Albir phil

3 minutes ago, Kon said:

Thanks. I do not plan on getting up early again either; it is not worth it at 20 degrees elevation. I was just getting a bit jealous of seeing pics from others online 😜

Great images I like the bands on the first image 👍👍

37 minutes ago, carastro said:

I have been using Teamviewer for a long time  so I can see and control what is going on in the Observatory.  

This was always free for personal use. 

However I hadn't used it for quite a while and now it seems you have to login.  OK I did that, and after probably a few minutes it logged me out saying they had timed me out and would not let me in until a certain time.  But that time was "now".  It would not let me in unless I was a paying customer.   I thought it was because I was using a new laptop and a new install, so I tried it on an older laptop with an old install on it, but the same thing happened.  

It has now rendered Teamviewer quite useless to me.  

So is it now you just get a few intermittent free minutes unless you are a paying customer?

Does any-one know? 

Also looks like they only give Support to licensed customers so I can't even ask. 

Been on to TeamViewer site ,it's still Free but they say if they suspect you are using it for commercial use they will block you.(Note Suspect)

On 10/06/2024 at 20:57, Recretos said:

Whirpool Galaxy M51, with 22h of integration (8020*10s), stacked and processed in Pixinsight. I did not push the sharpening and denoising all the way in these images, as it does start to degrade fast, and denoise tends to remove detail and deform the galaxy. However, I must say I never dreamed of capturing such images with a small device like the Seestar. I live in Bortle 3 at 1050m (3500ft) above sea level, so the conditions likely help the outcome. One image has a bit more saturation, as I just tried two different approaches and couldn't decide which is better.

I got my Seestar S50 in mid-February, and I also bought Pixinsight at that time. So, being only 4 months into this hobby, I welcome constructive feedback and criticism from the more (or less) experienced folk, as that is probably the best way to grow your skills. Thanks for watching.

 

Just shows what this little scope can do given good location and processing 

21 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:

Check the instructions, but I think the EAF uses the course focus side for the connection.  The fine focuser remains in place.

 Ok thanks for info 🤗

8 minutes ago, Vroobel said:

The fine focus side cannot be used. 

Thanks👍

18 minutes ago, Budgie1 said:

Check the instructions, but I think the EAF uses the course focus side for the connection.  The fine focuser remains in place.

Yeah thanks I figured it out after I posted question. Thanks for you reply👍

Hi as anyone out there had problem fitting eaf to the focuser on the 150 quattro,none of the supplied flex fittings fit on the fine focus side on the focuser. Any advise would be appreciated 🤔🤞

That's a great images first or not , it would look great enlarged on a wall, very nice mineral colour not over done.Great job.👏👏

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

What would you say to someone who asserted that only piers painted red could provide perfect polar alignment?

Olly

Very little, leave them to it😵‍💫

Great image beautiful colour love it👍

5 hours ago, wesdon1 said:

@Albir phil Hi and thanks for your advice. I purchased it a couple of hours ago, it only cost me £350 + postage! They're £899 new! 

Yes it's for imaging, and it will be mounted onto a SkyWatcher HEQ5 Pro so I think the guiding will be ok as long as I polar align perfectly. I have an iPolar electronic polar alignment device which gets me the most perfect PA possible. 

Also I'm looking forward to the Planets making an appearance again in the coming months so I'm going to be imaging those with it too.

Cheers! Wes.

👍 Same mount as me, I use polemaster hope you get some great images I'm sure you will

15 hours ago, GTom said:

Looking for recommendations on a short-tube Newtonian for photography. F/4 sets quite a few challenges I know. Still I would like to venture in this territory because this speed would be more forgiving to the mount & guiding and also more travel friendly being basically airline compatible. For camera I'd start with a modified Nikon D5100 with this scope.

So far the candidates:

Stellalyra probably with the GPU corrector

RVO Horizon

QUATTRO 150P with its own corrector, limited to approx 4/3rds sensor size (less than APSc) but super-fast f3.45! Expensive at first.

TS Photon CC needed

Altair,  again, CC needed

 

 

Hi I recently bought 150 quattro,I live in Spain and got mine from Germany the focuser was the better one so did not change that,I did replace the spider, and fitted primary mirror mask from backyard universe.Had no problem with fitting them.i.also made a foam bung that fits behind the main mirror to stop light leaks.All in all no problem and it's a great fast astrograph 👍

On 12/06/2024 at 19:40, carastro said:

I find it more of a problem with drivers when l have to move operating systems. 
 

l have just bought a W11.  I can’t get my Guide camera to work on it.
l have an old Guide camera.  Luckily l still have an old W7 l can use for that.  
 

Photoshop and Stellarium works fine.  
 

Carole

Why is it that Microsoft cannot make any upgrades work on our hardware as it did with the previous system, there always seems to be problems at some point,it seems to occur with software upgrades as well sometimes, though this is not due to Microsoft 🤔

Long fl will zoom in more on DSO, however long fl is more demanding regarding guiding, and the mount if you are thinking of imaging. Also you will have a smaller fov with larger galaxy. Taking all this into account and if it's a bargain 🤗

Great image nice colours and core not blown 👍👏

4 hours ago, Hoody said:

I'm not sure where you mean to make the slots. From what I can see it's the recessed dark metal ring holding the optics in from the back of the eyepiece, but I could be wrong. Was thinking possibly a rubber bung cut to the right size might get it out. 

I see what you mean, not easy to get at.your idea is on the right track but it will have to be a very tight fit . Now as I was in engineering I would ( think this may alarm you) drill two small holes with a Dremel pur a rivet in each ,a bar between them to unscrew the ring, but that is only what I would try if I was determined to clean the optics🤞🤔

1 hour ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

So you want to get more marketing shoved down your throat ?? 

Personally I wouldn't worry about it & forget the whole upgrade procedure, especially as I'm not going to be forced into upgrading the hardware to accommodate the win11 update, so I'll just stick to Win10/Server2019 which do all I require, and for a lot of newer things I'm using a lot more Linux based systems....

Yeah I use w10 ,not upgrading, if I works I say leave it alone.

11 hours ago, Hoody said:

The intention is to do this non-destructively so they can be reassembled and used as normal. 

The only change you will make is the slots then you can clean the lens and reassemble them.When I said I took mine apart for the parts there was no damage done and I could have reassembled them if I needed to .

22 minutes ago, Hoody said:

Been wanting to try out these old bins but they're cloudy even when the skies are clear. 

Trying to dismantle the eyepieces to remove the haze as best I can, but I'm stumped as to how they come apart. 

They don't unscrew from the front and the metal ring inside the barrel doesn't have anything to get a lens tool on to unscrew. 

Has anyone got any ideas how to get the lenses out? 

Thanks in advance! 

Chris.

Some time ago I dismantled a pair of 35mm binos just for the parts, like yours there we're no slots, I first covered the lens with masking tape then  cut slots with a small hacksaw.i then used a strip of thin steel to unscrew the rings.

57 minutes ago, Asc said:

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone can share some advice on my situation.

Saturday night as I was setting up, the mount gave way breaking inside where the altitude adjustment screws make contact.

I have attached photos to show the location of the break. It seems that this had already been an issue for the previous owner/s as there are clear signs of either a strong glue or potential welding? 

I've had the mount for 4 years and it has worked a charm considering its age and likely many previous owners.

Do you think it is possible for it to be fixed? If so, how? Or should I start saving for a new mount?

Any wisdom is appreciated.

Clear skies!

Asca

 

Yes it can be welded,I used to work in engineering and had telescope tube welded up for me. As the bracket is hollow on the inside you will be able to get a good amount in there. I sure you will find some engineering shop near you who will do the work for you. Good luck hope it turns out well for you👍🤞

3 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

 

cheers both, its just i see quite of lot of m13 images taken and i struggle to see the appeal unless it was some sort of standardised test type thing.

I consider it more of a test in processing, ie trying to resolve stars and colour without burning the core out as with all globular clusters.

2 hours ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

Is m13 regarded as something of a gear test target in the community?

I read something about the more stars can be resolved the better the set up?

Good set up yes , but in the end it's down to post processing 

19 minutes ago, Atomic_ said:

I'm thinking the math/formular I found was wrong then, from what you said I'm guessing it was meant to use Diameter instead of focal length for the calculations, which gives more reasonable answers being; 29x, 290x, and 406x for the minimum, optimum and maximum magnifications.

I'll have to have a look at some 5 or 7mm eyepieces for planetary details.

thanks

Best thing to do is not to get too involved with things, just try what you have see what you see, and when you're more used to the scope look into things more.

Ok if you take the mm of the eyepiece and devid it into your scope f/l that will give you it's magnification.So the smaller the eyepiece mm the higher it magnifying power.for planets and moon high power is needed however air condition will dictate how high you can go.

1 hour ago, dweller25 said:

Sadly not, the one remaining is glued on and will not come off without damage 😕

Try alcohol it might loosen it without damaging