring video on youTube for it and it was a Eureka moment. The new mount is a CEM25P, the scope will be aligned to the sides of the new box, the polar alignment will be a combination between orienting the box and the mount altitude. The frame itself will be extruded aluminium (2020 I think it's called) and still use Dibond panels as they are super strong and super light.

Final picture, stacked and auto stretched in Siril. 44x180s

DIY isn't something I'm scared off But I'm more thinking about the price of the scope itself vs the work that you have to put into it...

Dave, have you had much luck with this telescope yet please? Would you recommend it or would you say: stay away from it... I'm currently contemplating upgrading my current observatory telescope (Megrez 72 f6.0) for something seriously faster and this scope is interesting. I have read all the threads here and on CN about it, from what I can see the quality control isn't on par with a Tak (I have no experience with a Tak, so it's based on what I read).

I'm also interested in this scope, I've found the following Japanese blog (Google chrome translate works fine) where the user fixed that issue. http://asterism5592.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-598.html http://asterism5592.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-569.html?q=15028HNT

Weird thing happened, there was a network issue and the guiding went all crazy ... lol Well that's the end of tonight session, 42 good frames capture

When you compare my V1 to V2 you can see the huge improvement in design, V3 will be an even bigger step... I certainly do enjoy building stuff like this, it really challenges the mind

NGC 281 right now... (39 more frames to go) 180s single frame:

Yes I am using an ancient CCD Atik 314L+ and it can do short exposures. Minimum exposure time: 1/1000 second Maximum exposure time: 10,000 seconds source: http://www.dangl.at/ausruest/atik_314/atik_314_e.htm I do have in the planning (on paper...) an ultra sub compact tiny observatory in the making. If I can nail the opening of the lead as I want, it is going to be so sweet !!! But, it's only at the very early stages of the design.

I am very happy with that QHY5L-II-M camera via the OAG, at the present time (as in right now) I'm imaging NGC_281 180s exposure (no need to do 10+min...)

And this is my guiding, I think it's quite good.

I've taken a 10min frame of NGC281 on Sunday, and thought how far can I push this thing... I wanted to see how long of an exposure even with guiding would the star trails appear but none even in the 32 min exposure. I'm gob smacked with this setup. I'll be able to enjoy it more often than ever now. The observatory has been dormant for too long now.