Jump to content

NLCbanner2024.jpg.2478be509670e60c2d6efd04834b8b47.jpg

fwm891

Members
  • Posts

    4,144
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by fwm891

  1. And another thread:

    Not so good this one but the key is aligning the polar axis - there are a number of phone apps that tell you where polaris should be when you look through the polar scope.

    Note though that the phone app may have two modes: visual and telescope - choose telescope.

    You will also need to check the polar scope alignment within the mount (any mount will need this doing).

    Any questions fire away.

    Good luck with choosing a mount

    • Like 1
  2. Some really superb images being posted on this forum in all sections.

    There a quite a few I would like to emulate and see what sort of result I can get with my kit and available time. However, some of the images are posted without any form of identification or they've been given a common, non catalogue ID making it impossible to find - especially for newer imagers. 

    I hope I label mine whether they are a more common target or not - would be great if everyone added a simple catalogue reference like an: NGC####, IC##, Sh2-###, M### … That would make it easy to locate on a planetarium or star map.

    Thanks

    Francis

    • Like 3
  3. Depends on what you intend putting on the mount. Astro Pack? don't know that - is that a USA version?

    I have the SA Pro Pack which allows me to put any thing from a wide angle camera lens/body combinations up to (in my case) the William Optics ZS73 with a camera body successfully.

    This thread may help scroll down to almost the last image: 

     

  4. 9 hours ago, souls33k3r said:

    Yeah I'm sure it does tell you that on the handset but let me see if I can find it from the pc software because I need to get in the loft, take out the box and take off the seal from the handset :D

    Ouch! How long ago was this? I've heard that their QC has improved but I'm only telling you what I've heard 

    The iEQ 45 Pro was firmware updatable as are the CEM's. Be aware I queried the firmware shown on the handset with the firmware shown on the iOptron website - iOptron will install the latest firmware to the mount at the factory but they just don't update the website. The website shows an older firmware version. Firmware numbers are in a date format so you can see which is the later version.

    If you use the handset you will find various ways to set your PA - it's a great mount.

  5. An Update:

    I'm enjoying OSC imaging with this camera. Few problems with dark frames to start with but found that (in PI) when doing an 'Image Calibration' not to check the boxes under the Master Dark for calibration and optimisation. It's really checking the optimisation box that causes the amp glow problem. I've also had to change my PI process routine a little.

    At present I'm using SG Pro for capture and setting gain at 122 with off-set to 30. Exposures with this camera seem much shorter than I would use with the SX Trius 825 CCD. Obviously exposure length will depend on the subject but I'm talking in relative terms about exposures being shorter. For obects like M20, NGC6960 etc the 3, 5 and 10 mins are quite normal. With M27 I can add 2 min subs as it is quite a bright subject.

    My skies aren't too polluted (Bortle 4) and I shoot with a 1¼" Baader UV/IR cut filter as close to the sensor as I can (The camera came with a 1¼" - 42mm adapter - I can fit the filter into the sensor side of the adapter that puts it almost onto the sensor window), I get a small (very small) vignette from the 1¼" filter which either ABE or DBE remove in the absence of a flat field master.

    The camera is used predominately with my Altair 115 EDT-APO and Plano star 1x FF but also with a William Optics ZS 73 APO + Flat73A FF

    Images:

    M20 a reprocess of a 294MC Pro + 115 EDT APO sub set (300s subs x 6) minor crop to remove alignment error.

    NGC 7331 & Co 4x 180s subs - full framing

    Once darker skies return I'll give a further update plus I've just ordered a new scope so see how well the two go together...

    Francis

    M20_294MC_Final-2.jpg

    NGC7331&Co_294MC_115EDT_Rot.jpg

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  6. Your obviously having problems. You've got your mount now pointing to polaris with Polemaster, have you tried to drift align the mount with PHD and ignoring polemaster? With my old iEQ 45 Pro Polemaster gave mediocre results.

    Are your stars the same shape across the frame, longer one side/corner than the other.  Personally I think your PA is off line which may be due to the problems in locating the Polemaster adapter and securing Polestar itself in the adapter. Your PHD graph is not that bad, certainly those errors would be guided out.

    I used PHD's drift align routine to set mine up because I can't see the pole star. That took a few iterations but it has been well worth it. I found the adjusters for azimuther awkward and used an allen (hex) key to allow small adjustments when I got near. If you try PHD's drift align don't be put off by the erratic movement of the dec line when you start the 'drift' measurement it needs 30 secs or so to settle and show its basic direction. Longer is better once your homing in of final adjustments. My CEM60 Standard is a pleasure now it's PA is properly aligned.

    Good luck, it's frustrating when stuff doesn't live up to expectations out of the box. 

    Francis

    • Like 1
  7. 22 minutes ago, alan potts said:

    Good to see you have the new mount up and running, who knows maybe the clouds will clear off now, good start on the bubble, not an easy target I wouldn't think, did you see Olly's work on this.

    Alan

    Thanks Alan. I love Olly's work - I try to avoid it as it puts me off mine... 🤫

    • Haha 1
  8. Well I've been trying many different processing options and found (I think) my problem lies in the Image Calibration stage when Master dark Calibrate and Optimise are checked I get amp glow, with these un checked amp glow disappears. Also tried with one or the other checked and turns out that it's the Optimisation that's causes the amp glow to show.

    The images below are tight crops from the area of worse amp glow in my images (full frame also included).

    Now this is strange because previously I have been following Warren Keller's routine and in that he says to check calibrate and optimise but to set the optimise level at zero? Does this mean that something is happening even when setting optimise to zero?

    NoCalNoOpt.jpg

    WithCalNoOpt.jpg

    WithCalwithOpt.jpg

    Opt-Cal.jpg

    NoCalNoOpt_FullImage.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. On 25/08/2019 at 15:50, JamesF said:

    I was looking at buying these to get the right backfocus for my ED80 reducer, but the reviews on FLO's site aren't exactly encouraging.  Has anyone bought them recently?  Happy with them?  Not?

    James

    Hi James - Yes bought a set this week but they don't go over the 42mm T threads - hole too small 😧

  10. 15 hours ago, knobby said:

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgOf4wBnoGg8WHHHr_h4otQ

    Dylan O'Donnel uses the RASA and I think a ZWO1600, very similar ... might be worth a look.

    Thanks Both,

    I think I've watched all Dylan's videos on the RASA and Trevor's backyard stuff plus quite a few other videos. I've read numerous threads on CN too.  I'm sure I will end up buying one (hopefully before the £ is worth < $). There are other things like filter drawers, dew shields etc to research...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.