Gina

Nope - trying 140°C bed temperature. The bed surface must be cooler than the thermistor in the heater pad with glass and LokBuild on top. Maybe hotter filament might help - I'll try that next - currently 260°C. Could go to 270°C or maybe 280°C.

Stayed on a bit longer but still came off. Trying 120°C bed temperature.

No joy there. Took the nozzle to almost touching the bed (0.1mm) so I'm increasing the bed temperature from 80°C to 100°C and trying again.

Now printing in Nylon - looking alright so far but only on layer 3 so far. The printing is set fairly slow for better results and 0.25mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle. The results with PETG were good so I'm hopeful that the Nylon version will also be... Oops, spoke too soon - print has detached from bed may need higher temperature of closer nozzle. I'll try the latter first as it's easy.

Escape Wheel has printed well and measures up perfectly (as near as I can tell).

One thing I want this Mini printer for is the Escape Wheel for a pendulum clock (long case). Previous attempts at printing this have resulted in insufficiently accurate results and the print did not work well enough. I'm hoping I can produce an accurate enough print with this printer - it does seem better than any other I have had. I am starting with PETG to assess the accuracy and if adequate I plan to use Nylon. So Nylon will be the next filament type I shall try.

PETG is working well enough - particularly for smaller but higher prints.

Tried to take the LokBuild off the glass - it ain't cummin'!! So I'll put up with it for now and order another borosilicate glass plate. May try PEI.

Better - I was able to prise it off the bed without too much trouble. No mirror finish with this stuff, unlike glass. This is the X drive gear for the Giant printer - 120mm diameter. Photos top and bottom.

One last try with PETG and LokBuild on bed Bed temperature down to 50°C and nozzle at 0.9mm above bed. Filament temperature at 255°C and layer height at 0.25mm apart from first. Print looks alright ATM but it hasn't finished yet

I think I'm going back to glass - trying to get the print off LokBuild is near impossible I guess for prints with a large overhang and something to grab to break it off the bed it might be alright. Oh well, if you don't try these things you never know!

Duet WiFi control board all set up and ready to connect up.

Well, LokBuild is brilliant for holding the print onto the bed but much less so at letting go when you want to get it off!! Now I have the opposite problem from previously - DOH.

Duet WiFi control board set up ready for wiring up.

Trying PETG again now. Seems stuck to bed but not laying properly on layer - guess it needs higher hotend temperature.

My bed heaters are silicone rubber with fibreglass reinforcement enclosing Nichrome wire (I presume) also including a thermistor in the middle. They have a self adhesive layer to attach to the plate of the bed. They are very flexible and sit right up against the plate. In the smaller two of my 3D printers the plate is 3mm borosilicate glass and in the Giant it's aluminium 500x500x5mm. The heater pad is 400mm square and 1200W mains powered. That'll keep the room warm For a bigger heated print bed you could use multiple silicone heater pads but the price escalates. I too am surprised he gets rigidity though the fishing line cord doesn't stretch. I use that cord in all my printers now and find it very good. But the slightest breeze would deflect the cord I would have thought. Also, wires and filament to the extruder are liable to deflect the extruder sideways.

Z drive motor pinion for Giant printer printed successfully in TPU filament. So now have ABS and TPU printing alright. Almost two extremes - stiff and hard to soft and springy

Took the third Duet board out of it's packaging and connected to USB. Set up WiFi, connected from Firefox and uploaded config.zip previously set up for my Giant printer and downloaded, followed by the firmware update. All working fine powered from USB. Having remembered from last time, the process proceeded smoothly and easily So that's ready for when I connect it to my Giant printer.

Printed a 60t 120mm diameter Z drive gear in ABS and now printing an 8t motor pinion in TPU giving a gear ratio of 7.5:1 so Z µsteps/mm = 101.86x7.5 = 763.95.

Hmm... Rebooted by disconnecting from USB and reconnecting. Then sent "M551 Preprap" again. After that the web page connected without asking for a password Very strange but problem solved

Tried sending "M551 Preprap" to the Duet from Repetier Host but "reprep" still doesn't work

It isn't set. I tried "reprap" as that seemed to be the default but it didn't work. Guess I could try setting it from USB.

Thought I'd try the LokBuild I bought for this size printer. By Jove - ABS sticks to it like glue and absolutely no curl/lifting. Only problem - it takes a lot of getting off - had to resort to a knife between print and LokBuild. Now going to try TPU filament.

Re. Duet setup. I'm trying to get my second Duet WiFi board working. I have used the online configuration tool to configure the Duet for my Titan printer and downloaded it. I went through the WiFi setup from Repetier Host and it connected to my new AP just fine. Then I uploaded the new config.zip and rebooted the Duet from Firefox but now it's asking for a password in order to connect! I have not had this before and have no idea what password - anyone here have any suggestions? I've looked in the wiki but can't find anything. I have my Mini printer Duet connected (printing parts for my Giant printer) at the same time but shouldn't make any difference - they have different IP addresses.

4A ribbon cable has arrived