toxic

first light with the new SW Quattro from FLO courtesy from the wife for i havent posted in a while as i have not been to well thanks to james cook im doing much better anyway here's the image.

1 hour each of LRGB at 300 seconds per sub

3 hours of HA at 600 seconds per sub

atik 383l mono efw2 with baader fiters SW Quattro 10s with aplanatic cc all on the SW AZEQ6-GT

thanks for looking and all CC welcome

this is a beaut Richard plenty of dust in there 

you will get pin sharp stars at the edge if you drop the f-ratio down i would get the same effect with the canon 50mm f1.8 but when i dropped it to f7.1 that sorted it out, so you just need to experiment to find the sweet spot on your lens 

now thats just stunning Sara the detail and the colour 

well done to all and a great set of images 

thats a beauty Rob

18 hours ago, Adam J said:

The only thing that I am not understanding about that statement is that your image looks very blue for an RGB image, when I have seen this before OIII has always been green / teal not electric blue. Mine is of course a bi-color narrow band image and hence the OIII is assigned to blue. But then you do have star color to I was assuming it was OIII + Ha + RGB .

sorry Adam it is just 1 red at 300 second -  1 green at 300 second and 1 blue at 300 second and then combined in photoshop exposure there is no HA or OIII in it, and the other is just a single 900 sec exposure from the eos 1100D (the top image is the eos)

18 hours ago, Adam J said:

Here is my effort with a 1000D, it did not seem fair to compare to a unmodified DSLR.

In terms of comparison you got more detail but less depth, though i have been way more aggressive in processing. I would expect more detail though given the longer focal length (mine is cropped allot) and the mono should improve resolution also.

hi Adam nice picture

just thought i would let you know that the 1100d is a single sub and the atik is 3 single subs combined r-g-b no processing was done to either.

i would not go for a dslr and go  for the dedicated ccd/cmos as i went down that road my self but i didn't have the dslr modded as i use it for daytime photography.

i now have the atik 383l+ mono and it is so much easier to use in AP than a dslr even if you onl get a HA filter to start with.

you mention the celestron nightscape 8300 ,that is the same chip as the atik 383l but the nightscape only go's down to -20 ambient but the atik go's to -40 ambient i dont know anything about the nightscape aprt from the specs online but for £24 more i would go for the atik i have had mine for over 2 years and its a superb camera.

you cant really compare a dslr to an astro ccd/cmos camera but here is a comparison any way.

the first is a single 900 second exposure from the eos 1100D not modified unprocessed taken in 2014

the second is 3 x 300 second exposures 1 red - 1 green - 1 blue (dss to align and photoshop to combine) apart from that unprocessed taken 2015

some blooming great images up there well done to you all.

i don't know where the rest of you get your skies from but i need some, its been a terrible year. i struggled to get 5 let alone complete them lol but here they are.

some awesome pictures so far peeps now for my go lol

Messier 31 the Andromeda galaxy and friends

Messier 1 the Crab nebula  

Messier's 42 & 43 the Orion nebula  

NGC 281 the Pac-Man nebula

NGC 2174 the Monkey head nebula

hope you like

very nice image Simmo

lovely image and what a banner this would be nice one Rob

very nice rob i love the colours and the vibrance great picture mate 

Sun was out this morning  so had a go with some solar imaging today Just in white light but also had a quick go with some standard NB filters. I wasn't expecting them to have any effect but there may be some subtle differences - or could just be quality variation? All taken with a fs modded Canon 1100d fitted with a cls-ccd. I preprocessed in Pipp (1500 x 1500) and stacked the best ones in Registax 6.

Hmm... I obviously need some flats too but not sure how to do them for solar? I'd have posted in the Solar forum but was too embarrassed by the dust bunnies...

Louise

hi Louise just take a couple of pics with a white t shirt over the lens or a white  tissue just so there is no detail then. like a flat . but at 1/260th iso (so it looks the same brightness ) then open photo shop then open the stacked frame and the single frame you just made, make sure they are both same size and color depth and file type (tiff - grey/rgb - 8 bit/16 bit) then select the sun pic and at the top goto image apply image subtract opacity 100 - scale 1 - offset 50. that should get rid of you dust bunnies. 

if the print cost the same as an unreasonable car then what is the wall going to cost to hang it on. why not just use a projector and shine it on the clouds there is no shortage of them.

great comet there Martin well done indeed 

OMG!   £$%^$%$%$£% words fail me --------- that is Booming Fantastic  

i think it must be out of focus for you to see the secondary like that if it is in the center

there nice Epicycle 

blooming ek   i wont complain about my 2 or 3 pain mosaics again lol well good that is

No prob mate

Youre using the 383 with the 80ED reduced yes? Then i might suggest 900s subs as a benchmark, but certainly not below 600s as f6.38 does the 383 no favours.

yip it is the 0.85 reducer F/F for the 80ED.

hoping to go 1800 sec or more now that i can get over 1800 sec with the 200 pds without human error lol just want to try and get more without doing a mosaic all the time, it will help cut down on sub capture time if i can get it into 1 or 2 frames insted of 4 or 6 frames plus all the other problems with mosaics 

thanks .

thanks for the info rob but i went the other way and got the 80ED with and FF so now i can get some Wider shots (when the cloud clears) 

Though its great for NB, its not really apochromatic - so you need to refocus between filters (something you dont need to do with the Baader). If I were to do some RGB work, id probably switch to the other corrector.

the only filter i needed to refocus with is the blue all others seem to be fine but then that was with the 200p ds and the skywatcher cc not sure if that makes a difference.

thanks again

i like that,

great gif there Martin

hi Rob 

do you have a focal reducer on your 130 pds and if so where did you get it, i find myself wanting to do a bit wider field shots than my 200 pds will allow.